Step 9: Gluing

It's important to know where to put glue, and where not to glue.  Otherwise, the arm may never move!  Assuming that everything went well at the assembly stage, partially disassemble the lamp by removing the base and the reflector.

Glue the reflector "fingers" by applying glue to all of the mating surfaces.  Wipe off any excess glue.  The shape of this piece makes it hard to clamp.  But fear not!  Grab some twist-ties (or solid core wire, in a pinch) and use one or two per finger to hold the finger tightly to the ring.  The light fixture will not be glued in until the wire has been run.

Next, glue in the "toes" to the base.  This is pretty straightforward, remove one toe at a time, apply glue to mating surfaces, and slide together again.  If the toes fit loosely, make sure they are all coplanar and the base sits level.  Prop or reorient the base as it dries if necessary.  Make sure to wipe up any excess glue before it dries.

When the "toes" are dry, glue the "counterweight" to the bottom of the base.  Note that this isn't necessary if the base will be clamped to the table.

And now, for the arm itself.  The general rule to follow is to only glue the 1/2" dowel to the outer-most arm piece.  Remember, these joints must swivel!  Gluing the outermost pieces only ensures that the arm won't fall apart.  Set the arm on its side and remove arm sections until the tops of the dowels are exposed.  Apply glue to the inside edges of the arm or joint pieces, following the rule above, the slide them on.  Doing it this way will ensure that any glue squeeze-out is pushed out where it can be wiped up, rather than into the joint.

Flip the arm over and do the same thing.  Check each joint to make sure the pieces are pressed together.

Now glue the arm onto the base.  Again, apply glue to the mating surfaces, and slide together.

The dowels are last. Take the dowels from the upper arms, and glue the 1/4" pieces in the exact centers of the 1/2" pieces. You'll then have two dowels, one with a 1/2" long section glued to the middle, and one with a 1" section glued to the middle.  The first of these is glued in place to the 1/2" thick arm, closest to the elbow.  The second piece is centered and glued to the parallel straight arms, closest to the "wrist."  Make sure the notches cut into these dowels face away from each other, so they are able to hold the springs. 

Last are the dowels that hold the springs for the "upper arm," between the shoulder and elbow.  On one half, glue in place a 1/2" long drilled out dowel.  The exact position of the piece glued to the parallel arms will depend on the length of the springs.  Now, apply glue to the dowels themselves, slide them halfway through the holes, and slip on the springs.  Push the dowel in the rest of the way to lock the springs in place.  This part is rather fiddly, and a pair of needle nose pliers might be helpful.

Once all of the glued joints are dry, sand them to remove any glue residue that might remain.  If any of the dowels stick out a bit, you may sand them down or cut them flush with a fine saw, or leave them alone.  But, if protruding dowels prevent the arm from moving, you'll need to trim them flush.