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<p>Hard for me to believe that it works... I guess I have to...</p><p>Can you show a picture of the voltage shown with a multi-meter?</p>
<p>how many watt is produced by this solar cell?</p>
<p>Probable a couple milli-watts if it powers the LED shown in the picture</p>
<p>Can applying TiO2 containing toothpaste instead of Sunscreen and Using red onion juice instead of Blue berry juice work?????</p>
The iodine peeled off the carbon layer when I tried to make the solar cell. Ist this normal ? <br>
<p>hello!</p><p>Very cool and interesting things you are <br>doing!</p><p>I would like to ask, what elements are the <br>most important for the iodine? Does it need to consist of a high percentage of <br>alcohol? </p><p>And the sunscreen could you maybe share the <br>same about the consistency of it! </p><p>And i think it would be really nice to know the amperage..<br>Thank you!</p>
<p>Is the liquid iodine just any general iodine that can be purchased from a store?</p>
I don't think it can be found in any store, the iodine I used was from an old first aid kit which consists of mostly alcohol. You could probably get that online.
<p>Hi, I tried to make the solar cell but things didnt really turn out as well as it should have. For your sunscreen what is the breakdown of chemicals in percentage? I bought sunscreen that has TiO2 and ZnO2 in it, not sure if the zinc oxide is affecting it. </p>
<p>Thanks for your reply.</p><p>Another question I have is the plastic pieces you used conductive? Your description says you used deli meat packaging, but the plastic in the picture seem to be thicker than deli meat packaging. </p><p>Also awesome project, I'm really excited to build this solar cell. Thanks for the ible!</p>
I was referring to the hard plastic tub that deli meat comes in, it's about as thick as the plastic that milk jugs are made of. I'm not sure if they sell them in that kind of packaging where you live, so I would like to apologise for any confusion. It doesn't need to be from a plastic deli tub just as long as it is clear, flexible, and sturdy. It does not need to be conductive because of the aluminum strips, In Silicon cells these are called fingers. When i made this I wanted to see if making it more like the industrial cells would Increase the power and as it turns out I was right. Thank you for commenting.
<p>Great instructable.<br>One question<br>You are using berries, how long will it last?</p>
<p>Thank you for your comment, i'm not entirely sure how long it will last, but I do know that if you were to put an epoxy sealant on the edges it would make the cell air tight preventing the decay of the anthosynin dye. Mine is still running strong after a few days, if that tell you anything. I hope I answered your question, please be sure to vote for me, thank you.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br>Blueberries are found plenty where I live, so I am thinking about making a nice array for myself.</p>
<p>sounds awesome.</p>
Hi, I am very interested in your project. Is it better to use aluminiumfoil or aluminium from a can ?<br>And where can i get the Iodine ?
<p>thank you for your comment. Aluminum foil, because an aluminum can isn't pure aluminum, when a can is made they add Al(OH)3 other wise known as Alum powder. The iodine that I got was from an old military first aid kit, but here is a link to a web site that sells the same thing. Please be sure to vote for me, thank you.</p>
<p>Could you do me a favor? Please hook up a 1k resitor (or 10k or something inbetween) and measure the voltage across it and the current flowing through it. This will give us a rough estimation how much power your cell produces.</p>
<p>I would love to to that, once I get a multimeter. I'm new to electronics, so I must ask, why do I need a resistor?</p>
<p>You need a resistor to apply a constant load to the solar cell. Most people measure the voltage of their solar DIY project without a load, but if there is no current flow the power generated is 0, no matter how high the voltage is. To understand why lets take a look a the formula to calculate power:</p><p>U (voltage) x I (current) = P (power)</p><p>If there is no current flow you have 0 current so</p><p>x (any voltage) x 0 = P &lt;=&gt;* 0 = P =&gt; no power generated.</p><p>And a sandard resistor has another huge benifit compared to any other load (lamps, LEDs, etc.): If you know the voltage agross the resistor and its value you can calculate the current flowing trough it with &quot;ohms law&quot;:</p><p>R (resistance) = U / I &lt;=&gt; I = U / R</p><p>Combined with the first formula the power can be calculated as follows:</p><p>P = U (measured) x U / R (calculation for current) = U&sup2; / R</p><p>Pretty simple, huh?</p><p>One thing to keep in mind is that the generated power will not only vary with the amount of sunlight but also with the current generated. This is why I reccomend you to try a 1k resistor first as it only drains 1mA @ 1V which results in 1mW power generated. 1mW doesn't sound like much, but it can be enough to run an atmega88 (the arduino chip) @ 1Mhz if the circuit surrounding it is designed properly. You may want to try out different resistor values to give us a rough estimation how much power we can expect. </p><p>*if you don't know allready '&lt;=&gt;' is the sign for transforming one equalation into an other, just like the = for the values inside the equalation itself.</p>
<p>wow, I will certainly use this as a reference when I do my test, thank you for this interesting lesson on calculating power, I hope I can get your vote. Thank you once again</p>
<p>(You allready got my vote a day ago ;) )</p>
<p>Oh, well thank you so much.</p>
<p>Very cool! Have you measured the output with a voltmeter or anything?</p>
<p>I don't have a multimeter, but if I had to guess it would be surround one volt because the led I hooked it up to runs on one volt.</p>
<p>It looks awesomely simple, thanks for sharing.</p>
<p>thank you.</p>

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