As a long-time "worm composter" or vermicomposter, I have tried many different types of worm bin systems. I've made several of those simple boxes with holes drilled in them, wood ones, rubbermaid bins, etc. and while the worms seem happy in there, I am too lazy to separate the worms from the compost that results. I've also tried those stacking type, both the homemade type and the expensive worm farm type. I like those better, but I'm still not happy with lifting out those dirty, heavy trays to get to the good stuff in the bottom tray. It always gets my clothes and basement dirty. I read about a funnel shaped, plasticized bag called the "Worm Swag", which uses a "flow-through" system of composting where your leftover food goes in at the top, the worms hang out up there, eating the food and the finished compost can be harvested from the bottom. This inspired me to make my own worm bag integrated into a table I called the Digestive Table, which can be seenhere. People emailed me, wishing this was easier for them to build themselves, so I came up with this simplified version. I call it the worm bag.
This version of the worm bag is made of wood, so you'll need some tools, a saw, a drill, a carpenter's square and a palm sander. If you don't have access to these, or you just don't feel like getting dirty, you might be interested in the laundry hamper worm bag, which only requires sewing a bag and purchasing a laundry hamper frame (around $20). Mine is a nice sturdy chrome style from the Container Store, pictured below. The bag part of this Instructable is designed for the wood frame style, so you'll need to adjust your measurements if you go with the laundry hamper frame instead. I decided to focus this Instructable on the wood frame style, because it is a little cheaper to build and more customizable.
I spent around $40 on materials. This is what you will need and the approximate cost:
$7.50 for 1.5 yards of fabric - 100% polyester felt. Ecospun from Joanne Fabrics is what I've used here because I like that it is made of post-consumer recycled bottles. I've also used landscaping fabric.
$1.79 for a package of 2 cord stops Joanne Fabrics
$2.59 for a spool of thread - 100% polyester or nylon. Cotton will disintegrate, so don't use it for this project.
$4.24 for 1 length of pine, 8' x 2" x 1"
$6.48 for 2 lengths of pine, 6' x 2" x 1
$5.00 for a Rubbermaid wash tub - or another brand that has a 12.5" x 12.5" sized tub
$5.00 ? for a 1/4" thick piece of plywood that is 20" x 15" - not really sure how much this is, since I had some around.
$3.00 ? for 16 wood screws 1 1/4" long - again I'm guessing on price here
$3.00 for some wood glue
$3.00 ? for 2.5 yards of nylon cord - I actually just used some old hiking boot laces I had around.
The finished project measures 24" tall x 20" wide and 15" deep. It will fit nicely in your home, pantry, basement or even at your office. Impress your work friends with your recycling gadget that eats coffee grounds, teabags, unwanted lunch scraps and shredded paper, turning it all into office plant fertilizer!
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Signing UpStep 1Layout your fabric
The polyester felt fabric comes 72" wide and you'll need to get 1 1/2 half yards of it. The EcoSpun fabric I chose at Joanne Fabrics was only $5 a yard and I saw a lot of great colors there. I picked a dark color because I did not want the coffee grounds and other foods to show stains. I'm not sure if they would though.
This fabric is not as thick as it needs to be to strong enough to hold all the worm goodness and keep it dark enough inside for them, so it is doubled up. In the pattern youll see the basic layout and where to fold the fabric over. After folding your fabric, you will have a rectangle that is 42" x 36". Get a piece of chalk so you can map out where to cut it.
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So, sadly my progress was for naught but i am going to post up a 'step can' tutorial for those who might have similar problems.
I am converting a steel stepcan into the new vermienvironment and its sturdy construction should keep out any little critters.
cross your fingers for me, but for those of you who also co-habitate with mice on occasion, this is fair warning. :(
I am happy wormkeeper now very much thanks to this instructable which gave me courage to take them into a tiny apartment.
I thought I would briefly share my modifications too. My wormbin has wheels because I have to move things around in my little kitchen when I use my laundry machine. And with wheels it's convenient to have a "floor" for the wormtea bowl.
The frame and bag are really contrast colored so I did not want the fabric covering the rim. Solution was to use wire in a fabric tunnel and attach the wire to the frame in cornes only. It's not too perfect actually, when the bag gets heavy wire might slip over the screws holding it - needs an improvement.
Thanks so much for posting the pictures of your modifications for others to see here!
amy
Thanks great job!
http://www.weknowstuff.us.com/
http://rkimedes.livejournal.com/370812.html
Even though the material is made of polyester felt, it is still very porous and indeed water can flow through it. I have poured water into the top and retrieved the resulting compost tea from the tub below. I have not done it very often, but it would be interesting if someone on this comment list knows if it can be done every week and continue to provide nutrient-rich fertilizer. Maybe you will try it and let us know? BTW, I would not try making this out of cotton, since worms will eat it!
-amy
I have a couple of comments for improvement:
It's a little confusing when you say, "Then, repeat process - pilot hole drilling and screwing - on the other side."
I thought you meant do the other end of the frame -- not just the second screw on the same end!
Drilling and putting the 2nd screw in just seemed so natural to me... that I went ahead and did it... and then read, "repeat process on the other side."
At that point, I thought it meant, Add the second piece of wood to the other side, and do the same thing.... which I did.
Thus, I ended up with a perfectly symmetrical rectangular frame (thinking this was how it was supposed to be)...
Whoops! I didn't realize my mistake until it was too late.... Now my frame won't rest levelly on the floor! (My mistake -- I'll find a way to level it.)
Perhaps it would be helpful for others - if you could change the wording to:
"For your second screw, repeat the process-- drill a pilot hole with countersink, then screw the second screw in.
After this:
You now should have a U-shaped frame that is "open" on one end.
Don't attach the other piece of wood yet!! Read the next step *before* completing this rectangular frame."
What do you think?
And thanks for the awesome instructable! I can't wait to start composting!