Introduction: Work Table on Wheels

My garage is a nightmare. I have projects piling up, and no usable workspace to get anything done. I decided to build a work table that I could roll out of the garage, and do some clean up in the meantime. I needed a table that would have enough surface space, but also some underneath storage for lumber. The deck of the table is 3/4" plywood, and there is a border of red oak that goes around the perimeter. I left a 4" overhang on the table so that it would be easy to clamp things down.

Step 1: Supplies

  • 1 - 4'x8' - 3/4" plywood
  • 7 - 2"x4" x 8' Pine Board
  • 6 - 2"x6" x 8' Pine Board
  • 2 - 1"x2" x 8' Oak Trim
  • 2 - 1"x2" x 6' Oak Trim
  • 4 - 3" Caster Wheels (2 are rotating & locking) plus mounting screws
  • 2" Construction Screws
  • 3" Construction Screws
  • Polyurethane
  • 8 x 5" x 1/2" Carriage Bolts, washers, and nuts

Tools needed:

  • Circular saw
  • Power Drill
  • Belt Sander
  • Palm Sander
  • Paint Brush

Step 2: Build It Upside Down!

I started by building the framework for the table laying on the ground. Since I wanted to have a 4" overhang on each edge, the length of the frame is 88" x 40". I used a combination of pocket holes and driling screws from the outside in to strength. the box. These are the 2"x6" boards that make up the frame.

The legs are 2"x4" boards attached with 1/2" Carriage Bolts to the frame. Like a jig saw, I used shorter board on the inside part of the leg to create a joint for the cross beam, which ties the entire thing together. The goal was to make the table site 35" off the ground. Once the legs were installed and the cross beams mounted, I used a few extra boards to create a shelf that would facilitate lumber storage underneath. Once the casters were installed, I flipped the table over.

Step 3: Add the Table Top and Trim

I centered the plywood on the table, marked 4" from each edge, and used construction screws countersunk to attach the plywood. I then added the red oak trim strips to the outside edge. This hardwood will not only protect the plywood from getting damaged, but the hardwood will be a nice surface to clamp too. I sanded the entire top with a belt, then palm sander. I didn't spend a ton of time making it perfect, as it's a workshop table. I stained the top with Polyurethane and let it dry. I piled some of my scrap lumber on the bottom shelf, and I'm ready for my next project!

Comments

author
bbologna made it! (author)2016-10-01

Any concerns with doing any serious hammering while on casters? You might get some bounce, or movement.

author
MichaelMikkelson made it! (author)MichaelMikkelson2017-02-13

Sorry for the late reply, as I didn't see this until now. The casters are pretty beefy, so I doubt I'd have concerns on that. If this becomes a problem, I can always buy bigger casters!

author
IzzysDad made it! (author)2017-02-12

Great work! Was wondering, though I can probably figure it out myself with some thought, do you have a cut list/dims? Mostly for the legs construction? Thx!

author
MichaelMikkelson made it! (author)MichaelMikkelson2017-02-13

Sorry, no. I had some rough sketches before I started, and built it as I went along. I guess I had the entire thing laid out in my head, and it ended up working out pretty well. Hopefully, you can use the pictures to help figure out what isn't documented. Good luck.

author
Oldehawks10 made it! (author)2017-01-24

I like this idea being on casters. I have limited space and in need of both a lumber cart and a work station.

author
ThomasK19 made it! (author)2016-04-28

While the possibility to move a work table sounds nice, I need a work table that rests firmly on the ground and does not move when I want to work on it.

author
MichaelMikkelson made it! (author)MichaelMikkelson2016-04-28

2 of the caster wheels have locking brakes, so the table remains put. I think that there might be some applications where not having it on casters would be better, but with the weight of the table and the locks, the table doesn't move.

author
ThomasK19 made it! (author)ThomasK192016-04-28

How about adding some small lifters mounted to the legs which can be pressed down with levers (genius would be a central lever). A workbench needs to take have force downwards. Even with roll breaks I guess there is still a lot of instability.

Or (!) how about the rolls being retractable? So when settled they are inside the legs and for movement they can be pushed down.

author
MichaelMikkelson made it! (author)MichaelMikkelson2016-04-28

Good idea. I'll have to google that to see if there is an option that isn't too expensive. Also, I built the table to be the same height as my table saw, so modifying the design might change that height. I have that retractable wheels thing on my dewalt planer, so I know exactly what you are talking about.

author
ThomasK19 made it! (author)ThomasK192016-04-28

The heavier training tools for athletics (those you find in schools) have a lever to push down the wheels. I guess, placing something like that in the legs is challenging.

author
TomW27 made it! (author)2016-04-26

Did you put any kind of finish on your workbench?
Thanks

author
MichaelMikkelson made it! (author)MichaelMikkelson2016-04-26

Yes, I did a coat of Polyurethane and plan to do a few more coats this weekend. I had thought about doing an epoxy resin to make it stronger, but I figured that it is a workbench, and will be dinged up no matter what.

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