Step 3: Making the joint
BOARD SELECTION
i started by selecting the two planks that had come from the log with the slight curve in it .the pattern i used i based off of the classic boomerang shape .place the two boards on top of one another and position them so the pattern fits allowing for some "fudge" room .one you have them how they need to go clamp them tight so they don't move .then draw a line on each side of the two boards so you will know where the excess that needs to be cut off is ,and where make the lap joint
MAKING THE LAP JOINT
i wanted the lap joint to go half way threw the board .rather then messing with a tape measure and figuring out what the half way measurement would be .i took a piece of paper and held it to the side of the board .marked a line where the top and bottom of the board meet .folded the paper in half so the two lines met and i then had a perfect reference guide for setting the height of the table saw blade .i used a test piece and the resulting joint was not flush .i later found out it was due to the saw blade .the profile of the blade wouldn't allow it to cut a square cut .though it wasn't evident just from looking at the blade .so the resulting joint had to be smoothed using my micro plane before gluing
i started by selecting the two planks that had come from the log with the slight curve in it .the pattern i used i based off of the classic boomerang shape .place the two boards on top of one another and position them so the pattern fits allowing for some "fudge" room .one you have them how they need to go clamp them tight so they don't move .then draw a line on each side of the two boards so you will know where the excess that needs to be cut off is ,and where make the lap joint
MAKING THE LAP JOINT
i wanted the lap joint to go half way threw the board .rather then messing with a tape measure and figuring out what the half way measurement would be .i took a piece of paper and held it to the side of the board .marked a line where the top and bottom of the board meet .folded the paper in half so the two lines met and i then had a perfect reference guide for setting the height of the table saw blade .i used a test piece and the resulting joint was not flush .i later found out it was due to the saw blade .the profile of the blade wouldn't allow it to cut a square cut .though it wasn't evident just from looking at the blade .so the resulting joint had to be smoothed using my micro plane before gluing
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eyankura says:
Feb 3, 2011. 11:08 AMReply
Radial arm saws are nice for lap joints. A bit overkill, but nice. That way, you are not working blind.
Mungerbees says:
Jul 6, 2009. 11:36 AMReply
Would it be possible to use a wood router to make the lap joint?
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somebullcrap (author) says:
Jul 6, 2009. 2:52 PMReplysure you could you a router to make the lap joint .ideally using it on a router table for precision .and the tongue groove was cut for the purpose of reinforcing the crack .but it does provide extra strength for the tips which is where the majority of impacts occur have i inspired you to make a boomerang of your own?
Mungerbees says:
Jul 6, 2009. 10:03 PMReply
Excellent! I have a router table! Yes, you have inspired me! I'm working on making a kalimba right now, which should be done soon. And right after that I'm going to attempt to make this boomerang! Thanks for the Instructable! :)
Mungerbees says:
Jul 6, 2009. 10:06 PMReply
Also, did you ever find out if it really works?
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somebullcrap (author) says:
Jul 7, 2009. 9:38 AMReplyunfortunately i still have not had a chance and a good day to test it .the days good to test i always seem to be busy .and when i'm not busy and want to test it we have winds blowing at 15mph
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