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Yankee Screwdriver Maintenance

Yankee Screwdriver Maintenance
Yankee Screwdriver cleaning and repair

Intro

a
The Yankee screwdriver, as it is most commonly known, is my favorite tool. I wanted to write this because instructions on how to clean or even disassemble one of these are hard to find in anything other than bits and pieces online. In books? Maybe, but... it's more fun to figure it out yourself!

b
A brief history:
The spiral-rachet screwdriver has been around since at least 1860. The North Bros. Manufacturing company patented their design on December 11, 1923 and marketed it under their "Yankee" line of screwdrivers. Despite the fact that North Bros.' "Yankee" line included racheting and even regular screwdrivers, the name became synonymous with the spiral-rachet design. After WW2, Stanley bought North Bros. Stanley continued to produce "Yankee" spiral-rachet screwdrivers in the USA, then later in the UK until production finally stopped a few years ago. (I don't know the exact date, but I assume it to be >2000.) Later, a German tool company by the name of Schroeder purchased the design from Stanley (I think) and is currently producing "Yankee" spiral-rachet screwdrivers with both standard chucks or built-in hex chucks.

c
Why a Yankee? This and the hand drill are pretty much the original hand-held power tools. But they don't require electricity, last pretty much forever (as evidenced by these antiques from the 1920s, 30s and 40s) and cost a fraction of what modern power tools do (if bought used). They're also really versitle: Put a standard hex chuck adapter on it and it can fasten/unfasten any screw you can find. Plus, there are hex drill bits, too! Or you can put a 1/4" socket drive adaptor in the hex chuck and now all your sockets will work, too! So head out to your local flea market or antique mall and find one today!

d
Note: This article is based on a North Bros. model 130A "Yankee" spiral-rachet screwdriver. It should, however, be largely trasferrable to other models from North Bros., Stanley and Schroeder.

e
Note2: This article is unfortunately, NOT based on a complete tear-down, because I haven't figured out how to remove that one washer. More on that later.
 
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Step 1Safety

Safety first! The model 130 and all other models starting with a 1 are spring-loaded. Make sure to follow the directions when removing this to minimize risk of it shooting out of the barral. Also, we'll be using some chemical lubricants, so make sure you have plenty of ventallation and keep them off of your skin, clothes AND THE FLOOR! Read all instructions both here and on any chemicals before using!
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22 comments
Jun 1, 2009. 3:37 PMslackerdo says:
Nice job on showing how to keep one of these running but my question is where to find them now? I've been looking for one basically ever since I saw Elwood Blues use one in the Blues Brothers movie. Any help in that respect would be awesome of you.
Apr 18, 2012. 8:02 AMmonkeywidget says:
Update:
http://www.garrettwade.com/garrettwade-push-drill/p/69P01.01/

http://blog.makezine.com/2012/04/17/tool-review-garrett-wade-yankee-push-drill/#more-212988

Jan 30, 2012. 1:39 PMnull_value says:
When your Yankee (or Millers Falls, Greenlee, etc.) spiral ratchet screwdriver is clean and working correctly, it should move with very little friction like the one in this video. Tilting 45 degrees or less from horizontal is usually enough for the spiral shaft to slide under it's own weight. If your tool has a return spring in it, obviously you can do this quick test with the spring removed. If there is too much friction, the tool likely isn't clean enough. If the tool is clean and the shaft still sticks in places or is rough or wobbly, there is likely more wrong with it than just dirt and gummed oil.
Aug 16, 2011. 4:34 AMnevilleosrin says:
The Yankee I acquired came with a bit. Unfortunatelt, and this is the really annoying part, I can't remove the bit. The sleve slides easily enough but the little bugger just won't come out. I've tried brute force, WD-40 and the rest. No joy. Any ideas, anyone?
Sep 16, 2011. 3:54 PMnull_value says:
If there are any signs of rust on the exterior of the chuck, the problem is likely rust. The external sleeve and the spring seldom rust stuck but the internal sleeve and the crossbar/lock can. The short answer for rusted parts is penetrating oil and maybe heat. I don't know which Yankee model you have but the chuck likely is similar to patent 1138465 (look it up on google.com/patents/). Most Yankee screwdrivers have this type of chuck. Earlier tools with stamped with patent dates no later than 1908 will have a slightly different chuck (patent 632560). This older chuck is also hard to free up if rusted. Also, there are some Stanley-branded Yankees from maybe the 1980s or 90s that have a slightly different construction. The nose collar is different on those chucks. I have never seen one broken or disassembled so I don't know anything else about them. I recommend penetrating oil instead of WD-40. Soak the whole chuck for a few minutes. Try to wiggle the bit. I say wiggle but unless the bit is one of the more valuable long nickel-plated bits from before about 1910, I mean grab the bit with some vise-grips or a vise and work at it. Then soak again. Repeat at least a few times. The whole chuck is steel, so you might try heating the bit. I wouldn't heat the outer sleeve; you'd likely just ruin the chuck spring. Yes, the screwdriver bits are also heat-treated; heating the shank of the bit can be bad for the bit too. I you are successful in removing the bit, then install a different bit. Or, if the chuck still doesn't let go, you can re-harden the tip of the old bit if necessary. If it's a cheaper Yankee tool anyway, don't work too hard; just buy another. (I have a bunch of good, clean Yankees of every size that no one ever picks up or asks about at swap meets. On the other hand, be careful about buying old tools with moving parts via online auctions - expect to buy someone else's problems at least some of the time). If you are seeking even more adventure and have the right equipment, remove the nose collar and disassemble the chuck. The collar is swaged in place on all but the very late chucks. Not a job for most people. If I remember correctly, the late version has a retaining ring at the front of the collar, so might be easier to disassemble. Sorry about the ramble.
Sep 17, 2011. 6:05 AMnevilleosrin says:
Many, many thanks for your advice. I will try out your suggestions in order of difficulty!! Really appreciate the comprehesiveness and detailed instructions contained in your reply. My enthusiasm for DIY is not always matched by my capability, and step-by-step instructions really helpful.. Thanks again.
Apr 7, 2011. 6:05 PMnull_value says:
Typically, even very dirty Yankee screwdrivers (No.30, No.31, No.35 and their successors), can be cleaned well enough w/o removing the shaft. Just slide back the ratchet sleeve and remove the shifter and pawls to access the nuts (as shown in your Step7 and Step8). Re: your question about removing the spindle washer in Step5 and disassembling the spindle: To remove the spindle washer, first remove the shell screw at the front of the ratchet shell (remove the staked key at the front of the ratchet body unless you have an early model which lacks the key. You may have to make a tool or modify a small drag-link socket if the shell screw is stuck). Then remove the spindle assembly from the shell & handle tube (main body of the tool). This provides easy access to the spindle washer. Removing the spindle washer from the back end of the spindle allows the spiral nuts to slide off the spindle. BTW, I never remove a wood handle from these tools unless it needs repair or replacement.
Sep 14, 2010. 9:58 PMpeterlonz says:
I have Yankee (ex UK) no's 136A & 130A.
The 136A, small size is a bit of a dud - not recommended.
The 130A, about one foot long retracted, is the best screwdriver I have ever owned.
It's unique because I can deliver high torque, properly aligned to the screw, due to the long length. This means I can undo screws other drivers can't shift as well as get screws really tight if necessary.
Unfortunately the action "slips" so I have to use as a ratchet driver permanently retracted.
Mine did not last long after the first repair, so I concluded this was a high maintenance product, or I should use the spring action only with reduced driver force which is a bit limiting.
Regarding safety; the only worry is that it's relatively easy to allow the bit to jump out of the screw-head & when you "push" it can be through a window pane, or valuable component of whatever you are working on.
I know ..... less haste more care ..... but it happens!!!
My question is can this premature slipping be fixed & are new parts needed?
Great instructible, thanks.
Mar 29, 2011. 7:52 AMnull_value says:
The pawls engage the sides of the radial teeth on the outside of spiral nuts. The edge of the pawls that meshes w/ the nuts is ground at an angle to fully engage the teeth. The pawls can be swapped between the front and back nuts but the pawls have definite top and bottom faces. Flipping the pawls over may remove a very worn part of the pawl from the system, but will result in the pawl edges not mating correctly w/ the spiral nut teeth. If the pawls are so worn that you are considering new pawls, the nut teeth or nut spirals are typically even more worn out.
Oct 8, 2009. 1:26 PMkingspidey says:
Great instructable. Does anyone know how to disassemble the larger Yankee screwdrivers? I have a Stanley 68-130a that I'd like to replace the handle on, but I can't seem to remove it. Any insights?
Oct 12, 2010. 3:02 AMafridave says:
i own 2 of these which i inherited from my dad they are over 40 years old and all i can say is that it is the most usefull absolute best tool i have ever owned.
Sep 19, 2009. 4:42 PMframmis says:
I was just cleaning my Yankee drills yesterday and was thinking of creating an instructable. You beat me to the punch by some months. Thanks for some really good info for an indispensable tool.

Depending on how badly you want yours apart, you can strip it down to almost all it's component parts.

Once you get the sleeve off, remove the "staked" in pieces on the barrel. They are keepers to keep the parts in place and to keep them from rotating. They are easy to pry out and once out, you should be able to remove the handle barrel and the spindle keeper nut - and then all the other parts.

In the second picture, I've rotated the parts 90 degrees and you can see where one half of the handle barrel has apparently been cut away or had broken off. That cutout area is where the staked-in "stop" (opposite the screw hole) keeps the handle barrel from turning.

Once you get it all back together, use a cold chisel to stake the keepers back in place. (You might be able to skip this since the outer sleeve should hold them in place - although it might be a bit tricky to put back together.)

Also, while searching for more info, I found some chucks for the Yankee on Bob Vila's site.
http://video.bobvila.com/search?q=yankee+drill&siteSearchSubmit=
Jul 7, 2009. 8:06 PMcrazy_luck says:
I found one of these a few years back at a garage sale. The bit chuck was ruined, but I bought it anyways (only a few dollars). I took a keyless chuck from a cordless drill, threaded it onto a bolt and welded the bolt into the bit holding slot, managed to weld it in place perfectly on center. Now I can use it with screw driver bits and drill bits - comes in real handy with small drill bits when drilling plastic or light wood. Now that I've seen this I'ble, I can keep it clean and functioning! Thanks!
Jul 11, 2009. 10:56 AMcrazy_luck says:
It works good on light materials that are relatively thin, say no more than quater of an inch thick. If you need a super precise hole, it is definately not going to give you what you are looking for. I've mainly used it for some of the plastic car models I've customized. The drill chuck works brilliantly - it meant welding to the old tool to make it work, but a worthwhile modification by all means.
Jun 16, 2009. 2:33 PMCosmostrator says:
Great instructable. I recently cleaned up a couple of different model Yankees. You can check it out on my blog here http://cosmostrator.blogspot.com/2009/04/yankee-tools.html
Ironically there was one screw that kept me from taking apart mine all the way as well.

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