Step 10: brakes

for the brakes (old ones from another bike) i screwed two steel plates with holes to the frame.
Slowly but surely working on my first one. I am using 20 inch wheels that I found at some garage sales. <br> <br>I am realizing that I am going to have to use tapered (conical) bearings rather than the steering fork due to the lower ground clearance. I understand that Christiania uses tapered bearings as well. <br> <br>There are not a lot of instructions online how to set up a shaft and tapered bearings for a cargo bike, but there is one here at 2:20-3:44 that might be useful for some. <br> <br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSOTP1xj36Y <br> <br>carkat, is this the way you envisioned the conical bearings working? <br> <br>As always, thanks!!
hello, i also have 20'' wheels, but i seem to have enough clearance under the pivot (even if it came from a tall bike, my wife's bike pivot is 3,5cm shorter), 4cm, without tyres
hi,<br> yeah, this would be the pro-approach. i was thinking of using bearings including pre-made housings and somehow attaching them to the frame so there's no lathe needed. examples are <a href="http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/browning/browning-mounted-roller-bearings/15926-27063-_18.html" rel="nofollow">here</a> , <a href="http://www.abb.com/product/us/9AAC173161.aspx" rel="nofollow">here</a> and <a href="http://www.nskamericas.com/cps/rde/xchg/na_en/hs.xsl/wheel-hub-units.html" rel="nofollow">here</a> (e.g. hub II).<br> another approach would be to adjust the clearance so you can use the bicycle head tube like this guy did <a href="http://youtu.be/NPZNOR0xZ4w?t=2m58s" rel="nofollow">here</a>
<p>Dear friend,<br>thanks a lot for your instructabls: it's great and now I must make my cargo bike!<br>I read many times your guide but I have some questions:<br>-for the cargo are good square steel tubes 30 mm*30 mm (2mm oh thickness)? and for the frame/pivot tube?<br>-the angle of pivot is right in my photo?<br>-the dimension are good?I'd like to have a big cargo bike!<br>thanks for your support and sorry for my english!! =)<br>Michele</p>
<p>hi,<br>the overall measurements look good to me. for the cargo area i used 20 x 20 mm tubes with 1,5 mm wall thickness and for the frame it was (i think) 25 x 2 mm. the pivot tube is taken from the donor bike (see step 5). and the angle looks perfect :-)<br>good luck for your build!</p>
<p>Hi, I'm inspired by your project and very impressed. I was looking at another cargo trike project on instructables... the person has put the pivot at the back of the cargo section (see pic of red cargo trike below). The result is that it is a little bit higher than putting the pivot beneath the cargo section so it should reduce the possibility of the pedals hitting the ground. Do you think there are any disadvantages to doing it like this? I was wondering if there would be more stress on the pivot doing it this way? </p>
hi,<br>the problem with this position of the pivot is that steering becomes problematic. it works well with (very) high loads and when you're (very) slow, but other than that the steering tries to break free.<br>imagine you have a two-wheeled cart you DRAW behind you with one hand. the cart moves in the direction where you go / where you draw it to. now, if you PUSH it with one hand it would go in the direction it thinks is best :-) the same happens here pushing (pivot in the back) vs. drawing (pivot underneath slightly in front of the wheel-axis).<br>if you have problems with pedals hitting the ground you could either change the cranks to shorter ones (which also helps with higher load since pedalling becomes easier) OR maybe find a bigger bike for the project. usually a 26'' should do.
<p>Thanks for the gems! </p><p>I'd like to use a handlebar pivot as you have done under the cargo section but it seems that it makes the bike to low? I'm a bit confused as to why that doesn't work...Does the pivot hit the ground? If I use a bigger bike will that solve the problem? </p>
<p>mmmh, sounds strange. if you were able to pedal on the bike (which i supppose) before you cut it to make the cargo bike you should be able to pedal now, too... and no, the pivot should never hit the ground...</p><p>the only thing i can imagine is that you have a really long handlebar pivot (e.g. as some dutch bikes do) which is too long to place it under the load. in this case you would have to shorten the tube.</p><p>do you have a photo or drawing of your bike? maybe that would help to figure out the issue.</p>
<p>Excuse my confusing way of explaining this! I haven't made anything yet- although I'm planning to start next week. I saw through reading the posts on here that there was an issue with using a handlebar pivot as the pivot for the cargo section (I saw that you recommended the possibility of using a wheel hub bearing instead). Please can you explain why using a handlebar pivot is not a good idea? I'm quite keen to use a handlebar pivot to save money and make use of the part so it'd be great if there is a way to... </p>
<p>there's no problem with using the handlebar pivot. using the wheel hub bearings just allows for more clearance to the ground. and it looks more professional ;-)</p>
<p>Good news 8) I'll post some photos of how we get on.. </p>
Hi, was just wondering about the mesurements from the bottom brack to the pivot of the cargo box.
<p>hi, that depends. have a look at step 17 in this instructable: </p><p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-build-a-cargo-bike/step17/Edit-final-considerations/" rel="nofollow">http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-build-a-car...</a></p><p>there you have some measurements from where you can calculate the distance. hope that helps!</p>
<p>my first foto</p>
<p>Hello Mr. CARCAT how and what you welded steel pipe and dural frame bicycles? TID? MID? CO2? I'm starting to build a coffee bike</p><p>Thanks for the answer I'm from Czech Republic<br></p>
<p>hi, with my first bike i used CO2 (it's called MIG/MAG here, don't know the english term). in the meantime i'm using TIG (WIG in german) which gives much nicer results. if you know how to weld i would recommend the latter one.<br>all the best for your build!</p>
Hi, sorry, sorry, sorry, yesterday I tried frame with magnet and it is steel. Everything will be sorted out is simple. Next week we start building :-)
<p>hi,<br>no worries! all the best for your build!</p>
My problem is: how to combine old and new pipe frame, which is made of iron(steel). The frame of the bike is dural (aluminium)
<p>i'm afraid this will not work. at least you can't weld those materials together. a long time ago i was working on something similar and a friend of mine suggested to glue the pieces together (steel and aluminium) with special industrial-style glue. but i don't have any experience with his (i dropped the project back then). i guess it's better to find an old steel frame and start over. sorry i don't have better news...</p>
Hi.So it is better to TIG weld. A weld together a frame alloy wheels and steel pipes, or using the dural tube?
<p>hmm, i am afraid i don't really understand what you mean. maybe you start with the front part: welding the tubes for the cargo-box. the next step then would be to make the rear part and connect everything. hope that answers your question? </p>
<p>Hello Mr.Carkat</p><p>I have no words to express my gratitude to you !</p><p>Not only that you gave me self confidence and make</p><p>me believe that i can do it,</p><p>But you also showed me the way . . .</p><p>I Used the Welding machine only once before this project,</p><p>Hope i welded them strong enough so thay</p><p>wont fall apart when i'll ride :-)</p><p>When I ride this Cargo-bicycle</p><p>I am sweeping so many compliments from passers-by thanks to you !</p>
<p>wow, what a beauty! thanks a lot for sharing your work here, it's always great to see other builds and improvements :-)<br>just one question: how long approximately did it take you to build this from start to finish?</p><p>thanks,<br>carkat</p>
<p>The first 3-4 days i worked intensive, but after that i went once a week and it tool me about 6-7 weeks to the final result.</p><p>As you may know It never really ends, there is always room to improve</p><p>But in the meantime I'm satisfied with this,</p><p>The only thing that bugged me a little is when traveling at high speed the handlebar get out of control which is a bit scary, maybe the &quot;Steering damper&quot; you came with can solve the problem?!</p><p>i was thinking of taking a hydraulic arm from an old car back door, And try to connect it to the central pivot, it might give some stability to the handlebar... (I saw something similar done at the original Christiania bikes)</p><p><br>if i'll do it i'll let you know.<br>Thanks, Dvir.</p>
thanks Mr. Carkat <br>
Thank you for the suggestions and the link to the video, which was really inspiring as well! I might add the extra tube to raise the bike as in the video. Another suggestion from a friend who builds motorcycles and rotorcraft was instead of machining a pipe, I could also cut a tube with a slightly smaller diameter and use it as an inner sleeve to hold the bearing cups in place.
This is probably one of the best ideas ever. I bet a lot of <a href="http://www.archeratlantic.com/#!services/c1i41" rel="nofollow">professional freight services</a> will be interested in this with the rising price of oil.
Think you have made a dam good job, ive just made 1 for my dog who has arthritis and have used tips from many builders including yourself, glad you were there to help me. Have a look at mine if you have time and tell me what you think, many thanks Mick. http://tyler-trike.doomby.com/
thanks a lot for sharing your build, it looks amazing! hope you have a lot of good times with your dogs at the beach :-)
Thanks so much for posting this! This will really help me with my <a href="http://www.matco.ca/services/freight.aspx" rel="nofollow">freight services in alberta</a>.
here are some pic, work in progres. hope you like them
wow, looks awesome! thanks a lot for the pics :-)
hey there, I am trying to build the same cargobike, but I have some problem with the cables to the rear end. to the brakes and to the gear (speeds), I didn't like the way you put them, it look like a big mess. do you have another solution? <br>dotan
yeah, for running the cables along the frame i'm using short pieces of steel tubes welded to the frame. the inner diameter of these tube pieces is chosen according to the outer diameter of the cables:<br> <br> <img src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FKU/2B3W/HF23QJ95/FKU2B3WHF23QJ95.SQUARE.jpg"><br> <br> but be sure to run the cables from the handlebar downwards in the middle of the back of the box, so that if you turn the box the cables don't get in your way.
I thank you again for this wonderful tutorial and the drawings of the fork pieces. I am in the U.S. and using some U.S. measurements, but this is really a great contribution to those of us who are trying to be &quot;sustainable&quot; all over the world. I am looking forward to getting a successful build and then tinkering with the bike for some time to come. <br> <br>Sorry for all the questions, but I am curious about the second (lower) long steel tube in Step 8. It looks like it has a nice bend in it, and I am curious as to how you did that. Did you measure the radius of the bend and use a tube bender, or did you bend it in some other ingenious fashion? I can't thank you enough for your work!
hey :-) <br>the bending was really low-tech. i filled the tube with sand, closed the ends with tape and bent it over a small piece of tube with a bigger diameter i had lying around. <br>in the meantime i built myself something similar to this: http://youtu.be/PqZoEd8iNjk which is a good investment if you are going to bend tubes more often than once in a lifetime.
oh, thanks a lot for clarification! never heard of gauge before. <br>i didn't make any mods since the last one mentioned in the i'ble. but be careful: if you take building this bike seriously it could happen you won't be able to stop building cargo bikes. they are always open to mods and improvements - an endless source of inspirational tinkering :-)
Sorry it took a while to reply, the reCAPTCHA on this site has been a problem. Anyways,thank you so much for the explanation and drawing of the &quot;forks&quot;. FYI, Gauge is a U.S. measurement for steel thickness, and 11 gauge is the equivalent of 3mm. Thanks again, really excellent work. Any mods or updates on your cargo bike?
Great work and really inspiring! I have purchased some square tubing and am ready to go. Just a couple of questions: <br> <br>1. What did you use to create the forks for the wheels on either side of the box? Was it something like 11 GA steel, and if so, what was the diameter of the holes and rectangles? <br> <br>2. Did you use GMAW welding process, GTAW or something else? <br> <br>Awesome work, this bike looks great!!
1. hm.. don't know what &quot;11GA&quot; means. they are made of ordinary mild steel, thickness is 3mm, other measurements see images below.<br> 2. GMAW. but if you're able to do GTAW welding i'd recommend it. looks much better and the stability is the same.<br>
what i forgot to tell you about the measurements: there are different diameters of wheel axles possible, so you might want to measure the diameters first and then change the diameter of the hole accordingly (i got 10mm axles). and make sure that there is enough space left between the whole and the upper end of the fork so that you can turn the nut easily when mounting the wheel.
&quot;hole&quot; not &quot;whole&quot; in the last sentence, sorry.
Very good post, starting to make my own right now.
how do you turn i wish i had a welder id try somthin like that nice instructable
I love the point you have left in the cock up's as well and not been too scarred to tell anyone. A great ible I'm possibly coming down with something!!
thanks a lot! if you build something based on this writeup please consider sharing some pics.
This pivot go to support a lot of stress. Look to the reinforcements http://photos.ugal.com/3834/14972/2413/142572/vectocustomphoto.600.jpg Its possible the pivot have some angle to make the bike return itself from the turn.

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