Hyper Strong Wall Mounted Bicycle Repair Stand

Wall mounted bike stand.
Hyper strong, hyper stiff
Allows bike to be rotated 360 degrees
Off the shelf 1 1/2" galvanized steel plumbing pipe.
Requires drilling, tapping, cutting steel pipe.

Step 1: Materials

All galvanized (or black) pipe from Home Depot
(1) 1 1/2" flange $ 7.41
(1) 1 1/2" tee $ 5.49
(1) 1 1/2" x 12" (pre-cut, pre-threaded) pipe $ 6.19
(1) 3/8" x 2 1/2" hex bolt $ .77
(2) 3/8" x 2" lag bolts for wall mounting $ .38
(1) 5/16 washer $ .09
total: $ 20.00

tap & bit to drill and thread bolt hole: 3/8 x 16 $ 7.94
1/2" drill bit (for clearance hole in top of tee)
14 teeth/inch 6" bi-metal hack saw blades
Milwaukee Sawzall, drill, good vise, grease

Step 2: Slice Tee

NOTE: do NOT slice along the center-line.
Clamp tee in vise; using a 14 teeth/inch blade, cut tee "the long way" so that one piece is approximately twice as big as the other piece.
You want the bottom piece to thread onto the 12" pipe; the top piece will be held in place with a bolt.

Examine your bike before you cut. Make sure you leave the larger piece with enough thread to thread securely onto the 12" pipe, but still cut enough so that the bike will fit into the tee.

This is the hardest part to making this clamp. You might be able to cut this with a hack saw, but I used a Milwaukee Sawzall.

Step 3: Drii and Tap Bottom of Clamp

Clamp the larger piece of sliced tee in a vise. This will be the lower or bottom piece.
Thread 12" pipe onto the tee and get it as tight as you can.
Using the bit supplied with the 3/8" tap kit, drill a hole as shown.
Thread the hole with the tap supplied in the kit. I used a socket set since I didn't want to buy the $7 handle for the tap. It worked fine. Start the tap with your fingers taking care to keep it straight. Slowly turn the tap 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the socket, then back it out 1/4 turn, then turn it in 1/2 turn, then back it out 1/4 turn, etc. You can feel it cutting. It's actually pretty easy and fun..

Step 4: Drill Clearance Hole

No photo.
Drill a 1/2" hole in the smaller of the tee pieces, directly over the hole you just tapped in the lower piece.
The 3/8" x 2 1/2" bolt will drop through this clearance hole and thread into the bottom piece, clamping the bike tightly.
I actually drilled a small pilot hole before I drilled the 1/2" clearance hole.

Step 5: Mount to Wall

Decide where you want to mount the bike clamp.
You MUST find a stud.
If you mount it too high, the wheel may hit the ceiling when you rotate the bike 180 degrees.
Drill pilot holes into the stud and mount the flange with (2 )38" x 2 1/2" lag bolts. You may want to use washers. I didn't.
Apply some grease to the flange threads and twist the 12" pipe/clamp assembly onto the wall.

Step 6: How to Use

You will need to protect your bike frame from the steel clamp with shims. I used pieces of schedule 40 PVC pipe. Depending on the diameter of your bike frame, ou might also add pieces of inner tube to make a snug fit.
Lift the bike onto the lower clamp; place the top of the tee over the bike frame (use a shim.) Thread the bolt, though a washer, into the threaded hole in the bottom tee. Tighten the bolt with a 15mm wrench.
Rotate the bike by turning the 12" pipe in the wall flange. My stays pretty much in whatever postition I leave it.

Step 7: In Use

watch the ceiling...

Step 8: In Use

Simple, cheap, functional.
I may replace the bolt with a knob from Rockler woodworking supply.
You could pretty easily add a 90 degree section and mount this clamp to a workbench.