Cold Cathode Fluorescent Tubes emit a beautiful glow at night, and this instructable serves to document the process of installing two 4 inch CCFL tubes to the side vents of an Xbox 360.

I believe the results of custom lighting are worth voiding a Xbox 360s warranty, which dismantling the casing will do. Though working on the innards of a $300 piece of electrical equipment, this mod doesn't require much soldering skill, however patience to do the job correctly is a must.

I hope you complete this instructable and can light up night after night of gaming!

**** Disclaimer ****
I am not liable for any damages or injuries that occur from following the instructions of this tutorial. Opening a Xbox 360 will void the Microsoft provided warranty, and there are capacitors and other electrical components that can cause electrical shock. Though it is highly unlikely you will be harmed by the innards of your Xbox 360, be aware that the use of a soldering iron and hot glue gun can be harmful to human skin. Use caution, use common sense, and have a fun time completing this mod

Step 1: Parts Listing

Soldering Iron
Any cheap heat based soldering iron can complete this mod, I used a 15 watt Radioshack iron.

I suggest .022" Silver Rosin Core Solder for easy flow and solid connections. Can be purchased at a local Radioshack.

Dual 4" Cold Cathode Kit
The main colors to choose from are red, green, or blue. CCFLs require an inverter to step up the voltage to light up the tube, going from a 12 volt source to 680 volts into the tubes. Any kit will come with an inverter, tubes, and switch.

Here are some sites for purchasing the tubes. I have used all of these sites whenever I need CCFLs to shop around for prices, my favorite is MountainMods.com linked below. You can purchase R,G,B from most of them, while more unusual colors (UV, Yellow, Pink) may cost more due to lower demand.

MountainMods has been around for awhile, and has excellent prices on CCFLs in every color. I recommend you seek them out first for their price, selection, and service. Here is their CCFL page.
MountainMods.com Cold Cathodes

Other Sites to Browse:
Dual Blue Kit - Xoxide.com $5.00 + $3.00 shipping
Dual Near-Ultraviolet (UV) Kit - Xoxide.com $8 + $3.00 shipping
Dual Green Kit - Frozencpu.com $10 + $6-8 shipping (Ripoff price)
Dual Red Kit - MountainMods.com - $6 + $4-6 shipping

***Note, I'm not sure what has happened in the past year or so, but it's becoming really hard to find Dual CCFL kits that aren't a complete ripoff (i.e. Above $7 for both Dual 4" and 12" kits). If the links on this page die, since retailers update their urls and deactivate items, find your own kits through google. I've bought over 50 CCFL kits, no matter where I buy them from, they are all the exact same tubes and inverters (Some places, like Oznium.com which I do not reccommend, put new boxes on the inverters, which doesn't make a difference), a higher price does not mean higher quality.***

Electrical Tape
Vinyl electrical tape, the thicker the better. Used to hold wires together and shrink the inverter.

Diagonal Cutters
Used to crack the outer acrylic tube on the CCFLs, we will need the fragile glass tubes by themselves to fit inside of the Xbox 360.

Hacksaw / Flathead Screwdriver
The cubes at the end of each CCFL hold the acrylic tube onto the glass tube. Sometimes they can be twisted off with some force, but usually the cube will need to be cut and cracked open with a flathead screwdriver.

Knife or Wire Strippers
We will use the wire that comes with the CCFL kit, it is 20 AWG (gauge) wire, large enough to be easily handled, able to withstand the stresses of being put inside a Xbox 360. Stripping will be for the very tips that will be soldered to the 360 motherboard.

Hot Glue Gun & Glue Sticks
Holds the CCFLs in place, along with any stray wires.

Step 2: Disassembly

I have created a separate instructable for dismantling a Xbox 360 which can be found at this link.

Once you have disassembled the 360 down to removing the motherboard, continue to the next step.

Step 3: Prepping the CCFLs

There are photos for each step below, they will help immensely in following the guide.

Test the CCFLs
These tubes are designed to be run inside of a computer desktop. Plug the CCFLs into the inverter, and the switch/molex connector into your computer as seen in the picture below. Press the power button on your computer and flick the switch, they should both light up. Though in the pictures I have the tubes appear orange, to the human eye they appear a very rich red.

Shrink the Inverter
The inverter that should come with your kit is contained within a blue plastic shell. This box is too large to fix comfortably inside of a Xbox 360, so we will pop it apart and wrap the internals of the inverter with electrical tape. Get either a small flat-head screwdriver, a knife, or any small metal object and jam it into the four dents in the bottom of the inverter. The cover is loosely held on, just take the board out and wrap it with electrical tape.

Cut the Cable
With the kit is a switch on a metal plate, and wires from a molex connector into the inverter. We only need the connector that goes directly into the inverter and the full length of its wires. You can trash the switch and molex connector.

Removing Acrylic Cover *UPDATED* (Thanks to SwampFox89)
Some users have commented to me a new method for detaching the cubes from the cold cathodes. Place your CCFLs inside your freezer for around two hours, this will cause the adhesive that holds on the cubes (and very little adhesive is used anyways) to harden and lose it's strength. Take out the CCFLs, and with either a firm grip or some pliers, the cubes should turn and pop off. You should be able to slide both cubes and the tube off the inner glass CCFL. If the cube on the wire end remains stuck, or you can't break off the glue, see the OLD method below. Treat the glass very carefully, as it is thin and easy to break.

Removing Acrylic Cover *OLD*
These CCFLs are actually fragile glass tubes, to protect them from wear and tear they are each covered with an acrylic tube anchored on the ends by two glued cubes. We need the glass tube by itself to fit inside of the Xbox 360, so this acrylic cover must be removed.

You only need to remove the cube on the wired side of the tube. Use a hacksaw to saw along the cube until you can fit a flathead screwdriver into your cut, turn the screwdriver and the cube should crack off.

With a pair of clippers, cut the acrylic tube carefully. Do not force the clippers deep into the tube, when you squeeze you might crack the glass, instead clip the edge of the acrylic and it will shoot a crack down the length of the tube, cut a circle around the edge and remove the main chunk. Carefully remove the remaining pieces and glue with your fingers.

Repeat for both tubes, they are very fragile and must be handled with care.

Step 4: Soldering to the Motherboard

The CCFLs need a power source from the Xbox motherboard, on the underside of the motherboard where the power connector plugs into the Xbox 360 are many different voltage sources. This layout is identical across all Xbox 360s. For the numbers printed on the board Pin 4 is the 12 volt supply, and Pin 9 is the Negative. Keep the 360 unplugged until told to test the connection.

Tinning and Soldering
Tinning is the process of applying solder to two separate surfaces, then in one act without applying extra solder bonding those two surfaces. Measure off around 7-8 inches of wire for both the red and black wires going into the inverter. Strip a small amount of sheathing and apply an excessive amount of solder to the end of each wire.

Applying solder to the Xbox 360 pins is a different story, Microsoft uses lead-free industrial solder which melts at a very high temperature. Apply a large amount of solder as best you can to the pins, feel free to hold your soldering iron on each pin for awhile, they can take the heat. Solder the red wire to the number 4 pin (shown in picture as 12v supply) and the black wire to pin 9. Test the physical strength of these connections by pulling on them, if the solder joint is easily broken, hold the soldering iron on longer until that joint is solid.

Even though the Xbox 360 is disassembled without fans, you can still plug in the cable and turn it on for a few seconds. I'll add in a note of extra caution, players usually get banned from Xbox Live for playing improperly copied games, however booting your system with the power cable not in the DVD drive is cause for suspicion, and could result in a ban. With your wires soldered on, plug the connector into the inverter, the CCFLs into the inverter, and press the power button. When your 360 turns on so should the CCFLs. Be sure not to leave the 360 on for very long without fans running as you can overheat the CPU.

Hot Glue Insulation
As a protective measure, put a blob of hot glue over each soldered point. This will keep the connection from rubbing against the bottom of the steel chassis, and keep the 12v and ground wires from touching.

Re-insert the Motherboard
You can now place the motherboard back into the 360 steel chassis, and align the wires along the back corner of the casing. Make sure the wires emerge from the rear edge of the motherboard (not the side) so that the casing screws are still aligned.

Step 5: Placing CCFLs

Use electrical tape to bind up the excess wire you may have, and the picture below shows where the inverter and wire will sit.

Number One
The first CCFL will be located on the right side of the 360 (opposite where the DVD drive sits). Get a sharpie or other marker, and mark on the side of the steel chassis the white ends of the CCFL. Hot glue will go over the white plastic, as the glass tube itself can melt the hot glue and will fall off the case.

Place a large amount of hot glue onto your markings, and place the CCFL down into the blob, then apply glue on top as well, completely surrounding the white end with glue. The Xbox 360 should be on its side while the glue dries, once it is relatively solid you can move on.

Number Two (DVD Drive)
This is the most dangerous part of the install. The CCFL just barely fits in-between the leftmost legs of the DVD Drive, it is possible to crush the tube when reinserting the DVD drive. Seat the drive into the 360 as it would normally sit. From above, hold your CCFL over the gap and mark the ends. View the picture below for a better idea.

Like the first tube, glue the second CCFL to the side of the steel chassis with the DVD drive removed.

Step 6: Positioning Wires

For the CCFL in the DVD drive gap, its wire will go downward, and along the forward edge to plug into the inverter. You can pour hot glue on the motherboard without issue, as hot glue does not conduct electricity - we will use it to keep the wires from moving around.

Beware of Screws!
When placing the wires throughout the case, make sure they stay away from screw holes. When putting the case back together, if a screw cuts through a wire (which it can do easily) it will act as a ground and prevents electricity from flowing through the tube. The CCFL will either flicker or not turn on, and if the wire is severed you may need to solder it back together.

Step 7: Reassembly

Put the Xbox 360 back together carefully. Make sure the rear fan is plugged in, the fan shroud is correctly in place, and no wires are being pinched. When placing the DVD drive back into the case you might need to wiggle the CCFLs wires to fit in safely (Don't forget the SATA cable).

Follow the disassembly directions backwards, and if everything turns on, kudos! Enjoy your newly lit Xbox 360.

If you're still feeling adventurous in your Xbox 360, try modifying the Ring of Lightor cutting a window.

What is the impact of using a 30 watt iron versus 15? Are there any places on the board (that you know of) where a 15 watt needs to be used? Finally, why .022 solder and not a simpler one like .02. Thanks
<p>Using a 30 watt iron will heat the terminal very quickly, so quickly it can detach from the PCB. 15W for traces and terminals, 30W for wires and pins. The 15 can do both, but the power pins where the PSU connects can take a long longer. For the wire diameter, 0.2 is fine, 0.22 is just a more common wire diameter sold in hobby stores.</p>
Hey, this question is a little off, but maybe you would still know about it. I was using my soldering iron to solder the circuit board of an xbox 360 drive onto a different drive. And I didn't realize that it was set to 895 degrees. So when I desoldered one point, all of the solder came off, leaving only a brown spot on the motherboard. When I try to solder a new wire onto that particular point, it won't stay put. Have I permanently damaged the board, or is there a possible solution to this?
You have permanently removed the terminal, it is never coming back. With that said, you can very carefully solder directly to a trace on the board, by scraping off the outer PCB (green) coating and tinning the trace.<br> <br> I've written about this in one of my other Instructables:<br> <br> <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Wireless-Controller-Ring-of-Light/step5/How-to-Fix-Broken-Terminals/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Wireless-Controller-Ring-of-Light/step5/How-to-Fix-Broken-Terminals/</a>
Would the xbox need another cooling method because of the cathode lights?
I have a question regarding soldering to the motherboard.<br><br>I have purchased these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PVC-2-x-24cm-Blue-Car-LED-Light-Flexible-strip-12V-/270755022303?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;vxp=mtr&amp;hash=item3f0a41c5df#ht_4407wt_1093<br><br>and I was wondering, can I solder the strips to different terminals?<br><br>e.g Strip 1 goes on (4,9) and strip 2 goes on (5,10).<br><br>Oh and I was thinking of running both strips to a master switch, but my searches on Google have been fruitless. <br><br>So do you where I could get a master switch which I could wire 2 strips to?<br><br>Thank you so much for all your help, and BTW your Instructable on the controller ring of light was excellent for me (I made two nub mistakes, I soldered one LED the wrong way around (Derp), and accidentally ruined a terminal on P3, hence your solder bridge method was well- received) It works great now.<br><br><br>
Yes, you absolutely can run your wiring using the two sets of terminals. If you're going to use a switch, I think it's easier to just use one terminal (picture attached). All of the pins are actually connected to pins of the same color.<br> <br> As far as switches, I recommend not using a switch, since the lights will power on or off with your 360 anyways. If you are committed to using a switch,&nbsp;just drive to your local electronics store or Radioshack. They're overpriced, but they have a good selection. You would probably want a small but long cylinder button-switch for compactness sake, maybe just having the button pop out through a side vent-hole near the HDD or something.<br> <br> I've made a picture for you on how to wire this up if you want a switch. It would work just fine without the button too.<br> <br> Good luck!
Would 6 inch Cold Cathode lights work? ther eare a few dual ccl kits on ebay but they are all 6&quot; kits.
4&quot; barely fits, if you use 6&quot;, you'll have to place them somewhere else in the box, and there isn't much room.<br> <br> I have links on the parts page that lists multiple sellers that sell 4&quot; kits. 6&quot; is normally much more rare than 4&quot; or 12&quot;.<br> <br> <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Cold-Cathode-Lighting/#step1">Link to Step One</a>
Just out of interest, which model of xbox 360 do you have??<br><br>It has been such a long time since I saw a white one......<br><br>BTW, both look very cool (plus points for using portal). They must garner a few approvals when you switch them on at night.<br><br>When you buy those CCFLs, do all those parts come with it? By which I mean, the Dual CCFLs, the inverter, and the wires (or all the parts in the first picture of step one:parts list)<br><br>Thankyou in advance for any reply, you are just too awesome.
Awhile back, maybe a year, I tried installng four CCFLs, well they shorted out and started pouring smoke out the back of the 360 to my horror (note, don't allow two different CCFL inverter lines to touch the same metal plate =P).<br> <br> After that I swapped out all of the CCFLs for about 4 meters of insulated 5mm LED ribbons. Basically, I crammed about 150 LEDs into the box, the LEDs are always on, and it is extremely bright, perhaps too bright.<br> <br> A CCFL kit contains everything (tubes, wiring, inverter, velcro stickies), just CCFLs will be tubes. Here is a picture of the 360 as it is today. Sorry, horrible iPhone camera picture, but it will do.
Ah, well, sorry to hear about the short circuit. The new LEDs still look great, although you are right, their true form is not really shown in the photo, due to the deficiencies in the iPhone camera.<br><br>But I must ask you some questions, and once again I thank you from the bottom of my heart for any reply.<br><br>Who is your preferred merchant of the LED strips?<br><br>Do you know why on the PCB, where you presumably connected the LEDs, there are 3 extra positive 12V connectors, and 2 extra negatives? Oh, and is the 12V supplied through these terminals AC or DC?<br><br>Wait, did you also replace the blue CCFLs in your other xbox 360?
So, for the first question. why are there multiple 12v and ground lines? Most of the circuitry is connected via traces, which as you can tell, are less than 1mm in thickness. The thickness of a &quot;wire&quot; has a large effect on how much electricity can pass through it. Too much electricity through a wire, especially one as thin as some of these traces, and you can get a) interference, basically electrons hopping off the sides of the wire, which causes the ICs to go haywire b) damage to a trace, the wire can actually burn through, but that requires a ton of juice, and c) extra stress on all the circuitry, which wears everything down faster, especially the PSU. So more lines means more ways &nbsp;to distribute the load. It's also done for the simplicity of wiring everything on the PCB. Yeah... simple....<br> <br> For the second question, they run on DC. Almost all small electronics run on DC. AC is great because of its ability to transmit electricity long distances. Once it gets to your home, power adapters are used to convert to DC, and voltage massively drops, such as from 120v AC to 12v DC. If it's low, as in below 20v, it's probably DC.<br> <br> Third question, yes, the Companion Cube box has had its blue CCFLs also replaced with LEDs. It's currently on loan to a friend so I can't snag a picture.<br> <br> Finally, my preferred merchant. I <strong>only </strong>buy LEDs from eBay, Honk Kong manufacturers are so insanely cheap and they sell direct to the consumer through eBay. It's the difference between paying $0.80 for a Luxeon 3W, and $7 from an American distributor. The only thing you're selecting between is price really, shipping is always run through the same channels (three week shipping though...) since every LED seller I've seen has been from Hong Kong.<br> <br> For the LED waterproof strips, I usually buy through <a href="http://motors.shop.ebay.com/winterlamlam/m.html">winterlamlam</a>, Good golly, a 120cm 5mm strip for $9? Great prices.<br> <br> Hope that helps, enjoy!
Wow, thank you.<br><br>Ok so if I wanted an orange glow from my LEDs (I am going to attempt a Gears of War Case), would you recommend either the red LED strip, or the yellow LED strip?<br><br>Honestly you are so much more informative than anyone else I have talked to on this subject, it really is astounding to me how knowledgeable you are on the subject.<br><br>And yeah, 3 weeks is a fair time for postage, but at it is free of charge!
Don't get yellow, it won't look yellow, more similar to the color you see on a blinking router or ethernet status light. No good chemical combo has been found for orange LEDs yet that is cheap to manufacture. I recommend just getting a red insulated 5mm LED strip, you should be able to cram a 120cm in there, will take a bit of squishing though. To put it simply, orange isn't an option, because cameras lie and I have yet to see an orange LED that is accurate.<br> <br> The colors you get to choose from, are: Red, Blue, Green, Ultra-Violet, and White. For being able to tell how much a camera lies, look at the color of the light, then look at the color of light it is casting around it. In the attached picture, the blue CCFLs look kind of indigoish, but they are more accurately the deep aquamarine you see cast. Same for the reds, they aren't orange, they're vivid red. It's not that people run photoshop tricks, it's just that the CCDs of cameras have a very different range of sensitivities to color than human eyes.<br> <br> So... red.
Ah, so would I be able to use these?<br><br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-2-x-30cm-Flexible-Under-Car-LED-Strip-Neon-Light-/280684993247?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;vxp=mtr&amp;hash=item415a211adf#ht_4209wt_1078<br><br>I was also wondering where abouts inside the metal casing you installed the leds.<br><br>Did you install any between the dvd drive and the metal casing?<br><br>I am really going to try this for myself, and your expertise would be appreciated once again.
Those would work, I personally don't like them. I've tried working with them, and trying to bend them at all results in a tear, and then it's useless. I bought two 30cm strips, and I broke both within minutes. They are only meant to be placed on flat surfaces in straight strips, or side-walls with a gentle curve, which is hard to pull off in the 360.<br> <br> I personally use the 5mm waterproof strands. Because it has a rubberized coating, it's just crammed in there, along the sides of the DVD drive and over the capacitors near the right side. Really, just shove it in anywhere. They aren't sticking to any material, they are just freely sitting in the box, I got lazy I suppose...
for the red rings on aperture science case i think i might mistake it for rrod
dude your the best, i finished the project over a weekend. It was quite fun!
I was able to use a normal sized CCFL by heating it up on a gas stove(pen torch or a candle would probably be the best) and bending it into a right angle.
Why not just desolder the wires from the switch so you get the most wire possible and you get a switch usable for another project.
Switches cost $0.05 when bought in a package of 100 off eBay. I don't need a ton of wire for soldering the CCFLs to the 12v power pin underneath the motherboard, I cut off nearly half the wire anyways. Besides, when doing an install, I use far higher quality switches than the junk ones provided by CCFLs.
I just bought a 4 colour fan for like $5 from Newegg I'm going to install on the exterior of my Xbox because I can't find one that lights up and fits in the Xbox. Although I could put a fan in and then the CCFL's. I am going with a green theme, what sucks is that green fans aren't as popular as blue and red so they are a bit harder to find more of a variety of.
Finally got around to finishing this, did what awz123 said with the bic tubes had<br>no problems with it. I dont like the placement of the center cathode and will most likely get around to changing it. But all in all this 'ible and the window one really helped alot as well as the disassembly one. Thanks !<br><br>Hope you can see the xbox, i turned the lights off to show off the cathodes but it doesnt show the window too well...
Your case turned out pretty nice, rounded rectangular windows are the standard but allow for full view of the system. For your camera, try lengthening the shutter speed, increasing the ISO setting, and increasing the exposure to have a more clear photo. Did you remove your DVD drive casing? That's a pretty unusual thing to do, nice work!
Thanks, i actually started off with two smaller rectangles like yours but there was an uneven cut in the center strip of plastic so i decided to go with the bigger rectangle. And yeah i did i just liked the looked of seeing the entire drive.
Hey, can you tell me if this will work in a...DRUM SET?! Wso whenever I play it pulses?!?!?!
Yes, if you plug your cold cathodes to their inverter with a microphone adapter (They are ~$6), sound will cause your cold cathodes to turn on. There is a sensitivity knob, to adjust it from turning on from the volume of speech, all the way to requiring heavy bass. I have some CCFLs zip tied to the underside of my table, with the microphone near my home theater subwoofer. Whenever there is bass, my table glows.
Ok thanks! But Im not very good at electronics. I can barely afford it. No one can do anything about that, though. Where is it cheapest to buy these things?
I mean it it will set off the other lights than the right ones. You know what Im sayin right?
CCFL Sound Reactive Microphone: http://www.xoxide.com/cocasoackit.html ($6 per microphone).<br> 12&quot; CCFLS: http://www.xoxide.com/coldcathodes.html ($8 per kit).<br> <br> Cheapest place I've found to purchase CCFLS ($6 per kit): http://www.mountainmods.com/cold-cathodes-c-51.html<br> <br> However, those are two different sites, with two different shipping charges. If you can't afford it, save your money for a month or two.<br>
Are the microphones sensitivity adjustable? Because when I play the other drums it might set off the lights.
Would there be any way that I could put in the cold cathodes without getting rid of the protective casing? for some reason i'm paranoid about one of these tubes breaking and $5 going down the drain. would a clear bic pen work as a protecting agent?
Actually, that's a brilliant idea! Yes, I believe a BIC pen with the clear casing taking off, and placed over the CCFL would work just fine. Just glue the BIC casing to the white tape at one of the ends of the CCFL. I may edit your idea into the guide for others who have similar concerns. Thanks for the input.
The casing works great, and will look good in my 360. I uploaded some pics so others can see, if you want you can use them as well (if you put it in the 'ible).<br>Thanks for the great Project.
Great 'ble did the window cutting one first, and cut a big window and cut the dvd drive <br>Now I'm just waiting for the cold cathode's to arrive, I'll definately post some pictures once im done !
hi just bought some UV cathodes for my xbox. i also bought a toggle switch with a Jet Fighter like Safety Cover. [Has three connections] What i wanna know is, can i somehow wire the cathodes to the switch so i can turn it on and off again? sorry if it's a noob question, tis just i don't know much about wiring switches :/ thanks for a great tut btw!
I've never seen a blue one, looks awesome. As far as a switch, it is unbelievably simply. So there are always two wires, a positive and negative. Just pick a wire, cut, one end goes to one terminal, the second end to the other terminal. If you break the electricity on either the positive or negative wire, the circuit will be broken and power disconnected.<br> <br> For the cold cathodes, you could take the red wire going to the 12v pin, cut it, one end to terminal 1, the other to terminal two.<br> <br> With three connections, you can make it that both directions on the switch do something. This matters more for monitoring, so the third would be connected and say, &quot;heya, the switch is disconnected/on&quot;, so don't worry about it.<br> <br> Enjoy!<br>
Thanks Man, it works like a charm! If you want i'll upload some pics or something when it's finished...
That would be great, I'd love to see how it turns out.
As far as i can tell, that is a light up switch, i have one of them, it is still a spst switch but the third one enables you to light up the top of the switch
So.... took me ages :/ <br> <br>But it's finally done and here's some photos. <br> <br>The picture is a geisha and was reverse-engraved on the plexi. The window was laser cut and i broke 2 cathodes..... &gt;.
I wish i had a laser cutter..... :'( <br>I have a dremel, but something about laser cutters...
The RF Module LED's are Purple and the CCFLs are UV Purple, they make all the molex connectors, electrical tape and anything white glow, half of my room of a night is this amazing blueish purple color ;D
That looks absolutely amazing, it puts my box to shame. I like the cuts on the DVD drive casing as well. I wish I had myself a laser cutter. Extremely well done!
Oh ok thanks, i went with a different switch as the other one was way too bulky :/
This may be a dumb question, but how would I do this but with a sound reactive thing? I want to be able to have It pulseing to my music, you know?
That's very easily done through purchasing a sound reactive microphone. They are available from CCFL shops for anywhere from $3-6. It attaches to the power cord just like an inverter would, only there is a dial for sensitivity to sounds. It tends to be more activated by low-midrange sounds (1khz-4khz).<br> <br> Here is a quick link I found from Xoxide, they tend to be more expensive, and have them for $6 each: <a href="http://www.xoxide.com/cocasoackit.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.xoxide.com/cocasoackit.html</a><br> <br> Enjoy.<br>
Could this be applied to your CCFL tube(https://www.instructables.com/id/Cold-Cathode-Light-Tube/) as well? I just got a new stereo, and was thinking that this would be really cool to have some sound-reactive lighting behind it(:<br>I also have a blacklight sitting around. Would it be possible to wire that to some sound reactive microphone?(it's almost funny saying that, since all microphones are sound reactive)

About This Instructable




Bio: I have a passion for tweaking things. Whether it be modding video game consoles, creating custom laser displays, or any creations with lights I love ... More »
More by QuackMasterDan:Tesseract Infinity Desk Power LED Light-Bar Ambient Lighting Aluminum Plate Desk with LED Illumination 
Add instructable to: