Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 5Cut out the Pieces
Now it's time to cut out all the pieces. I like to use Olson PGT blades - 7RG or even 9RG could be used here, since the patterns are not very complex.
One trick you may use for cutting out the stacked pieces is to stick a short piece of dowel in two of the holes. This will prevent the pieces from shifting far better than the tape is able to.
Cut each piece carefully, to the line. In most cases you don't have to be super-precise, though you should be careful when cutting the joints that slot together. These include the reflector, the the joint between the "shoulders" and base, and between the "feet" and base. Take your time to cut these precisely, so that the pieces fit together later with a minimum of wobble.
To do the inside cuts, disconnect the scroll saw blade on one end and feed it through the pilot hole. Reconnect the blade, re-tension it, then cut out. Disconnect the blade again to remove the workpiece.
The pieces may now be sanded to remove any rough edges and faces. You can use a belt sander for the edges if you've got one. Sand to the line using the belt sander. One the edges are are sanded, remove the paper patterns. If the paper won't come off easily, heat it up a bit with a heat gun. The adhesive will release easily, but you'll need to sand the residue smooth. Lightly sand the faces of all the pieces, and sand the corners to remove any burrs.
One final step is to drill holes through the 1/2" spacer pieces. The cord will eventually pass through these holes, which are drilled perpendicular to the main 1/2" hole in the center. Using one of the scraps to support the spacer, and a clamp to hold it perpendicular, drill one or more holes large enough to accept the cord. This is a tricky operation, and a nice brad point drill bit really does wonders here.
One trick you may use for cutting out the stacked pieces is to stick a short piece of dowel in two of the holes. This will prevent the pieces from shifting far better than the tape is able to.
Cut each piece carefully, to the line. In most cases you don't have to be super-precise, though you should be careful when cutting the joints that slot together. These include the reflector, the the joint between the "shoulders" and base, and between the "feet" and base. Take your time to cut these precisely, so that the pieces fit together later with a minimum of wobble.
To do the inside cuts, disconnect the scroll saw blade on one end and feed it through the pilot hole. Reconnect the blade, re-tension it, then cut out. Disconnect the blade again to remove the workpiece.
The pieces may now be sanded to remove any rough edges and faces. You can use a belt sander for the edges if you've got one. Sand to the line using the belt sander. One the edges are are sanded, remove the paper patterns. If the paper won't come off easily, heat it up a bit with a heat gun. The adhesive will release easily, but you'll need to sand the residue smooth. Lightly sand the faces of all the pieces, and sand the corners to remove any burrs.
One final step is to drill holes through the 1/2" spacer pieces. The cord will eventually pass through these holes, which are drilled perpendicular to the main 1/2" hole in the center. Using one of the scraps to support the spacer, and a clamp to hold it perpendicular, drill one or more holes large enough to accept the cord. This is a tricky operation, and a nice brad point drill bit really does wonders here.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
