Xbox 360 Arcade controller - Project Gyokusho

Step 8 All done

With everything in place, I plugged it into my PC, made sure that the right key reacted when I pressed it and luckily, everything did.

I added a latch so that the bottom of the contraption would stay shut when it was on the table and then it was done.

Future expansions
I have been thinking of warm-glueing some optic cables to the LEDs that show you which controller number you have, drilling some holes around the Guide-button and then sit back and watch the pretty lights but I probably won't bother. It's actually quite nice to have a controller that doesn't glow.

Some day I will implement the LT/RT, after all it's just to put a resistor of some appropriate size on one cable and then have one cable that leads to the ground and there you would have eliminated the potentiometer but I just can't be bothered. It's quite good enough as it is.

Some of you may have noticed that I had drawn Playstation-symbols on the controller, that's because I'm thinking of going for a dual-system kinda thang. Perhaps some rainy day I'll do that.

Comments

[thrgimmie]

Very Nice!! I didn't see anything about your joysticks, did you just use the xbox parts???

[Pocket Universe]

I honestly don't understand your question, soldering the stick was exactly the same as soldering the buttons.

[thrgimmie]

I am curious where you got the joysticks, and my first question was whether you used new joysticks or kept the pair that come on the controller.

[Pocket Universe]

There are no joysticks on the controller, I bought an 8-way joystick and applied it the same way as I did with the buttons. I bought it at some online store. Ebay ought to work as well.

[logicbox]

is there a chance you could please post a close up pic of the circuit board finished, front and back? before i jump in and start soldering i want a clear image of where i need to solder and all that.

[Pocket Universe]

You already have a good image on step 8, that one really gives you a good overview. However, if it's unclear how you should solder everything, I'd recommend that you'd practice your soldering skills a bit before attempting this. It's not a very hard project, but if you've never worked with electronics before, it might be quite daunting.

[ddukesterman]

I dont see anywhere in here where it says anything about resistors or anything for the LT or the RT. if possible, what are the specs on the resistor u used??

[Pocket Universe]

I omitted the triggers, the instructions on how to measure and replace the potentiometers are all in the instructible.

[achild]

Can you send me a link or something explaining how to implement the RT and LT buttons? I cant find it and I'm trying to get those working on mine, but I guess u need some kind of diode or something to get it working? I emailed Happ thinking the buttons were defective! :( Thanks!

[Pocket Universe]

It's all explained in my instructible, you'll have to replace the potentiometer with a set of resistors which match the different depressions of the potentiometer. Try a multimeter to get the right size ones.

[spunky424]

what dimensions was your woodworking box?

[Pocket Universe]

Approximately huge*large =)

It's roughly 50*90*12cm.

[similac95]

has anyone wired up the left and right triggers? not to sure how to do that. any info would be greatly appreciated.

[Pocket Universe]

As stated in the instructible, they're just potentiometers. Measure their resistance both when the trigger is released and when it's pressed and substitute the potentiometer with a few resistors instead.

[Shin-Gouki]

Good Job. However as someone who has been in the Arcade Business for going on 19 years, and has made these since the Super Nintendo I have a couple of suggestions for if and when you build another. 1) Always use a 3rd Part Controller. Not only will it cost less, but the black coating you found will not be there and you can solder right on it. I just rebuilt a Street Fighter Anniversary Joystick using a Mad Catz (Gamestop) Controller and it worked great. I would stay away from Pelican as I have had bad results (They also make controllers for Gamestop). 2) You do not need to have a separate Ground for each Button/Direction on the PCB. If you have one ground and daisy chain them that is all you need. No need to do all that extra soldering. Again looks great!!

[Pocket Universe]

Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely try that next time around. Regarding the unnecessary grounds, I did try to trace the ground connectors but the PCB was such a mess that it was absolutely impossible to see which wire went where. In the end, the quickest solution was to just go with two wires per button as trying to measure my way to a common ground just took too damn long.

[Spokehedz]

The easiest way to find out where GND is located is to take your DMM and put it to Contunity and start making things beep.

If one pad makes the controller and the buttons work--you've found ground.

However, your method works just fine--it just requires a bit more soldering. Don't fix what ain't broke!

I am going to be doing something very similar for a Wii controller here soon. Classic controller + SNES/NES/TG16/NeoGeo VC games = Crappy

[Pocket Universe]

I did try to do it that way too but when I plugged it all in, something always went wrong, that's why I did two cables per button. I can't explain why I failed, I gues I was just a bit more stupid than usual that day :-) I'd love to see what you do with the Wii-controller, especially how you solve the power-issue, not needing a battery would be great.

[Shin-Gouki]

No Problem, I just know that the common ground works from when I was young and foolish and just jumped into things (IE made my first one 15 years ago) and didn't bother with things like tracing :) Voice of EXP and all that. Again great final product, I myself just rebuilt my Xbox 1 Street Fighter stick into a 360 one.