In this Instructable I will show you how to make your own Xbox 360 rapid fire controller mod. Please be aware that tampering with the controller voids the warranty of the xbox. Before you start this project be sure that you are prepared to do this because once you open the controller there is no going back.

WARNING: your controller can break if you do this wrong ( WORKS ONLY WITH WIRELESS )

This is for informational purposes only. use this to have fun. Do not use this in an xbox live ranked game because you are liable to get reported and banned for it

********* Make sure you ar comfortable with using a Soldering Iron because if any solder gets on the circuit board it could creat a short circuit which would break your controller******************

** This controller is not a working mod. This is a old broken controller that I used to show what The wires and stuff should look like. For your controller mod you need to have the one with the silver resistor thing on the front right below where themain xbox controller button is.

Step 1: Supplies

WARNING: Your controller can break if you do it wrong

These are the supplies that you will need to complete your project:
1. A soldering iron
2. 22 gauge hook-up wire (at least 2 ft)
3. Solder (I had a small roll of it)
4. 1 momentary pushbutton switch
5. Hot glue gun
6. Xbox 360 wireless controller
7. Torx 8 security screwdriver
8. A drill with a drill bit that fits the size of the button.

MAKE SURE THE SCREWDRIVER IS THE CORRECT TYPE!! I ordered online because it is very difficult to find in stores. also make sure it is the kind with a small hole on the tip.

Numbers 1-5 can all be found at Radio Shack

The cost of this project is about $25 not including the controller

Step 2: Opening the Controller

To open the controller take the torx 8 security screwdriver and unscrew all be screws. There are 7 screws to find the seventh one open the battery pack and remove the small sticker that is covering it.

Step 3: Opening the Controller II

Once you have taken out all 7 screws carefully lift the back off, when you have completed this take the grey piece off of the bottom. Follow the pictures for guidance.

Step 4: Taking Out the Circuit Board

Now carefully lift the circuit board from the front of the controller. Make sure that the buttons stay facing downward or else they will fall out.

Step 5: Soldering the Wire

Take a length of wire about six inches long and solder it to the second spike of three (see pictures)

*Be careful not to burn the circuit board or else it may break*

Step 6: Soldering the Second Wire

Now, Take another length of wire about the same length (6 inches) and solder it to the spot indicated in the pictures.

*Be careful not to burn the circuit board or else it may break*

Step 7: Inserting the Button

Now drill a hole in the back of the controller where you want your button to be. Make sure you drill in a spot where the button can have room. Once you have drilled the hole insert the button and glue it to the controller.

Step 8:

Now that you have inserted the Momentary push button into its hole attach the two wires from before to each of the little prongs make sure that the two wires do not touch each other.

Step 9: Close It Up

Now close the controller. This should be easy and if not you may have to reposition the button or tuck in the wires. Now you are ready to play!
<p>I did this but it fires when im not pressing the button. stops firing when i press it.. ideas?</p>
You probably bought a button thats always on ane turns off when you push it instead of one thats off and turns on when it is pushed
So is this for the 'new style' ones without the chip (or crystal, or whatever it is)
is tht a tp3 controller?
So once you remove the board and stuff everything gets really blurry?
yes, so make sure you put glasses on<br />
Good deal.....
will 24 gauge speaker wire work?
is there any where else i can solder besides the led?
My son and I did this to our controller and all the new button does is single fire? Are there certain controllers that do not work? Any help is appreciated!
That means your controller is too new to do the rapid fire mod. Like tyeo098 said above, if it uses Matrix code, it won't work.
i tried it on a newer controller to get an extra trigger(i droped it and the regular trigger stoped working) and it resets the controller, alos i was messin with the contacts to see what else i could do if you short the top and bottem pins on the trigger it spins you in circles and trows ur grenades<br>i use halo reach to test<br>
mrgrimme13. Your probably trying to use your controller on a new game like MODERN WARFARE 2 that has been patched to prevent rapid fire under this technique. If you follow these steps and put say HALO ODST or many other games you will notice that pistols, shotguns, sniper rifles are all now FULLY Auto.
on the right vibrating motor you can solder a wire for the button to the right connector. its closer and it works on the newer controllers where the led thing does not.
hey A.C.E. i did what you said about soldering to the right pin above the rumble but the button is just acting like a normal trigger how do i get it to rapid fire??
that was the same for me i have a newer wired controller
thanks a lot for this tip. the other way didn't work for me even with my older controller, but this one worked perfectly! Plus since I had been forced to remove the right vibrating motor to fit the button anyway, it was much easier to solder the connection because there was already a hole and a plate for the wire, as opposed to the side of a tiny LED
You should make a tutorial on that version.<br />
I did this for my controller, but now I am curious about where to connect the wires for a left trigger rapid fire, for Halo dual weilding.
you cant, you'd need to have both LEDs be on, or have them both be on the P1 LED and not hit them at the same time
i was trying to do the same thing i think you can use diods to do it but i dont know how<br>i also figured i coul use diodes to make it work without being player 1
Solution: Connect the center trigger post to the switch, then from the switch to the ground on the vibration motor. I got both triggers working using this method.
okay I have a tp3 model. I soldered the middle trigger pin and then to the momentary switch. I then soldered the other wire to the other side and touched it to the bottom of the led to test it. I pressed the momentary switch and let go it shot once. I held it down and it did nothing. do I need a momentary switch that is normally open like vandal 1138 said, because mine is normally closed.
u need a norm open one
does norm open mean that when you don't push it does nothing
correct. The easiest way to remember which is which for NO and NC switches is think about the open and closed part of them... a closed circuit can pass electricity from the battery neg to pos. A circuit that is not closed, cant conduct electricity.
hmmmm. I got a normally open momentary switch, soldered all the connections as listed, but it doesnt seem to be working. I checked and I DO have the right type of controller. everythign works fine, but my extra button does nothing. if I cant get it to work I'm gonna desolder the wires and hook the button up to a variety of different important buttons that are generally inconvenient to press (rb and lb probably) with a selector switch to change the function. that may be useful. either way, I never soldered before this project (risky, huh?) but now I really have the hang of it. thanks!
do you solder it the push button and who now how to use a push button
That doesn't make any sense.
I broke off the &quot;D21&quot; slot, so I have a normal controller with an extra trigger and 3 broken LED lights. :(
Does this work for COD5?
where can i find that screwdriver in canada?
A car store, but when you get it make sure it is long enough to fit in the hole
make sure its long enough to fit in the hole<br /> <br /> <br /> thats what she said<br />
I'm not sure where to get it in the case of stores but www.wihatools.com is a company that specializes in that kind of screwdriver, so you could order from them.
Does this work with the controllers that do not have the silver thing on the front, but on the back
No, if the crystal is on the back it means that its a newer one that uses Matrix code, not PWM to pulse the LED.<br /> It will not work. Invest in a 555 timer.<br />
in my wireless controller I dont have a silver risistor but a square light brown one. does this effect mod( does it even work ). does it have something to do with that it is a black elite controller? please help
I used krazy glue, works fine. :D<br />
Hey mate, i did exactly like you and everything was working with my controller, except the rapid fire button. The rapid fire button was&nbsp;acting like a normal trigger, so how&nbsp;can i get it working&nbsp;as a rapid fire button?&quot;<br /> <br /> Send me email at: <a href="mailto:juho.kurri@hotmail.com" rel="nofollow">juho.kurri@hotmail.com</a>&nbsp;
does this mod work on mw2<br />
jsut tried this... only one issue.. the button will only allow a single shot now matter how long i hold it down.. and by photo comparison it is the same board as the one in this instructable.&nbsp; is there some adjustment to the potentiometer or the solder points (alternate location of second wire)?<br />
can i use a diff gauge wire than .22<br /> <br />
Hey guys, I&nbsp;just modded my Controller up. like this one here :D its too funnny, was playin &quot;Army of Two:&nbsp;The 40th Day&quot; and my character was shooting up all the time :/&nbsp;a bit strange<br /> what could be the reason for?&nbsp;<br />
I'm not sure, but I'm guessing the game has realistic recoil, and there's really no fix to that.<br />

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