Step 7: Assembly

Ah, the moment of truth!  So, you've got a table littered with parts, ready to put together.  I suggest dry-fitting everything to start, before adding glue and making things permanent.  This way, you can determine the order in which the pieces go together, and find any mistakes (but you didn't make any, right?)

Assemble the base first, it's the easiest.  Slot a foot onto each space.  Some may fit better than others in certain spaces, so fit as many as you can without having to bust out the sandpaper.  In some cases though, you may have to sand or cut a little bit of wood to make something fit.  If you're planning to clamp the base to a table, install the feet "upside down," so the base sits flush on a surface.  Once the base is finished, set it aside.

Do the "reflector" next.  Slot in the three fingers.  Hopefully they'll stay in by friction alone, otherwise you'll have to carefully hold them in place until the light bulb socket is slid in the middle.  With the light fixture in place, the whole reflector should hold together.  Set it aside as well.

Now it's time for the arm.  Lay out the "joints" first, then slide in the 1/2" dowels.  The arms and spacers will slide onto these.  The assembly should go roughly like this:

- The curved 1/2" arm sections each have a 1/4" spacer on either side.  4 per arm section.  These go on the outside of the arm.

- The straight 1/4" arm sections that make up the "forearm" have a 1/2" spacer between them.  This pair goes on the inside of the "elbow" and "wrist" joints.

- The straight 1/4" arm sections that make up the "upper arm" go on the outside of the "elbow" and "shoulder" joints.

- A single 1/4" dowel spans the distance between the third position on the shoulder.  The springs for the upper arm attach to this dowel.

- The 2" long 1/4" dowel is inserted through two of the 0.5" long dowel pieces, which in turn connect to one of the 1/2" holes on the straight sections of the upper arm.  The other end of the "upper arm" springs attach here.  The exact distance depend on the length of the springs.

- One of the 1.5" long 1/4" dowels is inserted through the 1" long dowel with a hole drilled through.  The other is inserted through a 0.5" long dowel with a hole.  These are positioned on the "forearm" at such a distance that the springs are not stretched when the arm is "raised"  That is, the springs should support the weight of the arm.

The reflector assembly is attached at the "wrist" using a 2" long 1/4" diameter screw, held tight with a butterfly nut.  Two washers prevent the screw and nut from cracking the wood.  Place a 1/4" spacer on either side (2 total), and tighten the nut to hold the reflector at the desired angle.

Finally, slot the entire arm into the base.  If the spring tensions are set properly, the arm should stay where you move it.  At this point, be mindful that none of the joints pop out.  Remember, they're not glued yet!

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You know those children's puzzles you can buy that are made from sheet wood and you can punch out the pieces to make dinosaurs or whatever? You could make a kit like that but for this lamp and sell it!
Cool idea! But I have no time for that at the moment.<br><br>I give you permission to go ahead with your idea. :)
<p>Does anyone know how to convert this to a wall mounted lamp? Would reversing the lamp in the base allow the lower spring to be above the arm, so that it supports its weight rather than pulling the lamp further towards the floor?</p>
<p>oh, sorry</p>
<p>LOL, having trouble with comments?</p><p>The lamp uses just 1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; wood. The images in Step 1 show what pieces to make from what thicknesses.</p>
<p>Sorry, I think I missed how to tell which pieces are on 1/4 inch and which are on 1/2 inch birch?</p>
<p>Sorry, I think I missed how to tell which pieces are on 1/4 inch and which are on 1/2 inch birch?</p>
<p>Sorry, I think I missed how to tell which pieces are on 1/4 inch and which are on 1/2 inch birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>very excellent!!</p>
Just finished most of mine! Great little build! Thanks for the instructable!!!
<p>I just realized I forgot to reply. Very nice work - laser cut wood?</p>
<p>Very, very nice!</p><p>Woodpunk, I like it!,</p><p>Wood as most of us here know is easy to work with and cheap. I plan on soon going into knifemaking as a hobby, and as a teenager, I really don't have a shop. I am into architecture a little bit, and was wondering what style I should build my workshop in. I plan on making a few of these lamps and putting them around my shop, along with 'keeping the theme'. Thank you very much!</p>
<p>What style workshop? Whatever you like! My workshop is actually very boring. Just lots of workspace and cupboards.</p>
<p>amazing </p>
might want to source the light from another vendor... deal extreme takes forever.
Indeed they do. I have since replaced the bulb you see in the instructions with a nice one made by Philips, bought from Home Depot. I'm actually using the lamp daily at work.
www. ic station.com has done good selections as well and shipping is consistently approx two weeks
<p>That is good desk light .</p>
<p>So many shiny medals! such a detailed instructable Good Work!</p>
I've downloaded the DXF files and they look awesome (as does your total lamp design!) but question:...What are the notches for? Do they clamp to opposite ended to ratchet when attached? And the rectangles out of the circles? What are those vectors in there for?
I think you can ignore the notches. The rectangles indicate a hole that needs to be drilled through the side of the piece. PRO TIP: cut those pieces out as squares, do the side drill, then finish the circular cut around the circumference.
Thanks bro! I'mma throw it on my cnc machine and cut it for ease. I have a drill vise to drill those pieces after they are cut
...see attached picture I've attached
Here are some DXF files that can be imported into CAM program. The vectors are all closed so the toolpaths can be added easily. The they are organized by 1/2 inch parts and 1/4 inch parts. The units are inches.
JEFF - Hi - KChappers posted the .dxf and .dwg files for yourLED desk lamp a while back ( along while) I am having trouble downloading these files - any tricks to it ? I am new to the instructables site and was not sure if there was some steps I was missing - I teach high school woodshop and just got a laser cutter for the shop. this would be an awesome project to show its capabilities - any help would be much appreciatiated. Thanks !
I'll probably sound really dumb, but where do you buy Baltic Birch Plywood? I can't find it at Home Depot. Do I have to order the wood online? Or is it at arts and crafts stores?
Check the yellow pages for a lumber supplier, specifically one that sells wood to furniture makers. If the city you live in is large enough, it will likely have more than one big-box hardware store, too. Check them all!
Hi! I saw this mentioned on popular mechanics, (http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/8-diy-gifts-for-friends-and-family?click=pp#slide-1)<br><br> and I have access to my schools laser cuter. (Trotec speedy 100) I am extremely interested in this project and think it is an amazing idea. I have autocad and am planning on designing this in the program for cutting with 1/4&quot; wood and will just glue identical pieces together were 1/2&quot; is required. I had a few questions though. How easily does it tip over? Maybe I missed this, but are there dimensions anywhere? I reeeeely need these to be able to make the file. If I finish the file I will gladly upload it. I realize that someone else has already uploaded a file, but it is not to scale. Thanks for helping everyone!
Awesome! I didn't know my project got a mention on popular mechanics! <br><br>Yup, definitely cut from1/4&quot; wood and glue together as you've said. The bottom half of the arm can be extended up to 90 degrees with respect to the table, after that the lamp begins to tip. If you made the base heavier then you could extend it further.<br><br>There are templates in five different formats. My originals fit on 11x17 paper, to give you an idea of scale. So, the .pdf and .ai files are 1:1 scale.
I just go back from staples and got the sheets printed out. It was only $1.30 :-) I will start making the files over break and will upload them when I am done.
To confirm that the sizing is correct, is the length of one of the arms from end to end 14 5/8&quot; long?
Yup, that is correct! I measured it on the model I built.
I have everything traced out but I need a few measurements. What is the length or the counter weight and how long are the reflectors if measured directly from one end to the other. Also, are all of the whole that are drawen in the exact size, so if I cut it out with the lazer it will be just as big as if I drilled it?<br><br><br>
The counterweight is about 6.75&quot; long. The length is not overly critical, and you could even stretch it to add weight. The reflector &quot;fingers&quot; are a bit over 9&quot; long.<br><br>The only holes whose diameter matters are the joints; they are supposed to be 1/2&quot;. All the others are just for show, so if they look about right then they'll be fine. You might want to measure the diameter of the wood dowel used for the joints since 1/2&quot; wood dowel can vary a little bit, especially when choosing between softwood and hardwood dowel.
Where did you measure the fingers from? Also I notice that there is a smaller hole on the wrist, shoulder, one of the reflectors and on two of the spacers. What sizes are these holes?<br><br>
ok I figured out the fingers, but I still need the answer to what size the small holes are.. I also have a new question.. were the arms designed to be 15 inches because my program says they are, but the print is 14 5/8&quot; other than that everything it to scale except for the base
The holes for the wrist are smaller; though I forget what size I drilled them. They are large enough for a large machine screw. Max 1/4&quot;, though 3/16 is probably correct. <br><br>The critical dimention on the arms is the distance between the pivot holes. Mine are 12.5&quot;.
thanks! ok figured it all out... how do I send the file to you?<br>
How much did you pay for the led? I also got the file done .... how do I send it to you?
I think it was $13 or so. There are lots of different bulbs available at www.dx.com, though stock is improving at most hardware stores as well (though they are more expensive). I'll send you a PM regarding the file!
The procces of assembaling the lap has begun! and man does it look awsome. I will send you a picture of it compleated,but I still need to...<br>Put a finish on it.<br>Glue the parts.<br>Find lead for the counterweight.<br>Buy a mount for the bulb.<br>Recut one of the arms
I`m done! :-) I am waiting for the light to be shipped to my house and then I will post the pictures.
Its done! Here are the photos.

About This Instructable


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Bio: By day, Jeff is the Jack of All Robots at Clearpath Robotics. By night, a mad scientist / hacker / artist / industrial designer wannabe!
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