Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 5Color it in
I think watercolors give the most wood-stain-like result. However you must be careful as they will bleed if applied too wet.
When you apply the paint, it will tend to bleed in the direction of the wood grain, depending on how wet your brush is. Keep the brush only mildly wet and start from the center. Avoid painting into edges and up next to borders. Wait for the paint to finish bleeding before proceeding near the edges of an area. You can touch up edges with your brush carefully once the paint is dispersed and your brush is a little dryer.
If you apply too much paint, grab a clean kleenex and soak it up as soon as possible before it bleeds out of control. Be careful to use a clean kleenex so as not to pat a different color onto the wood by accident.
Go slow and be very patient. Any drips or bleeding most likely cannot be undone! Start with light weak pigments and build up slowly. Don't rush and don't get too casual or over confident. Remember, murphy's law, the longer you've worked on a piece, the more likely you are to splash some color in the wrong place! The closer you get to completion, the more careful you want to be!
When you change your brush color, rinse the brush in the first cup of rinse water. Then rinse it again in the second cup of water. When the first cup of water starts to get heavily pigmented, change them both. Keep your water colors pure this way and the results will not look muddy.
When changing colors, test your brush for cleanliness by brushing it against a kleenex. If it still has pigment in it, you'll want to rinse it better or switch to a new clean brush.
You can also try prismacolor pens for coloring wood. These will bleed as well, like the water colors, but can't be mopped up with a kleenex, so you have to be a bit more careful.
I find that pens give a streaky uneven effect, however, a thin coat of shellac will act as a thinner and help even out the appearance.
When you apply the paint, it will tend to bleed in the direction of the wood grain, depending on how wet your brush is. Keep the brush only mildly wet and start from the center. Avoid painting into edges and up next to borders. Wait for the paint to finish bleeding before proceeding near the edges of an area. You can touch up edges with your brush carefully once the paint is dispersed and your brush is a little dryer.
If you apply too much paint, grab a clean kleenex and soak it up as soon as possible before it bleeds out of control. Be careful to use a clean kleenex so as not to pat a different color onto the wood by accident.
Go slow and be very patient. Any drips or bleeding most likely cannot be undone! Start with light weak pigments and build up slowly. Don't rush and don't get too casual or over confident. Remember, murphy's law, the longer you've worked on a piece, the more likely you are to splash some color in the wrong place! The closer you get to completion, the more careful you want to be!
When you change your brush color, rinse the brush in the first cup of rinse water. Then rinse it again in the second cup of water. When the first cup of water starts to get heavily pigmented, change them both. Keep your water colors pure this way and the results will not look muddy.
When changing colors, test your brush for cleanliness by brushing it against a kleenex. If it still has pigment in it, you'll want to rinse it better or switch to a new clean brush.
You can also try prismacolor pens for coloring wood. These will bleed as well, like the water colors, but can't be mopped up with a kleenex, so you have to be a bit more careful.
I find that pens give a streaky uneven effect, however, a thin coat of shellac will act as a thinner and help even out the appearance.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
![How-to faux paint antique distressed furniture [video]](http://img.instructables.com/files/deriv/FSS/48GE/GY19800C/FSS48GEGY19800C.SQUARE.jpg)
