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Step 9: Gluing

It's important to know where to put glue, and where not to glue.  Otherwise, the arm may never move!  Assuming that everything went well at the assembly stage, partially disassemble the lamp by removing the base and the reflector.

Glue the reflector "fingers" by applying glue to all of the mating surfaces.  Wipe off any excess glue.  The shape of this piece makes it hard to clamp.  But fear not!  Grab some twist-ties (or solid core wire, in a pinch) and use one or two per finger to hold the finger tightly to the ring.  The light fixture will not be glued in until the wire has been run.

Next, glue in the "toes" to the base.  This is pretty straightforward, remove one toe at a time, apply glue to mating surfaces, and slide together again.  If the toes fit loosely, make sure they are all coplanar and the base sits level.  Prop or reorient the base as it dries if necessary.  Make sure to wipe up any excess glue before it dries.

When the "toes" are dry, glue the "counterweight" to the bottom of the base.  Note that this isn't necessary if the base will be clamped to the table.

And now, for the arm itself.  The general rule to follow is to only glue the 1/2" dowel to the outer-most arm piece.  Remember, these joints must swivel!  Gluing the outermost pieces only ensures that the arm won't fall apart.  Set the arm on its side and remove arm sections until the tops of the dowels are exposed.  Apply glue to the inside edges of the arm or joint pieces, following the rule above, the slide them on.  Doing it this way will ensure that any glue squeeze-out is pushed out where it can be wiped up, rather than into the joint.

Flip the arm over and do the same thing.  Check each joint to make sure the pieces are pressed together.

Now glue the arm onto the base.  Again, apply glue to the mating surfaces, and slide together.

The dowels are last. Take the dowels from the upper arms, and glue the 1/4" pieces in the exact centers of the 1/2" pieces. You'll then have two dowels, one with a 1/2" long section glued to the middle, and one with a 1" section glued to the middle.  The first of these is glued in place to the 1/2" thick arm, closest to the elbow.  The second piece is centered and glued to the parallel straight arms, closest to the "wrist."  Make sure the notches cut into these dowels face away from each other, so they are able to hold the springs. 

Last are the dowels that hold the springs for the "upper arm," between the shoulder and elbow.  On one half, glue in place a 1/2" long drilled out dowel.  The exact position of the piece glued to the parallel arms will depend on the length of the springs.  Now, apply glue to the dowels themselves, slide them halfway through the holes, and slip on the springs.  Push the dowel in the rest of the way to lock the springs in place.  This part is rather fiddly, and a pair of needle nose pliers might be helpful.

Once all of the glued joints are dry, sand them to remove any glue residue that might remain.  If any of the dowels stick out a bit, you may sand them down or cut them flush with a fine saw, or leave them alone.  But, if protruding dowels prevent the arm from moving, you'll need to trim them flush.

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<p>is there a way to convert the files for 3D printing</p>
<p>I have converted the basic shell of my designs that I was able to create thanks to jeff-o's instructable. Please feel free to let me know if you want them or the possible ways to convert...</p>
<p>yes please if you have STL's for this, would really appreciate it. Have been wanting to print this lamp design for a while now. thank you so much</p>
<p>Here you go. The Sketchup file is the fully assembled unit. I edited the design to account for the 6mm MDF, which in reality is 6.2mm... Grrrr! Please let me know if you have any issues and I would love to see the result as a printed project, hope your build volume is big enough!</p>
<p>Thank you, i have a few more projects i need to finish first, then will get started on this. Thank you once again. </p>
<p>Keen to find out if you have had a try at printing the design yet?!</p>
<p>Funnily enough i am about to give it a go next week. Been bogged down with work and a few other bits and only just managed to start getting back on track with the 3D printing. I'll let you know how it goes. </p>
<p>Hows the printing coming along?</p>
<p>Only a pleasure, glad you like!</p>
<p>jeff-o - Hope you like!</p>
<p>It's great! Sadly I don't have a 3D printer large enough for those pieces. But it makes me wonder - could I print a mini lamp? It would be so cute!</p>
<p>That would be O for Awesome! Do it!</p>
<p>Possibly, but it was designed for CNC routing.</p>
Do you know how that is done ? <br>Sorry to be a pain, i don't know how even if possible. Given your wonderful work on the lamp i thought you may have known
<p>Here is my version. It's pretty much the original plan. I decided to embed steel pinballs throughout the base as counterweights. There are 10 of them, and it seems to steady it perfectly. The bulb is an LED and was $5 at Lowes.</p>
<p>Great idea! Love it!!</p>
<p>Anyone keen for both the DXF cutting &amp; STL model files?</p><p>Thanks again jeff-o for the inspiration, you changed my world!</p>
<p>Beautiful work!</p>
<p>Worked with this to make it run on my X-Carve, lots of fun!</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/157042919" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Great video!</p>
Here are some DXF files that can be imported into CAM program. The vectors are all closed so the toolpaths can be added easily. The they are organized by 1/2 inch parts and 1/4 inch parts. The units are inches.
<p>These files from MRMFWILSON are absolutely great! Perfect for my CNC needs. </p><p>Thank You Very Much !!!!!</p>
<p>Your welcome. I have made quite a few changes to the lamp. Attached is a picture of one of the iteration. You can look at my facebook page to see the final product. centerlinedesigns</p><p>Mike</p>
<p>Very nice mods! Well done.</p>
<p>BEAUTIFUL!</p>
<p>BEAUTIFUL!</p>
<p>I love your project.really awesome and in good detail .cheers!</p>
You know those children's puzzles you can buy that are made from sheet wood and you can punch out the pieces to make dinosaurs or whatever? You could make a kit like that but for this lamp and sell it!
Cool idea! But I have no time for that at the moment.<br><br>I give you permission to go ahead with your idea. :)
<p>Does anyone know how to convert this to a wall mounted lamp? Would reversing the lamp in the base allow the lower spring to be above the arm, so that it supports its weight rather than pulling the lamp further towards the floor?</p>
<p>oh, sorry</p>
<p>LOL, having trouble with comments?</p><p>The lamp uses just 1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; wood. The images in Step 1 show what pieces to make from what thicknesses.</p>
<p>Sorry, I think I missed how to tell which pieces are on 1/4 inch and which are on 1/2 inch birch?</p>
<p>Sorry, I think I missed how to tell which pieces are on 1/4 inch and which are on 1/2 inch birch?</p>
<p>Sorry, I think I missed how to tell which pieces are on 1/4 inch and which are on 1/2 inch birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>This is by far my favorite instructable I've dound so far but sorry, I probably missed something, but how can you tell which pieces are 1/8 inch and which are 1/4 inch Baltic Birch?</p>
<p>very excellent!!</p>
Just finished most of mine! Great little build! Thanks for the instructable!!!
<p>I just realized I forgot to reply. Very nice work - laser cut wood?</p>
<p>Very, very nice!</p><p>Woodpunk, I like it!,</p><p>Wood as most of us here know is easy to work with and cheap. I plan on soon going into knifemaking as a hobby, and as a teenager, I really don't have a shop. I am into architecture a little bit, and was wondering what style I should build my workshop in. I plan on making a few of these lamps and putting them around my shop, along with 'keeping the theme'. Thank you very much!</p>
<p>What style workshop? Whatever you like! My workshop is actually very boring. Just lots of workspace and cupboards.</p>
Cool
might want to source the light from another vendor... deal extreme takes forever.
Indeed they do. I have since replaced the bulb you see in the instructions with a nice one made by Philips, bought from Home Depot. I'm actually using the lamp daily at work.
www. ic station.com has done good selections as well and shipping is consistently approx two weeks

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Bio: By day, Jeff is the Jack of All Robots at Clearpath Robotics. By night, a mad scientist / hacker / artist / industrial designer wannabe!
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