How to Repair a Worn Out Clicker on an Optical Mouse

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Introduction: How to Repair a Worn Out Clicker on an Optical Mouse

After five years in a university computer lab, this mouse wouldn't respond to clicks very well, but after this two minute repair job, it's as sharp as it's first day!

All you need is a bad clicky mouse, like the one pictured, a phillips screwdriver, and a nail file.

Step 1: Remove the Screw

There's only one screw in this model.

Step 2: Take the Top Off

Using gentle pressure and careful motions, start at the back, and wiggle the mouse unti the top comes off. The top is attatched pretty tightly but it's just snapped together, you can pull it open, but be careful not to break it!

Step 3: Remove the Buttons

The buttons are one piece of springy plastic, held in to the top by a couple of springy plastic barbs. Push the barb back with your thumb and pull it past with your other finger.

Step 4: Chck It Out!

Make sure you're careful not to get the scroll wheel loose of it's springs. It's very hard to put back.

If you look at the back of the buttons you'll see some little indentations. These are caused by constantly being crushed into the little actuators inside the mouse by ham fisted, computer illiterate, college "students," whose parents money would have been better spent renting them an apartment in Mexico and sending them daily beer deliveries. These also are the root of the clicky-no-clicky problem.

Step 5: File It Flat and Reassemble

Use the nail file to flatten the surface where the indentations are. Be sure no raised areas exist which might prevent the actuators from being depressed once it is assembled. Reassembly should be easy unless you took the scroll wheel out. Now is also a good time to clean out any bits of people that have accumulated inside the mouse (icky!).

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47 Comments

Thanks for the idea but instead of sharpening mine down, I just put a small piece of masking tape to "fill in the gap". She works fine again!

Wait a moment. You tell us to file the raised areas down. That means, as I understand, that the actuators will be touched not by the indentations, but by the flat surface behind it. It also means we will get deeper and longer clicks, doesn't it?


If that is the case I guess your solution works. In my case, my kitty thought it was a real mouse LOL and pawed it a while before throwing it to the floor. The fall is short, but it was enough to remove the whole square thingy out, meaning I now forcefully need to replace it somehow... Be it with blue tack, super glue or pill blister aluminium... Well your article did help a lot, thanks!

funny how this most of all time don't work when the real culprit is
the metal inside the switch..as a result of wear and tear that metal got
so sensitive it got displaced/bent just a little from its sweet spot
and it ruin my gaming experience..ya those little fu**** easy to disassemble and
always cure my cancer when im done puttin it back

I was so annoyed with my Logitech mini mouse because i had to click a couple of times before it works. This is helpful thank you but instead of using a nail file, I cut a blister pack which is made of aluminum and added one layer of it to the button area where it hits the "clicker", and just used double sided tape. i tried two layers but it wouldn't move anymore haha. I came up with this cz i didn't have any super glue lol. Thanks so much for this!

I have a Dell / Logitech mouse. My problem is that it scrolls to the bottom of any page I go on. Is there a solution for this?

I've done that.. now my mouse is "better" but it looks like my scrollwheel doesn't work as is should...

I've done that.. now my mouse is "better" but it looks like my scrollwheel doesn't work as is should...

user

i have the same kind of mouse

If this solution doesn't work for you and if you have some soldering skills? you can switch between the two buttons of the mouse, it means that the right clicker will be soldered in the left and left clicker (which is the defected one) will be soldered in the right (it is less used than the left one).

I hope this bit helps :)

Yes, I've done this a couple of times and installed "new" microswitches from cheap thrift shop mice.