The bulk of this instructable is about creating the concrete base. There isn't much on the electronics - as there is so much already out there about using micros and LEDs.
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Signing UpStep 1Making the mould
- be heavy,
- have adjustable feet,
- have recessed panels for the controls and power,
- have integrated tubes that will accept the aluminium loops for the fabric form.
Tubes for the aluminium supports were held in place with short lengths of the aluminium rod (also keeps the concrete out). Nuts for the front panels and LED plate were also cast into the concrete.
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One thing. You said: "I didn't use gravel, just sand and concrete". What I'm think you meant to say was "I didn't use gravel, just sand and cement". An engineer should know better! :-D
And yes, I know I'm nit-picking! Its what I do... ;-)
To clarify these frequently misused terms we're all guilty of mixing-up (pardon the pun) for everyone: 'concrete' is the end product produced by mixing 'cement' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portland_cement) with aggregate (generally a mix of sand and gravel or variations thereon - though other materials can be used, for example, papercrete is made with pulped fiber - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papercrete).
Again, very nice project Matthew!
I can't quite remember what I used. If I was doing it now I'd use mosfets because they won't waste power (very low on resistance).
A lot of integrated RGB LEDs have a common anode or cathode (so only 4 pins). This means you need either an N (common anode) or P ( common cathode) channel mosfet.
If you're driving 3 separate LEDs then it doesn't matter, just get the LED and mosfet in the right configuration.
Here's a link to a circuit that is for common anode using N channel mosefets.
http://tobiscorner.floery.net/projects/avr/tinyrgb/powerrgb/70