Instructables
As a lighted costume designer, I get a lot of questions from people who want to know how to make their own EL wire costumes. I don't have time to help everyone individually, so I thought I'd consolidate my advice into one instructable. Hopefully this will help you understand the steps involved in this labor-intensive process, and get you started with your own lighted clothing projects.

Rather than describe how to make a single specific design, I am trying to make these instructions fairly general so you can create your own EL wire layout for almost any type of clothing, although many of my example photos refer to lighted coats. Also, since EL wire is very fragile in situations where it is flexed repeatedly, a lot of these tips will focus on methods for improving durability and getting the longest possible life out of the garment.

UPDATE: I never intended this to be a tutorial for copying other people's work, but it seems that some clarification might be useful. It's great to be inspired, but I'd like to encourage this community to take things a step further and use these techniques to create their own original designs.
 
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Step 2: Choose garment to light up

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Some types of clothing are better-suited for EL wire installation than others. It is usually easier to get good results when the stiffness of the wire is similar to the stiffness of the base fabric, and the garment does not stretch or flex too much in the areas where the EL wire is installed.

recommended:
leather, suede, vinyl, various forms of imitation leather
denim, thick cotton/polyester blends, velvet (non-stretch), faux fur
quilted/padded jackets (like a parka)
any medium to heavyweight fabric that does not stretch

not recommended:
lightweight fabrics
stretch fabrics

In most cases, you don't want the EL wire to be significantly stiffer than the fabric, or the wire will dominate the drape of the garment. (one exception would be a ruffled edge on a tutu, for example). Also, if you bend or fold part of the wire when you wear it or store it, it will retain some of the bend in that location when you want to straighten it out. Over time, these areas are more likely to break.

If you are working with a lined piece of clothing, open up the lining by gently snipping the stitches in an inner seam. Open it enough so that you can access all the places where you will put EL wire.

Step 3: Plan the light layout

Adding EL wire to clothing can be a good project for a beginner who has limited experience with electronics or sewing. However, you should be aware of the limitations of EL wire when you plan your design.

The center core of EL wire is made of solid copper, and like any solid wire it will break due to fatigue damage after repeated bending. On the human body, the elbows, knees, shoulders, and hips undergo the most movement. You can make the electronics last longer by mounting EL on areas that don't flex as much, and using stranded insulated connector wire (which can flex) to join the glowing pieces together inside the garment.

Plan the placement of EL wire with temporary markers like pieces of string, pins, or stickers, or make a sketch on a digital photo of the garment. You can follow the seams, or add axtra lines as desired. Decide which sections can be lit up with a single continuous piece of EL wire, and which will require multiple pieces.

Then, decide what path the wire will take for each section, and mark the entry and exit points. To make sharp "T" shaped junctions, you may need to run the wire inside the jacket at some locations.

Step 4: Select and order the EL wire and inverter

Measure the total length of EL wire that you will need, taking into account parts that will be hidden behind the fabric, and add at least 2-3 inches at the end of each piece to allow for stripping and soldering the ends (or sealing the un-soldered ends). If you are not experienced with soldering EL wire, order extra so you can practice. You may need to cut and re-strip the ends multiple times.

There are many sources for buying EL wire online, such as coolneon.com and worldaglow.com

Thicknesses:
thin (angel hair)
normal thickness (2.3 mm diameter)
extra thick/phat (3.2mm or 5mm diameter)

I prefer normal thickness, high brightness wire for most applications. The thin wire can be bent into finer shapes, but it is more fragile (better suited for a hat or a tiara, for example). The thick wire is more durable, being protected by a thicker outer plastic core, but it cannot be bent as tightly and may not be suitable for designs with fine details or sharp bends.

Colors:
There are two standard phosphor colors for EL wire: aqua blue (which is white with a clear sheath when off), and white (which is pink when off, due to the addition of a red phosphor in the mix). The other colors (pink, red, orange, yellow, lime green, dark green, dark blue, and violet) are achieved by filtering the aqua light through a tinted outer sheath. Aqua tends to be the brightest, although the brightness can be adjusted when you select your driver.

EL Drivers:
EL wire uses a high voltage and high frequency alternating current to activate the phosphor. An EL driver, also known as an inverter, is required to convert your low voltage DC power from the battery into a high voltage AC source. The length rating of the EL driver should be matched to the total length of glowing wire that you want to illuminate, regardless of whether it is wired in series or in parallel.
Some drivers will produce a steady glow in your EL wire, others have built-in options for blinking and sound reactivity.

Step 5: Cut, strip and solder the EL wire junctions

You can order the EL wire pieces pre-soldered if your design is relatively simple, and you want to skip this step.

The sketch below illustrates the method I use to solder EL wire. If you'd like more detail, you can get directions from the places that sell EL wire, or see this instructable:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Solder-EL-Electroluminescent-Wire/

For each piece of EL wire in your design, cut the proper length (with at least a few extra inches at each end), and solder the end of each piece to a connector, or to a double-conductor piece of ribbon cable that is long enough to reach the driver. The polarity does not matter - either wire can be connected to the center core or the outer wires. There are many methods for soldering EL wire, for any of these you should end up with a reinforced region with heat shrink tubing covering the junction.

I strongly recommend that you test the wire at this stage, joining the two conductors to an inverter, before it is attached to the garment. This is also a good time to join the pieces together to test the overall brightness, and decide whether you'd like to use a stronger inverter. You can achieve a higher level of brightness by overdriving the wire (e.g., attaching a short length of wire to one that is designed for a longer piece). It will burn out the phosphor on the wire faster, but that might not be important for some applications. Under normal usage, EL wire should have 3000 to 5000 hours of glowing life before the phosphor fades to 1/2 of its normal brightness.

Step 6: Attach the EL wire

For most projects, the best approach is to hand-sew the wire to the fabric with clear monofilament thread (fishing line). Look for the basic clear kind, in one of the lower weights. I typically use the 6lb type, but 4lb and 8lb will also work reasonably well. You can also use standard thread, if you don't mind that it will block light from the EL wherever you make a stitch.

Make a hole in the fabric where you want to have an entry point. with the connector wires on the inside, pull the EL wire through the hole. When you get to the solder junction and shrink tubing, leave that part inside the garment and position it in a way that can be reinforced. For example, you may want to sew it to the inside of a seam, or add glue. It is most important that the area inside the shrink tubing is not going to bend repeatedly - this is the most fragile part of the wire.

If you are doing the type of installation where you are running one long piece along an arm or leg, or another line that is going to extend when you flex, then it is better to mount the EL wire in a way that allows the end to slide slightly in and out of the hole.

To sew the wire in place: use a needle that is appropriate for the garment fabric (leather needles have a special piercing point at the end). Thread the needle. As a rule of thumb, a good amount of thread to use is the distance between your hands when your arms are spread out. Shorter pieces will require frequent re-threading, longer pieces tend to get tangled and caught on things. I like to sew with a double strand of thread - meaning the needle is positioned at the halfway point on the piece of fishing line, and the two ends are tied together. A double knot is a good idea.

When you start sewing, run the needle between the two threads after the first stitch, to make a better anchor to the knot. This ensures the the knot will not pull through the hole in the fabric.
Sew along the length of the EL wire with a diagonal whip stitch, using whatvever spacing is needed to hold the wire in the proper shape. If the fabric is especially thick or difficult to sew through, you can use a line of topstitching as your anchor.
Tie an extra knot in the fishing line periodically (every 5-6 inches), so that if part of it breaks it will not undo the rest of the stitching.

For some materials, a strong flexible glue may be a better choice. For example, EL wire can be mounted to a plastic surface (such as a helmet) by hot glue, E6000, or 3M Super Strength Adhesive.

Another method for attaching EL wire to clothing is to make a casing or channel with sheer fabric, and slide the wire through there.

Or, if you're looking for an extremely easy short cut, or a quick temporary attachment, you could weave it back and forth through holes in the fabric, or hold it on temporarily with safety pins, zip ties, or clear tape.

When you get to the other end, make an entry hole, if needed. Leave about 2-3" excess wire at the end. Seal the end with heat-shrink tubing and/or glue, and mount it on the inside of the garment, as you did with the leading end.

Step 7: Finishing steps

First, you will need to deal with wire management inside the garment. There should be enough slack for the non-glowing connector wires to reach back to the inverter and battery without being pulled tightly when you move. But, you also don't want so much excess wire that it will get snagged when you put it on. I recommend using a big stitch to sew these wires to the seams on the inside of the garment. If your jacket is unlined, this is especially helpful. If your jacket has a lining, it may be sufficient to make some anchor points at key locations where the wire bends, like the armpits.

After all the wires running back to the inverter and battery pocket are stabilized, reconnect them as needed. They can be hard-wired to the driver, or joined to a plug if you want it to be easy to change it later. Use heat-shrink tubing or other insulators to ensure that you do not short out the two conductors to each other.

Advice for the battery pocket:
Use an existing pocket in the garment or add one, if necessary. The pocket should be close to the size of the battery pack. If you will be dancing or moving a lot in the coat, you don't want the battery pack to bounce around too much, or fall out. Closing the pocket with a zipper or velcro can be helpful.

Clip a small part of the pocket seam, pass the wire through, and re-sew the seam closed so that the parts don't fall back into the lining. If you do not plan to change the inverter, that part can be hidden in an inaccessible part inside the lining, or sewn into a separate closed section of a pocket. Run the wire for the battery connector to that pocket. There should be enough excess wire to easily access the end and change batteries.

Many EL drivers run on 9V or 12V. A standard 9V battery is good for many applications. If you want longer battery life with a 9V system, you can also use a 6-pack of AA cells.

Step 8: Other examples: EL wire logos and shapes

Picture of other examples: EL wire logos and shapes
In addition to lighting up the seams of a garment, EL wire can also be bent into shape to create logos and other designs, and sewn or glued to fabric. Please see the notes on each image for more information.

Step 9: Other examples: EL wire suits

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Here are some examples of EL wire suits, with comments included on the photos.

Step 10: Other examples: EL wire hats and helmets

Hats and helmets can provide a good sturdy non-flexing base for EL wire. Cut holes in fabric, or drill/melt holes in plastic to pass the wire in and out of the hat at desired locations.

A small inverter and battery (9V type, for example), can be hidden in a hat with extra space inside, so those are generally preferred over something tight, like a low-crown baseball cap.

The high-pitched whining noise of the EL wire system can be difficult to wear near your ears, although some people don't mind it.

Please see the photo comments for more information.
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Nice work.

KateM31 month ago

Cosplay is a HUGE hobby that takes a lot of work, so you have to expect that people would be looking up this tutorial for it. And here, it kind of feels like you're attacking it.

You say not to use thin material, but could I use these with Lame? And with the fabric being pleated and moving very flowingly.

Example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AwlSKcRGUg

OliverG1 month ago
Cool
VegetarianD2 months ago

THIS WILL BE PERFECT WHEN I MAKE THESE OUTFITS !

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how much does eL wire cost, or the whole project?

EL wire is $2.95 for one meter and a 3V driver circuit on Ebay.

it's free shipping but will take two to three weeks to arrive.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EL-Wire-Rope-Car-Party-Danc...

Hope this helps! :)

Gdurkan2 months ago

how did you attach the wires to the bike helmet?

alanm1010 months ago

Inside the jacket did you leave the EL wire until the next arrangement outside the jacket, or did you use another wire to save EL? and if so how did you solder those wires?

meowsugar1 year ago
I'm making a dance costume. The lights will not be out. It will be bright. We need words on the costume to "glow". I have had no experience with this process. Your comments have been very helpful. One question, will these lights show up under regular lighting? Any advice will be helpful. Thanks
Lady P meowsugar10 months ago

Hello,

We also use elwire in our dance costumes. Consider using a black light on stage.

Greggb8533 made it!10 months ago

Best instructable, I made it and it looks awesome. I spent $10 on sweatshirt, $20 for wire and $10 for the converter, both at Radioshack,. $5 on thread and needles. $5 on batteries. Totaling $50 in all.

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criggs-13 years ago
This is really cool, but how do you connect the wires to the battery pack? And where would a good place to find a cheap one be?

Any help would be much appreciated :)
The battery pack has a female connection to it and the wires usually have a male clip which makes it super easy to work with.
And IDK if this is cheap for you but check out http://www.elwireonline.com/ they have everything
gomas2112 years ago
Please answer fast!.........

i want to create some costumes but do i need some sort of battery or charger or can you wash the cloth please answer fast
You need an inverter which runs a specific amount of EL wire. Although to wash it I think you may need to take the whole light out.

I found that these people helped me when I was making my costume
http://glowauthority.com/
lworrall1 year ago
How loud is the high pitch noise you mention please?
noctividus1 year ago
Just curious...who exactly owns the patent for what?
though this is really cool. you cant sell it with out aquiring a licesnce from the patent holder or you are liable to get suied. trust me just got in a lot of troble recently. DO NOT PLAN TO SELL THIS CLOTHING!
and trust me to that it is highly expesnsive court cost then all the other crap thats involved. got forced into a stick licensing agreement and royalties are high.
CodySteed1 year ago
This is a Great tutorial. I use clear thread in my sewing machine and use a wide zig-zag stitch on top of the el-wire to hold it down. This works AWESOME!

You have to go a little slowly until you get the hang of it. I use a foot for my singer which is designed for "Piping" so it has a thin side (for the el-wire) and a wide side to hold the material down. I have done dozens of garments this way, and it is really great!



Thanks Janet. Great stuff. Exciting to see how many performers wear your creations.

Let me add my $0.05 worth:

Most vendors sell a small elwire inverter that drives up to 30 ft. of wire. It has a 9 volt battery inside its enclosure. In my opinion, this is by far the best inverter for costumes.

Unless you enjoy doing it, I recommend you have the vendor solder your elwire for you. I believe it costs like $2.50 or $5 per wire. Two vendors who do this are www.coolight.com and www.coolneon.com They provide good telephone customer support.

This instructable mentions wire management and battery pockets AFTER attaching the wire. I recommend STARTING with finding a home for the inverter & battery, and laying out your elwire from there. At this point I cut some yarn the length of the elwire, and lay out some drafts to figure out my design. I keep the yarn in place with masking tape - thats the blue stuff for painting.

This instructable shows a whip stitch is used to attach elwire to clothing. In my experience, a blanket stitch ties elwire tighter to the garment. That is more secure and makes the elwire less vulnerable. What I'm saying is loop back around each stitch to really tie down. This demonstrates a blanket stitch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXkSE2TTF4s Also, for a light weight garment, invisible thread is strong enough.

It can be hard to tie down elwire's slippery end. If you secure it by its heat shrink or vinyl cap, it may pop out. Also, you may not want to poke a hole in the garment for the elwire end. I have solved this by glueing on a jewelry "finding". I get these from the Toho Shoji bead store in New York City's Garment District. Its a bit tricky because you have to avoid an electrical "short" with the metal finding. Super glue is strong enough in a few minutes, but not waterproof. E6000 is best but has to dry overnight. Hot glue, fabric glue and epoxy don't adhere well enough to elwire's vinyl jacket. They may work on a solid object, but not a flexing costume, or keep the wire in a finding.
moh32 years ago
do u have a video to follow of making the motorcycle jacket with el wire

Where would you suggest to put the inverter on a bra?
This instructable is very helpful, thank you for posting it! One question, how do you clean garments with EL installed, or do you just remove the wire for washing?
enlighted (author)  MadScientistK5 years ago
I typically recommend spot cleaning only for garments with permanently installed EL wire. If you disconnect the batteries, and the ends of the wire are very well sealed, you may be able to submerge it briefly to hand wash it. When water leaks into the internal portion of the wire it will damage the phosphor and it won't glow anymore. I've heard stories of people throwing it in the washing machine, and having it work afterwards, but you risk mechanical damage from the tumbling, too.
What about dry cleaning?
Thank you so much! I thought that would be the case.
where can you get EL wire for around $.50 per foot or cheaper?
please send links thx.


9.8 Feet for 5 bucks (60cent shipping) assorted colors, best deal I've seen around yet---------------------------> http://stores.ebay.com/xiao2huan/_i.html?_nkw=el+wire&submit=Search&_sid=242004751
ZeshanAli5 years ago
I'm trying to make a jacket with around 200 ft of 3 different colors of el wire and I was wondering what kind of driver or sequencer you used on your leather motorcycle jacket with el wires? I'm trying to make the wires on the jacket have a similar chasing effect as yours did. And would it be possible to find a sound activated driver for around that that length as well? Thanks =]
enlighted (author)  ZeshanAli5 years ago
I used my own custom sequencer for that pattern. I don't sell my sequencers or other EL supplies - it would be best to direct these questions to an EL dealer (there are many listed in the comments on this site).
I find it very interesting and I like to make the costumes but not to buy the cable EL, can you tell me where I can get the materials? or some other name to be known?
zozoyencken3 years ago
What happens when it rains?
Should be fine as long as connections are sound and protected as wire is coated with coloured plastic to give the colour to the light.
thanks.
Neon303413 years ago
https://picasaweb.google.com/103871417315764632452/TronCostumes?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Eddy Dean3 years ago
Looks great, BUT, can this be washed?
jfarron3 years ago
I want to do a "daft bodies" thing for a school function...would it be possible to use EL wire to write words on different places on the jacket and pants? Thank you for your time!
fredmila3 years ago
I have measured voltages of up to 125V on the contacts of the EL wire. I guess this is the reason why I have not seen any garments made with this stuff by large and/or reputable clothes manufacturers. Maybe manufacturers from China yes, as over there safety is just a nicety.
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