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Hyper strong wall mounted bicycle repair stand

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Picture of hyper strong wall mounted bicycle repair stand
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Wall mounted bike stand.
Hyper strong, hyper stiff
Allows bike to be rotated 360 degrees
Off the shelf 1 1/2" galvanized steel plumbing pipe.
Requires drilling, tapping, cutting steel pipe.
 
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Step 1: Materials

Picture of materials
All galvanized (or black) pipe from Home Depot
(1) 1 1/2" flange $ 7.41
(1) 1 1/2" tee $ 5.49
(1) 1 1/2" x 12" (pre-cut, pre-threaded) pipe $ 6.19
(1) 3/8" x 2 1/2" hex bolt $ .77
(2) 3/8" x 2" lag bolts for wall mounting $ .38
(1) 5/16 washer $ .09
total: $ 20.00

tap & bit to drill and thread bolt hole: 3/8 x 16 $ 7.94
1/2" drill bit (for clearance hole in top of tee)
14 teeth/inch 6" bi-metal hack saw blades
Milwaukee Sawzall, drill, good vise, grease

Step 2: Slice tee

Picture of slice tee
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NOTE: do NOT slice along the center-line.
Clamp tee in vise; using a 14 teeth/inch blade, cut tee "the long way" so that one piece is approximately twice as big as the other piece.
You want the bottom piece to thread onto the 12" pipe; the top piece will be held in place with a bolt.

Examine your bike before you cut. Make sure you leave the larger piece with enough thread to thread securely onto the 12" pipe, but still cut enough so that the bike will fit into the tee.

This is the hardest part to making this clamp. You might be able to cut this with a hack saw, but I used a Milwaukee Sawzall.
Single_L10 months ago
I love you wall mount idea. I paired it with another instructable to create a simple, very cheap, and very sturdy wall mounted seat post clamp repair stand.

- 1" floor flange, 18" - 1" pipe, 1" to 3/4" reducing elbow, 6" - 3/4" pipe with one threaded end cut off and filed smooth.

Other Instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Work-Stand-for-10-in-5-Minutes-attaches/
Bike_Repair_Pipe.jpgBike_Repair.jpg
sethy7912 months ago
Very simple and effective repair stand. Just note that the hole for the hex bolt attaching the top piece will probably need to be in the threads of the 1 1/2" tee. Plan this carefully so that you have enough thread to get the bottom piece on securely, but place the hole so your bike does not cover it. I had to drill a second hole since the first was just covered up by the bike. Also, I used old inner tubes to wrap around both pieces of the cut pipe. It grips great, cost nothing and pads the bike from damage beautifully.

Thanks for the idea. I'm loving it already.
godscountry2 years ago
instead of making a clamp,measure top bike bar,cut same size opening in T fitting,then you can slip bike into the T-fitting.
joel.will3 years ago
I made this project, and ended up re-drilling and tapping because I didn't have the hole far enough out of the "clamp" area. I recommend placing your bike in the clamp to check the placement of the tap hole.

Awesome project, overall. My first unqualified success following an instructable.
Waldie5 years ago
Neat idea. The only change I'd suggest would be to arrange the cut of the Tee so that the leg onto the stand-off was not cut - at least in the thread. Having a fairly heavy machine, I'd be a bit concerned about having the side mount spread, and drop pff the pipe. The use of a tapped hole to work the clamp, though, is most ingenious. I like it.
headdead (author)  Waldie5 years ago
You are right. It would be stronger if you slice the tee without cutting off any threads. Speaking of cutting, a bandsaw with a metal cutting blade would be my preferred method.
what about angle geinder
headdead (author) 5 years ago
All good points, Phil. With access to a welder (and welding skills) you could also avoid threading the pipe by welding a nut to the bottom.
Phil B headdead5 years ago
In my experience with welding nuts to things the threads in the nut somehow distort from the heat. I always have to chase the threads afterward. In Mobile, Alabama I toured a WW II battleship. All of the electrical boxes were bolted to nuts that had been welded to the steel plate walls. I have always wondered how they got bolts to thread into those nuts.
what welder are you using? electric causes far less localised heat distortion than oxy/acet
I have a 220 volt Miller Thunderbolt stick welder.
Then don't be surprised. Stick welding is the toughest welding process in common use, so it's natural to heat something too much, especially if you're afraid of making a pool of slag that looks like a weld but comes apart while cooling.
I remember being surprised the first time I used a stick welder to attach a nut to something. The threads bound up pretty hard on the stud I tried to insert. What surprised me was that I had used an oxy/acetylene welder to weld nuts to things and the threads were fine afterward. I have just adapted and now chase the threads with a tap after welding.
why not put a bolt in the nut then weld it
headdead (author)  Phil B5 years ago
I'm guessing, but would it work to weld the nut to the pipe while a bolt is threaded through the nut? Might the bolt keep the nut from distorting?
Phil B headdead5 years ago
My experience is that the threads in the nut still distort and removing the bolt causes a lot of wear and tear on those threads, too. Sometimes I just drill and tap the metal; but, if it is not thick enough, I weld an extra layer of metal over it, drill both, and tap them.
Amir Phil B4 years ago
That's a good idea. I just discovered the nut distortion problem yesterday when I welded up an adjustable bike repair stand out of bed frames. I think your way would leave a much cleaner job. Thanks
nice project. regarding the welding suggestion, there is plenty of debate about the potential health dangers of inhaling zinc fumes while welding galvanized pipes. In that case, it would be better to use black pipe instead of the galvanized.
Not just galvanized pipes. I SMAW is used, the welder inhales poisonous fumes from the electrode.
is smaw stick welding thats the one i have but i have made a ghetto fume extraction system
There is no debate (perhaps on these amateur sites but welders know). Burning Zinc is bad. galvie poisoning sucks real bad. I'm an iron worker/welder and have had galvie poisoning a few times. Each time it gets worse, and easier to get.

Cold sweats, uncontrollably shaking, fever last time I got it I soaked three sets of bed sheets in one night. And there is no cure or relief- you just gotta wait it out

Doing a little here and there wont hurt you much, but if you do it a lot or in an area without good ventilation wear a good respirator mask, not just one of those surgical masks, but a real one. You can taste it if you're in danger of getting it, but better safe than sorry.

tructable4 years ago
 just a thought... it might be easier to drill and tap the tee before cutting. 
nrathbone4 years ago
I found that I could get by with a 8" piece of threaded pipe, and still spin the pedals without touching the wall. This keeps the bike a little closer and hangs into the room less. Where I cut the "T" , 2 of our bikes fit in the "T" fine, but my mountain bike with big top tube hit the treads on the ends. As these threads aren't used for anything, I just knocked them off with a grinder, which smoothed the edges out nicely. Added about 3 minutes to the build time. Lowe's hit me up for $11 for the base flange (only had it in galavanized). Shop around. Remember to put through-bolt and tapped hole well BEHIND the part of the "T" the bike will lie in. My house is post and beam, so I just lagged the flange to a post in the basement. I can work 360 degrees around the bike. You could probably figure out how to hook to any basement column, post, something on your porch, etc.
rtwitchy5 years ago
can you ad on to this and show what how you replaced the bolt with a knob?
headdead (author) 5 years ago
My first attempt used schedule 40 PVC pipe. I was unhappy with the stiffness, so I went to steel. Schedule 40 could work, but you would probably need to add some kind of reinforcement to minimize deflection; also, I never figured out a good way to clamp the bike using PVC.
m854765855 years ago
It is good practice to always clamp a bike stand around the seatpost, not the frame, that way there is less risk of damaging the frame. This is especially important on expensive bikes since lighter frames can be weaker or easier to crush in the clamp (such as thin-wall steel frames), and because (obviously) the frame will be more expensive.
How right you are.
pretty sweet and simple build - thanks!
ebergh5 years ago
Very nice! Different diameter shims will make it useful for a variety of bikes around the house. How about using a 3/8" eye bolt w/ a large eye to close the clamp? It will give you a good gripping surface and adequate leverage, plus it may be less expensive than Rocklers plastic knob.
dchall85 years ago
I like this idea. At first I was worried about the little screws holding the flange to the wall but now I see you used 2-inch lag bolts. This should be fine if the weight is only bike weight. I don't trust myself not to lean on the bike so I would go with 3-inch lag or even a 5-inch through bolt.
Phil B5 years ago
This is clever. I would not have thought of slicing the Tee so one side has enough threads to hold on the long nipple. Were I to do this project, I would probably use black pipe and weld the larger piece of Tee to the nipple, but not everyone has access to a welder. The basic idea you used could also be adapted for a free-standing floor work stand. The cost of the project would be more advantageous if a person could find some scrap pipe parts in a junk box.
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