~ World's Greenest WATER PUMP ~

~
Hydraulic Ram Pumps are very old technology that pump water using gravity and 2 valves to generate a repeating water hammer effect. The "hammer" pounds a little of the drive water into a pressure tank then up the delivery hose for your use. Why is it green? Because it's simple, reliable, pumps water without any engine, fuel or electricity or muscle power and can be made from mostly recycled materials.

The one I built has a few novelties that make it more reliable, cheaper and easier to operate than most of the plans you find on the Internet. It developed a steady 28psi pressure at the pump and delivered about 1,000 gallons per day where we wanted it.

last season, it hammered over 145,600 gallons of pond water up a steep hill to our garden over 700 feet away and over 100 feet higher than the pond! In the process, it saved us over 485 liters of diesel fuel we would have normally used to drive our diesel tractor to pump and tow the water around our farm.

The pump was built for about $50 worth of plumbing parts and a bunch of stuff that I had sitting in my scrap pile.

What's the secret? A strong gate valve - period.

Please have a look and enjoy the instructable and don't forget to rate it (and vote on April 20 of course).

Please let me know if I can make it better or easier to follow somehow, and I will be happy to answer any questions that you have so post away!!

Step 1: Get started!

Parts list.

You may want to print this picture to refer to later as an assembly guide.

Comments

[Diddi Ingi]

One question... with the pressure that the hammer builds up, how far upstream can you pump the water, using a regular garden hose? How far above the level of the original pond f.x.?

[eltigre]

this pump has about 700 feet of 3/4 inch flexible plastic pvc water pipe attached to it and the delivery point is about 110 feet above the pump.

Garden hose is about the same diameter but more flexible so it may not deliver as much as the flexible walls will absorb some pressure. the shorter the delivery hose, the more water you will have at the end of the hose. The larger the diameter of the delivery hose, the less it will pump because it will have to push a large weight of water through the hose. There is a happy medium so you may have to experiment. You may want to use more rigid hose, like water line pvc, even up to 1 inch diameter and put a garden hose connector on the end of it where you want to use the water. that worked for me when I added another 50 feet of hose on the end of my delivery pipe to drip water the garden. A soaker hose at the end worked well to drip water onto the garden for hours.

[paul.bobby]

we are missionaries in Nicaragua. We want to install one of these water pumps on a small island. The island is surrounded by a huge lake.
The question that we have is; can install the pump underwater and use the water pressure to power the pump?
We need to go 100' up and 300' inland.
Has anyone done this? Do you have any plans for this? Can you help us?

thanks

Bobby

[eltigre]

If part of the island is lower than the surface of the lake you might be able to make it work. These pumps need a head of water to operate. If you do not have the height of water it won't pump. All it takes is a small stream flowing from the island to the lake and you could make it work. Otherwise, you are better off with a wind or solar powered pump. If there is a steady current in the lake you could also try a sling pump.

[LisaFM]

I think you should get the instructable of the year award! the way you presented this is humorous, intelligent and witty and I can't wait to try to make one! Thank you so much!

[el_frenchy]

For those who wants to know more about this type of pump : http://www.walton.fr/hydraulic-ram.html
They are well known in France, they have been invented by Mr de Montgolfier (who also invented the hot air balloon by the way) so you may test your french at :
http://www.histoire-eau-hyeres.fr/610-q_et_r-belier-pg.html

another link http://energies-nouvelles-entreprises.pagesperso-orange.fr/ch12-71.htm

Once the company was for sale, I don't know if still on sale ? There is a enormous potential but need communication efforts

[Stefanovski]

it was invented by the one muslim scholar, don't forget origion of EU culture/renesanse and enginering are copy of muslims culture, science and engeniring. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vtgkcz87XbA

[Stefanovski]

can some one make and dscribe in detail this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKhXmPqm7og

[eltigre]

You could use high pressure pvc. My experiments with plastic did not go well because the constant pressure surges caused the abs fittings to burst after a few weeks. maybe if you are using a small diameter pipe like under 2" it will work for you. There are many designs on the web that show plastic pump bodies. I never had a problem with bursting after I built the pump body out of steel fittings.

You can definitely run the outflow back to the pond surface for agitation purposes. If the outflow is directed through a smaller diameter nozzle, it will spray quite far. I got at least 20 feet out of a 0.25" nozzle. You may get even farther out of a smaller diameter nozzle.

[ewolvin]

Could I also use pvc in stead of steel and also use it back to the pond using an Ariel sprinkler to agitate the pond itself ?

[neorush]

I have a large 4" ramp pump (~50 GPM) based on a swing check valve instead of modifying foot valves that works awesome as I have welded the proper weight to the back of the valve and it is very reliable. My problem is that the outlet spring check valve is only good for about 30 days of operation before the spring gets fatigued and breaks. Your design simply says "check valve" I'm assuming this is a spring check valve? Or does this some somehow work with a swing check valve?

[eltigre]

Hi Neo,

I am currently using a brass spring type check valve bought at a hardware store but there is no reason a more reliable type of check valve could not be used.

Also, in my design it is important to orient the check valve upright and level so that gravity assists its operation and you reduce side pressure on the valve seat and stem to avoid premature wear. My check valve has operated reliably for over 3 years with no maintenance. You are pushing lots more gallons through at likely higher pressure than me so that may account for the fast failure.

Maybe if you compress the valve spring and measure the tension in "PSI" then replace the spring with an equal weight of metal on the valve stem you might get away without a spring if you orient your valve to operate vertically, i.e. build a gravity powered spring.

I also experimented with neodymium magnets held in repulsion to replace the spring on the gate valve with some success before I moved to a weight operated valve. You might try that on the check valve and then you would have a permanent spring setup. Also there are plenty of home made check valve designs on the net if you search around a bit. Anytime you can avoid use of springs in these pumps you will increase reliability.

[neorush]

I ordered another 4" brass swing check valve (suckers aren't cheap but found one on ebay) to try and use as the outlet valve to eliminate any springs. I had the same thoughts you do, where you can orient the swing of the valve vertically so that gravity provides the "spring" tension. I figured I may need to weld additional weight to the back of the valve to add more tension. I'll try and remember to post back on how it goes, as this would really create a virtually maintenance free pump if it works. Thanks for the thoughts.

[mohannad91]

thaaaaaaaaaanks

[harry88]

I crunched the numbers and it comes out aproximantley at 1 gallon per minute how would you increase that?

[eltigre]

You can fine tune the pump for optimal output by adjusting the cycle rate per minute, the closure speed of the check valve, etc.

You can use a physically bigger pump 3" or 4" or 6" etc.

You can use multiple pumps if you have enough feed water capacity.

You can shorten the delivery pipe by running it high enough to transfer the flow to an open aquaduct that can ultimately deliver the water to its destination (reduce delivery pipe pressure)

1 gal/min seems trivial until you consider that these pumps run 24/7, in this case providing over 10,000 gal each week. Put another way, it will fill up your average size swimming pool every 2 weeks.

[Nelki]

Sorry but can you describe this sentence more colorfall I just can't understand them :,,To run it, you need about 5' of feed water pipe for every 1' of fall below your pond or creek. I have 10' of fall and 50' of feed pipe supplying 3 gallons/min. (A little longer would be better say 5.5:1) " Thanks in advance.

[eltigre]

You must install a pipe to feed water from your pond down to your pump to make the pump operate. The length of this pipe should be about 5'6" for every 1 foot of vertical height your pump sits below the pond surface. (1.68 meters length of feed water pipe for every 0.3 meters vertical height difference from pond surface to pump location.) e.g. if your pump is 10' below the pond surface you should have a feed pipe 55' long. If your pump is 5 feet below pond surface then the drive pipe is 27.5' long.

_________5.5"________ pond surface elevation
I }
I } 1'
pump location

Your feed water pipe does not have to be straight. it can follow the contours of the ground from the pond down to the pump. The feed water pipe should be rigid like metal if possible. I used heavy wall ABS plastic because it was much cheaper than metal pipe and it seems to work ok but metal is reported by some to increase pump efficiency.

[Nelki]

Thank you :)

[Nelki]

Sorry but can you describe this sentence more colorfall I just can't understand them :,,To run it, you need about 5' of feed water pipe for every 1' of fall below your pond or creek. I have 10' of fall and 50' of feed pipe supplying 3 gallons/min. (A little longer would be better say 5.5:1) "
Thanks in advance.

[perah1234]

I will go back to the first discussion on using the exhaust water.
The discussion was interesting but it has gone to nowere . And why - because we have forgotten that the ramp pump is usung difference in water levels to pump water up the hill . Produsind energy is another story and tryung to use the exghaust energy un this case is absurd. Every gain can be accomplished
only by investing some time/labour and ingenuity and utilising the exaust water of ramp pump will NOT pay the effort. You have enought water to use its energy if you need energy. The ram pump is pumping. Generatirs are generating. And in is fulish to look for "perpetum mobile" arround the ramp pump. It is onli a pump.

For all spelling axperts , english is not my mother tongue.
Regards perah123

[gfry]

Dynamite! I don't know where I've been the last 45 years, but I don't think I have ever come across a ram pump. If this thing pushes that much water you could tinker with it further and get it pushing a geared pelton wheel (or a flywheel of some kind)...get the thing making electricity for you at the same time.

[eltigre]

I have certainly thought about that. The exhaust water has enough force to drive a small turbine for sure. The valve stem force is considerable as well, so attaching a magnet directly to the top of the valve stem and dropping a coil around it leading to a bridge rectifier should produce measureable amounts of power as well. (Might be enough to run a couple led lights for around my pond) My calculations show that it is delivering water at an equivalent electrical rate of about 17 watts of power. Not bad at all considering it's absolutely cost fee to operate!

[mje]

Don't forget the Second Law of Thermodynamics- you can't get something for nothing. If you try to extract power from the exhaust, you'll increase the back pressure on the pump- and it will stop working. The work done in lifting the water has to come from somewhere, after all, and in this case it comes from the energy you gained in the water that fell and was not pumped back uphill. Try to extract energy from that water, and there's naught left to left the rest.

[danielwhw]

the pressure on the exhaust is not related to the water going uphill. now it may affect the frequency of the pump but replacing the weights with magnets and the coils he described can resolve the frequency issue.
Also using the exhaust water do drive a wheel wont change anything on the pump side if you don't create any back pressure.

[zerokewl777]

and I don't mean to rain down hard on ya mate but impossible is just a word for quitters... aim working on an overunity unit right now with these same pricibles... you forgot gravity remains a constant. if i put a water wheel a few feet away from the extraction point if will not even effect the machine... (btw if your smart you have a 10000000 dollar idea here heheh .. peace bro.

[zerokewl777]

Don't forget the Second Law of Thermodynamics??? what does heat have to do with a water pump? Ill give you the dynamic (movement) but thermo??(heat) it is for use in heat powered machines only.. with a few rare .. well if rambled on. sorry ( i sign up for an account to say this....

[The Ideanator]

Temperature is relative dude. Thermodynamics rules apply at sub-zero just as much as they do on the sun's surface, theres just a bigger difference.

[techball]

what would the point be in that, just attach a generator to the feed stream directly and bypass the pump all together, i believe that's the concept that hydro dams are based on... its funny, every engineer has probably tried to "make" a "over-unity" machine, aka, engine over 100% efficiency

[eltigre]

True enough, but in this case, there is plenty of energy left over in the exhaust. Since we have increased the velocity of the exhaust water by forcing the weight of a 55' long 2" column of water through 2 x 0.75" ports, we increase the pressure considerably. In fact, enough to throw the weight of the valve (about 1 lb. total) upwards against gravity at an accereration of about 1.5"/second. I agree you can not load it up to the point where it will stop the valve or slow it excessively, but there is still lots of power left over here to capture some secondary energy. One approach would be to reduce the weight of the valve ballast and substitute the weight of some neodymium magnets instead. Then install a coil around those magnets and the cyclical motion of the valve will generate electrical power when it operates, with no loss of water pumping power. What do you think? Want to help me design the system??

[zerokewl777]

I WILL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Email is [e-mail]( im a guy)

[WilderLust]

True... but as stated above, there is excess energy so while we cannot harvest all of the exhaust energy, much of it can be. the magnet idea is interesting but it must be remembered that when magnet is moved through a coil to generate electricity, a magnetic drag is created thus impeding the movement of the magnets so it will effect the valve. I think the simplest way to do this is to direct the exhaust jet over a simple water wheel connected to an electric motor turned to a small generator. the jet should have enough power to turn the wheel and generate a small amount of electricity. i love this pump design... i hope i will have a chance to build one sometime.

[mje]

Thermodynamics still applies ;-) If you turn the valve into a generator, you're taking energy away from the pump. You can't take energy out without getting it from somewhere.

[zerokewl777]

ARHHHHHHHHHHH ur way of science is about to die muahahahahaha :-) see above post

[rr52]

I think the idea is that the water wasted is blowing out and falling anyway. Redirecting it to turn a small turbine will not impede anything. Much like the wasted heat generated from a hydrogen fuel cell can be redirected into a home for additional heat instead of going off into the air taking efficiency from 35 to 85% efficiency. .

[eltigre]

Agreed, but I think the energy we want to capture is waste energy.

e.g.. you get free heat in your car in the winter from the waste heat generated by your engine. In the case of this pump, most of the available power is blown by the valve unused, So, if we installed a little Pelton wheel generator externally, the exhaust water might be used to drive it after it exits the valve body and therefore should not affect the efficiency of the water pumping operation. Like a jet engine afterburner, except we are already dumping our "fuel" , the exhaust pressure, so we don't have to add any more fuel to the equation. Maybe regenerative braking is a better example, or better yet... cogeneration, just like my geothermal heating system provides me with free hot water from the waste heat it tries to get rid of during it's operating cycle.

[mje]

Well, you're certainly welcome to experiment! But I think you'll find very little energy can be extracted from the exhaust. The car analogy only works because you're dealing with an inefficient system to begin with. But- surprise of surprises- turning on the heater in your car uses gas!

[zerokewl777]

omg!! i could show u how to make an overunity unit with these same plans on a smaller scale using only a few liters of water... and because no power is being put in the extrat force along coming out of the pipe and the fallign water would be enof to turn a small water wheel with an altanator btw everything here said of mine © ;-)

[MinerJay]

Good luck with that working mate, by the way please learn how to spell.

[Taranach]

I beg to differ, I have tested fuel efficiencies of my truck in summer and winter and the heat that can come through without the dashboard fans is sufficient to heat the truck, no wasted gas. Interesting enough, it takes slightly MORE gas to operate the truck in summer due to having to dump the heat away from the engine. I get 18.53 MPG in winter and 17.26 MPG in summer with all else being equal. Simple thermodynamics. As for not being able to recover the waste energy, bull pucky! Have the exhaust water drain into a catch basis a couple feet away and the water will regain all the potential energy from flowing downhill. The longer the distance between the catch basin and your power generation, the greater this potential becomes.