Note: every stitch of material I use in my projects is somehow salvaged. Yard sale hardware, craigslist leftovers offers, the local lumber yard's scrap bin, fallen limbs... you get the idea. Why? Because it's challenging, inexpensive, I'm a tree-hugger, and it's pretty darn satisfying- that's why. I don't expect everyone to share my level of commitment to reuse, but I encourage you to try it on your next project.
Step 1: Gather Tools & Materials
Time to go "shopping" ... in the scrap bin! You KNEW there was a reason you saved those little odds and ends...
1/4" plywood, quarter sheet total is more than enough
1/2" x 1" door stop trim molding 4' total is safe and gives a little "oops" room (If you buy materials instead of using scraps, don't head straight for the full sticks of trim. Even the home improvement warehouses have bins of "shorts". You'll get it at a fraction of the cost and be doing trees a favor to boot. Nice work!)
1/4" dowel, 2'
flat steel scrap (none around? use utility blades)
4 small flat magnets
8 x 10 piece of felt or other "screen friendly" material
For the cover I used a few scraps of veneer and some cork, pseudo-inlayed to form the i heart wood text. Use your imagination!
3/4 inch finish nails
Teak oil, a fistful of rags, and some 220 grit paper will get you to the finish line
Safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection (I forgot these, again, but I'm a horrible example of safe work habits. See http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Sutures/)
Step 2: Measure, Mark, and Cut
A (1) 9-3/4" x 7-5/8", 1/4" plywood
B (1) 9-1/2" x 7-3/8", 1/4" plywood
C (2) 1/2" x 1" rounded stop molding, at 10-1/2" (long side) ends mitered at 45 degrees D (2) 1/2" x 1 stop molding, at 8-3/8" (long side) ends mitered ay 45 degrees
E (2) 1/4" dowel, at 8-3/8"
-9" x 7-3/8" piece of felt
Cut rabbets in plywood and groove in molding as shown in step one diagram. Miter molding 45 degrees.
Step 3: Openings for Controls
Step 4: Glue & Assemble
Nail mitered corners.
Note: Since we're working with some sizes that just LOVE to split, make sure and give your nails a fighting chance of reaching safety, well... safely. I like to predrill about 1/2-2/3 the length of the finish nail into the stock. I use one of the nails as a bit. Just load it up in your drill and bore away. Another nail trick I've never had fail is objectionable to some, but here goes anyway: spit. I understand a lot of you probably don't feel that close to your hardware, and I can't imagine licking nails is recommended by healthcare professionals, but if I've got splinter-happy wood on my hands, it works like charm. Nail trick #3: if you're anti-spit, just blunt the nailhead before driving in.
Step 5: Make it Yours
(If isn't readily apparent I really really (really) need a 3D printer at this stage, you just aren't paying attention.)
Step 6: Cover Band
Grab your magnet and metal. To find the best locations, just float your metal near the iPad screens trim edge, it'll bite on your magnetic points. Then attach the metal to a coinciding point on the cover between your plywood and felt screen protector. See diagram. There are several magnets in the iPad, every other one alternates poles +-+-. Just the steel blades hold it in place pretty well, but add magnets alternating between the steels if you crave a little more power.
You can also place a magnet in your cover to trigger the auto sleep/wake function. That magnetic sensor is about 2" from the top on the right hand side (long side). I cut a pizza joint's fridge magnet in half and notched a corner of the felt. Under your iPad's general settings, make sure and enable the "Cover Lock / Unlock" or your auto-off magnet won't work.
Step 7: Finish & Jig
Apply Danish Oil with clean cloth.
Do a little jig, cause you just made a one-of-a-kind iPad case and it didn't cost a penny.
Nice dancin'. And Nice iPad case...