Step 1: Supplies
something to cut wood with, how about a 10" miniature table saw from MicroMark! Yay! I love this thing. My new favorite tool.
watercolor paints (or prismacolor pens)
two cups of water
can of shellac or other finish
soldering iron or wood burning tool.
safety goggles (to keep the smoke out of your eyes)
Step 2: Draw on Wood
Print your design out in mirrored form. Trace over the lines heavily with pencil.
Turn the drawing over and tape it into place on the wood surface.
On the back of your drawing, scribble heavily with pencil or burnishing tool. This will transfer the pencil lines of the drawing to the wood surface.
Remove the paper and trace over your drawing using pencil in any spots that did not transfer well.
Some other instructables that discuss different ways of transferring images to other surfaces:
Step 3: Etch the Design Into the Wood
Trace over all the lines of your design slowly with the soldering iron to create a bold deep line.
At first I tried an actual wood burning tool but I found that it took way too long to heat up and got way too hot to handle after a short while.
The soldering iron heats up quickly and you can work with it for longer periods.
You'll want some goggles to keep the smoke out of your eyes. It smells nice, but it will dry your eyes out if too much smoke gets in them.
Some other instructables that discuss wood burning:
Step 4: Erase All the Pencil Lines
Step 5: Color It In
When you apply the paint, it will tend to bleed in the direction of the wood grain, depending on how wet your brush is. Keep the brush only mildly wet and start from the center. Avoid painting into edges and up next to borders. Wait for the paint to finish bleeding before proceeding near the edges of an area. You can touch up edges with your brush carefully once the paint is dispersed and your brush is a little dryer.
If you apply too much paint, grab a clean kleenex and soak it up as soon as possible before it bleeds out of control. Be careful to use a clean kleenex so as not to pat a different color onto the wood by accident.
Go slow and be very patient. Any drips or bleeding most likely cannot be undone! Start with light weak pigments and build up slowly. Don't rush and don't get too casual or over confident. Remember, murphy's law, the longer you've worked on a piece, the more likely you are to splash some color in the wrong place! The closer you get to completion, the more careful you want to be!
When you change your brush color, rinse the brush in the first cup of rinse water. Then rinse it again in the second cup of water. When the first cup of water starts to get heavily pigmented, change them both. Keep your water colors pure this way and the results will not look muddy.
When changing colors, test your brush for cleanliness by brushing it against a kleenex. If it still has pigment in it, you'll want to rinse it better or switch to a new clean brush.
You can also try prismacolor pens for coloring wood. These will bleed as well, like the water colors, but can't be mopped up with a kleenex, so you have to be a bit more careful.
I find that pens give a streaky uneven effect, however, a thin coat of shellac will act as a thinner and help even out the appearance.
Step 6: Coat It With a Finish
I like the warming effect the shellac has on the color. There are other finishes that won't add a color cast. I was thinking of trying acrylic floor polish maybe.
Paint the bottom of the thing first. The shellac will cause the ink to come up, so put down some paper first. Then turn it over and shellac the other side.
The hard part for me is getting the shellac on evenly. I don't seem to have the hang of that yet. Also, it's pretty smelly stuff. I might prefer to use some sort of spray on finish, but then, that costs quite a bit more.
Step 7: The End
It's a lot cheaper than buying wood stain and I kind of like it.