Introduction: Zombie Weapon

Picture of Zombie Weapon

This Instructable will demonstrate the process of How to Build a Zombie Weapon. I have taken quite the fine furniture approach by using some exotic scrap woods while avoiding using a rusty saw blades. Therefore the whole piece contains only wood held together by glue. This would be a nice project to be put together using only joinery. (I therefore open the challenge to anyone willing to try.)

Here is the material list to complete this project:

- Ash Wood Approximately 27 x 8 x 1 inches for the base of the bate

- Strips Purpleheart and Purduk approximately 48 x1/2 x 1/2 for the spikes

- Two strips of Purpleheart 10 x 1 x 1/4 - For handle

- One block of Purduk 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1 for a top cap on the bat.

- Wood glue

- CA glue

- Two part five minute epoxy

- Paste wax or any type of finishing

Tools:

- Table saw

- Hand saw

- Belt Sander

- Sandpaper

- Mortiser

- Clamps

- Miter Saw

- Mallet

- Large bar clamp

- Vise (optional)

Step 1: Instructional Video

If you are interested please check out my build video. I feel that between this Instructable and my YouTube video anyone would be able to understand the process to create one on their own. Also, the video is part of a challenge collaboration started by the YouTuber Mike Fulton. This collaboration was inspired by the TV show The Walking Dead. My effort is only 1/25 the overall collaboration so there are 24 other similar project videos.

Step 2: Gather Scrap Wood

Picture of Gather Scrap Wood

In my shop, I have quite the collection of scrap wood. I found a nice piece of Ash approximately 27 x 8 x 1 and a few pieces of Purpleheart and Purduk 3/4 x 3/4.

Step 3: Cutting Scrapwood Down to Size

Picture of Cutting Scrapwood Down to Size

For this step, I use a table saw to cut the Ash Wood into strips approximately 27 x 2 1/2 x 1 and the thin strips of Purpleheart and Purduk are squared up to 48 x 1/2 x 1/2.

Step 4: Cutting and Glueing Ash Wood

Picture of Cutting and Glueing Ash Wood

These few steps will be to build the base of the bat.

First, I cut two of the three ash strips approximately 27 x 2 1/2 x 1 long down to 12 inches lengths.

Second, I glue the sides of remaining long pieces and place the short pieces to one end and clamp until the glue sets.

Step 5: Saw to Square

Picture of Saw to Square

At this point, I saw my base to square lengthwise while removing the excessive glue away.

Also, on the table saw, I cut a 45 degree angle to create a bat-type shape. (Not pictured)

Step 6: Mortisering Out Spike Holes

Picture of Mortisering Out Spike Holes

In this step, I use my mortiser to drill/chisel out 1/2 x 1/2 square holes for tenon spikes. I found that the process was a lot easier if, I drilled out the hole first on my drill press. (The drilling process not pictured)

Cheaper solution - For a similar type of construction, a builder could exchange square pegs for round dowels. This would really be a wise decision since both dowels and drill presses are cheaper/easier to buy.

Step 7: Optional Step - Decorating Handle

Picture of Optional Step - Decorating Handle

In this step, I found some extra scrap of Purpleheart to decorate the handle. By gluing and clamping the piece of Purpleheart approximately 10 x 1 x 1/4 on the long piece of Ash wood to fashion a handle.

Step 8: Handle - Cutting to Shape

Picture of Handle - Cutting to Shape

This step is where the handle is cut into shape. I used a general ripping hand saw to make the long cut and a pricey Japanese dovetail saw to make the difficult angle cut.

Step 9: Bat Head Cap

Picture of Bat Head Cap

In this step, I make the head cap part by cutting a piece of Purduk to the size of 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1 inch. To secure the head cap; I use two part epoxy with a large bar clamp.

Step 10: Shaping Bat Head Cap

Picture of Shaping Bat Head Cap

This step is about shaping the Bat Head Cap. I use my 1x30 belt sander to create the shape that I desire. The first step is to knock off the edges of Purduk to match the shape of the bat. The second step is rounding out the top-most of the bat. What I wanted was a round shape at the tip, and to make the round section flow into the octagon shape of the bat. Simply, I sanded only the Purduk and avoided the Ash wood completely.

Side note: This turned out to be the best looking part of the project especially since I sanded down the project to a 2,000 grit sand paper finish.

Step 11: Quick Tip - Cleaning Sand Paper

Picture of Quick Tip - Cleaning Sand Paper

This picture is where I am using a block of rubber to clean the sanding belt. This is not quite essential to the project but is a good tip on getting the most out of your consumables.

Step 12: Sanding

Picture of Sanding

Sanding - I know is everyone's favorite activity. I started with pure elbow grease but, I later moved on to using an electrical sander clamped into a vise. This trick/hack; I highly recommend it because it will save a lot of time and effort.

Step 13: Part 1 - Cutting and Shaping Spikes

Picture of Part 1 - Cutting and Shaping Spikes

Again, I use my vise to clamp the long strips of Purduk and Purpleheart so they can be easily cut down to size - approximately 1 1/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 inches. After all of the pieces are cut; I use my 1x30 belt sander to shape the spikes in two different ways. First, I shape one side to easily enter the mortise and it should remain square. Second, I shape the tip of the spike so it is round.

Step 14: Part 2 Shaping Spikes

Picture of Part 2 Shaping Spikes

After attempting to place a spike into a mortise I had noticed that my 1/2 x 1/2 Purduk and Purpleheart spike blanks were over-sized by just a touch. To resolve this issue, I taped some 220 grit sand paper to my bench. To find the correct amount of wood removal; I went slowly counting my strokes. My first run was 3 strokes on each side of the spike blank. In the end, I had to stoke the spike blanks on all four sides ten times for the blanks to fit the mortise. I may have gotten away without doing this task, but I felt that it was worth the effort. With adding 8 spikes into a grain line that runs up the bat there was a chance that the wood may have split.

Step 15: Glue and Placing Spikes

Picture of Glue and Placing Spikes

In this step, I use CA glue to secure the spikes into place. A liberal amount of CA glue was dabbed on the square end of the spike. I used a mallet to tap the spikes into place and sprayed the CA activator to cure the glue.

Step 16: Finishing

Picture of Finishing

A paste wax type of finishing was used because it is easy to apply on this difficult piece and there is hardly any drying time.

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