This tutorial will show how to make a paracord bracelet or watch band using a weaving method. More knot work with releated links and resources can be seen on my blog page, Stormdrane's Blog.
Step 1: Supplies
For this project, you'll need approximately 10 feet of paracord, scissors, lighter, tape measure, hemostats, watch, and a 5/8" side release buckle. I used a 5/8" ITW Nexus contoured side release buckle, but you can use other less expensive ones like those found at Creative Designworks.
Paracord can be found at local Army/Navy stores or from various online sources: Supply Captain, Lighthound, Cool Glow Stuff!, ebay, etc...
The actual amount of paracord that will be used depends on your wrist size. My wrist is about 8.5 inches and I actually used around 8 or 9 feet after finishing the bracelet/watchband. So using 10 feet is a safe estimate for most folks, since having too much cord is better than coming up short when making your project.
*If making a watchband, the watch needs to have about 5/8" space between the lugs(where the watch pins go) so that 5 strands of paracord will fit.
Paracord can be found at local Army/Navy stores or from various online sources: Supply Captain, Lighthound, Cool Glow Stuff!, ebay, etc...
The actual amount of paracord that will be used depends on your wrist size. My wrist is about 8.5 inches and I actually used around 8 or 9 feet after finishing the bracelet/watchband. So using 10 feet is a safe estimate for most folks, since having too much cord is better than coming up short when making your project.
*If making a watchband, the watch needs to have about 5/8" space between the lugs(where the watch pins go) so that 5 strands of paracord will fit.
Step 2: To begin
Measure about 20 inches from one end of your length of paracord. This is where you'll loop onto one end of your side release buckle. Once attached, you'll have the longer section which will be your working end and the shorter end which is just attached to the buckle ends and will be tucked in when finishing the bracelet/watchband.
Step 3: Add the watch and adjust for wrist size
If making as a watchband, this is where you take the strands of paracord from the looped section of the buckle and run them over the watch pin, under the watch, and over the other watch pins. Then you loop the paracord around the other buckle end twice.
At this point, you'll measure the distance between the buckle ends for your wrist size. The distance should be equal to your actual wrist measurement. The weaving process will stretch this original spacing of bracelet/watchband about another inch after tightening as you reach the finishing point.
*Don't include the prong section half of the male end of the buckle in your measurement. It is snapped into the female half of the buckle when worn and isn't used in figuring the wrist measurement.
Now bring the cord ends back thru the watch pins, along side your first pass, and around the starting buckle end.
*If you're just making a paracord bracelet, you'll just be going from one end of the buckle to the other without adding the watch.
At this point, you'll measure the distance between the buckle ends for your wrist size. The distance should be equal to your actual wrist measurement. The weaving process will stretch this original spacing of bracelet/watchband about another inch after tightening as you reach the finishing point.
*Don't include the prong section half of the male end of the buckle in your measurement. It is snapped into the female half of the buckle when worn and isn't used in figuring the wrist measurement.
Now bring the cord ends back thru the watch pins, along side your first pass, and around the starting buckle end.
*If you're just making a paracord bracelet, you'll just be going from one end of the buckle to the other without adding the watch.
Step 4: Begin weaving
Now you begin weaving the long working end of your paracord. The shorter end will be left out until it's time to finish the bracelet/watchband, and tuck it into the weave.
This weaving process is called 'weaving with three warps'. You'll be going around the outer cord with your working strand, under the center two cords(which you treat as one cord), and around the other outer cord.
You weave it back over the center two strands and around the outer, continuing this process, back and forth. Try not to leave too much slack as you go to keep the weave uniform. Every couple of weaves, push your work tight, up towards the starting buckle end.
This weaving process is called 'weaving with three warps'. You'll be going around the outer cord with your working strand, under the center two cords(which you treat as one cord), and around the other outer cord.
You weave it back over the center two strands and around the outer, continuing this process, back and forth. Try not to leave too much slack as you go to keep the weave uniform. Every couple of weaves, push your work tight, up towards the starting buckle end.
Step 5: Threading the watch
Once you've reached the point where your watch will be centered, push the watch tight against the woven cord and bring your working strand thru the pin along side the other cords under the watch, and back thru the other pin.
*If making the bracelet, there' s no watch in the way, so just keep weaving. ;)
*If making the bracelet, there' s no watch in the way, so just keep weaving. ;)
Step 6: Continue on the other side of the watch
Continue weaving the paracord, keeping a uniform look, and tightening as you go.
A pair of hemostats can help work the cord around as you get close to the buckle end, making the last couple of weaves.
A pair of hemostats can help work the cord around as you get close to the buckle end, making the last couple of weaves.
Step 7: Finishing up
To finish up, you'll take the working strand around one of the outer cord, so it's coming thru the under side of the bracelet/watchband.
*Check for a good fit on your wrist at this point. If it's too loose or too tight, untie, adjust your starting measurement longer or shorter to correct, and try again. I have to do this myself sometimes. ;)
Take your hemostats and work them thru about three of the center weaves, towards the buckle end. Grasp the working strand and pull it back thru the center weaves.
Trim the end with your scissors, quick melt the end to prevent the cord from fraying, and tuck it under the weave.
Now do the same with the shorter end of cord and you're done.
If you measure again, you'll see that the finished length is about 1 inch longer than the starting measurement. This will vary depending on your tightening of the weave as you go, but should make for a loose/comfortable fit.
Enjoy!
*Anyone that's worn a nylon/paracord bracelet/watchband knows it can get dirty and smell funky after a while of use. I use an old soft bristle toothbrush to scrub with soap/water in the sink to clean it(while it's on the watch(hopefully yours is water resistant/waterproof), and let it air dry overnight.
*A note on paracord shrinkage:
Ubraidit.com mentions that paracord may shrink as much as 10%-12%(especially black and kelly green), so they recommend soaking the cord first. They note that it's the inner strands that shrink, not the outer sheath. I believe they use 450 or 650 grade paracord, which I think, has a few loose fibrous polyester filler cords instead of the usual 7 twisted nylon strands, found in 'Type III 550 mil-spec paracord which isn't supposed to shrink up. I've mostly used the mil-spec type paracord, so if it's shrunk on me, it's not noticeable. YMMV ;)
*Check for a good fit on your wrist at this point. If it's too loose or too tight, untie, adjust your starting measurement longer or shorter to correct, and try again. I have to do this myself sometimes. ;)
Take your hemostats and work them thru about three of the center weaves, towards the buckle end. Grasp the working strand and pull it back thru the center weaves.
Trim the end with your scissors, quick melt the end to prevent the cord from fraying, and tuck it under the weave.
Now do the same with the shorter end of cord and you're done.
If you measure again, you'll see that the finished length is about 1 inch longer than the starting measurement. This will vary depending on your tightening of the weave as you go, but should make for a loose/comfortable fit.
Enjoy!
*Anyone that's worn a nylon/paracord bracelet/watchband knows it can get dirty and smell funky after a while of use. I use an old soft bristle toothbrush to scrub with soap/water in the sink to clean it(while it's on the watch(hopefully yours is water resistant/waterproof), and let it air dry overnight.
*A note on paracord shrinkage:
Ubraidit.com mentions that paracord may shrink as much as 10%-12%(especially black and kelly green), so they recommend soaking the cord first. They note that it's the inner strands that shrink, not the outer sheath. I believe they use 450 or 650 grade paracord, which I think, has a few loose fibrous polyester filler cords instead of the usual 7 twisted nylon strands, found in 'Type III 550 mil-spec paracord which isn't supposed to shrink up. I've mostly used the mil-spec type paracord, so if it's shrunk on me, it's not noticeable. YMMV ;)
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D:
Thank you!
I promissed some pictures of my result following this great tutorial.
Hope you like it (this was my first paracord experience and I'm hooked).
Wouter
Thanks again very much!
Wouter
The one I have looks to be discontinued, although there are still some 'ReefGear' models out there. They vary in design and some look to have narrow lugs that may not work with multi-strand paracord watchbands...
You can do a similar looking two color pattern with two working ends by following tutorials that show how to tie the six pack/ladder rack/trilobite knot.
All watches are different, so some will work, some won't, you just have to find a suitable model for the paracord watchband. You can still tie the paracord bracelet without a watch... ;)
You can use wood burning tools and soldering irons as well as lighters, and you can tuck the cord ends instead of melting, sewing, or gluing them too, with various finishing methods, just a quick melt with a flame is simply the quickest/easiest method with the others taking more time.
The hot melted paracord can burn, so as always take care and knot responsibly... ;)
The core strands that will be woven around will use around 10' feet or so before the weaving is even started, so if I were making a 27" long sling, I'd start with a 40' length of cord to be on the safe side.
What am I doing wrong? This has happened on three sets of reins. Is this normal?
FYI, UNbraiding is not nearly as fun as BRAIDING.
I've not tied any horse tack, but I think some of the folks over at ubraidit.com might be able to better help you with your project since they have a lot of experience with your particular task. ;)