After getting in the Super Street Fighter II Turbo HD Remix Beta (thats a mouthful), I realized just how much I didn't like the XBOX 360 D-Pad with fighting games. For example, I would try to hold backwards to block and I would jump. And with the release of Soul Calibur IV, and games like SF IV,SF HD, and Marvel vs Capcom 3 on the horizon, I needed an arcade style stick. So I started a search for a new controller, preferably an arcade style stick, and found out they tended to be a little on the expensive side: around $100-$200 dollars. So I came to instructables.com and stumbled onto Pocket Universe's Project Gyokusho. I saw it wasn't that difficult and made up my mind to make my own, but I wanted to go the wireless route.
I used a bunch of sources to complete this project and I am going to list the appropriate links for each of those sources, if I feel the need to elaborate on a particular source I will do so. If anyone would like some explanation on a particular part they feel unclear on, please let me know and I will do my best to elaborate further. Also, read the entire tutorial first, including all of the notes on the pictures I included, because I actually did some of the electronics work while I was waiting for the wood glue to cure, paint to dry, etc.
***And just as a disclaimer, I'm not a pro at any of the things I am going to discuss. I'm just a 31 year old who never had something I didn't take apart at one time or another. I've never had any formal training with soldering or woodworking, but I do know that anything worth doing, is worth doing wrong until you can learn to do it right. With that being said, if you know of a way of doing something easier than how I have done it, PLEASE tell me, I'm also a firm believer in working smarter not harder. Also, some of the pictures are from my second and third controller since I forgot to take pictures of certain aspects of this tutorial when I started, I have noted them as such and included any differences therein.***
I used a bunch of sources to complete this project and I am going to list the appropriate links for each of those sources, if I feel the need to elaborate on a particular source I will do so. If anyone would like some explanation on a particular part they feel unclear on, please let me know and I will do my best to elaborate further. Also, read the entire tutorial first, including all of the notes on the pictures I included, because I actually did some of the electronics work while I was waiting for the wood glue to cure, paint to dry, etc.
***And just as a disclaimer, I'm not a pro at any of the things I am going to discuss. I'm just a 31 year old who never had something I didn't take apart at one time or another. I've never had any formal training with soldering or woodworking, but I do know that anything worth doing, is worth doing wrong until you can learn to do it right. With that being said, if you know of a way of doing something easier than how I have done it, PLEASE tell me, I'm also a firm believer in working smarter not harder. Also, some of the pictures are from my second and third controller since I forgot to take pictures of certain aspects of this tutorial when I started, I have noted them as such and included any differences therein.***
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Gathering Materials
The first step of any building project is gathering the materials. Its good to have a list of all the things you need and once you have gathered everything, lay it out in front of you and go down your list to make sure it is all there. There is nothing more frustrating than realizing you don't have something you need after the store is closed. You also are going to need a well ventilated room to do most of the woodworking. Its also nice to have a lot of room to work. In my experience, injuries or mistakes are more likely to happen if you are in a tight space.
You might not need all of the things that I used and you might need more, these are just the things I used. If you don't already have most of these parts it can get pretty expensive.
Things you can get just about anywhere
-Pencil and Notepad (for making your list of materials and any notes you might want to make, the pencil is also used for marking your wood for the cuts you will make)
-Cardboard
-XBOX 360 wireless controller with plug and play adapter
-Sharpie
Hardware Store
-1/2 in thick MDF (medium density fiberboard) I used a piece that was 2 ft x 4 ft
-Wood Putty
-Wood Glue
-Drill
-Dremel Tool
-Circular Saw (preferably a table saw...I had to use a hand held and its not nearly as accurate in making cuts
-Sandpaper (60 grit, 120 grit, 250 grit for dry sanding, 400 grit, 600 grit, and 1500 grit for wet sanding)
-1-1/8 in Hole Saw for making holes for the arcade stick and buttons
-Hot glue gun and glue
-Safety Glasses
-Respirator (might sound funny until you inhale a mouthful of sawdust or primer)
-24 in Quick-Clamp
-Primer Paint
-Clear Coat Paint (I used a spray can of Polyurethane)
Electronics
-Soldering Iron (I used a 25 watt Iron)
-Desoldering Bulb and/or Desoldering Braid
-Helping Hands (indispensable for soldering)
-Spiral cord wrap
-Tamper Proof #8 Torx Bit
-22 gauge Stranded Wire (I used three different colors to make connections easier to identify)
Arcade Parts
-9 Happ competition buttons (personal preference for this project)
-1 Happ Competition arcade stick (again personal preference for this project)
*DISCLAIMER* If you use other arcade parts there might be some differences in hooking them up and they might not work the same way as I describe in this tutorial.
Links for Arcade Parts:
Suzo Happ Group
Lizard Lick Amusement
You might not need all of the things that I used and you might need more, these are just the things I used. If you don't already have most of these parts it can get pretty expensive.
Things you can get just about anywhere
-Pencil and Notepad (for making your list of materials and any notes you might want to make, the pencil is also used for marking your wood for the cuts you will make)
-Cardboard
-XBOX 360 wireless controller with plug and play adapter
-Sharpie
Hardware Store
-1/2 in thick MDF (medium density fiberboard) I used a piece that was 2 ft x 4 ft
-Wood Putty
-Wood Glue
-Drill
-Dremel Tool
-Circular Saw (preferably a table saw...I had to use a hand held and its not nearly as accurate in making cuts
-Sandpaper (60 grit, 120 grit, 250 grit for dry sanding, 400 grit, 600 grit, and 1500 grit for wet sanding)
-1-1/8 in Hole Saw for making holes for the arcade stick and buttons
-Hot glue gun and glue
-Safety Glasses
-Respirator (might sound funny until you inhale a mouthful of sawdust or primer)
-24 in Quick-Clamp
-Primer Paint
-Clear Coat Paint (I used a spray can of Polyurethane)
Electronics
-Soldering Iron (I used a 25 watt Iron)
-Desoldering Bulb and/or Desoldering Braid
-Helping Hands (indispensable for soldering)
-Spiral cord wrap
-Tamper Proof #8 Torx Bit
-22 gauge Stranded Wire (I used three different colors to make connections easier to identify)
Arcade Parts
-9 Happ competition buttons (personal preference for this project)
-1 Happ Competition arcade stick (again personal preference for this project)
*DISCLAIMER* If you use other arcade parts there might be some differences in hooking them up and they might not work the same way as I describe in this tutorial.
Links for Arcade Parts:
Suzo Happ Group
Lizard Lick Amusement
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
I added the 10 ohm resister and tested ..... worked LT and RT.....but x,y,a,& b are not responsive in gameplay, but works in the menu section.
Note: when I go in button config and press the buttons x,y,a,or b nor does LB or RB they do not light up as if I was going to change them/ used as a 2nd test to confirm that the buttons were not working during gameplay. ALL LISTED BUTTON ABOVE WORKED B4 ADDING TEH TRIGGERS !
?: Could this be a grounding issue ?, has anyone else had this issue or am I over looking something!?
awesome build.congrats.was just wondering how u mount the joystick.do u have to router?
Edit * I have now solved the shoulder button issue. Help would be appreciated on the other two regarding the triggers and power component.
Incidently, do you know how it will affect the pcb if you accidently solder to the wrong via, and in trying to get the wire out, leave a tiny amount of wire inside? Im assuming (hoping) that this wont be very problematic as it has no connection?
Someone??......anyone??.....perleeeease??