i am not an expert on firebreathing or on making stafs and tortches but the ones i make look prety good and my stafs cost less than £15 to build and my tortches are made from the of-cuts but if using precice mesure ments could probably be made for under £7 ea (when making both together i could get evrything for under £20.)
sorry if its a bit rough and ready, i wanted to preserve it in its entirety.
Step 2: Stuf You Need
list of stuf u need:
Buy a length of aluminium or steel piping with a diameter of between 0.7 to 1.2" -figure 1- depending on size of hand and at the length you feel comfortable holding in your hand imagining a reasonably large flame at the end, and always remember that your proportions will look something like this
-figure 2- (I use steel because I find a slightly heavier staff helps to keep momentum whilst spinning and throwing, but steel staffs must be treated with WD40 or other lubricants regularly to keep from rusting).
then get at least 2 difrent colors of tenis tape to be used later in the handle.
Buy some long bolts, some washers and some nuts probably about half the soze of the exterior diamiter of the pipe (so a 1" diamiter pipe would be a 0.5" drill bit and slightly smaller bolts).
Step 3: Wraping the Handle
Then wind tape around handle missing the same spots and overlapping the pervious loop slightly as in image 1.
you can get the tenis tape from your local sporty shop (the tape as the name sugests, is used to omprove grip on tenis rackets)
Step 4: Wraping the Handle Boundrys
Step 5: Aplying the Wick
(The thicker the wick then the bigger the flame and the longer it will burn without refuelling).
Then drill a hole half the width of the wick you chose down from the bare tip, this hole depends on the size if bar being used and comes down to your common sense.
Buy some long bolts, some washers and some nuts with the same or very slightly smaller diameter to the hole.
Wrap the wick around the fabric again but this time do it as tight as you would like it to be when it is semi-permanently secured (tighter means more burn time but smaller flame and looser means bigger flame but shorter burn time)
Use a sharp object to pierce a hole from one side of the wick layer right through the holes in the pole and through the other layer on the opposite side, remember to trim the end of the wick to a size ware you dont get a little piece trailing off it.
Finally slot the bolt through the hole through the wick and pole to finally place the washer and bolt on the other side. (The tighter you screw it the smaller the flame, the longer the burn time and vice versa) Then trim the end of the bolt to look tidy.
Step 6: Preparing and Using the Torch
Then carefully lubricate the nut and bolt so it doesnt rust and rub the same lubricant into the pipe if made from steel rather than aluminium, as it improves the condition of the torch and thus its life.
Now the torch is fully operational and may be used by dipping in paraffin away from any open flame and carefully shake dry.
Hold away from body and light with long match or lighter and suddenly, the fun begins!!!
Try and be imaginative as to what tricks can be performed with this brilliant tool which is only a beginning to the host of amazing fire arts to be mastered.
I have currently been working on passing under my legs, figure of 8 swings, throwing into the air and safely catching it, and several other feats to amaze.
This torch may also be used in conjunction with fire breathing which is the most amazing but yet also the most dangerous of the fire arts.
I will leave this Instructable with a list of other fire arts to consider but the one message that I hope to drill into your head is
Respect the fire!!
Fire torch wielding.
Fire staff wielding.
Fire poi spinning.
And finally the greatest art ever