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how to make a heated fuel line for your straight veggie oil conversion. materials include 3/8" O.D. aluminum tubing, 5/8" I.D. coolant hose, a few inches of 3/8" I.D. fuel hose, copper tees, a few inches of copper pipe, and hose clamps.
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Signing UpStep 1Make your tees
Get some "half inch copper tees" from the hardware store. These are called "half-inch" because of ancient standardization efforts left over from New York, hundreds of years ago - there is NOTHING half-inch about this hardware. The actual diameter of "half-inch" copper pipe is 5/8" O.D. (Outer Diameter).
You will need either two or four "tees". Two if you are putting your hose-in-hose system in series with your passenger heating system, four if you are putting it in parallel with it. Series means that coolant will flow through the hose-in-hose first and then the passenger heater core, parallel means coolant from the engine can take either route or both - hopefully it will choose both. Also, you can get 90-degree "elbows" if the routing of your hoses will be less kinky that way. Plan ahead!
You will need pieces of "half-inch" copper pipe - which is actually 5/8" O.D. You will need two-inch long pieces, because the Tees you have can't be used alone. Also, to merge two Tees (to make a four-way) you need a short piece of pipe. This will all become obvious when you look at the parts in your hand, and try to put the coolant hose onto one of the tees without first installing a bit of pipe. You can probably get the store to sell you short pieces of pipe, if they have it in a scrap bucket, since you only need two-inch long pieces.
While you're at the hardware store, get yourself the 3/8" aluminum tubing which will be your fuel line. It comes in a circular roll about 2-3 feet across, and you can straighten or bend it with your hands.
Most big hardware stores don't carry this stuff - but the small ones like Ace do, and they have copper tees and scrap buckets of pipe too.
The pieces in this image have already been soldered together. How to solder or "sweat" copper pipe is another instructable entirely!
You will need either two or four "tees". Two if you are putting your hose-in-hose system in series with your passenger heating system, four if you are putting it in parallel with it. Series means that coolant will flow through the hose-in-hose first and then the passenger heater core, parallel means coolant from the engine can take either route or both - hopefully it will choose both. Also, you can get 90-degree "elbows" if the routing of your hoses will be less kinky that way. Plan ahead!
You will need pieces of "half-inch" copper pipe - which is actually 5/8" O.D. You will need two-inch long pieces, because the Tees you have can't be used alone. Also, to merge two Tees (to make a four-way) you need a short piece of pipe. This will all become obvious when you look at the parts in your hand, and try to put the coolant hose onto one of the tees without first installing a bit of pipe. You can probably get the store to sell you short pieces of pipe, if they have it in a scrap bucket, since you only need two-inch long pieces.
While you're at the hardware store, get yourself the 3/8" aluminum tubing which will be your fuel line. It comes in a circular roll about 2-3 feet across, and you can straighten or bend it with your hands.
Most big hardware stores don't carry this stuff - but the small ones like Ace do, and they have copper tees and scrap buckets of pipe too.
The pieces in this image have already been soldered together. How to solder or "sweat" copper pipe is another instructable entirely!
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Jun 20, 2009. 1:45 PMnil0lab
says:
Woah! Be careful using copper or zinc (including galvanized and brass) in contact with WVO or biodiesel! I'm no expert but I've heard from various sources (including my local biodiesel vendor's class on WVO conversions) that copper and zinc can be eaten away because of an electro-chemical process. I guess it's probably OK if you're a real DIYer who is going to take it apart and look inside pretty regularly but it's not something you should install and forget.
Reply
4
Jun 21, 2009. 3:08 PM
jerkey (author)
says:
jerkey (author)
says:
Its true that there are sometimes problems when using copper in contact with WVO, because the animal fats can interact and create a green slime. BUT in this arrangement, the veggie oil never comes in contact with copper! It only flows through the aluminum tube, and aluminum is safe for WVO as far as I know. Thanks for looking out!
Reply
May 9, 2008. 8:20 AMtalonsblade
says:
ok, veggie oil conversion? for what a car? you can convert diesel vehicles to run on vegie oil right?
Reply
Jun 20, 2009. 1:50 PMnil0lab
says:
Yes, WVO conversions are for diesel engines. Diesel engines can burn biodiesel without modification, but they can also burn waste vegetable oil if the oil is pre-heated so it doesn't coagulate and keep the fuel from reaching the combustion chambers (cylinders)
Reply
May 16, 2009. 9:05 PMBosun Rick
says:
"they might not charge you for three inch pieces of hose, especially if they are in your pocket by the time you get to the register." Are you condoning shoplifting?
Reply
Sep 8, 2008. 7:39 AMjamyrna
says:
Nice technique. I just converted two old Mercedes using it and they are both running great!
Reply
May 7, 2008. 7:28 AMHegemone
says:
That's a way of doing it I've never thought of. Interesting. The way I've done it is to use aviation compression fittings.
Reply
4
May 7, 2008. 6:39 PMjerkey (author)
says:
jerkey (author)
says:
one reason for not using compression fittings is - you can't ever take it apart! I have seen people use an O-ring instead of the proper metal ring on a compression fitting, so they can take it apart if necessary - but I find this method much simpler and more durable. Also, there are no threads or wrenches involved, just hose clamps and hose.
Reply
1
May 7, 2008. 9:38 PMcokebottle tuque
says:
Why not just use barbed hose Ts? I cant imagine it being that difficult to find ones with the proper temperature rating.
Reply
4
Jul 23, 2008. 1:58 PMjerkey (author)
says:
jerkey (author)
says:
barbed hose tees are not ideal because they create a restriction - the fuel line barely fits through them, so there is not as much room for the coolant to flow. They would work (depending on how thick the wall of the tees are) but the copper pipe tees are ideal. Plus they are customizable with elbows, and you can make four-ways, which are useful when you run in parallel with your passenger heater.
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