Step 2: Parts

ZVS drivers are fairly cheap to build, the only pricey part may be the MOSFET's. I got most of my parts from Farnell and some of it I had lying around.

• Flyback transformer
Newer flybacks are recommended as they are very robust. You can use an older flyback for higher current output, however, they are more likely to burn out due to excessive voltage.

• 2x 470Ω 2W resistors
The color code is yellow/purple/brown

• 2x 10KΩ 1/4W resistors
The color code is orange/brown/black

• 2x 12v 1/4W zener diodes

• 2x 400+ volts fast diodes
I used UF4007 diodes.

1x  inductor
The value is not critical but it should be 47uH to 200uH rated at 10A or more. You can find an inductor from a computer PSU or you can simply make your own, just wrap 20 turns of 16 gauge of enameled wire around a ferrite toroid.

• 1x 0.68uF 250v (or higher) capacitor
This capacitor must be bipolar and must be good quality, such as MKP ot MMC types. NEVER use an electrolytic capacitor, they will blow up. You can test various types of capacitors to see which one suits your ZVS driver well.

• 2x IRFP250 MOSFET's
They are a bit pricey, however, you can use other MOSFET's that has Vds 4x more than the power supply and has the Rds(on) lower than 150mΩ. Unfortunately those MOSFET's are a bit over my budget so I used the IRFP254 MOSFET's instead, not the best, but it is cheaper and it and it should give me good arc results. I also tried using the popular IRF540 MOSFET, however, it gave me very poor results.

• 2x small heatsink
They won't be necessary if you are going to run your ZVS driver lower than 12v.

• Large variable voltage power supply
Now this can cost quite a big chunk of change, you can a computer power supply unit for 12v power source. If you want a higher voltage power supply, then you might want to consider modifying a microwave oven transformer, but this is another project. As I don't have a large power supply so I used six  6v sealed lead acid batteries all in series to gain 36v to power my ZVS driver.

Then finaly the other bits and pieces you may need such as solder, thick wires, etc. 
I made it, it works, but is it running ok if at 13.8v it only draws a few hundred mA, and only produces a 1/4" thin purple arc on my flyback secondary? Nothing gets hot on the board... I just want to be sure it's all acting normally before I hit it with 30+ volts from a supply capable of serving 30+ Amps.
<p>hi, I'm having a lot of trouble finding the 10K&Omega; 1/4W resistors, does a half ohm resistor work too?</p>
No. Amazon has them pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0185FGYQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464227860&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=10k+resistor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41GhcKWBo6L&amp;ref=plSrchI recommend them to anyone who wants to build this. If anyone wants a parts list to see where I bought everything, just comment above and I'll get back asap.
<p>Hey guys, i made a zvs driver, and i cannot get it to work properly. I first made the zvs driver, and my computer power supply kept shutting down when i attached the inputs to the circuit. I know how to make the signal work to get the 12v output. But i changed a few things, and it made one transistor hot, out of the two i had. I tried to change it to work again, but now its back to the beginning. I'm not sure if it's my crappy circuitry construction skills, or just the PCU. PLEASE HELP.</p>
Do you have the optocoupler bypassed in the computer PSU?
I've made it. It WORKED great for a while. The the next day, I fired it up, and nothing. It stopped working and still can't figure out what's wrong with it. I'm using a 12v 10A power supply. maybe not enough current? Idk.but I do recommend this to others looking to build this.
<p>For some reason I get both DC and Ac at the output also DC and AC in the input and I tried using a toroidal transformer since I didn't have any flyback transformers and it just heats up and the circuit only takes in 6 volts 5 amps even though my supply can give 20 volts 12.5 amps.</p>
<p>I had the same issue;</p><p>I found putting a nice big capacitor in paralell with the power supply did the trick, i'm pretty sure the issue is a large voltage drop when you initially power the circuit, preventing the FET's from being switched properly, the capacitor provides a little stability at the start, as the capacitor resists the rapid change in voltage.</p><p>Hope this helps</p>
Thank you!!! This helped so much!!!!
<p>Alternatively use a more stable powersupply such as a computer PSU</p>
<p>My toroidal transformer just heats up and no voltage/current is registered at the output.</p>
I have a concern. One of my MOSFETs are heating up and the other is not. Is this normal?
Hello.. I am trying to make wireless charger using flyback driver. Can you please tell me the input I should give to driver for efficient transmission
I have another question. What is the midget pinout from schematic to the real thing? I know there is drain, source, and gate, but which pin in which? Could someone do the same thing as I did but instead of the question marks place the locations of the drain, source, and gate? Thanks!!!
<p><a href="http://www.ti.com/ds_dgm/images/fbd_slps390a.gif">http://www.ti.com/ds_dgm/images/fbd_slps390a.gif</a></p><p>You should be able to tell which is which without them being labeled. You should take the author's advice and not attempt this if you are a beginner. You can get killed if you don't know what you are doing. </p>
Thank you for answering so quickly!!! I'm not a beginner though. I'm not just that good at reading schematics that well. So the pins that go towards the left side of the schematic is he middle pin (gate)? And the other two are the ones on the side (drain and source)?
Or do I just use the labeling that Proto G include but just switch the drain and source?
<p>Try google datasheet of your mosfet :-) (pin 1 is the left one)</p>
So then I should follow the picture on this page: http://www.el-component.com/transistor-mosfet/irfp250n.html
Thank you very much!!!
I have two radial yellow capacitors. They both are rated above 250v. One of them is .22uF and the other is .47uF. Can I put these together to get .69uF. If so how? And is 0.69 too high or do I need 0.68?
Of course it is ok :) it will do the same thing, I had way more capacitance and for me it worked better, everyone's flybacks differ so they need different capacitance this 0 68 is a general one which will work pretty good for all of them but if you hit the right capacitance the spark will be much thicker and hotter, at least for me with 0.68 it makes a cold, skinny spark, if I add a 2uF capacitor it makes waaaay better sparks, mostly because I use 2 flybacks in series...
Cool! Thank you for the feedback! Much appreciated!
Both are yellow and are like the blue one you have above.
Could someone help me out? ?
Hello, I have 2 irfp260n's on my zvs, but they are heating up so fastly, my question is, could I put 2 more in parallel with the other 2 so they would split the current...as it draws more than 30A from my 24v transformer ???
I'm not 100% sure. Probably not because it would probably affect the zvs. I'm not getting my parts until the end of the month so I cannot tell you for sure. Worst comes to worst, just try it. And could you help me with my question? I would appreciate it!!!!
Also you probably should buy some 250s off of amazon. I'm getting 5 of them for $9 + free shipping. Good deal!!!?
Lol dude, 260's can handle double the current of the 250's those burned out after 1 min of continuous use xD anyways the heat up when they draw a lot of current from the psu, mine can give max 30A and the zvs would &quot;eat&quot; more if I would be able to give it more xD but if you have just a 10-15A power supply the mosfets wont heat up...on 12v 12A I can use the zvs continuousy like half an hour or more... But when I give him 24V 30A psu they heat up instantly xD... But the difference is day and night...
<p>I noticed an incorrect color code given for your <em>10K &Omega; resistor</em>.</p><p>It should read: <strong><em>Brown/Black/Orange;</em></strong></p><blockquote><strong><em>Orange/Brown/black = 31&Omega;</em></strong></blockquote><p><a href="http://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code-4-band" rel="nofollow">http://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-cal...</a></p><p>Hope this helps anyone who may have missed that.</p>
<p>Can I use 2 IRFP150N, or 2 IRFP450PBF?? The 450 are a bit expensive, didn't found 250</p>
Amazon has them
<p>hello</p><p>can this CCT use for induction heating if you done any thing about induction heating use this CCT plz share...... </p>
<p>And the question stands (well, for me); what would you do with a thing that can supply around 20kV ?</p>
A Tesla coil :)
<p>I had built one from a flyback transformer !!</p>
<p>I bought a ZVS Power Resonator from RMCyernetics.com at http://www.rmcybernetics.com/shop/cyber-circuits/induction-heater-circuit. I was surprised at how well it worked, it got aluminium to a molten state in a matter of seconds after hooking it up to my water cooled induction coil (also from RMCybernetics).</p>
<p>how can I make a zvs driver to withstand a 70V 200A DC power supply or a induction heater that's about 14KW and good enough to melt about 12 to 14kg of iron in a hour</p>
Here's a calculator; this should help.<br>http://www.rmcybernetics.com/science/physics/heater-power-calculator.htm
<p>you got me wrong I want to know hot to make a zvs driver like yours just make it so I can power it with a 70V 200A DC power supply<br>and what does a zvs driver do I heard that it takes regular DC and turn it into high pulse DC </p>
Hi i need an amp be4 i go nuts. Have old sterio can i sum how make amp that uses headfone port on s4 fone plz help
<p>Google it</p>
please, take the time to read my friend, your request is completely unrelated to the topic. maybe try searching for audio amp??
<p>What do the zener diodes do? Why won't normal ones work?</p>
what is the function of the ZVS driver??
<p>Finally I made it!</p><p>But something just feels not right.. The stream from flyback transformer always try to breach anything to find ground.. And mostly it did it in one way or another, every time I move the cathode away.. Once the stream lost, it's like going wild.. Sometimes I can see sparks outside the fuse case of the DC PSU..</p><p>I drive it from a 10A 36VDC PSU.. I doubled the 2W resistors value and increase the zener to 24V also two 270nf/400V caps in parallel as the final caps..</p><p>I've been questioning what could be wrong with the circuit.. Or is it just because the voltage too high for my entire circuit/case design? Because it still can reach my hand through my 50cm PVC chicken-stick.. I can feel it and I can clearly see a slight stream strike back to the PVC.. Kinda strange for me because a PVC should be a good insulator..</p>

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