Introduction: Zombie Weapon
This Instructable will demonstrate the process of How to Build a Zombie Weapon. I have taken quite the fine furniture approach by using some exotic scrap woods while avoiding using a rusty saw blades. Therefore the whole piece contains only wood held together by glue. This would be a nice project to be put together using only joinery. (I therefore open the challenge to anyone willing to try.)
Here is the material list to complete this project:
- Ash Wood Approximately 27 x 8 x 1 inches for the base of the bate
- Strips Purpleheart and Purduk approximately 48 x1/2 x 1/2 for the spikes
- Two strips of Purpleheart 10 x 1 x 1/4 - For handle
- One block of Purduk 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1 for a top cap on the bat.
- Wood glue
- CA glue
- Two part five minute epoxy
- Paste wax or any type of finishing
- Table saw
- Hand saw
- Belt Sander
- Miter Saw
- Large bar clamp
- Vise (optional)
Step 1: Instructional Video
If you are interested please check out my build video. I feel that between this Instructable and my YouTube video anyone would be able to understand the process to create one on their own. Also, the video is part of a challenge collaboration started by the YouTuber Mike Fulton. This collaboration was inspired by the TV show The Walking Dead. My effort is only 1/25 the overall collaboration so there are 24 other similar project videos.
Step 2: Gather Scrap Wood
In my shop, I have quite the collection of scrap wood. I found a nice piece of Ash approximately 27 x 8 x 1 and a few pieces of Purpleheart and Purduk 3/4 x 3/4.
Step 3: Cutting Scrapwood Down to Size
For this step, I use a table saw to cut the Ash Wood into strips approximately 27 x 2 1/2 x 1 and the thin strips of Purpleheart and Purduk are squared up to 48 x 1/2 x 1/2.
Step 4: Cutting and Glueing Ash Wood
These few steps will be to build the base of the bat.
First, I cut two of the three ash strips approximately 27 x 2 1/2 x 1 long down to 12 inches lengths.
Second, I glue the sides of remaining long pieces and place the short pieces to one end and clamp until the glue sets.
Step 5: Saw to Square
At this point, I saw my base to square lengthwise while removing the excessive glue away.
Also, on the table saw, I cut a 45 degree angle to create a bat-type shape. (Not pictured)
Step 6: Mortisering Out Spike Holes
In this step, I use my mortiser to drill/chisel out 1/2 x 1/2 square holes for tenon spikes. I found that the process was a lot easier if, I drilled out the hole first on my drill press. (The drilling process not pictured)
Cheaper solution - For a similar type of construction, a builder could exchange square pegs for round dowels. This would really be a wise decision since both dowels and drill presses are cheaper/easier to buy.
Step 7: Optional Step - Decorating Handle
In this step, I found some extra scrap of Purpleheart to decorate the handle. By gluing and clamping the piece of Purpleheart approximately 10 x 1 x 1/4 on the long piece of Ash wood to fashion a handle.
Step 8: Handle - Cutting to Shape
This step is where the handle is cut into shape. I used a general ripping hand saw to make the long cut and a pricey Japanese dovetail saw to make the difficult angle cut.
Step 9: Bat Head Cap
In this step, I make the head cap part by cutting a piece of Purduk to the size of 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1 inch. To secure the head cap; I use two part epoxy with a large bar clamp.
Step 10: Shaping Bat Head Cap
This step is about shaping the Bat Head Cap. I use my 1x30 belt sander to create the shape that I desire. The first step is to knock off the edges of Purduk to match the shape of the bat. The second step is rounding out the top-most of the bat. What I wanted was a round shape at the tip, and to make the round section flow into the octagon shape of the bat. Simply, I sanded only the Purduk and avoided the Ash wood completely.
Side note: This turned out to be the best looking part of the project especially since I sanded down the project to a 2,000 grit sand paper finish.
Step 11: Quick Tip - Cleaning Sand Paper
This picture is where I am using a block of rubber to clean the sanding belt. This is not quite essential to the project but is a good tip on getting the most out of your consumables.
Step 12: Sanding
Sanding - I know is everyone's favorite activity. I started with pure elbow grease but, I later moved on to using an electrical sander clamped into a vise. This trick/hack; I highly recommend it because it will save a lot of time and effort.
Step 13: Part 1 - Cutting and Shaping Spikes
Again, I use my vise to clamp the long strips of Purduk and Purpleheart so they can be easily cut down to size - approximately 1 1/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 inches. After all of the pieces are cut; I use my 1x30 belt sander to shape the spikes in two different ways. First, I shape one side to easily enter the mortise and it should remain square. Second, I shape the tip of the spike so it is round.
Step 14: Part 2 Shaping Spikes
After attempting to place a spike into a mortise I had noticed that my 1/2 x 1/2 Purduk and Purpleheart spike blanks were over-sized by just a touch. To resolve this issue, I taped some 220 grit sand paper to my bench. To find the correct amount of wood removal; I went slowly counting my strokes. My first run was 3 strokes on each side of the spike blank. In the end, I had to stoke the spike blanks on all four sides ten times for the blanks to fit the mortise. I may have gotten away without doing this task, but I felt that it was worth the effort. With adding 8 spikes into a grain line that runs up the bat there was a chance that the wood may have split.
Step 15: Glue and Placing Spikes
In this step, I use CA glue to secure the spikes into place. A liberal amount of CA glue was dabbed on the square end of the spike. I used a mallet to tap the spikes into place and sprayed the CA activator to cure the glue.
Step 16: Finishing
A paste wax type of finishing was used because it is easy to apply on this difficult piece and there is hardly any drying time.
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