Step 6: Belts and Gearing

It is recommended that you hand-drill the holes for the belt gear-shafts. Our spacing worked out to be 11.75in, but yours may vary based on your belt. It is important that the belt be tight enough to reduce slack but not so tight such that there is too much friction.

To mount the x-axis motor, it is best to move the strut closest to the gear back. After affixing the small gear to the motor shaft with gorilla glue or epoxy, align the motor gear with the belt gear. The stepper should be upside down as in the picture below. Adjust the height so that the two gears are flush. Mark this on the strut. Use epoxy or gorilla glue to fix one side of the strut to the motor - preferably the side that allows the wires to face in the y-axis direction (as seen in the photo below).

Once the motor is attached, position the strut such that the two gears are aligned. Hold the strut in place, move the belt; if your gear is off center, you may need to adjust the motor position. Once you're found the "sweet spot" so the gears mesh evenly, mark where the two new screw holes for the strut will do. Drill and mount the strut. We also found that adding two small acrylic "guides" to the bottom of the y-axis allowed the belts to move the y-axis better.

The exact process can be replicated for the y-axis. Note you may need to counter-balance the y-axis motor with a weight on the other side.
<p>Thanks for info.</p>
no updates?
hello, I'm doing a prototype plotter but I am con difficulty in programming the arduino, I would like to provide programming to help me? <br>My contact email is danielffonsi@hotmail.com <br>grateful for the attention
hi! can you post your electric schematic? i need to make a cutter plotter.
hi! can you post your electric schematic? i need to make a cutter plotter.
I would suggest you shorten the marker arm. It only needs maybe a milimeter of movement, and I noticed that the marker was flopping around. I would also suggest gripping lower on the marker, to avoid the bending as well. Also, where can I get software to convert a .dae to G-code? I want to build a 3-D printer using arduino, and can't find an easy way to directly output G-code from the computer to the arduino one line at a time.
the goldmine-elec-products links are dead. could you please describe the parts you were using? thanks a lot!
Have anyone completed this project? I want to make it but I'm stuck on the reprogramming part to convert the 3d reprap code to 2d use.I'm a mechanical guy and not much familiar with programming...If anyone have already done this project please help.
See link below for inkscape extension which may be useful <br> <br>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17631
Sounds like this could be redone to use a plasma cutter--just beef up the structure a bit. Hmm...sounds like I have a new project...:)
I had made something like this way back when I was in college. At the time I had very limited hardware. My stepper motors were drived from the parallel port through a buffer and controlled using a simple visual basic program to draw lines with a LOGO style commands. The pen was lifted using an electromagnet from a relay coil. Since then I've always wanted to improve on it and draw pictures and shapes from files. I now even have a dremel, drill, vice etc. probably my dream will come true now, thanks a ton.
Excellent explanation, very easy to follow and very helpful.
Thanks for this!
You mention the Arduino, but didn't include it in the &quot;Materials&quot; list. Add please :)
Are stepper mototrs harder to control than servos? What are the differences?
What about an airbrush for specialty work? It could be set up to run multi color via seperate tubes and orifices. The orifices as well as the &quot;media&quot; pressure could be made adjustable. <br> <br>Your project is basically a very much improved version of the old pantograph and &quot;tracers&quot; used for drawing as well as router work. What you have built could easily (?) be modified to operate larger units in order to produce... <br> <br>Like al of the others I commend you for your efforts. Truly a job well done!! <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
I'm thinking that if you move the servo to the underside of the Y-axis that rides on, and move the pen holder down close to the tip (the way we hold them) , it would wobble very little. Try holding a Sharpie by the cap and writing your name; it'll be very difficult because there's too much friction and leverage. <br> <br>Also perhaps substituting larger dowels - like 1/2&quot; or greater - for less flex might help. Nice 'ible! 3/5 stars.
Sweet! Could this build perhaps be reworked into a mechanized Etch A Sketch? That would be pretty neat.<br /><br />
THAT is a fabulous idea!
Coolo! This looks like my next project.<br><br>@nutsandbolts_64 and @Unclegummers -- The pen-on-servo trick works surprisingly well in the egg-bot, which is where I'd guess they got the idea.
Why not use a rack and pinion gear on the pen so that it goes straight up and down instead of just, well how it is then. The servo motor will still prove useful nonetheless to turn the small gear and raise/lower the rack along with the pen. I would like to see an RGB version of this someday.
Very cool! I think if you just secured the pen a little bit better and used something with less friction than a sharpie the loose pen issue may be solved.<br><br>Good start for maybe eventually attaching a drill or something to it and creating a CNC machine ;)
Not really liking how loose the pen is. I like your project, but I suggest using worm gears on the axis instead of belts.

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