Step 5: Power her up and set wires on fire!

When you first power on your ZVS driver, start with 12v input to make sure everything thing is working. Then you can increase the input voltage up to 36v. You can power the ZVS driver above 36v, but then you risk blowing up your driver, check step 7 for instructions for modifying your ZVS driver to handle higher input voltages.

You may hear an very high pitched squeal from your ZVS driver, don't worry, that is normal.

What ever you use as your negative terminal, it will get hot, very hot! The arc will melt any thin wire you use into little metal balls and steal will just fly everywhere, which is cool (and dangerous)! If anyone has a good explnation why the negative terminal get so hot and the positive terminal remains fairly cool, I'd like to know.. :-)

Also, in the video, just after the arc burnt a hole into a lightbulb, they was a stream of plasma 'shooting' out of the bulb, like a flame thrower. This is because when the arc got inside the bulb, the gas inside heats up, causing it to expand and escaping through the hole thus creating a "plasma thrower".
<p>For some reason I get both DC and Ac at the output also DC and AC in the input and I tried using a toroidal transformer since I didn't have any flyback transformers and it just heats up and the circuit only takes in 6 volts 5 amps even though my supply can give 20 volts 12.5 amps.</p>
<p>I had the same issue;</p><p>I found putting a nice big capacitor in paralell with the power supply did the trick, i'm pretty sure the issue is a large voltage drop when you initially power the circuit, preventing the FET's from being switched properly, the capacitor provides a little stability at the start, as the capacitor resists the rapid change in voltage.</p><p>Hope this helps</p>
Thank you!!! This helped so much!!!!
<p>Alternatively use a more stable powersupply such as a computer PSU</p>
<p>My toroidal transformer just heats up and no voltage/current is registered at the output.</p>
I have a concern. One of my MOSFETs are heating up and the other is not. Is this normal?
Hello.. I am trying to make wireless charger using flyback driver. Can you please tell me the input I should give to driver for efficient transmission
I have another question. What is the midget pinout from schematic to the real thing? I know there is drain, source, and gate, but which pin in which? Could someone do the same thing as I did but instead of the question marks place the locations of the drain, source, and gate? Thanks!!!
<p><a href="http://www.ti.com/ds_dgm/images/fbd_slps390a.gif">http://www.ti.com/ds_dgm/images/fbd_slps390a.gif</a></p><p>You should be able to tell which is which without them being labeled. You should take the author's advice and not attempt this if you are a beginner. You can get killed if you don't know what you are doing. </p>
Thank you for answering so quickly!!! I'm not a beginner though. I'm not just that good at reading schematics that well. So the pins that go towards the left side of the schematic is he middle pin (gate)? And the other two are the ones on the side (drain and source)?
Or do I just use the labeling that Proto G include but just switch the drain and source?
<p>Try google datasheet of your mosfet :-) (pin 1 is the left one)</p>
So then I should follow the picture on this page: http://www.el-component.com/transistor-mosfet/irfp250n.html
Thank you very much!!!
I have two radial yellow capacitors. They both are rated above 250v. One of them is .22uF and the other is .47uF. Can I put these together to get .69uF. If so how? And is 0.69 too high or do I need 0.68?
Of course it is ok :) it will do the same thing, I had way more capacitance and for me it worked better, everyone's flybacks differ so they need different capacitance this 0 68 is a general one which will work pretty good for all of them but if you hit the right capacitance the spark will be much thicker and hotter, at least for me with 0.68 it makes a cold, skinny spark, if I add a 2uF capacitor it makes waaaay better sparks, mostly because I use 2 flybacks in series...
Cool! Thank you for the feedback! Much appreciated!
Both are yellow and are like the blue one you have above.
Could someone help me out? ?
Hello, I have 2 irfp260n's on my zvs, but they are heating up so fastly, my question is, could I put 2 more in parallel with the other 2 so they would split the current...as it draws more than 30A from my 24v transformer ???
I'm not 100% sure. Probably not because it would probably affect the zvs. I'm not getting my parts until the end of the month so I cannot tell you for sure. Worst comes to worst, just try it. And could you help me with my question? I would appreciate it!!!!
Also you probably should buy some 250s off of amazon. I'm getting 5 of them for $9 + free shipping. Good deal!!!?
Lol dude, 260's can handle double the current of the 250's those burned out after 1 min of continuous use xD anyways the heat up when they draw a lot of current from the psu, mine can give max 30A and the zvs would &quot;eat&quot; more if I would be able to give it more xD but if you have just a 10-15A power supply the mosfets wont heat up...on 12v 12A I can use the zvs continuousy like half an hour or more... But when I give him 24V 30A psu they heat up instantly xD... But the difference is day and night...
<p>I noticed an incorrect color code given for your <em>10K &Omega; resistor</em>.</p><p>It should read: <strong><em>Brown/Black/Orange;</em></strong></p><blockquote><strong><em>Orange/Brown/black = 31&Omega;</em></strong></blockquote><p><a href="http://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code-4-band" rel="nofollow">http://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-cal...</a></p><p>Hope this helps anyone who may have missed that.</p>
<p>Can I use 2 IRFP150N, or 2 IRFP450PBF?? The 450 are a bit expensive, didn't found 250</p>
Amazon has them
<p>hello</p><p>can this CCT use for induction heating if you done any thing about induction heating use this CCT plz share...... </p>
<p>And the question stands (well, for me); what would you do with a thing that can supply around 20kV ?</p>
A Tesla coil :)
<p>I had built one from a flyback transformer !!</p>
<p>I bought a ZVS Power Resonator from RMCyernetics.com at http://www.rmcybernetics.com/shop/cyber-circuits/induction-heater-circuit. I was surprised at how well it worked, it got aluminium to a molten state in a matter of seconds after hooking it up to my water cooled induction coil (also from RMCybernetics).</p>
<p>how can I make a zvs driver to withstand a 70V 200A DC power supply or a induction heater that's about 14KW and good enough to melt about 12 to 14kg of iron in a hour</p>
Here's a calculator; this should help.<br>http://www.rmcybernetics.com/science/physics/heater-power-calculator.htm
<p>you got me wrong I want to know hot to make a zvs driver like yours just make it so I can power it with a 70V 200A DC power supply<br>and what does a zvs driver do I heard that it takes regular DC and turn it into high pulse DC </p>
Hi i need an amp be4 i go nuts. Have old sterio can i sum how make amp that uses headfone port on s4 fone plz help
<p>Google it</p>
please, take the time to read my friend, your request is completely unrelated to the topic. maybe try searching for audio amp??
<p>What do the zener diodes do? Why won't normal ones work?</p>
what is the function of the ZVS driver??
<p>Finally I made it!</p><p>But something just feels not right.. The stream from flyback transformer always try to breach anything to find ground.. And mostly it did it in one way or another, every time I move the cathode away.. Once the stream lost, it's like going wild.. Sometimes I can see sparks outside the fuse case of the DC PSU..</p><p>I drive it from a 10A 36VDC PSU.. I doubled the 2W resistors value and increase the zener to 24V also two 270nf/400V caps in parallel as the final caps..</p><p>I've been questioning what could be wrong with the circuit.. Or is it just because the voltage too high for my entire circuit/case design? Because it still can reach my hand through my 50cm PVC chicken-stick.. I can feel it and I can clearly see a slight stream strike back to the PVC.. Kinda strange for me because a PVC should be a good insulator..</p>
<p>At high voltages dielectric breakdown occurs where electrons find their way across an insulator due to ionization. PVC dielectric breakdown voltage is around 40 Mv/m. If your design is definitive, you could also seal the entire thing with wax or submerge it in mineral oil</p>
<p>OK.. Problem solved.. My chicken stick is a grey PVC pipe that made of pipe contains grey dye.. Even in a small measure, it's still more conductive compared to a white PVC pipe which contains no dye. It has been proven.</p><p>Anyway, the wax that seals the flyback still can't resist the spark leap from the HV pin. I want to choose the mineral oil, but the overall size would be too large. I just leave it as is until I find another solution..</p><p>And thank you very much for your advice..</p>
<p>move the power supply away from the driver and the driver away from the transformer (increase the length of the wires) that would work also try using insulating tape on your chicken stick.</p>
<p>wat is the frequency of the out put? is there a way of increasing or decreasing the frequency of this circuit output?</p>
<p>Great driver and 'ible! barely gets warm at 12v coming out of a PC PSU and really nice arcs, modifying a Microwave Transformer soon for 24v for longer arcs. Fiddling with the capacitor value helps a lot to get the best out of your flyback. I ended up with an arrangement of 6 caps (1&micro;f 275v), 3 pairs in parallel then those 3 pairs in series to achieve 0.66&micro;f capacitance that has a rating of 825v which meant less capacitor heat and easier to modify the frequency with different arrangements, this the is the calculator i used for the capacitor arrangements http://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/calculators/mmc-calculator/</p>
<p>How does your PC PSU not have current protection?</p>

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