It is a two-wall design, which preheats air in between the walls to ignite the smoke. Well-tended, this produces a bright, smokeless flame which produces little soot and leaves little to no scorching on the ground below.
It is built from commonly available (in the United States) parts: a quart paint can, a smaller tin can, and a shorter tin can. The only specialized tools are a safety-style can opener and an Irwin Unibit #1, though similar designs can be made with just a church-key and ordinary can opener and alternate tools are discussed in appropriate steps.
The whole thing can be built in about an hour. This model weighs 6.6 oz (187 grams) after several firings, and nests in, e.g., the Snow Peak 900 Ti or Al pot.
Ready? You'll need:
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A 19 ounce Progresso soup can. Other cans such as 20 ounce cans of fruit will work as well, but the
Progresso cans are a bit shorter, which we want.
A Large, short can. Mine had bamboo shoots in it; many cat foods and canned meats come in this sort of can. The diameter should be a little larger than the inner ring on top of the quart can. Don't get an aluminum one, it'll melt and buckle in the heat.

















































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The largest hole that the Irwin Unibit #1 can make is 7/8"
It would be interesting to pit a chimney starter modified with a potstand against this stove to see which would boil water faster.
1/4" = c. 6 mm NOTE: don't make holes this size, use:
3/8" = c. 1 cm for the inner bottom holes and the windscreen and:
1/2" = c. 13 mm for the inner top holes and the outer bottom holes.
Hope this helps!
http://www.jureystudio.com/pennystove/pennywood.html
In the inside can I made two rows of holes on the sides and did a fair amount of perforation on the bottom.
I am definitely getting wood gas burning. However, I am also getting flames deep in the can.
I think I have too many holes in the lower end of the inner can. Is a large airy area in the bottom of the can too much?
Then cut and bend the outer can bottom down so it would bend down and catch on the tabs you made in the inner can, also between 10 to 12 holes must be drilled in this piece.
Then bend tabs back up to secure the bottom you reused from the outer can.
Now you have a more efficient stove and easier to light and keep lit stove.
tjamrog.wordpress.com/2008/12/22/the-evolving-backpacking-wood-stove/
I made one according to his specifications and used 3 sheet metal screws to make sure the two cans do not come apart.
You could have it burn better by adding a grill-type floor/level inside your burning can, slightly higher then the airholes at the bottom. This will have the fire air-fed from below. Making a more efficient burn, while ash will find it's way through the grill. The sticks will lean on the grill-floor which optimizes airflow. Your fire will reach optimum temperature a bit faster.
I hope this helps.
Ideal might be several big openings on the bottom and a wire mesh bottom dropped into the bottom of the can to spread out the ventilation manifold.