Yak-Proof Survival Knife

 by bricobart
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Y.U.R.T. - Yellow Ugly Rescue Tool ;-)

I wanted to call this Instructable "Make a heavy duty survival knife from an rusty file for less then 15 dollar in less then 2 hours with only basic tools", but sometimes less is simply more...

Survival. Again. I'm doing this - this what? this sport? this spirit? this way of life? I like the last one! - for many years and every survivalist comes to The Moment of asking the only question that counts: 'which knife???'
On the net you'll find thousands of 'survival knives' and a few brands offer really good stuff.
Instead of buying one, as a survivalist I prefered making one.

Making your own survival knife is going back to basics of survival: be inventive or die, or so.

Untill now I always used a customized tactical knife (my custom Muela Tornado 'Black Betty' - see picture). No need to spend an Instructable on this: take the knife, take a grinder, take a sander and you're done!

A few months ago I decided to make a survival knife from a file with only some basic tools. That evening project resulted in Y.U.R.T, I agree, the most ugly knife you've ever seen. But one that does the job!
YURT exceeded my best expectations. It's 200% yak-proof and a lot more reliable than a lot of the so-called 'survival' stuff you'll find on the net - with all my respect for those brands that matter.

Why a file? Because it's very hard steel, easy to find, and cheap.

All you need:
  • a big grandpa's file
  • a big hammer handle
  • chemical anchor
  • angle grinder
  • sander
  • drill
  • safety gear
Dimensions of Y.U.R.T.
  • weight: 272 gram - almost 10 oz
  • overall length: 26.5 cm - a bit more than 10 inches
  • blade length: 11.5 cm - 4.5 inches
  • blade width: 3.5 cm - 1.4 inch
  • maximal blade thickness: 0.7 cm - 0.27 inch
 
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Step 1: Preparing the blade

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First of all you've got to find an old file. I found mine in a scrap yard and had it for 1 euro. Design rawly the blade you want to cut and start grinding.

Notes:
  • the tang aka 'root' has the same length as the blade!
  • cut some grooves in the root so that the anchor will have more grip
Once you cut the blade out of the file it's shaping time. Use angle grinder and sander and be careful not tu 'burn' the steel (when it becomes blue). Anyway, it's a survival knife so I didn't spend lots of time on design. Not this time.

For me, a survival knife needs four major functions:
  • digging
  • cutting
  • splitting
  • bushcraft
Therefor, I chose to give it a specific design:
  • pointed for digging and carving
  • an axe-styled upperpart for splitting
  • a hollow shaped underpart for bushcraft and potato peeling
This 'beaver-tail' shape leaves a lot of weight towards the tip of the knife - great for basic clearing work.

Use sander to finalize.
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flintwo2 says: Nov 2, 2012. 1:41 PM
It looks like it could still file objects, Was that meant on purpose?
bricobart (author) in reply to flintwo2Nov 3, 2012. 10:54 AM
Not really, the idea was to leave a maximum weight to the tip of the knife to improve slashing. If you want to file with it: feel free!
SamuraiSpirit in reply to bricobartMar 25, 2013. 3:42 PM
You can use the file part to make sparks with flint and steel to start a fire if need be.
dropkick says: Mar 11, 2013. 12:00 AM

I want all my survival situations to be like those of Bear Grylls.


-With a fully loaded RV just off camera.


Nice knife.


This isn't a criticism, but I always grind off the striations of the file before I make a knife out of one. I worry about the striation creating a weak point where the blade could break - I could be way off base with this though.

krdog says: Sep 4, 2012. 4:04 PM
Unfortunately - depending on circumstance, you won't have the materials handy to make a steel survival knife. Best bet in this day and age is to go back to the basics and learn how to bust a chip off a rock and go from there. The more you know, the less you have to carry.
bricobart (author) in reply to krdogSep 10, 2012. 5:26 AM
Aim of this knife is to build it BEFORE going on a survival trip, of course. You know, there are two types of survival: ask your friends or a perfect mr nobody to drop you somewhere remote and spend three weeks to track your way back 'bear grylls luxury survival', or the real 'LOST-type survival' when your plane crashes and you're put in danger by circumstances.
This knife is for the Bear Grylls's among us.
Do me a fovour, don't use the knives he's promoting...
weldor says: Jun 25, 2012. 2:10 PM
ever try a push-rod out of an engine? Just a thought is all.
bricobart (author) in reply to weldorJun 26, 2012. 1:53 AM
A push-rod???
weldor in reply to bricobartJun 26, 2012. 9:37 AM
it is the cylindrical shaped piece of steel (sometimes they are hollow) that transmits the lift of the cam (via the lifter/tappet) to the rocker arm which in turn allows the valve to open and close. They are found in the typical (older)overhead valve engines. These are often a decent alloy steel.
throbscottle says: Jun 2, 2012. 8:22 PM
I don't think it's ugly, I think it's rather nice looking. But I'm curious; yak proof you say. Have you tested it on an actual yak?
bricobart (author) in reply to throbscottleJun 2, 2012. 11:26 PM
Actually my yak tested it. He gave up, wasn't able to break it apart - which can't be said of a lot of so called 'survival knife'-brands...
throbscottle in reply to bricobartJun 5, 2012. 10:06 AM
Everyone should have a yak!
astrong0 says: Jun 3, 2012. 12:41 AM
How did you prevent the steel from burning?
bricobart (author) in reply to astrong0Jun 2, 2012. 11:31 PM
Control the tpm of your grinder and cool the blade in a glass of cold oil when you feel it's getting warm - I didn't do that, but I'm sure it's a good idea!
3.1415 says: May 27, 2012. 10:20 AM
Nice work! The simplicity is perfect. Perfect for improvisation when minutes count. Sure, one could spend lots of extra time being a blacksmith, but that may not be a luxury. Survival is about adapting. Just ask Darwin.
bricobart (author) in reply to 3.1415May 28, 2012. 10:50 AM
Thanx mate, you got the picture!
EmcySquare says: May 22, 2012. 3:20 AM
A few sujestions for further emproovement:

Usually when you repurpouse an old file into a knife you need to take away the temper form it first, and then putting it back by hardening, quenching and tempering. Heat threat is the very HEART of knifemaking

Also the connection between the tang (the part you refer to as "root") and the blade should not be a straight 90° angle but a large curve, otherwise you put a weak spot in the knife "by design" (it is still unlikelly to break, put if it does it will break right there or chip the point)

With such a file you could have made a longer knife, or a full tang

Keep up the good job
bricobart (author) in reply to EmcySquareMay 22, 2012. 7:52 AM
Hi EmcySquare!

Thanx for the suggestions mate! You're not the first one who pushes me on the forgery way and know that I agree with you and with all of you!

I'm gonna build my forge, for sure, and know that I can't wait to heat my first DARC, to forge my first Bhai and to improve the YURT. Burnin' feelin'!

I made this I'ble in the first place for all of those who don't have the advanced equipment of you knife-makers. I wanted to show that with a minimum of equipment, effort and investment you can make something that's knifable.

No need no forge, no need no drill press (in case of a full-tang design with love-less bolts or whatever), no need no craftmanship. With a cheap angle-grinder of 20$, a drill of 25$, some discs of all together 10$, an old file, a handle and some anchor of all together 20$ you can have a lot of fun. And survive in a lot of wildernesses, if you like ;-)

I'll post some pics once the forge is burning!
dropkick in reply to bricobartMay 24, 2012. 9:26 PM
I made my first knife with just a file, a drill, a hacksaw, a pair of pliers, some sandpaper, and a vise. It was more tools than I actually needed but it made it easier.
I did remove the temper first with my oven in my kitchen - I heated the metal (I used a leaf spring) to 500F and then left it in the oven to cool overnight. This removed the temper.
I then drilled holes around the shape I wanted for my knife and used the hacksaw to connect them. I smoothed and formed the shape with my file and made it prettier with the sandpaper.
Then using a coffee can filled with charcoal briquettes and a desk fan in place of a bellows I heated the blade edge until it was white hot and quenched it in old engine oil.
I made a handle out of a split apple wood branch that I formed with the same file and sandpaper I'd used on the blade. I attached it to the full tang with a pair of bolts and nuts.
I still use this knife.
dropkick in reply to bricobartMay 24, 2012. 9:26 PM
I made my first knife with just a file, a drill, a hacksaw, a pair of pliers, some sandpaper, and a vise. It was more tools than I actually needed but it made it easier.
I did remove the temper first with my oven in my kitchen - I heated the metal (I used a leaf spring) to 500F and then left it in the oven to cool overnight. This removed the temper.
I then drilled holes around the shape I wanted for my knife and used the hacksaw to connect them. I smoothed and formed the shape with my file and made it prettier with the sandpaper.
Then using a coffee can filled with charcoal briquettes and a desk fan in place of a bellows I heated the blade edge until it was white hot and quenched it in old engine oil.
I made a handle out of a split apple wood branch that I formed with the same file and sandpaper I'd used on the blade. I attached it to the full tang with a pair of bolts and nuts.
I still use this knife.
dropkick in reply to bricobartMay 24, 2012. 9:26 PM
I made my first knife with just a file, a drill, a hacksaw, a pair of pliers, some sandpaper, and a vise. It was more tools than I actually needed but it made it easier.
I did remove the temper first with my oven in my kitchen - I heated the metal (I used a leaf spring) to 500F and then left it in the oven to cool overnight. This removed the temper.
I then drilled holes around the shape I wanted for my knife and used the hacksaw to connect them. I smoothed and formed the shape with my file and made it prettier with the sandpaper.
Then using a coffee can filled with charcoal briquettes and a desk fan in place of a bellows I heated the blade edge until it was white hot and quenched it in old engine oil.
I made a handle out of a split apple wood branch that I formed with the same file and sandpaper I'd used on the blade. I attached it to the full tang with a pair of bolts and nuts.
I still use this knife.
Esque in reply to bricobartMay 24, 2012. 11:52 AM
Hi Bartolo, I'm all for making knives on the cheap (I collect and make my own over here in the UK) but I get very frustrated when I see what could be a good project spoilt by poor heat treatment, or in some cases even no HT at all!! By using a grinder you will have definitely messed up the HT on your file and while it will work for a little while, HT would definitely improve it. The thing is, an HT set up doesn't have to be hugely expensive and my best bit of advice would be to invest in Wayne Goddard's book, $50 Knife Shop.

Taught me a huge amount and it might just turn your future projects into something that meets the potential of this one. All the best and good luck with future projects, it would be great to get the word out that Ht doesn't have to be complicated or expensive!!
bricobart (author) in reply to EsqueMay 24, 2012. 9:17 PM
Hi Esque! You know, this I'ble goes about everything but knifemaking. Calling YURT a 'knife' would be as crazy as calling Heineken a 'beer'. Don't push grandma into the nettles, we say.

I agree, HT would surely improve the whole thing.

But: why should we heat the file untill it looses it magnetism, cool it down to make it soft, do what we have to do, reheat it again, quench it in oil to rehard it, and bake it in an oven for an hour to give it the right hardness (sorry if I simplified), IF IT WITHSTANDS AN HOUR OF ROUGH WORK (see The Big Test in step 4) WITHOUT IT?

In survival only the result counts, skip the details ;-)
tstens in reply to bricobartDec 16, 2012. 4:55 AM
Don't push grandma into the nettles
I don't know what that means, but it's my new favorite saying.
You crazy non-Americans.
EmcySquare in reply to bricobartMay 25, 2012. 1:36 AM
Working a hardened blade i harder and require more hard work

But' it's not only that: the hard work requires stronger "energy" on the blade that means more heat produced while working.
If you heat the blade and make it dark yellow in color the temper il gone anyway and you can't just "take away the yello spot"... the metal is weakened inside already.

Then you need to re-temper it anyway.

doing "the long way" is easier and helps getting a better result
Celt says: May 23, 2012. 7:27 PM
I have used files to make knives before as well. Here are a few tips if you care to try em out... Temper the blade by heating it red hot, (not too hot where is turns yellow or white). Keep at this temp for about 3 minutes and turn off the heat. let it cool to room temp on its own.
Shape the file into the shape you need and sharpen to the sharpness of a butter knife.
Bring the knife up to red hot temp again and quench in used motor oil.(be careful there will be flames). The Heavy carbon saturated oil will darken the blade and case harden the blade. Do this 2 times for best results.
P.S. Use a bench grinder for best results. Now use wet stones to sharpen the blade to make a purdy finish! I love to make knives, just never have posted any of them yet.
bricobart (author) in reply to CeltMay 24, 2012. 9:22 PM
Thanx for the tips Celt! My father used the 'used the motor oil technic' to temper his welds. Seems to be quite effective. Next time I'll change the oil of my car the oil will be put apart ;-)
foust61 says: May 24, 2012. 8:03 AM
Sika concrete anchor @ The Home Depot.
desertsniper says: May 22, 2012. 7:20 AM
very nice! i have been working on building some knives as well, im on number 3!
heathbar64 says: May 21, 2012. 2:23 PM
old files are great for a lot of stuff. if you want to do something more elaborate, you can anneal the metal by heating red hot and cooling slowly by burying it in dry sand or ashes. then it will cut and file easily. once you have the shape you want, reharded by geting red hot and quench in water for file hard again. you can then temper for the appropiate use.
bricobart (author) in reply to heathbar64May 21, 2012. 10:00 PM
Thanx for the tip, other members use kitchen oil to quench and temper in the oven.
heathbar64 in reply to bricobartMay 22, 2012. 5:20 AM
I've been working metal for a long time, but I am new to hardening and tempering.
I found a lot of good info on that from the book " the complete modern blacksmith"
by alexander weygers.
cart562 says: May 21, 2012. 9:32 PM
When asking about that chemical anchor stuff at my local hardware store, is that exactly what I would ask for? or is there another name?
EmcySquare in reply to cart562May 22, 2012. 3:13 AM
Epoxy glue will do just as good
You might even try to use a pin to lock the handle and thin inner part of the file
bricobart (author) in reply to cart562May 21, 2012. 9:57 PM
If you'll explain why it's used for they will understand, no worries!
bricobart (author) in reply to bricobartMay 21, 2012. 10:18 PM
It's muliticomponent stuff - a resin mixed with a hardener - sold in plastic cilinders you use in a pistol. The mixing occurs in the adapted tubes you mount on the cilinder, you'll see. Waste the first 'sprutch', it often is too liquid. Don't forget to close the cilinder after use.
cart562 in reply to bricobartMay 22, 2012. 10:16 PM
Ok, I am slightly familiar with those glues where you mix two things together, I was just wondering if this was something different.
quahogwi in reply to cart562May 24, 2012. 9:21 AM
Ask for some two part epoxy filler. Not glue, but filler.
bricobart (author) in reply to cart562May 23, 2012. 4:42 AM
It's not the same as bicomponent glue - it's really a sticky paste that gives some 'volume' and fills up the spaces between the tang aka 'root' and the hole you drilled in the handle. Chemical anchor, just look for some images on the net...
mr.mountaineer says: May 21, 2012. 9:13 PM
nice! it sure is ugly but gets the job done. id barely have any tools if i had to wait until i found good looking ones (98% of my tools and knives are preowned and well used) currently the knife i carry around in the woods is an old U.S. army kitchen knife that had broke in half and i reshaped the blade. its heavy enough to do about anything it should plus some.
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