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Step 6Attach the EL wire
For most projects, the best approach is to hand-sew the wire to the fabric with clear monofilament thread (fishing line). Look for the basic clear kind, in one of the lower weights. I typically use the 6lb type, but 4lb and 8lb will also work reasonably well. You can also use standard thread, if you don't mind that it will block light from the EL wherever you make a stitch.
Make a hole in the fabric where you want to have an entry point. with the connector wires on the inside, pull the EL wire through the hole. When you get to the solder junction and shrink tubing, leave that part inside the garment and position it in a way that can be reinforced. For example, you may want to sew it to the inside of a seam, or add glue. It is most important that the area inside the shrink tubing is not going to bend repeatedly - this is the most fragile part of the wire.
If you are doing the type of installation where you are running one long piece along an arm or leg, or another line that is going to extend when you flex, then it is better to mount the EL wire in a way that allows the end to slide slightly in and out of the hole.
To sew the wire in place: use a needle that is appropriate for the garment fabric (leather needles have a special piercing point at the end). Thread the needle. As a rule of thumb, a good amount of thread to use is the distance between your hands when your arms are spread out. Shorter pieces will require frequent re-threading, longer pieces tend to get tangled and caught on things. I like to sew with a double strand of thread - meaning the needle is positioned at the halfway point on the piece of fishing line, and the two ends are tied together. A double knot is a good idea.
When you start sewing, run the needle between the two threads after the first stitch, to make a better anchor to the knot. This ensures the the knot will not pull through the hole in the fabric.
Sew along the length of the EL wire with a diagonal whip stitch, using whatvever spacing is needed to hold the wire in the proper shape. If the fabric is especially thick or difficult to sew through, you can use a line of topstitching as your anchor.
Tie an extra knot in the fishing line periodically (every 5-6 inches), so that if part of it breaks it will not undo the rest of the stitching.
For some materials, a strong flexible glue may be a better choice. For example, EL wire can be mounted to a plastic surface (such as a helmet) by hot glue, E6000, or 3M Super Strength Adhesive.
Another method for attaching EL wire to clothing is to make a casing or channel with sheer fabric, and slide the wire through there.
Or, if you're looking for an extremely easy short cut, or a quick temporary attachment, you could weave it back and forth through holes in the fabric, or hold it on temporarily with safety pins, zip ties, or clear tape.
When you get to the other end, make an entry hole, if needed. Leave about 2-3" excess wire at the end. Seal the end with heat-shrink tubing and/or glue, and mount it on the inside of the garment, as you did with the leading end.
Make a hole in the fabric where you want to have an entry point. with the connector wires on the inside, pull the EL wire through the hole. When you get to the solder junction and shrink tubing, leave that part inside the garment and position it in a way that can be reinforced. For example, you may want to sew it to the inside of a seam, or add glue. It is most important that the area inside the shrink tubing is not going to bend repeatedly - this is the most fragile part of the wire.
If you are doing the type of installation where you are running one long piece along an arm or leg, or another line that is going to extend when you flex, then it is better to mount the EL wire in a way that allows the end to slide slightly in and out of the hole.
To sew the wire in place: use a needle that is appropriate for the garment fabric (leather needles have a special piercing point at the end). Thread the needle. As a rule of thumb, a good amount of thread to use is the distance between your hands when your arms are spread out. Shorter pieces will require frequent re-threading, longer pieces tend to get tangled and caught on things. I like to sew with a double strand of thread - meaning the needle is positioned at the halfway point on the piece of fishing line, and the two ends are tied together. A double knot is a good idea.
When you start sewing, run the needle between the two threads after the first stitch, to make a better anchor to the knot. This ensures the the knot will not pull through the hole in the fabric.
Sew along the length of the EL wire with a diagonal whip stitch, using whatvever spacing is needed to hold the wire in the proper shape. If the fabric is especially thick or difficult to sew through, you can use a line of topstitching as your anchor.
Tie an extra knot in the fishing line periodically (every 5-6 inches), so that if part of it breaks it will not undo the rest of the stitching.
For some materials, a strong flexible glue may be a better choice. For example, EL wire can be mounted to a plastic surface (such as a helmet) by hot glue, E6000, or 3M Super Strength Adhesive.
Another method for attaching EL wire to clothing is to make a casing or channel with sheer fabric, and slide the wire through there.
Or, if you're looking for an extremely easy short cut, or a quick temporary attachment, you could weave it back and forth through holes in the fabric, or hold it on temporarily with safety pins, zip ties, or clear tape.
When you get to the other end, make an entry hole, if needed. Leave about 2-3" excess wire at the end. Seal the end with heat-shrink tubing and/or glue, and mount it on the inside of the garment, as you did with the leading end.
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