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but a grinder is more fun.
so i cut a big enough hole to remove the contents.
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as a locksmith i have had my fair share of callouts to these type of safes and if its old or tired or flat batteries then its a method i use all the time and has worked every time, if its a forgotton code then i use the bypass method to re set the code. hope this is of some help to you,
and if you dont have a heat gun or a hair dryer just try to move the safe over to a radiator or any form of heater and let it sit there for a while, but always let it cool for ten minutes or so for best results.
All sounds straightforward with a hairdryer, however, what part do you heat? I have a Pregex small safe, electronic, low batteries beeping but not enough energy to open. Plastic front with turn knob and keypad. Have taken off the plastic bit which covers the lock and heated it and heated to the side of the plastic keypad directly onto the door, but am I aiming in the right place? I have never clocked where the batteries are inside....have our passports inside, so would appreciate any advice at this stage! I also never bolted, so like the idea of a knitting needle, but no idea where the little red button inside is either. And yes, I am a dippy woman who should've changed the batteries along time ago (no idea where the key is either!). Many thanks in advance.
I have a similar safe (with electronic keypad but it also has a key which is impossible to copy) and I have mine bolted on the wall AND on the ground so all the holes are covered.
The safe also has a special key that you use in case the batteries run out (which are external, and the place for the special key is behind the batteries).
Is there any way for a thief to open the safe without first removing it from the wall/ceiling or force opening it (like with a grinder)?
Needless to say I have changed the default combination and both the key and the special key are not in the house..
tom
If mankind can design it, mankind can break it - Don't be so sure the key cannot be copied for one thing, or the lock picked for that matter.
As a locksmith, I am limited in what I can say - Not all safes are the same, so I cannot be sure without knowing the make and model of your safe (nor do I want to know, and nor is it safe to post such information on here anyway...) but there are almost certainly other methods of entry.
Your security comes in those methods being known by very few people and generally only known by trusted, honest individuals who will not rob anyone.
Security follows the law of dimishing returns. You can get some security by just printing a sign that says "Do Not Enter" and costs almost nothing. Greater security than that, costs progressively more and more money, for smaller and smaller increases.
One way to test your welds.... Take the piece and put a load on it. If the material breaks before the weld -- your weld is good ;) That's how catrike tested their welds (after all of their FEA and such :P).