As a seasoned printer, friends and acquaintances consistently ask me if i can print shirts, cards, etc. for them. Usually, however, they only need a few things printed at a time, and it doesn't really justify the time/cost of doing it the "right way."
I conceived this method of printing so it could be shared with anyone who wants to print short, inexpensive runs on any substrate, without having to deal with the space and economic constraints of setting up a whole studio.
Most of the supplies for this project would usually end up in a landfill, and can be found completely for free.
Usually one can get 20 or more successful prints with this method, which seems to be sufficient for most small projects.

Step 1: Supplies

For this project, we will need some tools and supplies that are easily available, and a few that might require the tiniest bit of searching....

Recycling is key here. Most of the supplies required can be found as trash, including the ink. What isn't direct waste can be recycled from thrift stores or garage sales.

Staple Gun (almost any size will do)
X-acto Knife, or Utility knife (you could use a plain razor blade in a pinch)
Heat Gun or a Hair Dryer
Plastic Putty Knife
Small Container for mixing

'Spray Adhesive
Any old picture frame as long as it is bigger than your image. (ideally you can find this in the trash)
Water based paint or ink of any type (recycle! use old housepaint that would end up in the landfill/water table without you!
Some sort of ink retarder
-I used "Floetrol" which is sold in most hardware stores as a latex paint wetting agent. It is around 6$ for the bottle. You can also use straight glycerine, which is available at most drug stores for a dollar or two for a small bottle.
Adhesive Backed Sign Vinyl (any color)
-This is available from many arts and crafts stores, but sign shops generate so much scrap every day that if you ask them nicely, they will almost certainly just give you some. If you don't want to ask, check the dumpster, because thats where it will end up. This material is the garbage left behind by the modern printing industry. it is a shame that it doesn't get re-used more.
Screen Printing Fabric (a piece bigger than your old picture frame)
-This is available in various mesh counts from dickblick.com, again screenprinting shops can help you out if you ask nicely, and their dumpsters can be messy, but fruitful.
-If you are adventurous, you can experiment with different fabrics from the scrap bin at the fabric store and use that instead of genuine screen fabric.
Substrate (stuff to print on)
-Paper, Shirts, other textiles, bags, napkins, underpants, and just about anything else that is reasonably flat will work fine.

<p>Really like how you created the stencil out of the photo ;) thanks for sharing!</p>
Here's the part I don't understand: how do you simply &quot;Peel the vinyl stencil and stick it directly to the bottom of the screen&quot; without the small cut-out bits of the stencil falling off or going askew, or narrow cut-out lines no longer lining up neatly as the backing is peeled away? <br>As you noted previously, the paper backing is the only thing holding the vinyl pieces together and in the correct locations. Is there a trick to removing it without disturbing the position of the vinyl parts? <br>It seems as though you'd have to be VERY careful to design it as a one-piece stencil, and even then you'd end up having to fiddle with the smaller cut-out bits to re-align them on the screen before burnishing. Or am I missing something obvious here?
hi! i just wanted to let you know that because i like this instructable so much, i have added it to my silkscreen guide... <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/silkscreen-printing-easy-and-cheap/" rel="nofollow">http://www.instructables.com/id/silkscreen-printing-easy-and-cheap/</a><br> <br> thanks for sharing your ideas!
I like to learn something new every day. Nice hand made work <a href="http://www.tobaccoandcigarettes.net/" rel="nofollow" title="online cigarettes">Cheap Cigarettes</a>
um, would water based paint mean it isn't permanent or?
About as permanent as the paint on your house. :-) Water based for easy cleanup, but once it dries it is permanent.
ah thanks for clearing that up:)
the difference is that water based paint dissolves into other things, breaks down with time and is not as strong. This is why its used for indoors, it also has no volatile compounds or cancer giving fumes. Oil and petroleum- synthetic paints are used outside the house or in other applications.<br /> <br /> Because the clothes will wear with time, so will the paint so its no prob. and whatever breaks down will dissolve in the detergent as you wash them.<br />
so you cant wash the shirt or printed clothing or the thing will deteriorate? or does it last a few washes?
No more so than any of your other clothes. All clothing deteriorates some when it is washed; especially if you machine dry instead of line dry.
What about tie-dye dye?
yes you can wash water based paints once they dry, they just kinda wear out a bit quicker than oil paint.
Wow-- really? Vinyl? That's all? No need for that expensive screen filler or whatever?! SO COOL, THANKS!!
interesting method you developed her, yet I feel like it defies the very idea of screen-printing, where the screen allows you to have a stencil with shapes not attached to anything around. Like with a hole cut-out all around. See what I mean? The problem would be the way you transfer the vinyl to the screen. I can't seem to see anyway to get it transfered with shapes completely cut around, without the good ol' &quot;right way&quot;.
after cutting, put masking tape on the vinyl before you transfer it...
Yeah, I should have thought of this. I made a vinyl stencil with text for my bike frame once. What was I thinking ?
This is a fantatsic Instructable. Out of curiosity, would housepaint crack, or how long would the life of a shirt be if I used a water based house paint?
lol he be eetinz dat chickn <br>and i lold at teh site LOL
A good way to not get you all confused with the image takes but a few image editing steps. Basically, you set the contrast to 100% in a grayscale image. You might as well print it out in 'Draft' or whatever in order to save ink, though.
Great instructable, luckily I have access to a vinyl cutter. But, not to the ink, I can only get paint from hardware store. What paint could work for printing t shirts? I need to print white on black tshirts. Any suggestions?
I sometimes use speedball fabric paint to print white on black. I made some Harry Potter shirts for the 7th movie and they turned out great. I DID make two passes on the shirts though, to make sure the color was bright enough.
Would it work to use an Embroidery Frame for this, especially if you are only going to do a few?
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could contact paper work instead of vinyl? good tutorial though
Very excellent, I have long wondered about the mysteries of screen printing, and you may have just saved me an entire semester learning it. I in no way want to be a professional screen printer, but i've often wanted to make my own t-shirts and junk, and with this i now can...thanks!
i know these materials and process is mainly for clothing. but would drawing paper or even canvas work for designs using these materials? please respond thanks :)
One of the best fabrics to use for screen printing is sheer drapery panels that are 100% polyester. I took a class with Kerr Grabowski who has several DVDs out on screenprinting for art quilts. She makes all her own screens with either 2x2 lumber or old canvas stretcher bars glued together, that is polyurethaned first and then she uses the drapery fabric over it. Very cheap since you can find lots of them at thrift stores. Color of fabric doesn't matter. If it tears or is otherwise destroyed, it can be quickly replaced at no more expense. Some of her screens are the size of a real screen door! Some have a total screen size of 6 square inches. Her work is wonderful. See also screen ides by Jane Dunnewold, Claire Benn and Leslie Morgan.
If put on napkins would it be dangerous?
<p>Assuming you mean cloth napkins,<br /> There should be no problem since as previously stated, water based paints are not harmful and will break up&nbsp;even if injested. However, just to make sure, after you finish your prints and dry them, give the napkins&nbsp;a quick wash.<br /> Smart way to look at this great&nbsp;instructable by the way</p>
why not use some fabric paint. you can buy it in tubs of about 1oz for around $1 at walmart or craft stores like joanns
probably less dangerous than some lipsticks etc.
maybe...i would be hesitant to use house paint on napkins for my mouth or hands or whatever, but it probably isn't tooooo bad?
I think most house paints are water-based acrylic and that's pretty much exactly what textile inks and a lot of screen printing inks are.
for Napkins, I'd suggest experimenting with vegetable inks/dyes - or maybe even food colouring, though I don't vouch for it's colourfastness...<br />
really good clear instructable with lots of helpful photos. nice job! thanks heaps.
what sort of fabric is screen printing fabric?
&nbsp;Hmmm... I wonder if this would work on a skateboard... Anybody tried that or have have an opinion on it?
It will work... it is a flat surface.&nbsp; Silkscreen is usually how they put images on a brand new board.<br />
&nbsp;are you sure because the edges of the board curve up a bit (to form the &quot;concave&quot; of the board that gives you that locked in feeling
Yeah, I am real sure... Have you ever seen the Powell &amp; Peralta move called, <em>Bones Brigade-Future Primitive</em>? It shows skateboards being designed by pro boarders (Caballero) with the silk screening process.<br /> <br /> If you are not sure about your design or if it will work on your deck, you might consider using scrap wood to test it first.<br />
&nbsp;yeah i'll try that, it sounds good, i am intrigued by the process and if i can figure out how to do it easily, i'll post my results.
you can actually make a convex frame but its a pain. the other way is to roll the surface as you print it (also a pain). that is how they print oil drums (with machines). the screen will probably have enough give to it that it will get decent coverage, just squeege from side to side instead of top to bottom.<br><br>just making a stencil out of paper/acetate etc and using spray adhesive would probably be easiest.
If it is just the one board, then you could attach the vinyl directly to the deck...<br />
That sounds like a good idea, i've been experimenting with painters tape made stuck together to make a sheet, but the vinyl one-piece sheet idea sounds good. Will it stick to the wood though?
a skateboard is not a flat surface. the concave/convex makes it difficult to screen with this method. <a href="http://jbdskateboards.com/pages/images/concaveL.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://jbdskateboards.com/pages/images/concaveL.jpg</a><br /> unless you just want to do the nose or tail. and i dont get why you had to make the screen, when you ended up cutting the stencil anyways. I mean, you could have cut this out of a cereal box and dabbed the paint on with a rag or sponge and saved time and money. i get the vibe that your instructable is about a quick process, but i guess stencilling isn't screenprinting... also, im glad you atleast made your stencil by hand instead&nbsp;of photoshopping it, even though im not really diggin it.
good name... inlikeflint....<br />
Thanks... <br />

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