Xbox 360 Cold Cathode Lighting

Step 4 Soldering to the Motherboard

The CCFLs need a power source from the Xbox motherboard, on the underside of the motherboard where the power connector plugs into the Xbox 360 are many different voltage sources. This layout is identical across all Xbox 360s. For the numbers printed on the board Pin 4 is the 12 volt supply, and Pin 9 is the Negative. Keep the 360 unplugged until told to test the connection.

Tinning and Soldering
Tinning is the process of applying solder to two separate surfaces, then in one act without applying extra solder bonding those two surfaces. Measure off around 7-8 inches of wire for both the red and black wires going into the inverter. Strip a small amount of sheathing and apply an excessive amount of solder to the end of each wire.

Applying solder to the Xbox 360 pins is a different story, Microsoft uses lead-free industrial solder which melts at a very high temperature. Apply a large amount of solder as best you can to the pins, feel free to hold your soldering iron on each pin for awhile, they can take the heat. Solder the red wire to the number 4 pin (shown in picture as 12v supply) and the black wire to pin 9. Test the physical strength of these connections by pulling on them, if the solder joint is easily broken, hold the soldering iron on longer until that joint is solid.

Testing
Even though the Xbox 360 is disassembled without fans, you can still plug in the cable and turn it on for a few seconds. I'll add in a note of extra caution, players usually get banned from Xbox Live for playing improperly copied games, however booting your system with the power cable not in the DVD drive is cause for suspicion, and could result in a ban. With your wires soldered on, plug the connector into the inverter, the CCFLs into the inverter, and press the power button. When your 360 turns on so should the CCFLs. Be sure not to leave the 360 on for very long without fans running as you can overheat the CPU.

Hot Glue Insulation
As a protective measure, put a blob of hot glue over each soldered point. This will keep the connection from rubbing against the bottom of the steel chassis, and keep the 12v and ground wires from touching.

Re-insert the Motherboard
You can now place the motherboard back into the 360 steel chassis, and align the wires along the back corner of the casing. Make sure the wires emerge from the rear edge of the motherboard (not the side) so that the casing screws are still aligned.

Comments

[Taranis]

I have a question regarding soldering to the motherboard.

I have purchased these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PVC-2-x-24cm-Blue-Car-LED-Light-Flexible-strip-12V-/270755022303?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f0a41c5df#ht_4407wt_1093

and I was wondering, can I solder the strips to different terminals?

e.g Strip 1 goes on (4,9) and strip 2 goes on (5,10).

Oh and I was thinking of running both strips to a master switch, but my searches on Google have been fruitless.

So do you where I could get a master switch which I could wire 2 strips to?

Thank you so much for all your help, and BTW your Instructable on the controller ring of light was excellent for me (I made two nub mistakes, I soldered one LED the wrong way around (Derp), and accidentally ruined a terminal on P3, hence your solder bridge method was well- received) It works great now.

[QuackMasterDan]

Yes, you absolutely can run your wiring using the two sets of terminals. If you're going to use a switch, I think it's easier to just use one terminal (picture attached). All of the pins are actually connected to pins of the same color.

As far as switches, I recommend not using a switch, since the lights will power on or off with your 360 anyways. If you are committed to using a switch, just drive to your local electronics store or Radioshack. They're overpriced, but they have a good selection. You would probably want a small but long cylinder button-switch for compactness sake, maybe just having the button pop out through a side vent-hole near the HDD or something.

I've made a picture for you on how to wire this up if you want a switch. It would work just fine without the button too.

Good luck!

[Sanative]

This may be a dumb question, but how would I do this but with a sound reactive thing? I want to be able to have It pulseing to my music, you know?

[QuackMasterDan]

That's very easily done through purchasing a sound reactive microphone. They are available from CCFL shops for anywhere from $3-6. It attaches to the power cord just like an inverter would, only there is a dial for sensitivity to sounds. It tends to be more activated by low-midrange sounds (1khz-4khz).

Here is a quick link I found from Xoxide, they tend to be more expensive, and have them for $6 each: http://www.xoxide.com/cocasoackit.html

Enjoy.

[Valeil]

Could this be applied to your CCFL tube(http://www.instructables.com/id/Cold-Cathode-Light-Tube/) as well? I just got a new stereo, and was thinking that this would be really cool to have some sound-reactive lighting behind it(:
I also have a blacklight sitting around. Would it be possible to wire that to some sound reactive microphone?(it's almost funny saying that, since all microphones are sound reactive)

[QuackMasterDan]

I kind of doubt being able to get the blacklight to be sound-reactive, it runs on a different system than cold cathodes.

As far as the CCFL tube, yes, you can definitely throw one in there. The only downside, is how to adjust the sensitivity. The best I can think of would be to drill maybe a 1/4" hole through the acrylic tube (unbelievably carefully so you don't crack it. Step up slowly in bit sizes from 1/16 through 1/4 etc), and gripping and turning the knob with tweezers.

[Valeil]

Thanks, dude. You're like my hero, I've read most of your instructables. (hope that's not creepy)

[QuackMasterDan]

It always gladdens me to hear that others are enjoying, learning, and having fun with my instructables. Whenever I make a new invention, I like to make a guide so that others can enjoy it. Thanks for reading them all, hopefully you've gained something, or even shared the creations and your modifications with friends.

You've probably seen my slug cannon instructable, however I need to update it. I've now created a 2 1/2" barrel interchangeable barrel, that can replace the 1". We have been molding ice, plaster, and concrete slugs and using them as ammunition for the barrel. Whatever it hits, it completely obliterates.

The next guide I'll be writing should be a very easy one, a bicycle headlamp using a high-powered LED. There are already a couple of these on instructables, I just think I can write a better one, and this light will be using a 430 lumen LED overvolted to 600 lumens. That's like.... painful bright.

Below is a photo of me holding the slug cannon with its new barrel.

[bloodhoundgang1]

Theoretically, could I still do this (in terms of soldering the lights to my mobo) if I used this module to pulse my lights: http://www.xoxide.com/cocasoackit.html

[QuackMasterDan]

 Yeah, a sound reactive module would work just fine. I've used them before for the lighting of my home theater, I placed the microphone right behind my flat screen TVs speakers to light up whenever there is loud sound. It will work inside the Xbox 360, you'll probably need to turn down the sensitivity since the DVD drive and fans make a lot of noise inside the case. The sound required to activate the speaker then would need to be fairly strong, and the microphones on these modules are most sensitive to around 2-4kHz, meaning general speaking pitches of sound. Go for it, a module is only $5.

[bloodhoundgang1]

Good to know.  I plan on ordering my cathodes + the sound module here pretty soon. Hopefully I won't screw up my soldering (haven't done anything with my iron in ages...).

[SwampFox89]

Probably a dumb question, but does this stay lit as long as the xbox is plugged in, or only when the xbox is turned on and running?

[QuackMasterDan]

It depends how you define running. If the system is powered on, the CCFLs will light on. If the system is powered off however a wireless controller is plugged in via the Play n' Charge kit, the CCFLs will be on. When the battery is fully charged the 12 volt line will turn off, as well as the CCFLs. If there is no charge kit and you power the system off, the CCFLs turn off. They turn on whenever electricity is being sent on the 12 volt line from the power supply, which is used to power the main chips (downconverted in voltage for the CPU, GPU, DVD drive), and charging batteries. The system is activated on one of the weaker lines (I think its the 3 volt line), on which it is always idling, just powering the wireless board for either a button press or controller press.

For the most part, when the system is off so are the CCFLs.

[ZeroXL91]

Why do we have to tin all of the pins?

[QuackMasterDan]

So you have two metals you want to join together. Each one has a different rate of how quickly it heats up. Solder is heated to about 400 Celsius to turn molten, and it will become strongly bonded to the metals that you touch it to once they are both a high temperature. If you take two different metals and apply solder directly inbetween them, and then apply your iron, it's likely that you won't have a complete and strong bond. Solder bonds to itself much more quickly than to other metals like aluminum or copper, which is why it hardens so fast when you remove the iron. By applying solder to each component separately, to the point that it bonds to that piece of metal, when you do join the two components together, the solder will directly bond to itself, and will be much stronger. As a bonus, you often don't need to apply extra solder if its something non-delicate, it makes connecting them easier.

[ZeroXL91]

Also, on the step where we prepare the cffls, it isnt clear to me how to cut the casing, I tried a dremel....Didn't work out, lol, I broke BOTH the tubes.... (I'm stupid like that...)

[SwampFox89]

 When I did this, I didn't have a hack saw or anything other than a pocketknife that could cut. What I did was put the CCFLs and their acrylic tubes in a freezer. When that cold, the adhesive more or less quits working. Then I took two pairs of channel locks and twisted  the two cubes in opposite directions and they slid apart like they were held together by peanut butter. One cube is already on the end and will just fall off. The other end may or may not have the tube still attached but it doesn't matter because I slid the cube to the middle of the wire and broke it with the channel locks. I also imagine any blunt object could break these bad boys, with appropriate force.rip the cube apart and toss it and if the tube was attached, it's now either broke in many places or it can slide right off the wire.

I hope this helps.

Now time for me to put this mod back in mine and NOT get RRoD and break the mod in fixing the ring...

[ZeroXL91]

If I did this I never would have broken my CCFLs the first time. Wow I used my hands, it was so easy to get em off, came off like hard peanut butter :) Thanks a bunch for this method!!

[QuackMasterDan]

 That's a really neat method to crack off the cubes, I would have never thought of freezing the adhesive. Thanks for the tip. As far as RRoD, have you tried performing an x-clamp fix to fix/prevent it?

[ZeroXL91]

You have the RROD? You can try the X-clamp fix, if you want to pervent it you can do the fix and put heatsinks on the RAM chips, see here: http://www.google.com/products?q=xbox+360+ram+heatsinks&hl=en&aq=f\  I don't know alot of methods, above are the only two I know, I'm going to get those RAM chip heatsinks tommorow. Also, reffering to my question, why do we tinn all of the pins, like 1,2,3,4,5,6 ect... we are only using two right? So just tin two of them were using?

[SwampFox89]

You only tin two of them. Just the + and - The others just look tinned. Read through the beginning of step 4.

As far as RRoD goes, I had it, but I fixed it. My problem was that in the disassemble process, I had knocked one of the heat sinks loose and the xbox would overheat and shut down in a matter of seconds within boot. When I took it apart again to fix the problem, I accidentally broke the thin wire on the CCFL, and thus ruined the whole mod. I will try it again as soon as I get paid.

Can I get a link (preferrably one on instructables) to the X-Clamp fix? I've never heard of it or seen it.

[QuackMasterDan]

As an overview for the X-Clamp fix. You remove the MS-heatsinks (though a lot of repair shops only do the GPU, since that's the chip with the problems, but the CPU contributes heat to it from the side. You clean off the thermal grease with goo-gone, isopropyl alcohol, and toothpicks/gift card. You drill holes through the metal chassis where normally the eight black T8 screws go. You place M5 hex bolts through the holes, and use a series of washers to protect and lift the motherboard. You apply a proper (very tiny, for these about half a gain of rice) amount of thermal paste, and bolt down the heatsinks carefully (like changing a tire. You then overheat the GPU by keeping the DVD drive in (to trap heat), and place your fan on top of the CPU (so it doesn't shut down from overheating). 

You can purchase every single part at a trip to Lowes for about $12 (including solvents). Make sure whatever washers you get are 1mm, as 1mm off can make a difference between the fix working or not working.

Llamma.org made the first popular and newbie guide for it here: www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair/ring_of_light_x-clamp_fix.htm

Some users today criticize it as primitive compared to a hybrid fix (more complicated), but I think an X-clamp gets the job done perfectly fine. Also, don't waste any money on heatsinks for the RAM chips, they aren't the issue in the vast majority of cases. Also, never use the penny trick (which does absolutely no benefit of any kind), nor the towel trick (the excess heat damages capacitors and other parts in the box, while it may fix the GPU, within a week.

[QuackMasterDan]

I forgot to mention the parts you get accurately.

8 M5 0.80x12mm Hex Bolts
32 5mm wide (or 1/4") Steel Washers 1mm thick
16 1/4" Nylon Washers 1mm thick
Goo-Gone for the majority of thermal grease, it sort of soaks in a bit to break down Microsoft's crappy paste.
Isopropyl Alcohol, for finishing off and polishing the heat sinks and chips.
Paper Towels, and a super-soft cloth for the GPUs (like for eyeglasses or snow goggles).
Thermal Paste, either Arctic Silver 5 (which some people criticize for it's conductivity, it's great though), or a ceramic paste like Arctic Silver CMQ-22G.

This whole process is making sure that 1) The heatsink is applied evenly and with proper pressure to the GPU 2) The overheating process of the GPU will cause the solder underneath to 'sweat' to reconnect cracked wires 3) Make sure that the GPU is completely flat, so thermal expansion and contraction from being turned off and on won't crack any wires with the GPU being slightly flexed like when it is stock.

The overheating process should generally be done for about 45-50 minutes, and a cool-down time of 15 minutes. Leave the box alone while it is cooling off.

[SwampFox89]

Thanks Dan. I just got my CCFLs in the mail. Will be putting them in over the next couple weeks, depends on how exams go. I got this skin http://www.decalgirl.com/item.view/4005 and green cathodes. Would you like after pictures for your instructable?

[QuackMasterDan]

Sure, I'd love to see pictures of how it turns out, it brings me joy knowing that others have gained knowledge, skill, or great results from my tutorials. I remember vinyl skins back for my original Xbox, I found them quite the pain to get installed properly due to bubbles on the bubble-less vinyl and roughed up edges from using my thumbnail to correct mis-alignment. It still looked nicer than stock though, lets just say that today I use power tools and paint. I hope your system turns out superb.

If you'd like another 360 project to do on the theme of green, you could always modify your 360 controller LEDs to a brilliant, radioactive green (compared to the stock, dull green), or any other color combination you want @ http://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Wireless-Controller-Ring-of-Light/

[SwampFox89]

This one was actually on my next-to-do-list. I was going to do bright yellow on my black controller (collegiate colors). The problem is that with Christmas break, I work on campus and will be out of a job, so cash will be tight. I'm still getting the basics of soldering down. Thanks for the help QuackMasterDan.