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Picture of Yet Another DIY Diode Laser Engraver

I always loved CNC machines! They are the future since they were first invented! I still believe that CADing and CNCing are miracles. When the first printer arrived to my home (I was about 10) I got really fascinated by the fact that I could print a paper about a hundred times by writing it just once!

Only recently I got comfortable with the parts and knowledge needed to built a CNC. I really needed a kind of plotter for my work. As you know a Commercial Laser Engraver is really pricey and a good one is simply out of reach...

To make a long story short I decided to build my own... The funny part is that when I started designing I didn't know Instructables so I reinvented the wheel in many cases...

So here we go: my Moving Gantry Arduino-Less Laser Engraver...

***Attention***

You can also use this machine to create PCBs. Here is my Instructable about it

Here is an Instructable with a better machine using the same parts: Repurposing my Laser CNC into a multi-mount CNC

Step 1: The Design

Picture of The Design
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I had NO experience on such machines. I just liked them a lot. The only CNCish machine I had built at the time was a (Arduino-based) coil winder, with auto-traverse winding and (of course) winding counter. No axis, no steppers or servos, no gantry precision issues, no G-Code, no anything! It was a clean start!

The first Design had to be changed in the process (that is utterly bad sometimes) but at least was working at first glance. The "gantry", for example, has changed about 3 times since then (pictures on next steps)...

As you can see in the pictures it is a really budget (to cheapish) project. Axis drivers are bought at 1.50€ for example. But lets be more precise:

Axis drivers (that white pipe - "απλή ντίζα" in greek - no english translation but I got it at a shop selling paint) 1.50€ per meter Needed 2 meters so 3 €

Copper pipe used for plumber jobs (12mm outter diameter) 2.90 € per meter

Needed just one meter and I really have enough for at least another one built!

MDF wood Base-Frame about 10 €

All screws and anything else needed (and shown in the pictures) are things an average hobbyist have lying around. In any other case they can be easily found at paint shops and plumber shops (this metallic tape "τσερκοταινια" in greek- for example -that I have no idea about its english name-).

So the Sum for the Frame is 15.90€. It could be cheaper if I had replaced the wood with foil or something, but being functional was an expectation...

 
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gul.m.rafiq6 months ago

Hello,

I am working on the project titled LASER ENGRAVING MACHINE. My primary targets are wood and acrylic on which i have to engrave. I am facing few problems completing my objective. I will be thankful if anyone help me.

Firstly i have made the circuit that i took from here: fun of DIY: A Raspberry Pi controlled mini CNC Laser engraver [last update Jan 18,2014]

Laser that is used in this circuit is extracted from DVD RW. Now, the problem is laser is running but it is not upto desired power output.

i haven't used lens yet is this can be problem ? or what else? what should do now to achieve my result ?

john1a (author)  gul.m.rafiq6 months ago
First of all welcome to the CNC world!
I will start with my opinions in this project:
Using a Raspberry Pi micro computer just to drive some pins is a waste. Use something less powerful for a trivial use like this. An arduino mini or the Computer Parallel port.

Now some solutions:
USE A LASER MODULE. Don't use the diode alone. It is a bad idea and it will die soon. So use a module for 2 reasons:
provides a heatsink to the diode and
supports lens which is a must for a job like ours...

Be sure that you use a laser driving circuit. Not just a resistor. Laser diodes are really good at dying prematurely if you treat them bad. Not using a constant current driver is bad treatment...

You may want to see my other instructable about making cheap (~2,50 euros) stepper motor drivers.

Good luck with your project!
jpx20086 months ago
Hi, would you know which laser diode should be used for engraving pens specifically. I'm a complete newbie to this field. I'm looking to make a small metal laser engraver. Your help would be appreciated. Thanks
john1a (author)  jpx20086 months ago
I believe that if want to engrave metal a diode is not powerful enough. And copper can't be engraved, keep that in mind...
jpx2008 john1a6 months ago
Thanks, what would I need?
GrownJ8 months ago

Here you can get a DIY laser engraving machine with high quality

1.jpg
john1a (author)  GrownJ8 months ago
They look good!

But it will ruin the joy of making it yourself! I don't doubt that they are better than mine though...
GrownJ john1a8 months ago
Yes,you are right do something by ourselves always an happy thing. I appreciate your creativity.
Dayzz8 months ago

When I read about the price of your rack and pinion, my heart was bleeding. A very cheap and good method is to use a fishing line and let the stepper motor wind it on its shaft or (since 28BYJ-48 has no round shafts) on a little tube which you put onto the shaft. Works great also with my 3D printer. Here is a pic from someone else:

http://laevus.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/IMG_1...

And I didn't understand why you use the 28BYJ-48 motors without the drivers you usually get together with the motors. The cheap drivers plus any Arduino board work perfectly fine.

But thanks a lot for your article! I will build one by using the ideas of both of us. :-)

john1a (author)  Dayzz8 months ago
I didn't get the driver with the motors. I have seen the nylon string - motor tuple myself working in a video of a homemade PCB maker (check my other CNC instructable). The rack and pinions were a bit pricey but they are pretty much needed when mounting a mini mill in the gantry (in my other CNC instructable too).

If you make something CNCish please post a link here or at least a picture of it!
Thanks!
MatthewD89 months ago

Do you have a video of it working? How is the speed with the small/cheap motors?

Do you have an example of something you made with it? I would think the tolerances are pretty lose with how you did your rails but when going cheap you ahve to sacrafice somewhere.. I'm tempted to try this!

Thanks for the Instructable! Awesome job!

john1a (author)  MatthewD89 months ago
I haven't any video of it as I disassempled it months ago to upgrade it. The update is in my profile. The cheap is actually good. Like 25mm/sec. But speed is laser dependent.

The reason of the upgrade was indeed the tolerance. I used drawer slides instead and it improved dramatically...
The motors aren't so bad. They aren't that trustful but they work. They not stall when configured correctly. I have a dedicated hardware system (cheap too) to drive those motors nicely. It is also in my profile.

Absolutely try this. You will learn a lot. The electronics are a bit confusing but, in my other instructable I give a shot to explain them as simply as I could...
starplayer9 months ago

1 meter of rack 16€? 1 gear 2€? Where mate?

john1a (author)  starplayer9 months ago
In greece, Spirou Patsi street, Athens...
MrRyzz9 months ago

Congrats!... I believe i can make this instructable next months. Im waiting for my laser diode which same as yours. But i have question about driver? Which laser driver can i use for 5v or 12 v pc power supply output?

john1a (author)  MrRyzz9 months ago
I used an external power supply of 12V. You need between 2 to 3 Amps.
The laser should perform the same with both 5V and 12V but the motors won't. The motors have to get 12V to be powerful enough.

You can make yout driver really easy or buy one.
MrRyzz john1a9 months ago

Thanks a lot . I will give this driver 5 volt and i wont use laser switch .

First i wil try with 6 diode circuit and see how many current used.

Ndv4542 laser diode use 125 ma ? in cw?

whamodyne1 year ago

Very sweet! I am also looking at the NDV4542 laser diode in a CNC engraver. Could you tell me what current you are running at? 100ma? 125ma? 200ma? Thanks!

john1a (author)  whamodyne1 year ago

Sure! It is about 125mA. I have run one at 180mA, but it died (LEDed is the laser enthusiast word) after 2 days.

All sellers have a "<200mA" or "<250mA" warning but the real datasheet (embedded here for you) has a different opinion about the subject: 130mA MAX current at Continuous Wave (that's what CW stands for). You can also PWM the diode with higher current. If you don't know what this is you probably don't need it. I always use CW though.

Be careful with the amperage and measure it using a "Laser diode Test Load circuit". Just google it if you don't know about it. It is an "under dollar" circuit to test the exact amperage of your supply at any possible voltage you will need using a Digital Multi-Meter.

Also use a Constant CURRENT (not voltage, because laser diode resistance isn't fixed - goes down with high temperature and ups current) supply. The lm317 IC does the trick for me (see schematic).

I have also uploaded my (variable current - you may want a different diode sometime) driver circuit with the on/off switch that goes straight to the parallel port (I use a TIP121 NPN transistor instead with a 1kΩ resistor at gate).

nichia_ndv4542.jpg200mW-405nm-Laser-Diode-Nichia-NDV4542.jpglaser_driver.png
john1a (author)  john1a1 year ago

I also supply the LM317 circuit with 12V. But 9V is equally good.

halamka1 year ago

Make the laser cut silicon chips. Since the beginning wires had to be welded onto a substance stranger than glass. Using a match etc. fuse aluminum powder onto a siliocon wafer side. Then cut individual diodes.

halamka1 year ago

Does arduino make you an enslaved Microsoft user? Did paul allen think of arduino to stave off BASIC computers that simply bypass Microsoft? I have an Atari 2600 and a card that says BASIC on it. I will try it somtime. The ASCII code for return is 0000 1101. Now think of a flat surface with flow chart symbals. Think of a memory block that can hold BASIC program lines that you have just typed in.

samern1 year ago

OMG, I so miss Greek. I grew up in Athens and just love to hear it....even more so in an Instructable. Your απλή ντίζα (Axis Drivers), that white pipe, in the US and likely the UK is PVC pipe, which is also a plumbing supply and for us would be a Home Depot purchase. Having built a few things like this, you need to make sure there is no 'slop' in your carriage, and what I suggest is at the same store you bought your pipe you buy metal tube and metal rod. Where we are, you can go to Home Depot and buy 3ft (0.9m) of steel tube and 3ft of steel rod that fits exactly in the tube. This way you have no need to tension the x or y carriage and there is no 'give' in either direction. Now your engraver is not taking a load because it is a laser, but if you stiffened the structure, you would get the ability to replace the diode with a rotary tool or spindle and have a CNC machine as well.

Apithano δουλεια!

home depot in UK is B&Q or as close as you can get and not steel the name as well, same racks same set up same items for sale but at much higher prices, i wish Home Depot would open up over here and keep the same prices as they have in USA.

If shipping rates were reasonable I could make a killing sending parts from Home Depot here to all of you in 'Old Blighty' or anywhere else. Alas, this is one of the reasons I never built anything worth anything when I was living in the UK. Just couldn't afford it, let alone house it.

nmylonas1 year ago
Thanx a lot. I'll look into it. Thank you for the response.
Nate_Bro1 year ago

This is great!

I want to invest in a good CNC PCB mill, large CNC Router/Mill, and a 3D printer. but the problem is to build those items I need parts. I have almost all the parts you listed in this build waiting for me at home. I can build a cheap CNC mill (maybe 3D printer) using these parts, and build some crude parts so I can make some decent equipment. I can imagine this thing would be a bit slow, but its better then what I have now. and I could even print my own PCB for the electronics.

Even if I can get 0.06" tolerance on this version I could build something better then using a jig saw!

I must have missed something, how are we hooking up the motors to the computer?

You'll probably have to switch to a more powerful stepper for a CNC mill though, and a pretty good motor to rotate the cutting tool. FR-4 is a nasty material to cut that's pretty harsh on the processing equipment. We use an old guillotine for thick pieces of cardboard to cut PCBs at work, you do have to sharpen it once in a while. For more precise cuts a CO2 laser is always a good option.

john1a (author)  SolidRaven1 year ago

A CO2 laser needs half a room of space to set up. It needs serious ventilation, (water) cooling and more. It also needs optics to transfer the beam from the tube to the material. Expensive things... If you want to build one search for the "2.x laser CNC" open source, open design project. It even has the same LinuxCNC interface with mine.

It is a complete project of hardware (schematics, templates) and software (LinuxCNC plugin for rastering, Pulse per Inch...) and completely free. Many people have made it...

Half a room is overkill, it really depends on what you're going for exactly. I think you're confusing the laser necessary to cut a PCB with the one you need to cut through thick steel sheets. And eitherway, using a Nd:YAG for FR-4 isn't the best of ideas.

john1a (author)  Nate_Bro1 year ago

It isn't slow. Not one bit. It can run with 30mm/sec. That's pretty fast...

You can design a CNC with changing gantry. This way you can build a PCB Mill and 3D printer while only creating 2 gantries and 1 CNC table...

The bigger builds need some Aluminium (and up) frame and *of course* greater motors(I believe 3 Amp motors will do the trick for 1m X 1m build).

I used the LPT port to connect the motors. The sparkfun easydrivers need step/dir signals that LinuxCNC provides automatically in the Parallel Port, given you have configured (via some nice GUI that lets you test everything) which pin goes to which signal.

good job

Nice one. I hadn't heard of LinuxCNC but I'll be taking a look at it - thanks.

Granzeier1 year ago

Very nice - and well presented (although not too sure about the cat - then again, I am not a "cat person") ;-)

Thank you for this - I think that it is time for me to make one of these laser engraver/cutters.

john1a (author)  Granzeier1 year ago

Happy to hear that! Don't forget to return with an "I made it" answer and pictures...

Also check again the Step 2 as I have added a way to reduce the cost by about 15€ (link to another of my Instructables)

The cat, as you know, is an internet joke, but this particular one helped me with the motor adjusting. If the motor was moving really slow *that I couldn't realize) the cat would just stare at it so I knew that the step signal was slow. If it wasn't moving at all the cat wan;t interested... He is an engineer too!

I wonder... why the cats are an internet joke?
I am a "cat person", but, did not know about that a cat was some sort of joke..

Not really an Internet joke - more like a YouTube meme. Over time, so many funny cat videos have been posted to YouTube that they make up a fair chunk of its content, and people just started including cats in their videos just for fun.

We miss a lot of details and pictures as well, can't you be more precise. About cats, they are the best mix of freedom and intelligence.

john1a (author)  rafununu1 year ago

You are right. It isn't *that* "step-by-step"... The reason is that I didn't know the instructables before I assembled the whole thing. So I haven't many photos and videos to show you with the machine half-assembled, axis tests, stepper driver circuit assembling, and such things...

Plus that if I restarted a similar project I would do everything in a much different way. So I believe some parts of the project aren't that good to actually show and teach how to do them, because they seem wrong to me now...

Either way, you can always ask me in the comments for everything you want and I will answer.

henrikas1 year ago
Where did you buy rack and pinions?
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