The first task is to fit the 4″ brass nipple perpendicularly through the wide opening of the bell reducer. For the burner to perform optimally, the tube needs to be centered through the intake. It doesn’t have the be perfect, but it does need to be close. I marked out a center line on the face of the reducer using a carpenter’s square and a combination square as shown in the picture.

After marking the center line on the face of the burner intake (bell reducer), extend the lines down the side of the reducer. Then place the 1/8″ brass nipple against the wide rim of the reducer and mark across the center line where its approximate center is. Transfer this line to the opposite side with the combination square.
<p>one question, in regards to the flare, if I don't have access to a forge could I supplement the funnel with another bell reducer? for instance in this case 3/4'' to 1 1/2'' or 2''? just curious.</p>
After adjusting the flare back further than I thought (haven't forged the bell yet),<br>WORKS LIKE A CHARM!
Thanks for the info,<br>Outstanding plan!
<p>Lowe's List;</p><p>Outer Burner;</p><p>1 ea @ $3.48 = $3.48 Black Iron Pipe Nipple 3/4in x 8in</p><p> (ProLine #20512)(Lowe's #12946)</p><p>1 ea @ $5.78 = $5.78 Black Iron Reducer Coupling 1in x 3/4in</p><p> (ProLine #71313)(Lowe's #82770)</p><p>1 ea @ $3.08 = $3.08 Black Iron Pipe Nipple 1in x 6in</p><p> (ProLine #20610)(Lowe's #19758)</p><p>Inner Burner;</p><p>2 ea @ $5.99 = $11.98 Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8in MIP x 4in</p><p> (Watts LFA-721)(Lowe's #87758)</p><p>1ea @ $3.89 = $3.89 Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8in MIP x 2in</p><p> (Watts LFA-717)(Lowe's #87454)</p><p>2 ea @ $2.99 = $5.98 Brass Pipe Coupling 1/8in FIP x 1/8in</p><p> (Watts LFA-706)(Lowe's #85970)</p><p>1ea @ $5.58 = $5.58 Brass Pipe 90 Degree Elbow 1/8in x 1/8in</p><p> (Watts BF-700NL)(Lowe's #748348)</p><p>*I was unable to find an acorn nut to cap the end of the pipe nipples, I ended up using JB Weld (Lowe's #10301) $5.67 and a 39 cent, 5/16 in x 1/2 in (Lowe's #396437) screw to cap the end.</p><p>Set Screws;</p><p>12ea @ $1.98 = $1.98 Phillips Head Screw, 8-32 x 3/4in</p><p> (Weather Max #126944)(Lowe's #409482)</p><p>*Lowe's sells these in a package of 12, you will only need 2 of them on each piece as set screws.</p><p>Total Cost = $41.75</p><p>*with JB Weld &amp; Screw $47.81</p><p>Nearly all of these parts are in Lowe's Plumbing Department. The JB Weld was in their Paint Department (go figure!), and the set screws were in their Hardware Department.</p><p>Hope it helps! </p><p>THANKS makingcustomknives!!! Great tutorial!</p><p>HAHA! We don't pay sales tax in Oregon ;-p</p>
Hey i have a questio , how small can the hole in the brass pipe be?Like can it be any larger or is that the maximum size?
He addresses this question later in the tutorial.
<p>The small forge link is really jacked up. It kept leading me to a bunch of sketchy ads and online shopping. you may want to redo the link.</p>
Seems to work perfectly here.
Great plans!<br>If you can't figure them out, sign up and READ!
<p>can one 20 lb propane tank run two burners</p>
<p>Can this forge burner get hot enough to Forge Weld?</p>
<p>Great detail, can't wait to get cracking with this project. Made my forge last week. Thanks for all the information. </p><p>Mike.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxzdqcPzXj8" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxzdqcPzXj8</a></p><p>This really helps</p>
<p>So I built this burner as specified with the exception I used a 1/16&quot; bit for the jet hole and a 3/4&quot;-1&quot; bell reducer for the front flared end. Everything aligned nicely and when I went to fire it up today attached to a newly filled 20lb propane tank all I got was a small orange flame barely leaking out the front nozzle. I played with the amount of propane entering the nozzle at ignition and got the same result. Granted it is pretty cold out today when I was trying to light it up so perhaps that had something to do with the fuel to air ratio required for solid combustion, but I figured the flame would pull in the required amount of oxygen it needed to sustain a flame. If anyone has any suggestions how to troubleshoot please advise.</p>
<p>Make sure you are using a FULL FLOW POL adaptor to go from your tank to the system. Any other regular adaptors have built in restrictors that drag the PSI down to less than 1.</p>
<p>Thank you for this. I was having flow issues with my burner, and this fixed that!</p>
<p>You are going to get fr to much gas with the 1/16&quot; drill bit. 0.043&quot; id s #57 bit. You will be getting twice as much gas with the larger bit. I have built a bunch of burners of various types in my life, probably 50 or so, maybe more, but I don't know the exact effect of more gas. I use a ,035 mig tip for an orifice and it works for me.</p>
<p>Well of two Lowes to build five of these</p>
<p>Great tutorial, but i'm having some trouble... When I built mine, I put a psi gauge twix the orifice and the tank. When I turned on the burner, I realized that the system was regulating itself to around 15 or 20 psi. I would like to push more propane than that allows me to do. Any idea why this happens/ how do I fix it?</p>
<p>where do you get the 1/8&quot; pipe?<br></p>
<p>To connect the burner to a common propane hose, I think you would also need a 1/4 Male Pipe x 3/8 Male Flare Fitting. </p>
<p>Thanks for the Instructable, great job. Can you tell me if you used any thread sealer anywhere and if so, what kind?</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>could you not use another bell reducer instead of flaring a chunk of 1&quot; pipe?</p>
<p>Does it fit to my gas forge http://devil-forge.com/gas-forges/ DFPROF1?</p>
How safe is this burner and what fittings do you use from the burner to the gas bottle
Could this burner or your other propane torch method be used with this forge: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Bladesmiths-Forge/ ?<br><br>Also, does propane burn hot enough to reform a leaf spring from a vehicle?
Would not work for this type of open forge. <br>These require coal to heat up a large surface. <br>Whereas this method is more like an oven building and maintaining heat in a small area.
what kind of brass fitting do i need to go from a 1/8 inch pipe to this <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/King-Kooker-High-Pressure-Adjustable-Regulator-with-Type-1-Connection-and-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Hose-with-1-8-in-Male-Pipe-Thread-30502/203009031#.UX2EVrX4mS5" rel="nofollow">hose</a>&nbsp;it says it's a 1/8 inch fitting with orifice does that mean it has a valve that must be connected into a specific fitting or can I just use a 1/8 inch coupling?
Would it be a good idea for someone with little experience (like me) to try to do this? Also would this work with a <a href="http://acoverstock.com/department/goodman-gas-furnace-10033.cfm" rel="nofollow">goodman gas furnace</a>? Thanks!
Thanks so much for sharing this information! I have been looking into a new <a href="http://acoverstock.com/department/rheem-ruud-gas-furnace-10078.cfm" rel="nofollow">rheem gas furnace</a>! can you tell me where I might be able to find that! I didn't know there were so many different kinds! But I am happy to know I could make my own! Thanks!
Wow thanks for this. It will come in handy in my shop. I had considered buying and modifying a <a href="http://acoverstock.com/department/goodman-gas-furnace-10033.cfm" rel="nofollow">Goodman gas furnace</a> but this will be easier. Thanks again.
Great build! I have been thinking about getting away from coal for years but I live out in the country where we have no gas lines. <br> <br>Anyone know how long this burner will run on a standard 40lbs bbq tank?
My burner created a nice double flame and heated a soup can to red hot within seconds. But somehow, it doesn't do that anymore and it just shoots out a single flame that barely heats anything. Could this be a problem with my oxygen/gas ratio that isn't creating the torch effect? Is this a fixable issue?<br><br>I found out that my first trials didn't work because the gas can was very low on pressure. I used a new one, but the inner cone flame went away after a few minutes. If I have to always maintain high pressure, what would be the best way...? Smaller pilot hole?
What color is the flame after the inner cone disappears? If there is not enough oxygen in the mix, the flame will become orange, so if you use a smaller orifice you may be able to run it at a lower presser. Also, experiment with the placement of the flare on the main tube to find where the best gas ratio is created.<br><br>
There is plenty of oxygen, I added holes near the back with a breech to control the extra air input. Every three times the inner flame did appear, it was blue (cyan I suppose?)<br>I added length to the burner temporarily with PVC and still got no inner flame. Same for when I pushed the flare all the way back on the burner.<br>The last combination I can think of is making a new, small pilot hole (again) and using a longer flare combo (maybe shorter too)....<br>I've invested $100 on everything, $40 on the burner, so I really want this to work heh. Last time I lost $90 on an unsalvageable project, I was sad.
The pilot hole was slanted.... I fixed it and it works fine now.<br>Thanks for the instructions, this is exactly what I needed for my forge.
Great, I am glad it worked out for you.
I finally got a video of the burner in action, best investment yet! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6JnaTRnmPk
Looks great dude. Thanks for linking to my site too. <br>Have fun.
&quot;Last time I lost $90 on an unsalvageable project, I was sad.&quot;<br><br>I know the feeling brother. But before you go buy any more parts, try heating some steel scraps with the burner as it is. Even though the flame is not tight and uniform, if you point it inside an insulated enclosure, (a forge) it is going to get very hot. Over time, my burner flare is gradually oxidizing and changing the airflow of the burner. When I run it outside of the forge, the flame is wide and fluffy, but it still keeps my forge hot enough for work. Remember that you won't be able to see that pretty double flame cone when its inside your forge anyway. <br><br>
Hehehe, I finally got the double flame (though not uniform and pretty). Heats up rebar pretty red/orange and I already tempered a tool for my friend. We also melted aluminum and we were going to make ingots, but got rained out.
do you need to bell out the end or can you just leave it strait
....is this really a forge or is this A FREAKIN JET ENGINE!?! THIS IS AWSOME!
Very nice idble. Thanks I made one and are happily on the road to amature blacksmithing. I have made a 9kg propane tank forge yith your burner and a homemade anvil. I have made 2 knives and a couple of coupbard handles so far. <br><br>This burner is very simle to make and works very well.<br><br>Great fotos as well.
can i use this burner desing in forge welding? does this give me enough heat?
again very good .
Great job!<br><br>Could this be adapted to use natural gas in place of propane? I don't like to refill the propane tanks and have access to natural gas.
Great burner, I use one for Raku firing my pottery.
Burning petroleum products mixed with air in an open atmosphere is a barrel full of variables... Your question needs more specifics and identify which efficiency you have in mind.

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