Introduction: Workshop Pegboard
I added a pegboard to my workshop. This is an easy, quick project that will add a lot of utility to any work space.
Step 1: Step One, Have Too Many Tools for Your Existing Storage Solutions.
I already have a pegboard - put it up as part of an earlier workbench project - but I seem to have accumulated too many tools to fit on it. Things are catching on each other when I take them down for use.
Step 2: So I Decided to Put Up Another Pegboard and Make Some Room.
I used some leftover pegboard from my first project, and went by Home Depot to pick up some inexpensive (US $1.35/each) dry pine 1"x2"x6' boards to use as framing. I'll want the pegboard's holes to be raised off the wall I'm mounting this board to, but not by much, so 1" is plenty of depth for my frame.
Step 3: Framing Pieces for All Four Sides Cut and Trimmed to Allow Max Peg Hole Usage.
I wasn't too concerned about perfect dimensions on the frame pieces since their joins will be hidden behind my pegboard, but I didn't want any huge gaps.
I don't have a router or tablesaw, so I couldn't set my pegboard material in a slot cut down the middle of a 1x1 or 1x2 and not lose *any* holes. And since I was using 1"x2" framing I was concerned that unless I mounted my pegboard material on just 1" of the 2" face, I'd be losing an extra row of peg holes on all four edges of my board.
So I decided to trim the inside edge of my framing pieces so that I'd preserve as many peg holes for use as possible.
Step 4: Pilot Holes Thru the Dry Pine Frame, Dryfitting.
This was an essential step, to my way of thinking. I could easily drive the drywall screws I planned to use for mounting the board to the frame members into the frame pieces, but dry pine splits easily. So I rough-fitted my trimmed and whittled frame pieces, then tapped pilot holes into all the frame pieces for both my mounting screws and the eventual, longer wall-mounting screws.
Step 5: You Gotta Have Some Fun, So... Secret Hidden Messages!
I figured that while my entire workshop is basically a place of amusement, extra special gems of fun are always good. So I added strange, secret hidden messages to my pegboard. Maybe someone will take this down someday and wonder "WTF?!?"
Step 6: Tap Pilot Holes Through the Basically Finished Pegboard for Wall Anchors.
I also tapped pilot holes through from the front once I'd tightened down my framing pieces. Then I found my wall studs (commonly thought to exist at 16" "on center", (meaning with 16" between the center of each stud,) wall studs have been known to exist in the wild at contractors' whimsy. Mine were nicely even and predictable at 16" though.)
Step 7: Slap It Up on the Wall!
And done! I mentioned earlier that my frame pieces were secured to the pegboard material with slightly-too-long drywall screws- this made it easy to temporarily position the board by myself while deciding on it's final location. I literally slapped the board to sink those screws slightly and give me a chance to eyeball the installation.
Unfortunately, I had a brain malfunction and screwed the board on upside down. Had to dismount it and try again with my carefully trimmed framing pieces properly aligned. But now it's happy!