Introduction: Yunque Y Mesa (anvil and Table)

English version below!

El yunque

Hace un tiempo que estaba queriendo conseguir un yunque un poco mejor que el pequeño trozo de riel que estuve usando hasta ahora.

Hice algunas averiguaciones, y un conocido me vendió en U$S 36 un trozo de riel de unos 70 cm de largo, mucho más grueso y pesado del que yo tenía. Estaba en muy mal estado de conservación, posiblemente semienterrado o bajo el agua durante años, porque me vi obligado a sacarle con cortafierro el óxido que lo recubría, que saltó en escamas de mediano tamaño.

Luego lo llevé a un taller metalúrgico para que lo cortaran según mi diseño previamente marcado con la amoladora. No lo pude cortar yo mismo porque el riel ferroviario es de acero bastante duro, y mi amoladora no puede hacer un trabajo tan pesado. Ellos lo cortaron a soplete oxiacetilénico, que es muchísimo más potente, y me cobraron U$S 24.

Una vez cortado, lo sometí a una intensa sesión de amoladora de mano (unas tres horas), para eliminar las rebabas dejadas por el soplete, para alisar la superficie superior y también para eliminar un poco más de óxido.

Finalmente le di tres manos de líquido fosfatizante, que convirtió el óxido marrón en un fosfato negro mucho más estable.

El soporte: ¿tronco o mesa?

Mi primera idea fue usar lo tradicional: un trozo de tronco de árbol. Pero luego de unos días de iniciada la búsqueda de uno apropiado, me di cuenta de que las restricciones eran demasiado grandes: cualquiera fuera el soporte elegido para el yunque, este debería ser:
  • suficientemente fuerte como para no desbaratarse con el uso o la intemperie.
  • suficientemente ancho en la base como para no tumbarse accidentalmente.
  • suficientemente liviano como para poder moverlo sin ayuda.
Estos tres puntos son difíciles de encontrar juntos en un trozo de tronco, especialmente los dos últimos. Un tronco debería tener ambos extremos cortados perpendiculares al eje, para que su centro de gravedad permanezca centrado. Además, salvo que en un extremo tenga raíces o ramas, es muy difícil que cumpla el punto 2. Y en ese caso, el punto 3 se dificulta más todavía.

En resumen, decidí que una mesa hecha con madera semidura, y con la forma apropiada, era lejos preferible a un tronco.

La mesa

La última vez que estuvieron los albañiles en casa haciendo un trabajo, dejaron algunas maderas que yo conservé a la intemperie. Las revisé y están todavía en buen estado, por lo que decidí aprovecharlas. Había algunos metros de listones, otros de tablas.

Para hacer la armazón tendría que utilizar bulones en los lugares críticos, dado que la cola difícilmente resistiría la intemperie, y los clavos o tornillos para madera se podrían aflojar con las vibraciones y el esfuerzo del uso. Tuve que comprar los bulones, a razón de unos 0.25 U$S c/u, con tuerca y arandela.

Corté un trozo de tabla de dimensiones ligeramente mayores que la base del yunque. Dado que su grosor no me satisfizo, apilé dos iguales. Las uní con dos travesaños, mediante cuatro bulones bien apretados.

Las patas

Luego corté cuatro trozos de listón, destinados a ser las patas, y otros travesaños para unirlos con bulones, dos a dos.

Las patas van en disposición piramidal, para proporcionar una base grande. Los extremos superiores van apoyados bajo la mesita, sostenidos en posición por dos bisagras de mediana resistencia. Estas bisagras no recibirán directamente la fuerza del peso ni de los golpes, solamente mantendrán las patas en su lugar, y permitirán que eventualmente el conjunto pueda ser desplegado en forma plana, para poder trasladarlo con facilidad sobre el portaequipaje del auto.

Para evitar que las patas se muevan una con respecto a otra, las uní dos a dos con trozos trapezoidales de madera, cada uno asegurado con cuatro bulones. Una vez armado el conjunto, corté dos trozos de caño de hierro delgado, les aplasté los extremos, les hice agujeros y los atornillé sujetando el punto medio de cada par de patas con el tronco del par opuesto. El desplegado para trasladar la mesa se hará retirando los cuatro tornillos para madera que sujetan los dos trozos de caño.

Juntando todo

Llegó el gran momento de unir el yunque a su base. Dado que perforar el acero del riel es una tarea demasiado difícil para mí, corté dos trozos de varilla plana de hierro de 1/2 x 1/8, perforé ambos extremos y los doblé convenientemente según la necesidad: una punta va atornillada lateralmente a la mesa, y la otra desde arriba. En este extremo hice un doblez que cumple la función de puntal, evitando que la varilla se doble por la presión del tornillo, y pueda apretar la base del yunque como debe hacer.

Finalmente, una vez verificada la solidez y estabilidad del conjunto, adapté los extremos de las patas para que asienten más completamente sobre el piso, dado que siendo piramidal su disposición, pisaban con los vértices de los extremos.



The anvil

A while ago I was trying to get an anvil a bit better than the small piece of rail that I've been using so far.

I made some inquiries and a well-known sold me a piece of rail about 70 cm long in 36 $USD, much thicker and heavier than I had. It was in very poor condition, possibly partially buried or under water for years, because I had to get with chisel the overlying oxide, which jumped in mid-sized flakes.

Then I carried it to a metal shop to cut it in my design, previously marked with the grinder. I could not cut it by myself because the rail steel is pretty hard, and my grinder can't do a job so heavy. They cut it using acetylene torch, which is far more powerful, for 24 USD$.

Once cutted, it underwent an intense session of hand grinder (three hours) to remove any burrs left by the torch, to smooth the upper surface and also to remove a little more rust.

Finally I gave three coats of phosphatizant liquid that turned the brown rust in a black phosphate much more stable.



The support: a trunk or a table?

My first idea was to use the traditional: a piece of tree trunk. But after a few days into the search for an appropriate, I realized that the restrictions were too big: whatever the medium chosen for the anvil, it should be:
  • strong enough to not fall apart with the use or the weather.
  • wide at the base enough to not accidentally sprawl.
  • light enough to move it without assistance.
These three points are hard to come together on a piece of trunk, especially the last two. A log should have both ends cut perpendicular to the axis, so that its center of gravity is centered. In addition, except that one end has roots or branches, it is very difficult to meet point 2. And in that case, point 3 is more difficult still.

In short, I decided that a table, made of semi-hard wood, and with proper shape, was far preferable to a log.



The table

The last time the masons were doing work at home, left some woods that I kept outdoors. Checked them and are still in good condition, so I decided to take them. There were a few meters of cleats and other timbers.

To make the frame I would have to use bolts on the hotspots, since glue hardly resist the weather, and nails or wood screws could loosen with vibration and effort of use. I had to buy bolts at a rate of about 0.25 USD$  c / u, with nut and washer.

I cut a piece of board with dimensions slightly larger than the base of the anvil. Since its thickness did not satisfy me, stacked two are alike. Joined them to two crossbars by four tight bolts.



The legs

Then I cut four pieces of cleat intended to be legs, and other little pieces to connect them like crossbars with bolts, two by two.

The legs are arranged in pyramidal shape to provide a large base. The upper ends are supported under the table, held in place by two iron hinges of medium strength. These hinges do not directly receive the force of weight or shock, but keep the legs in place, and eventually allow the whole set can be deployed in a flat shape to move it easily over the roof trunk of the car.

To prevent the legs from moving relative to one another, joined them two to two with trapezoidal pieces of wood, each secured with four bolts. Once assembled the set, I cut two pieces of thin iron pipe, smashed the ends, made holes and screwed them to hold the midpoint of each pair of legs with the trunk of the opposite pair. The deployment to move the table will be done removing these two pieces of pipe.



Putting it all together

The big moment arrived: to join the anvil to the base. Since drilling the steel rail is too difficult for me, I cut two pieces of flat iron rod 1/2 x 1/8, drilled both ends and suitably bent as needed: one end is screwed laterally to the table, and the other from above. At this end I made a fold that serves as a strut, keeping the rod to bend under the pressure of the screw and tighten the base to the anvil as it should do.

Finally, having verified the soundness and stability of the whole, I adapted the ends of the legs to settle more fully on the floor, because been pyramidal the general shape, they stepped on the vertices of the edges.


Comments

author
smithy101 made it! (author)2014-11-20

I've been looking for a piece of rail for this exact purpose it looks great nice work!

author
rimar2000 made it! (author)rimar20002014-11-21

Yes, it is not easy to get one. Anyway, a "true" anvil has other useful features, as a taper, a round hole and a square hole.

Thanks for comment.

author
jimbo-g made it! (author)2012-01-26

Great respect man, that is such an impressive bit of DIY, if i can get the materials im making one exactly like that

author
rimar2000 made it! (author)rimar20002012-01-28

Thanks for your comment!

If you can, do it a hole, too. I have not that possibility.

author
Jayefuu made it! (author)2011-08-24

Wow that's a great use for an old piece of rail!

author
rimar2000 made it! (author)rimar20002011-08-25

Thanks, James. You don't imagine the amount of rust I took off of if!

author
pop top made it! (author)2011-08-12

I always-always look forward to your work. I wish we were neighbors.
MIKE

author
rimar2000 made it! (author)rimar20002011-08-13

Thanks Mike for your kind words!! I need a good neighbor, I am lonely as Adam at mother's day.

author
Phil B made it! (author)2011-08-08

Osvaldo, I also have a piece of rail I am using as an anvil. You put a lot of work into shaping your anvil. I am surprised that your table works so well for you. Thank you for sharing.

author
rimar2000 made it! (author)rimar20002011-08-09

Thanks Phil.

Tha main shaping of the rail/anvil was not made by me but by a metal workshop, using blowtorch. They turned aside a little of what I had marked, but no problem.

I also was amazed by the strength that shows the table.

author
Topcat2021 made it! (author)2011-08-08

Good Job;
I love your work and the " get it done" inspiration that you put into your projects. I also used to have a piece of rail for an anvil it was similar to your old one.
I hope this one serves you well for a long time.
Again keep up the good work.
Dan

author
rimar2000 made it! (author)rimar20002011-08-08

Thanks for your kind words, Dan!

About This Instructable

2,501views

9favorites

License:

Bio: I am leaving Instructables, soon. I am very upset with the turnaround that has the page to post the manufacture of a dildo. Me llamo ... More »
More by rimar2000:Calculating a pulleys based speed drive (Variador de velocidad a poleas)Aerostato (hot air balloon)Easy monopod (Monópode fácil)
Add instructable to: