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i made a ghetto programmer with the help of the real elliot's instructable

the real elliots programmer

but i thought it was handy to have just 1 programmer for all the attiny i wanted to program, so i made that, and here are the pictures.

the first picture is showing the programmer from the down side. i used single cored wires for this, as it adds extra strength for putting in the wires. that way i can change what attiny im programming. in this picture it is set to the attiny13 (with 8 pins)

the second picture is a view from above, showing the attiny13 in place and the outer female connectors for quick breaboard connections, or other ways to test my program

the third picture shows the complete package, the programming board, the attached USB is only for the 5V power (scavenged from a old printer-USB cable.) the cable on the right is for connecting it to the computer (of course) since i mistakenly ordered a female printer port (yeah, i know its stupid...)

the fourth picture shows 2 datasheets (attiny13 and attiny2313) so that i know which wire i need to put in where...

and the last picture shows the downside again, just without anything attached, so that you can see the stripped wires.

please note that if you want to make one yourself, its really a pain to solder the female connectors on the down side the way i did. well, not the soldering part, but mainly the keeping the connectors from connecting to each other...

every part i used is clearly visible, but i wanted to add that the proto board i used isnt connecting 1 pin to another, so i had to make the connections myself, i did this with clipped leads from leds that i used in another project, but if you try this yourself, make sure the holes are not covered (since things must come trough) and that they are not making contact with other leads (since that disturbs the programming)

also, make sure you point out pin 1 at both sides, so you cannot make any stupid mistakes there...

the last thing i need to add is that you have to check, check and check everything again, not only with the (naked) eye, but mostly with a multimeter, every time you have soldered one part to the board. some connections are to small to see!
the easyest way to do this is simply take a multimeter, set it to resistance (is that even and excisting english word?) and connect the multimeter to 2 female connectors that are right next to each other, if everythings good, then there should be no power coming trough, if it does, check where it is, and then remove it. cant see it? use magnifying glasses.

if you have any questions, ask them and il explain.
parts arrives 28 pin zif socket and parellel port
ordered the parts from sparkfun waiting for them to arrive
COOL I AM MAKING THIS
nice :D<br>long time since ive used this thing though<br>i got an USB programmer now, also handy<br><br>anyway, the reason im replying is that i have a tip for you: instead of soldering the singlecore wires directly, use some pin sockets to make it sorta breadboardish<br>if you do that, you dont need to resolder a new wire in every time it breaks, something that'l happen from time to time<br><br>good luck :)
did this programmer work for you
yeah, it did<br>i just needed an USB one becouse i didnt always have a serial port available<br>that port's just so usefull for alot of things, and i sometimes got somewhere where they didnt have one<br><br>but it worked perfectly!

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