the first step is to find a pallet with blocks separating the two sections of slat and not boards; though it is certainly possible to harvest the boards/slats as well and glue them into a turning blank as well.
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Signing UpStep 1: Prepping the blank
now that you've got a blank, you want to square it up roughly. i use a my miter-saw to do this. once you've got a square-ish piece of wood to deal with, find the center with either a center-finding jig, the dividing head that often comes with a combination square, or you can "zoom in" on rough center with the normal head on a combination square as well.
mark the center, use a compass to draw a circle about that center and drill the center out for a screw-chuck on the lathe. at least, that's how i do it.
i also like to take the "square" blank back to the miter saw and knock the corners off so i start turning with a rough octagon rather than a square. anyone who's ever turned wood before can tell you this takes a lot of the initial "chop" out of roughing down the piece to a cylinder.







































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If you look at them, you can see that there isn't much to them.
Its 1/2" square stainless steel bar stock and a handle with their carbide cutting tip. Ill look and see if i can find the pics somewhere...
In my experience of both independent and scroll chucks would be that its not a wise move to turn air with an independent chuck, is you do a safety helmet an body armor would be advised as a couple of pounds of timber fair shifts when it zings out of the lathe if the tool catches, it almost impossible to get a good solid hold on the piece on independent wood chucks especially if its irregular, they seriously need the work piece supported by the tail stock.
I have a scroll chuck now that is ultra safe and they jaws are dovetailed so they get superb grip of the work pieces, I almost lost a finger to my evil independent chuck when polishing a work piece the jaws are so evil its unreal, I now have a Record Nova chuck and the worst it has done has been slightly scuffed knuckle.
The accident happened when i was polishing and the pad snagged on some tacky wax due to the pressure i was putting on it and the friction jerked the pad in and my finger into the chuck, it happens fast, i reckon the jaws hit me about 50 times before I go my hand away.
When I got the scroll chuck I purposely brushed my thumb lightly on the chuck at 2000 rpm which I highly recommend that no one tries but i can say that it was just a tickle and didn't mark the skin at all.
As far as safety equipment goes, I'll pass on the advice that was passed on to me by an old-school wood-turner: "A full-face shield is pretty good but a full-face shield over a catcher's mask is even better. Might wanna put on the chest shield too."
Yes, I fear the inevitable fly-out that one day shall come to pass but I still get in there and do the work. :))
keep up the good work and enjoy the lathe
Sharpening is the suckiest part of turning. Here's a great link for a DIY sharpening jig:
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/sharp.shtml
I made one similar to this that I found on a UK woodworking board. It works really well.
The retention of rusty nail holes, cracks and knots give things like this individual character and leans away from the mass produced.
One of my favorite lathe videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnv0DAR_gWA . This guy is an inspiration to me, as is your instructable.
BTW..i checked the video you uploaded...it's amazing!