Step 4How it works...
To run it, you need about 5' of feed water pipe for every 1' of fall below your pond or creek. I have 10' of fall and 50' of feed pipe supplying 3 gallons/min. (A little longer would be better say 5.5:1)
Now manually push (cycle) the valve cap adjuster up and down about 30 or 40 times to fill the pressure tank. These pumps need back pressure in the tank to operate automatically. When the pump starts to cycle on it's own, you will want to screw the adjuster cap up or down to make the cycle frequency about 60 - 150 cycles per minute.
Experiment with the cycle frequency to find what delivers the most water for you. Lots of troubleshooting guides on the net to help you fine tune it. You may need to add or remove some weight off the bottom of the valve stem if it cycles too fast or slow and you don't have enough adjustment available by turning the upper valve cap. A little denial and error and you will find the sweet spot to get it running smoothly.
I have found that if it cycles too fast, you don't build up any pressure and delivery flow is low or stops. If it cycles too slow, delivery flow is weaker and you use more feed water than necessary and you can drain the feed pipe if your supply water is limited. Mine seems to deliver the most water at a cycle rate of 150/minute.
Enjoy your gravity powered water pump, it's the closest thing you may ever see to perpetual motion... Hopefully you can see the movie of it working.
This is the best hobby project I have ever built from scrap parts and recycled junk. We use it every day all summer long and it facinates everyone who comes to visit us while saving real money!
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Also using the exhaust water do drive a wheel wont change anything on the pump side if you don't create any back pressure.
e.g.. you get free heat in your car in the winter from the waste heat generated by your engine. In the case of this pump, most of the available power is blown by the valve unused, So, if we installed a little Pelton wheel generator externally, the exhaust water might be used to drive it after it exits the valve body and therefore should not affect the efficiency of the water pumping operation. Like a jet engine afterburner, except we are already dumping our "fuel" , the exhaust pressure, so we don't have to add any more fuel to the equation. Maybe regenerative braking is a better example, or better yet... cogeneration, just like my geothermal heating system provides me with free hot water from the waste heat it tries to get rid of during it's operating cycle.
There's really no disagreement here. The hydraulic ram is running right on the edge, efficiency-wise. Any energy you draw *from the ram* will affect the functioning of the ram. If you let the water fall another foot or so, you're not using the energy of the exhaust- you're simply tapping the gravitation gradient between the ram and where you put your turbine, which I think is what you're saying. But that's not tapping into "waste energy" from the ram, which was someone's initial contention.
The 15-17 watts we calculated is x water at y height with earth gravity
Potential energy = mgh, mass times gravity constant, times height.
Thats maximum power INCLUDED in the falling water, no matter what design you can only hope to extract a portion of that wattage.
Now lets get really freaky. Joseph Newman suggests that there is an odd set of principles involved in the output potentials of rotating bodies. (Wiki the name) I hate to use him as a reference, but regardless of the man's eccentricities, there seems to be something to what he is talking about.
Wow, I hope I haven't lost all credibility at this point. His premise suggests that energy into a system can be significantly less than the rotational energy out. And, yes there may be ducks flying overhead right now making lots of noise but the only way to definitively prove or disprove the point would be to try it out. So, based on his theories, regardless of the flow rate and height, more energy output may be possible than the 17 watts due to the introduction of a large rotating "body" into the system.
We are trying to farm on the banks of Lake Tanganyika and our solar pump is not coping, so this would be ideal. Love this idea, need to know 3 things please:
1. you mentioned details on the gate valve but I can't see any
2. i don't understand how the check valve is connected to the pressure tank, does the cap move within the 1.5' pipe, then reduced to fit into the tank??
3. does the pump have to be below the water line to operate, i.e. water is forced into the inlet pipe by gravity?.
Please have a look at step 1 above to see how it is all connected together. I think you are asking 'How is the GATE valve connected to the pressure tank" and it is not connected. The check valve is connected just below the pressure tank, please review step 1 above for details.
The pump does need to be below the water line to operate. You will need at least 5 feet of fall to make gravity operate the pump.