Introduction: Cheap, Nice and Weird A4 Graph Plotter ($25 + Some Scrap)

Updated on Jun 2, 2014

My contest entry was accepted - now you can vote for this project if you like it! Thanks!


Hi there!

At the begining I have to warn you... The solution presented below is quite inefficient and weird. There're some foolish techniques used in this project, e.g. power output stage for the motors or my own PC software. All of these were created mainly for fun and getting skills. It might be quite hard to clone it, but I decided to publish it anyway - just want to share what I made ;). Check the video above to see how my plotter works!

The concept

It's hard to imagine, but in some high schools you still have to draw graphs by hand (computer is a devil's work, of course...). The situation was so annoying, that I decided to build a machine drawing graphs for me :D. It also applies when plotting any Inkscape drawings (exported to HPGL format).

The truth is, I needed a special kind of software - not only for controlling the machine, but also for designing graphs and saving them for future use. That's why I decided to write my own application instead of using an existing CNC software.

I used ATmega16 to control the machine - it receives data via an USB-RS232 converter (FT232) connected to the PC's USB port. The data is sent in frames using my own communication protocol, which will be explained later. For X and Y axis, I found two stepper motors in old scanners. They have an integrated gear, so the torque and resolution are increased without complicating the control. Z axis is a simple electromagnet (removed from an old printer, I suppose). All this stuff is powered by a dual-voltage power supply from a HP printer (+16V for logic and X axis, +32V for Y and Z).

My main goal was to learn as much as I can while building the machine - that's why I was reinventing the wheel a little bit ;).

Parts and tools needed

As I mentioned in the title, the project costs about $25 (I did all the shopping in Poland, prices might be different in other countries). Here's a short list (for info only - I'll describe all needed parts in next steps):

  • controller parts: $7
  • 3 sliders for X and Y axis: $4
  • laser-cut plexiglass parts: $6
  • furniture board (plotter's base): $5
  • magnetic foil: $3
  • some tiny parts (neodymium magnets, M3 screws and nuts): $1

Apart from that, you'll also need some parts removed from other devices. I had some old stuff and here's what I disassembled:

  • bipolar stepper motor (M42SP-7) - an old Plustek scanner
  • unipolar stepper motor (M35SP-7T) - as before
  • electromagnet (TDS-F06A-03) - a laser printer
  • dual-voltage power supply +16V/+32V (HP 0957-2094) - an old printer

The plotter was designed to be easy-to-build without any specialized tools. You'll need:

  • soldering iron
  • scissors
  • sandpaper (120-150 will be ok)
  • hot glue gun
  • some glue (superglue, wood glue, hot glue)

And one more thing before you go to next steps - I'm sorry for terrible photos ^^. My camera sucks and the only solution was to enable flash. Anyway, some of the photos were made with another camera, so they look nicer (I hope).

Step 1: Designing and Assembly Preparation

The project was made in Blender. Yep, that 3D modelling program. And yep, that is weird :D. Actually the only reason is that I know its interface well, what is important since I had a lot of modelling, changing, modelling again... and then changing and starting again. Oh wait... did I mention changing? ^^

The attached file (.blend) was created in Blender 2.49 because I don't like the newer one's interface. I suggest you to download this version, open the file and look around the machine - the basic move can be achieved by using the mouse wheel, SHIFT and CTRL.

The green box is the power supply, the yellow one is the controller, and the blue one is an LCD display.

Amber parts are made of FR4 1mm laminate, and light-blue ones are laser-cut 3mm plexiglass.

Stepper motors, electromagnet and limit switches are dark-grey colored.

There're also some M3 screws, nuts and spacers. And, of course, a fineliner.

All this stuff is mounted on 18mm furniture board (can't name that color, sorry...).

Buying the parts

First of all, you'll need some 18mm furniture board. Buy any color you like - but personally, there's some beauty in black. Here's the dimensions in cm: 35x49, 21x7, 7x7. The last two pieces will be used as a platform for electronics (controller, LCD and power supply).

You'll also need to laser-cut the attached PDF file. Don't worry, it's very cheap at present (even in Poland :D). Just make sure you order 3mm plexiglass.

A word about sliders for X and Y axis - they're just regular ball bearing drawer runners. They're cheap and very precise. Just make sure they are the same dimensions as mine (about 9mm height, 16mm width and 310mm length). You also may have to change grease if motors would be too weak to move the sliders.

Step 2: Making the Controller

Usually, regular CNC controller is just a power amplifier. It is actually controlled by PC (through LPT port). As you can see, this controller is much more complex. It's because PC just sends commands, which are executed by AVR.

Peripherals are controlled by ATmega16. It controls stepper motors (with ULN2803 and L293D) and electromagnet (with IRLML2502). It also monitors limiting switches (JP4) and sends data to LCD.

To communicate with PC, I used FT232RL chip (USB-UART converter). I use my own communication "protocol" to easily send both commands and raw data. Those two TCMT1109 optocouplers are used to electrically isolate PC from the controller (because I accidentally burned ATmega once ^^). USB-UART converter needs to be reprogrammed with FT Prog using XML file attached below. Without doing it LEDs won't indicate what they're supposed to. You can do it when all FT232 parts are soldered.

There are also 4 switches on the PCB. One is for reseting the processor (it was useful while testing), but the rest was mounted for future use to communicate with user. For now the middle switch ("OK") is used to accept the starting command (I'll write more about it later).

Making the PCB

After you etch the PCB, you can tin it (for example with regular solder). I did it with Lichtenberg's alloy - awesomeness level >9000 :D. I suggest you to solder in order shown in the pictures. Here's the part list:

  1. ICs:
    • ATmega16
    • FT232RL
    • L293DD
    • ULN2803
    • TCMT1109 x2
    • 7805
  2. Resistors:
    • 47
    • 100 x3
    • 330
    • 1k x2
    • 2k4 x2
    • 4k7 x3
    • 10k
  3. Capacitors:
    • 22p x2
    • 100n x4
    • 330n
    • 2u2
    • 4u7
    • 100u
  4. Transistors:
    • IRLML2502
    • BC857 x2
  5. Diodes:
    • LL4148
    • LED RED
    • LED GREEN x2
  6. Pin headers:
    • 1x2 x4
    • 1x3
    • 1x5
    • 1x6 x2
    • 2x4
    • jumper x2
  7. Other:
    • 5k potentiometer
    • 16MHz crystal
    • momentary switch x4
    • USB mini B connector
    • AK500/3 connector
    • 2-channel switch
    • 16x2 LCD display

The last photo presents my mistake while designing the controller. I forgot the pullup resistors for optocouplers' outputs. That was extremely decreasing transmission speed, so I had to solder 2 additional resistors. But don't worry, that was fixed and the PCB in rar is complete.

Programming the AVR

The file attached below contains PCB project in Eagle, software written in C, compiled hex file and XML file for FT232RL.

As you can see, there're 6 extra pads in the PCB. You are able to program the AVR with them - just solder some wires (they're described in Eagle file, so make sure you connect propper lines. Before you program the chip, set its fusebits to:

  • low: 0xEE
  • high: 0x99

They're just default values with changed CKSEL bits to 16MHz external crystal.

Some info about source code

It's not so easy to control all this stuff by just one AVR. The most difficult part was generating XY movement signals when both X and Y axis were in move. 16MHz crystal was almost too slow, but eventually it's working quite good.

The second hard part was communication with PC. I had to write my own communication protocol via UART. It's similar to AT commands, but requires much less memory and it's faster, since its command codes and arguments are single bytes (instead of strings, like in AT).

The source code was compiled with avr-gcc. It's commented well, I suppose, but I know it's still easy to get lost. There are some additional functions which practically aren't used - for example drawing rectangle, arc or some text. I wrote it just to get some skills ;). Anyway, you still will be able to execute these commands by "command-line window" in PC software to see the effects.

Step 3: Electromagnet Holder

It's time to build mechanical part of the machine... we'll start from Z axis.

First of all, find plexiglass parts presented on the first picture. Besides that, you'll need 4 M3 screws and nuts and 3 pieces of laminate. Just cut them with scissors. Their dimensions should be similar, but not have to be equal.

On the second picture you can see how bad the parts were cut. Apparently someone didn't take into account the width of the laser beam. Actually, all parts are a bit smaller than I ordered... Anyway, I had to wipe off the sides of this part with sandpaper.

Let's start gluing! I used superglue for all plexiglass parts. Next, you need to glue the smaller laminate rectangle. It's just a spacing between plexiglass and electromagnet. You can see that I modified the holes for screws. As I said, parts were a little out of scale and electromagnet didn't fit. For now, leave the rest of laminate parts. We will use them in the next step.

On the last photo, there's an additional part mounted with 2 screws. It will be used to hold the paper, but we'll do it later.

Step 4: Y Axis

Use the technique presented before to glue all the parts. Blender file will be helpful if you feel lost.
When gluing plexiglass to the slider, make the surfaces more rugged with sandpaper. Just make sure that no metal filings fell inside the slider. After that, you should clean the surfaces with isopropanol (for the metal one you can also use acetone).

Mounting the toothed belt

The simplest way to do it is to use a small zip tie. Zip the first end to the electromagnet holder (pass the belt through those two rectangular holes). Then, place the belt on the gears, stretch it and zip the end just like the first one. Make sure it isn't stretched too loose neither too tight.

Mounting the limit switches

Glue the limit switches just like presented on the pictures (about 3mm beyond the plexiglass). This red-brown cable is dragged inside the slider. Now we will need the laminate parts from the previous step. Glue it to the electromagnet box so they can click the switches.

Soldering the diode and some cables

As you can see in the photo, I soldered a diode nearby the coil. When a coil is changing its state, it may generate high voltage. The diode just shorts this voltage spike. It's very important to solder the wires corectly - diode's cathode must be connected to positive potential - for me it's a yellow cable.

On the next photo there's a description and colors of all cables. There are stepper motor cables (Y+, Y1, Y2, Y3, Y4), electromagnet cables (Z+, Z-) and limit switches cables (2x Ymin, 2x Ymax). Ymin is a switch nearby the motor.

The last photo presents a 12-wire cable with description of its connections. The red cable indicates the Z+ line, what makes it harder to mistake the direction. You can glue the header with glue gun to make it more safe.

Step 5: X Axis

And here comes the most difficult step...
You need to mount two sliders as parallel as possible. First of all, sand the sliders' surfaces. You can also sand the base a bit. After cleaning, use wood glue (or similar) to stick the first slider directly at the edge of the base. The picture above shows the dimensions.

To stick the second slider, you'll need something with 242 mm width. It must have parallel edges. As you could see, I'm not always can explain what you need to do. Just follow the images :).

Mounting the Y axis

Wait some time to make sure parallel sliders are glued well. After that - as always - sand and clean the surfaces. Use super glue for this (because of plexiglass). To measure the right angle, use the furniture board base - it should match. Try to glue it as perpendicular as you can, because this affects the look of all the drawings. It's important not to move the sliders until it's completely glued (give it a couple of hours).

Mounting the X stepper motor and limit switches

Meanwhile, you can mount the X motor. Just follow the pictures. Gray 12-wire cable can be glued to the base with wood glue.

Step 6: Fineliner Ending and Paper Holder

Honestly, this step was improvised by me. This white "arm" is made of 5mm foamed PVC. It can be made of anything, I just had nothing else to do this.

The laminate parts have an 8mm hole, which is perfect for my fineliner. Use hot glue gun to mount it. The fineliner should be gently pressed against the sheet by the arm (due to the spring placed at the back of the electromagnet). You may have to repeat the gluing several times.

When you finish the first laminate part, place the PVC arm and the second part and glue it. After the glue cools, you should be able to pull the arm with a little resistance. Then glue it to the electromagnet's ending.

Mounting the paper holder

This part is designed to prevent paper wrinkling. As I said - I improvised a lot in this step :). Follow me!

I decided to mount a magnetic foil as a working area. It has a smoother surface than furniture board and now I can fasten the sheet using small neodymium magnets. If you also want to do it, then you should mount the foil before you start this step. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of it...

Step 7: Mounting All Together

On the second photo you can see a "bridge" made of laminate - it's made because the slider may catch on cables. There're also two 5W 15Ohm resistors soldered in series with the X stepper motor's coils. I had to lower the motor's current, but I moved these resistors later (shown in the last two photos). Just connect every goldpin socket as presented above.

Mounting the sheet holders

The sheet needs to be holded in constant position. Use scissors to cut these "corners" in laminate and sand them to about 0.2mm height. I mounted them with double-sided adhesive tape, set the exact positions and then glued with super glue. To determine positions, you need to draw lines from begining to end of each axis (simply remove the toothed belts, insert the pen and move it by hand along each axis).

Step 8: PC Software

As I mention in the intro, I had to write my own software. It's my first app in Visual C#, so I think it's full of mistakes ^^. I've never write multi-thread applications and I'm almost sure that many of my solutions are "more single-thread".

The application was written to simply design multiple charts and communicate with the controller via virtual COM port. In the attached file, there is full project ready to open in Visual C#. It is quite well commented - but, unfortunately, in polish only. The whole app is in polish, too. There is too much to translate and I'm pretty sure that noone will use this solution anyway :D.

Here is the list of available commands in command line window:

  • returnxy - returns to the home position setz z - lowers (z=0) or raises (z=1) the pen
  • setxy x y - moves the pen at specified position (in mm)
  • _setxy x y - moves the pen at specified position (in steps, check application settings)
  • getz - returns 1 if pen is raised, 0 otherwise
  • getxy - returns pen's position (in mm)
  • selectpen - waits until user clicks OK button
  • rect x1 y1 x2 y2 - draws a rectangle based on 2 opposite vertices (in mm)
  • arc x y r a1 a2 t - draws an arc with center at (x,y), radius r, begining angle a1 and ending angle a2 (from horizontal); draws a regular arc (t=0) or a pie (t=1) - values in mm and degrees
  • text x y size spacing text - draws some text at (x,y), of given size and character spacing

Almost forgot. To run the application, you need .NET Framework 4 installed.


Updated on July 21, 2014

At your request, I decided to translate the application. Well, maybe it's not perfect, but most features are now in english.

Step 9: Final Thoughts

This instructable shows an alternative way to CNC control. I don't urge anyone to use solutions presented in previous steps. I just made something and I find it interesting enough to show here. But it doesn't change the fact that this machine isn't effective. I've learned a lot while doing this project. It was amazing (and sometimes annoying). I'm glad I did a drawing machine completely by my own (weird) idea.

By the way - I proved that ATmega16 and the simplest power output stages are enough to plot A4 drawings! You don't even need a computer for it (if you get second AVR to read and parse data from SD card).

Anyway, controlling stepper motor should be improved. It generates huge amount of heat. Someone suggested that I should send a PWM signal while motors aren't moving (e.g. when waiting for a command). It's quite good, but this project is not worth next days of coding. ;)

Ok, it's time to end. I'll be glad to answer your questions. And if you interested in this project, maybe you'll like some of my others. Check this out: .

Thanks for your time! Bye!


vaibhav+hayaran made it!(author)2016-09-22

i want to make it. are those motor Nd gear Assemblies available or you salvaged?

Gaetano_C made it!(author)2016-02-11

Hello Mopsoik

Love your creativity, I understand how you plotted the graphs using the software you created. Can you please tell me how you created the images and also how you sent that information to the Arduino so it can be plotted, thank you.


DLSguy made it!(author)2014-06-02

You have my vote! I am a programmer by profession and I am always interested in Instructables that uses C# to interface microcontrollers. Your code is easy to follow, except for the comments, can't read a lick of Polish even though my grandfather was born there. If I get around to building this I will take a look at the multi-threading sections, sometimes it takes a lot of tweaking!

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-02

Hah right, I'm definitely a single-thread programmer :D. Thanks for the comments, guys!

ayadav29 made it!(author)2015-10-07

awesome project but instead of that yellow board thing that controls everything can't we use any aurdino.

mopsiok made it!(author)2015-10-10

You could use Arduino if you use external drivers for stepper motors. Otherwise you won't have enough GPIOs to run all of the original features. Somewhere below I described it a little bit more precisely if you were interested.

Not to mention that the "yellow board thing" is a lot cheaper than a combination of arduino + external electronics :). But as I said, it is completely possible to build a graph ploter with arduino (and it have been done already)

Andrei_96i made it!(author)2015-06-15

Grazie a te, ho realizzato un prototipo (utilizzata per la tesina d'esame) con l'utilizzo di Arduino, Ramps 1.4 e Drivers A4988.

Thanks you, I made a prototype (used for the essay exam) with the use of Arduino, Ramps 1.4 Drivers and A4988.

mopsiok made it!(author)2015-10-10

Hey, I'm very happy to hear that! Nice job! It's nice that you used a regular stepper motor driver, I bet it works a lot better than my solution :).

And sorry for answering so late, somehow I missed the notification...

dhananjaya+banda made it!(author)2015-03-11

thank you!!!its very helpful to me...

Wirajayus made it!(author)2015-01-28

wow that's really nice, i love it. can i buy it from you?

dan3008 made it!(author)2015-01-19

oh how I wish I had the time and money to make one of these... But sadly, a printer is just that much easier and quicker lol

Skymag made it!(author)2014-11-26

Nice project ! I will use some of your techniques ! Thx :)

Jan_Henrik made it!(author)2014-11-06

Thats epic, im building my milling maschine right now, i may will use this! :)

power000 made it!(author)2014-11-02

Hello friend, that is wonderful !!! I am going to make it. I want to use this atmega ,instead of smd ,i suppose i can.I will make my own pcb.

I have make rep rap, it is similar but more complex thank you

I may need help in coding ,see you around.

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-08-24

Thanks for your comment! It's nice to hear that :). I live in Cracow, it's about 300km south-west from Warsaw.

mikeklepacz made it!(author)2014-08-24

What city are you in in Poland? I am American living in Warsaw. I dig this. I have one instructable. This one is so thorough.

michaelgc made it!(author)2014-08-22

If I could find some of those old parts lying around this would be an awesome project for my stem class.

trgwan_2006 made it!(author)2014-07-21

hello , i'm interesting in the project , and i'm going to design it soon , but before i wanna ask about some things ,

first i wanna ask if you can translate the prog to english .

and what if we can control the cnc with arduino , i can program it ....

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-07-21


I translated to english most labels, buttons etc. There may be some untranslated text, but evidently it's not important from user's point of view. I hope it will help you!

I never used Arduino, so I don't know if you can use my firmware with it.

trgwan_2006 made it!(author)2014-07-21

i can see , you used

ATmega16 ic , and arduino using atmega328p-pu . so this arduino is better ,

anyway , let me know how it work in order to try to control the machine using arduino ,

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-07-21

I wouldn't say it's better - it is just different :). The thing is, atmega328 doesn't have enough I/O pins to control all this stuff. There is 24 I/O pins which need to be handled. Mega328 has only 22, and thats when you don't use crystal as a clock signal. Of course you don't need to use LCD, but you still have to adjust the code for arduino.

You can read about principles of operation in the AVR source code (it's commented in english).

trgwan_2006 made it!(author)2014-07-21
trgwan_2006 made it!(author)2014-07-21

i need the circuit controller which you draw to print it ....

jeronimo1495 made it!(author)2014-07-12

Please, ansewer me Where did you learn to program all this thin?, damn, it's beautiful. Can you suggest me book or reference sources of information so i can learn to program all of this from zero, i'll wait for your answer, again, beatiful work

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-07-13

Thanks for your opinion, I'm very happy you like it! First, I bought a book about AVR programming for beginners. I made some "projects" in Bascom, then I started learning C. When you got the basics, you can learn everything else from the internet, so you don't need to buy another books. That's my way to learn AVRs. :)

farazjz made it!(author)2014-06-05

and how can i write c# application for g code????

that will be my university projects :-(

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-06

Gcode may be too complex to be used with this plotter. My machine only accepts commands like "move the pen", "raise the pen" etc. Gcode has much more options, including speed control, Z axis positioning (more like X and Y axis, not 1-bit lower/raise commands) and something like that.

Anyway, I never used gcode, so I don't know it well. But I suppose it can't be used in this solution. Maybe you should export your drawing to HPGL format, which is supported (actually, I handled only a couple of commands which are used by Inkscape HPGL exporting tool: PU, PD and SP).
Hope I helped you.

hirnwunde made it!(author)2014-06-26

I don't think you had to implement all available G-Codes.

For this project the two commands G0 (full speed move) G1 (drawing speed move) should sufficient. All feeds can be static programmed (maybe G0=100mm/sec and G1=20mm/sec)

To lower or raise the pencil you can use a "G1 Z0" (lower the pen) respectively "G1 Z1" (raise the pen)

btw: Great project!
greetings from the neighboring country (germany)

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-27

Of course you don't need all g code commands, but current AVR software doesn't accept different speeds anyway. You just move the pen. Even the maximum speed is pretty slow (faster movement caused "step loss"), so I didn't had to program a slower value for drawing.

Anyway, current software is unable parse g code commands at all. It's written for HPGL only. But you can write it yourself, I think my parser is pretty clear-written, so it shouldn't be a trouble for you to change HPGL to g code commands. Look into parser.cs file.

farazjz made it!(author)2014-06-06

Thank you so so so.... much brother and nice too meet Sir
Best Regards

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-06

You're welcome! Glad I helped you, and good luck! :)

farazjz made it!(author)2014-06-06

First thank you for your kindly answer.This is great and it has really good quality plotting. How can i convert to hpgl and how to write c# app for send command???
Please helpme teachme :-) ?

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-06

I don't know that, sorry :D. As I said, I never used gcode. Anyway, you can parse a HPGL file via my program (look at parser.cs file in the source code). It only accepts 3 commands, because it was enought for Inkscape. You may need to modify the parser if some commands aren't supported.

nandoi2c made it!(author)2014-06-16

Very well work, a questio i can not open a .plt file please, tell me some tip for open this file. I design file in corel and export to Hpgl (plt).

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-16

I never used Corel for this so I can't help you. As far as I know, PLT is just another name for HPGL, so maybe you should try importing it to Inkscape and then exporting to HPGL. As I mention above, I wrote my app to handle just 3 HPGL commands which are used by Inkscape. Maybe your file containts some commands which are not supported. I hope you will open the file soon :).

aimenbadi made it!(author)2014-06-13

i don't understand anything

SuperPollo made it!(author)2014-06-08

Very interesting and smart instructable, I love it.

chris1951 made it!(author)2014-06-07

Fantastyczny project I bardzo dobre instrukcje,

abreuma made it!(author)2014-06-07

Nice project. Nice video. Several years ago, where I work, we had a measurement device that produced results via 2-pen HP plotters that worked very much like this. One color for the grid and the other for the data.

Timofte+Andrei made it!(author)2014-06-07

this project is so cool that it needs to be replicated using arduino as controller!

Franciscodr made it!(author)2014-06-07

Congratulations! Great work and documentation! Thanks for sharing!

souza_neto made it!(author)2014-06-06

Drogi Przyjacielu,

Jestem z Brazylii i używam Google Translator napisać tę wiadomość.

Nazywam się Souza Neto.

Która wersja C #, który został użyty? Chciałbym spróbować przetłumaczyć na język portugalski w Brazylii. Jak mogę abrilo w C # i ponownie skompilować z odpowiednimi tłumaczenia?

Dziękuję za uwagę.

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-07

Hi Souza!

You should use an english translator, I'm sure it's working better than polish one. The application was written in Miscrosoft Visual C# 2010 Express (it's free). You won't be able to run my app without .NET Framework 4 (I'm not sure if it's automatically installed with Visual C#). When you open the project (.sln file), you can edit every widget's text via "Properties" window (the property is usually called "text"). Some of the text are defined inside the code, but if I remember correctly, these one aren't so important.

When you press F5, the project will be compiled and run in debug mode. The final .exe file will appear in <project directory>/bin/debug/ .

Hope it will be helpful!

gada888 made it!(author)2014-06-06

Nice project,Do you sell the main board?What software you used in programming it.

Gabry295 made it!(author)2014-06-06

Oh god! That's what I ever dreamed!

To make school technical drawings :D

lr10cent made it!(author)2014-06-05

Impressive!! Keep good records of this. They may be helpful if you need to convince someone how competent you are in the future.

I'm allergic to C, and I can't seem to do electronics much past V=IR, although the mechanical design is easy for me. But you can do all three of those things.Bravo!

P.S. Somehow I think your teachers will figure out that your graphs aren't hand drawn, unless you can add small random errors to your plotting coordinates. ;-)

mopsiok made it!(author)2014-06-06

Thanks a lot, your comments are very encouraging :).

The truth is that I had more problems with the mechanical part than the electronics, and there are some mistakes which make troubles with using the machine. If I have to build anything CNC related, I'll keep in mind my experiences from this project.

As you said, I suppose my teachers can figure out that's drawn by a machine. But they actually don't care :D.

boocat made it!(author)2014-06-05

Marvelous! Bet you're going to do something interesting later in life.

farazjz made it!(author)2014-06-05

that's awesome amaziiiiing. i never seen cnc machine with AVR before.

how can i learn more about how can build cnc by AVR.

any books or article?

because i want build cnc by AVR for my university projects .

pleaseeeeeee help me :-( ;-)

Brutus+Ultimatum made it!(author)2014-06-05

This thing is awesome, nice work on this project dude! I've got an old printer that I'm gonna take apart and try to do something similar with.

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