Introduction: Xbox 360 Wireless Controller Ring of Light

Customize the four player indicators on your Xbox 360 wireless controller by removing the stock LEDs and replacing them with any color of your choosing. I've received a lot of requests for this guide, which will show how to dismantle and upgrade an official Microsoft controller.

***Disclaimer: I am not liable for any damage that may be caused to your property or self from following the instructions in this tutorial. Soldering irons can be very hot and cause burns, as well as possibly break your Xbox 360 controller. Opening your controller's shell will void its warranty. If you are unfamiliar with soldering I suggest you acquire some practice on blank boards before attempting this mod, as the LEDs are quite small. ***

Step 1: Supplies

The parts list for this project is small and fairly cheap.

Soldering Iron: Your generic 10-15 Watt Radioshack soldering iron, available for about $15. Though not necessary, for small projects like this I take a metal file and sharpen my soldering iron to a fine point. It will make the install much easier.

Silver Rosin Solder: Also available at Radioshack, silver solder more evenly distributes heat, and rosin creates a clean bond between two metals. Around $3.

Copper Desoldering Braid: This thin wire braid will absorb solder when placed inbetween the soldering iron and a terminal that needs to be cleaned. Necessary to create a flat base for the LED to sit on, makes the install much easier and can fix mistakes. $3.

Xbox 360 Wireless/Wired Controller: Microsoft controllers are available at any store that sells video game equipment. Retails for $50.

SMD 0603 LEDs: You can select whatever colors you wish for this mod, this instructable uses four blue 0603s. I would encourage you to purchase the brightest mcd rating you can find, the difference between a dim (120mcd) and a bright (400mcd) 0603 is around 10 cents per LED and worth the extra cost. Though you will only need four for this mod, purchase 8-10, these lights are so small you are going to lose some no matter how careful you are. Here are my recommendations from unique-leds.com

Red 500mcd, $0.33/LED (800mcd are available on eBay).
Yellow/Amber 130mcd, $0.22/LED (350mcd are available on eBay)
Blue 380mcd, $0.34/LED (800mcd are available on eBay).
Green 200mcd, $0.39/LED (1000mcd are available on eBay).
White 800mcd, $0.38/LED (2500mcd are available on eBay).

My favorite eBay sellers for LEDs are HKJE LED Lamp Center and Light of Victory Hi-Tech LED Store.

Security Torx T8H: Xbox 360 controllers have security screws, meaning there is a pin sticking out of the center of the screw that prevents a normal T8 Torx from fitting in. If you are cheap or don't want to wait, get an awl or a very small flathead screwdriver, and crack off the pin with a good whack from a hammer, letting you then use a normal Torx driver. I suggest purchasing your T8H screwdriver from Llamma.org. High Quality $7.99 and Low Quality $2.48

Tweezers: Absolutely necessary to hold the very small SMD 0603s. Try to purchase tweezers with the flattest edge you can find, round endings will cause the LED to shoot outward when you tighten around it. Around $3-5 at any local store like Walgreens.

Step 2: Dismantling the Controller

Remove the Screws
There are seven screws holding the rear shell onto the controller. Three on each side, and one underneath the bar-code sticker under the battery pack. Opening this controller will void your controller's warranty - as if it meant anything. Unscrew the seven screws and place them where you won't lose them. If you wish, stick the screws to a strip of duct tape. Just pull the rear shell from the front and it should pop off. Lift out the two rumble motors and the controller mainboard. There is no reason to remove the buttons or bumper pads, all we need is those LEDs.

Remove the Motors
The rumble motors will just get in the way of this install, and are not necessary for the controller to function. There are two wires (red=positive, black=negative) connected to a clip which is inserted into a holder. Grip the insert on the sides and wiggle it out. Be gentle, these wires are prone to breaking and you should only pull on the insert itself. If you break a wire, just solder it back together and wrap your splice in electrical tape.

Step 3: Floating LEDs

Microsoft uses a very clean process to solder the 0603 LEDs to the mainboard, there is so little solder that we have to add our own to remove the LEDs. This is a process called floating, applying excess solder to the iron, and then touching it to the terminals of the LED.

Knowledge is Power (Tips to prevent a failure)
These parts are very small and fragile, you need to take this mod slowly to complete it successfully. I am only able to complete this mod laying on my chest, as it stabilizes my arms. It is impossible to complete this mod if you are frustrated, as your adrenaline and blood pressure will cause your fingers to shake, if you need to, take a 5 minute break. The 0603 LEDs are attached to terminals on the board. A trace (the gold wire lines that connect everything together) is punched through the protective coating of the mainboard and soldered to little metal squares called terminals. Do not touch your soldering iron to these terminals for more than 2 seconds at a time. Excess heat will cause the glue holding them to the board to melt off, leaving you no where to solder your LED to. Try to only contact the terminal itself, as the protective coating covering the traces can become brown and cooked, making it very difficult to fix a light if you already removed a terminal.

Floating Procedure
Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of your iron, enough to apply to both terminals. Tap your soldering iron back and forth between the LED terminals, the goal being to have them both heated at the same time. Removing the LED should require no physical force, they will "float" away on their own when both terminals are hot. View this YouTube video to see how I do it. Once all four LEDs have been removed, put your soldering braid on top of the terminals, and press the iron on top of the braid, it will soak up any excess solder, leaving a clean terminal ready for a new LED.

YouTube Video:

Step 4: Adding the SMDs

Time to put your own colored 0603 SMDs onto the mainboard.

Polarity Problems
For these LEDs there are two ends, a positive and negative. If the LED is backwards, it simply won't turn on. If it is correctly connected it will light up when you power on the controller. Microsoft seems to like changing the markings for every 360 controller mainboard. The marking used always identifies the negative terminal. The markings I have seen are either a white circle, a green arrow (on this controller), or just the LED location (D1, D2, D3, D4). Worst come to worst, there are only two directions to install the LED, one of them will light up. In general Player 2, 3, and 4 the negatives are on the clockwise end, while Player 1 has the negative on the counter-clockwise end. Every controller seems to be different.

SMD Markings
The 0603 SMD LEDs have markings that also denote the negative terminal. I have attached a picture below showing the three markings used.

Installing Your SMD
Decide upon the LED you are going to replace. Line up the LED and grip it on the sides with your tweezers, not too hard or you can crack the LED, making that LED useless. Applying too much heat to the LED can toast the wire inside, causing it to light up very brightly and become a dud. Use short exposure times (Under 2 seconds). An oddity with this mod is some tweezers can build up a static charge that fries the LEDs, before picking them up, just tap your tweezers to a block of metal (only needs to be done once to remove the initial charge).

To install your SMD to the mainboard, apply a small dab of solder to your iron, while using the tweezers to position your LED over the terminals, solder one of the terminals correctly (usually the negative to the negative). One bond will hold it in place, making it easy to connect the other. You can now reassemble the controller (except for the motors and screws), reinsert the battery pack, and hit the power on button. Normally all four LEDs blink when you turn on a controller, hopefully it will turn on. If it doesn't, either the LED is not soldered to both terminals, is soldered backwards, or the controller isn't put back together properly (the power button can't reach the board). After each LED has been soldered, wipe off the excess solder on your iron with a wet sponge or towel. When it lights up, repeat the process for all four terminals.

Step 5: How to Fix Broken Terminals

If your controller has all four lights working, skip this step.

Some users are going to accidentally destroy a terminal, it just happens. The primary way this occurs is touching the iron to the terminal for too long, causing the glue holding it to the mainboard to melt and the terminal to flake off. The other occurance is when tapping between the terminals to float off the LED, a modder tried to push the LED off instead of letting it float away and ripped out the entire LED with terminals still attached. Here is how you fix it.

Traces
The wires on PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards) are called traces, very angled gold wires that are printed onto the board, and covered with a hard but thin plastic layer to prevent any short circuits. Whenever you see a hole punched through a board or a terminal, that trace has come through the plastic layer to make a connection. The trace is what is transmitting the electricity, and the terminal is simply an oversized and convenient location to access that power. We can tap into the trace, but the terminal cannot be reattached.

Removing the Protection
We need to remove the 0.2mm thick plastic coating over the trace that goes to our terminal. You can identify the correct trace by visually following the line that goes to the now-missing terminal. I personally use an extendable X-Acto knife (they are yellow/black and have a ton of notches, I usually buy them from hardware stores like OSH, Lowes, or Home Depot, though you can pick them up from Wal-Mart and craft stores), and very lightly scrape the blade sideways over the trace. It's better to use many light scrapes than a few medium scrapes.

Eventually, you will see the trace appear much brighter/shiny, since it is now exposed. Apply a blob of solder to your iron, and move it up and down the trace until you see some stick (the line has changed from gold-colored to silver).

Making the Connection
There are two ways to connect your LED leg to your trace.

1. The first, and my favorite, is to create a solder bridge. Solder does not heat evenly, and you can effectively drag a large amount of solder into a very-messy, but durable, wire. When solder reaches about 180-190 C, it becomes molten, and is very viscous. When it is around 150-170 C, it can still transmit heat, and be semi-stiff/slushy. We need to take advantage of this, and by applying a very large amount of solder to your LED leg, you're going to semi-rapidly drag it in the direction of the trace. Drag it in little, short bursts, near the end of how far your bridge has come. An excess of solder on the iron is necessary, to provide the extra material that will form the wire. It's ok if it is on top of the board, since that plastic layer protects all the other traces. Once you have dragged the solder bridge over to the trace, it should stick and the LED should turn on. It's annoying, and tedious, but it works.

2. The second method I only use if a trace has become truly destroyed. That the distance from where I can scrape off some of the trace and connect it to the LED leg is too large (over 1"). This is where I use a very tiny wire, anywhere from 26-30 AWG thickness. It's the same process as before, you're going to be soldering the ends of the wire to the trace and LED leg. The wire is fragile, and it's connections are fragile. Since the wire can bend and is semi-stiff, it can apply flexion and tear off the trace if you bump into it too hard. Once you get an end of your wire to stick, apply a very thin slice of electrical tape over the wire, this just keeps it from wiggling around, and helps a lot to prevent it from ever tearing off the trace.

I hope that you can get any broken LED terminals to be repaired and enjoy your lights. In almost all cases a missing terminal can be worked around with the solder bridge, I've never seen a case where the very thin wire could not tap into a power source, further down the trace if need be.

Step 6: Completion

Hopefully your controller has all four player indicators able to turn on, just reassemble your controller so that everything fits together properly. The parts are rather tight fitting, and you don't want any large gaps between the front and rear shells, the most common reason for gaps is the bumper pads and base plate (gray curve for the bottom) are misaligned.

I hope you've enjoyed this instructable and learned a lot, enjoy many nights of gaming!

Comments

author
BrianG137 made it!(author)2016-04-19

I'm using a 360 controller for android gaming and I'd like to mod the controller to have the 4 ring LEDs always on (they flash constantly when used on Android). Could someone share the approach they would take to achieve this?

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2016-04-19

The flashing simply means searching for device.

You are trying to use a 360 controller via a USB Micro adapter correct? 360 controllers use XInput, which is a custom interface system. You'll need to use another device, most commonly people use PS3 controllers because Bluetooth is a common standard.

I doubt you'll be able to get the 360 controller working with Android. Even if you can plug it in. Good luck!

author
BrianG137 made it!(author)2016-04-19

Sorry, to be more specific I'm using it on a Fire Tv 2. Wireless 360 controller with the msoft wireless receiver dongle. It works pretty flawlessly, the only exception is the blinking lights. It's enough to drive you mad seeing it out of the corner of your eye.

I originally thought about just removing those LEDs all together but I'd prefer if I could mod it to just keep them solid while the controller is on. Sound do-able?

author
BlakeW4 made it!(author)2015-09-26

I was putting leds in some controllers(newer), i started with player 3 got it to work then started player 1 couldnt get it two work and when i tested it(put the battery pack in and turned it on) the controller didnt work at all and thw motherboard gets hot to thw touch. Any idea what i did wrong?

I have done multiple contrillers before with no problem but the two that ive done this to are extremely new.

author
vali_ics made it!(author)2015-03-04

I just installed 3 custom leds but I can't make to work the second one, the blue one and now I think I destroy that socket for led.

what I can do to? I'll try to make a bridge with soldering... any ideas?

author
Ultragg made it!(author)2015-06-28

Bin everything... Not even the console can be saved anymore, sorry dude. ;(

author
CustardInc made it!(author)2015-04-23

Finished! It went surprisingly well, I don't have particularly steady hands so I wasn't expecting it to go well with such tiny LEDs! (bonus image of one on my fingernail). To anyone looking to do this, mine were 475mcd, I wouldn't go any higher since the light from player 1 is starting to bleed into the segment for players 2 and 3.

A note about the picture of the controller, the room isn't actually that dark, I had to fiddle with camera settings so you could actually see the colour, not just a white blur.

Thanks for the guide :)

DSC00623.JPGDSC00622.JPG
author
jjames007 made it!(author)2015-01-30

Is there an easy way to test the smd's without a multimeter? Thanks.

author
Xboxguy123456789 made it!(author)2014-11-06

Where are the wires for a cg2 controller, pls show. Thanks

author
KonstantinosT made it!(author)2015-01-16

check here

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/512284-high-res-controller-pcb-pics/

author
NickM3 made it!(author)2014-10-06

I attempted to solder the leds but I used a soldering gun rather than an iron :( I have a little black circle near the led now can I still use it? If so can I send it to you to get some less soldered on it?

author
jsherbondy made it!(author)2014-06-04

I made an account, just to say Thank you QMD. I followed this step by step and made my wife a sweet controller with pink LED's yesterday. I had no previous experience with soldering. again thank you.

360 ring.PNG
author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2014-06-04

Thank you so much for the thanks, I really appreciate it. The thanks is often a good motivator for me to make more instructables :-). Your controller turned out very nicely, great job!!!

author
jborchardt made it!(author)2014-01-30

After an hour of frustrating work I managed to solder on 3 out of the 5 leds that I got (I lost 2) when I turned the controller on the leds were extremely dull, almost to the point where you cant see them. Should I buy new leds or have someone else install them? if so, who?

author
cwhite49 made it!(author)2013-09-09

I looked and didn't really find an answers in the comments, but my LEDs are just as bright as the "factory" green LEDs when my rechargable battery pack is fresh; however once is loses just 1 bar of battery life the LED's dim. I have one controller with a single "factory" green LED on it still and the rest are blue, but the green LED stays bright and the others dim as battery life expires. Any ideas???

author
Pawkins made it!(author)2013-09-07

Nice work, but I have to ask, won't the top left LED only be lit? Providing you are on "pad 1" or is there a way to illuminate all 4 at the same time while using it? Sorry if I missed something here.

author
koolkiwi made it!(author)2013-08-01

Hm I wanted to do this my controller but in only 14 I really don't have experience with all this and I don't want break my controller while trying so I wanted to find someone who can. I just want the ring blue

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2013-08-01

Bah humbug! That sounds like an excuse to limit yourself! If you look at some of my other instructables, namely the desk and metal-light-plates, I had three to five Jr. High and Sr. High school students helping me do everything from etch tracings, to cut metal, to bond epoxy and yes, wire high-power LEDs.

You're right, it is possible you will damage a light or two while attempting this mod. As far as making the controller unusable, you would have to really work at destroying it -- or step on it or hit it with a hammer.

It's actually a lot of fun once you give it a shot. Don't be too afraid of the mod. If you are concerned about not knowing what you are doing, practice on some other, non-expensive equipment.

Start with soldering thicker wires together (20-24 AWG), then later small (26-30 AWG thickness) wires together, then unbonding them with a desoldering braid. Look up some guides on soldering to help yourself out. Or... ask someone to teach you. It's an uncommon skill, that isn't so uncommon. If you go to a church or community center, ask around if anyone could teach you how to solder. I've met quite a few people from my church who are glad to teach a passionate kid how to weld, do carpentry, painting, and solder - blowtorch or iron! Practice certainly helps, and think of how cool the end result will be.

I'm here if you have questions, as is the rest of the Instructables community (*hint hint*, instructables loves to teach soldering)

Do your best!

author
DIY_Enthusiast made it!(author)2012-04-05

I finished my controller and it works great with regular batteries and while plugged in, but the lights don't work at all with my play and charge battery pack or with rechargeable batteries. I think it is due to the lower voltage put out by them. Is there any way to fix this? Thanks in advance!!

author
stang0522 made it!(author)2012-03-31

i did this to one of my controllers and swapped the green leds for red and couldnt bet happpier with the result. and this is where my question comes it.... i tried putting blue ones in a different controller and when i was done it lit up but was extremely dim. so i took it apart and checked the solder points and they were all ok. so i put the battery pack in and turn it on while it was apart and they were still very dim but as soon as i touched the soldering iron to them they got very bright? do you know why that is? are they defective LEDs or what?

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2012-03-31
There are a few issues related to this.
  • The new 360 wireless controllers are more energy efficient. Basically, they have less power than the old controllers, and don't power green, white, blue, or UV  LEDs as well.
  • Soldering irons usually have three pins (grounded). If it's plugged into a two-plug socket or extension cord, electricity builds up in the iron.
  • If the LEDs get too hot, the gap of the P-N junction (ultra tiny split inside the LED) sparks making a bunch of light and frying the LED. Don't use an iron any higher than 15W, and don't hold any iron to the LED more for than ~1.5-2 seconds.
I hope that clears things up a little.
author
stang0522 made it!(author)2012-03-31

See that would make sense because I was trying to do it on a newer controller, but then switch to and tries changing them on an older one and had the same problem, it doesn't matter what color I try they air dimmer than they should be. The only color that lights up correctly is red. Could it possibly be just bad LEDs?

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2012-03-31

Reds run at 1.9v.

Blue/Green/White/UV run at 3.2v.

Reds can run with much less juice than other colors. Newer controllers output much less juice for longer battery life.

author
Taranis made it!(author)2011-10-18

I have a small question for you QMD.

"Is it absolutely necessary to remove the rumble motors, or is it simply to make the mod process easier?"

BTW Portal case looks amazing.

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-10-18

You shouldn't need to remove the rumble motors, you can just branch off the positive LED to the resistor of your LED. Seems rather stupid that any guide would remove the entire rumble function just for some lights (though lights are most certainly awesome). Here is a crudely drawn diagram that should explain the layout.

Untitled-1.jpg
author
Taranis made it!(author)2011-10-19

Ah, my apologies.

You, rather kindly, have slightly overestimated how experienced I am in this field of modding.

I am incredibly new to this, and all I wanted to know was that if it was possible to reattach the rumble motors after you removed them during the process of changing the ring of light leds.

However thank you so much for your rapid reply, and for your links and preferences with regard to LED sellers, esp Hi-Tech LED Store.

Unfortunately uniqueLEDS' shipping cost was slightly too much, so I settled for these, BTW I live in the UK.

http://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350361893227&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:1123


author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-10-19

Yes, you can put the rumble motors back in after replacing the 0603 LEDs, taking them off is just for ease of construction, and to prevent possible damage to the fragile wires.

My picture was if you were trying to pulse the lights whenever you get rumble, my mistake.

Have fun!

author
Charlie2652 made it!(author)2011-10-14

Do you know if after modding your led lights if the rapid fire mod (when soldering one end to the player 1 led) would still work?

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-10-14

Could you please explain more about what setup you're using? There are a few different ones for rapid-fire. If I understand correctly, are you trying to get when firing in rapid mode (like holding R-Trigger) that P1 LED blinks with it? Or something based on the rumble motors?

author
Charlie2652 made it!(author)2011-10-17

Yes I'm using the P1 light so when I press the momentary button on the back (that I installed) the frequency of P1 send signals to the trigger making it shoot really fast. See this instructable for what I followed. I believe it should work but I wanted to consult first. Thanks for you help.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Done/

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-10-17

Yeah, that will work. Lllama already ran this YEARS ago. It's basically just pulsing 2v to the LED really fast.

See here.

author
RoddyTheGreat made it!(author)2011-04-16

heres mine :D i drilled out the buttons and put LEDs into them and powered them using the main power feed on the back of the board :¬D

IMG_2610.JPG
author
jtc0520 made it!(author)2011-10-08

Is there anyway you can go in to any detail on how you did this? I would live to be able to incorporate this in one of my controllers or all 8 =D thanks in advance for your help.

author
RoddyTheGreat made it!(author)2011-10-08

https://www.instructables.com/id/Light-up-a-Xbox-Controller-with-LEDs/

This is pretty much how I did it, my LEDs were slightly bigger though so i had to drill out the button more. :D good luck with your modding

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-04-19

Wow, excellent work Roddy! Your results turned out very well, and I'm glad you improved upon and extended beyond the knowledge of my instructable. Keep up your efforts, I hope you produce more neat projects and make a few instructables on them. If you do, let me know, I would like to see them.

author
jbell1 made it!(author)2011-05-02

oh wow nice portal case!! <3

author
RoddyTheGreat made it!(author)2011-04-14

How bright (in MCD) are the standard Xbox leds? and what would an 80mcd, or 150mcd blue smd led look like?

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-04-14


I'm not sure how bright the LEDs used on a stock Xbox 360 controller are. If I had to guess, I would say they are about 60-100mcd.

An 80mcd blue would be pretty dim, but would still function. A 150mcd blue would look much nicer. In general, my rule is to get as bright as possible, up to around 1000mcd, at which point your controller is glowing.

author
Munchys made it!(author)2011-03-03

Odd i modded one of my controllers with a blue led off this instructable but like in the pic my p2 and p4 leds are brighter than the others

author
calexbg made it!(author)2009-09-25

I was using a 15W/30W soldering iron for this project and found that trying to float the LEDs with it on the 15W setting was nearly impossible (it took about 10 minutes) whereas using the 30W setting produced results similar to the video.

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2009-09-26

Did your iron warm up to full temperature first? The solder used on these LEDs is very low temperature solder, pretty much anything should work with it. If your tips are dirty, or have not had a tin bubble stuck to the end (you need to prep a brand new tip with some solder and let it cook for awhile) they won't melt solder at all. Either way, glad it worked for you, though 15W should be plenty of heat.

author
Munchys made it!(author)2011-02-16

i jsut got my iron back today and i tried this its a 25W soldering iron and took me like 5 minutes just trying to get it off it was fully heating cause i was previously soldering something else. This is not an easy thing to do though moving the led over the spot and trying to solder it but hopefully i will become use to it

author
ZeroXL91 made it!(author)2010-04-12

You were probably using the radioshack iron, same as mine, if it has a 15/30w setting, 30w is much better to use, only if you have enough experience though. I found using the 30w was better the same way you did :P

author
jonomon2002 made it!(author)2011-01-28

just ordered a soldering iron and some ultra bright blue 0603 SMD LEDs so ill be laying off the coffee for a while so my hands are steady when i have a go at this thanks for the informative instructable

author
CJSinc95 made it!(author)2010-10-13

this would be great for me to do as ive done all this sort of stuff before even though im only 15 unfortunatelly i live in australia any suggestions where i could get all this over here?

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2010-10-13

Doesn't unique-leds.com ship internationally?

If they don't, just search 0603 on eBay (0603 SMD LED [model #, Surface Mount Device, LED]. In five seconds I found an assortment pack of six colors for $3+shipping.

If you want an amazing eBay seller, search for "Light Victory Hi-Tech Led Store" on google, they have some incredible SMDs (2,500 mcd white!) Dirt cheap too, and since they are based in China, they ship anywhere.

author
camferret made it!(author)2011-01-14

I'm Sorry to ask but would these ones be correct?
Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/50p-SMD-SMT-0603-Bright-RED-LED-Lamp-Light-550mcd-/370390422487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563cfd53d7#ht_3820wt_905

author
QuackMasterDan made it!(author)2011-01-14

Yep, those will work just fine. That's a pack of 50 reds though, which is quite a few.

I found a pack of 20 for $3 including shipping:
http://cgi.ebay.com/0603-Ultra-Bright-SMD-LED-RED-20pcs-/220620338351?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335dff34af

Shipping for the link I provided takes two weeks though.

author
camferret made it!(author)2011-01-15

Thank you so much

author
CJSinc95 made it!(author)2010-10-14

thankyou SO much i had a look at the seller and managed to get everything i wanted to hardmod my 360 elite 360 slim and my controllers with some custon light colours and cold cathode tues inside the xboxes.
Now just to wait until the prcel gets through though knowing my local post office from past parcels they will give me a 3rd conformation letter the first time they 'TRY' and deliver it and ill have to go pick it up before they throw it >:(

About This Instructable

141,989views

220favorites

License:

Bio: I have a passion for tweaking things. Whether it be modding video game consoles, creating custom laser displays, or any creations with lights I love ... More »
More by QuackMasterDan:RetroPie - Overclocked Raspberry Pi 3 for Video Game EmulationTesseract Infinity DeskPower LED Light-Bar Ambient Lighting
Add instructable to: