Picture of soldering gun
A soldering gun is a pistol-shaped soldering tool, named for their rough appearance to a firearm.
Why settle for an approximation when you can have a real soldering gun?! Bring this little baby to bear on your next PCB. Point, pull, and let the heater rip.

It's not so far fetched: A steady hand, a careful aim, an unsafe quantities of lead...soldering and firing a gun have an awful lot in common. Making your own is easy, all you need is an air pistol and a hand-held, battery powered soldering iron and you can make your own soldering gun.

Here's what I used to make mine:

  • hobby knife
  • wire strippers
  • screwdrivers
  • soldering iron
  • JB Weld (or very strong epoxy)
  • rotary cutting tool

Modified toy/prop pistols can be mistaken for real firearms, use common sense and leave this gadget at home.

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Step 1: Disassemble soldering gun

Picture of disassemble soldering gun
The soldering iron I used was the equivalent of a 15W soldering iron, battery powered by 4 AAA batteries, had one 3mm white LED near the tip. The package boasts: "the tip heats to 365°F (185°C) in about 7 seconds, and can reach a maximum temperature of 1050°F (565°C)".

I used a small Phillips screwdriver to open the plastic housing of the soldering iron and pry it apart. The circuit inside has a 51Ω resister, one small white LED and a socket for the heating element.

After sketching the circuit onto paper I desoldered the components and set them aside.

Step 2: Disassemble air pistol

Picture of disassemble air pistol
The model of airsoft pistol I used has a removable magazine which can hold about 30 small pellets. Start by removing this magazine and setting aside, this will be our battery compartment. This model of pistol also has a sliding action, sharply jolt the slide forward on the pistol frame which will cause the slide to separate off the frame guide rails. You should have 3 large component assemblies of your airsoft pistol.

Inside the slide are several smaller components which make up the firing pathway, each of these can be carefully removed which will allow you to feed electrical leads to the tip. You may need to use small screwdriver to pry apart the air pistol insides.

With our airsoft pistol and soldering iron disassembled we're ready to plan our the wiring schematic.

Step 3: Planning and wiring

Picture of planning and wiring
Referring to the sketch of the disassembled soldering iron I made earlier, I planned out how the wires would work inside the confined insides of the airsoft pistol.

The wiring will stay mostly the same as it was originally in the soldering iron, but with the addition of a second LED (to have one on each side of the slide) and a momentary switch to operate the soldering gun instead of the manufacturers' toggle switch.

Step 4: Wiring solder tip

Picture of wiring solder tip
With the slide disassembled you can plan out the route which your electric leads will take from the tip of the pistol to the handle. I had to make a few minor modifications to the firing array to get my leads installed, but it wasn't difficult. 

Using two long electrical leads feed the wires through the firing array, I enclosed the leads nearest to the soldering tip in heat-resistant tubing which was connected to the wires using heat-shrink tubing. The soldering socket from the soldering iron was attached and heat-shrink tubing was added to prevent any short circuits.

The wired were weaved through the firing array and the barrel was reassembled, leaving the two electrical leads trailing. Two small holes were drilled where red painted divots were located on the airsoft pistol. I installed two 3mm red LED's inside these openings and hot-glued them in place. The positive lead from the soldering tip was cut and soldered to the anode (positive) side of the two LED's. The negative lead was cut next and the 51Ω resistor was soldered to it, the other end of the resistor was soldered to the cathode (negative) of the LED's.
The negative wire will next be attached to a momentary switch behind the trigger.

Step 5: Trigger

Picture of trigger
Two electrical leads were soldered to a small momentary switch and protected with heat shrink tubing. I chose to use all black, thereby hiding the switch to the casual observer. After soldering the switch was installed using a strong epoxy, the switch leds were fed up behind the trigger into the gun, they emerge between the handle slides. One end is soldered to the negative lead from the soldering tip and resistor (see previous step).

Step 6: Milling magazine

Picture of milling magazine
I wanted my magazine to house my "ammo", which in this case was the batteries. Just like a real pistol I wanted the magazine to be removable and reloaded with fresh ammo when I was out. I opened the magazine casing an removed the feeder spring and small weigh located inside. 

Using a rotary tool with a large milling bit I carefully removed the pellet guideway, making sure to leave the plastic posts which protected the screws that hold the magazine together in tact. Make sure to wear goggle or a face mask as this part can get very messy, with removed plastic flying all over the place.

Once your magazine is gutted take the 4 AA batteries and fit them inside, you want the fit to be snug, but not to inhibit the magazine from closing properly. I added a small 3mm scrap piece of foam inside the magazine housing to hold my batteries in place and prevent them from knocking around.

Step 7: Magazine contacts

Picture of magazine contacts
I made contacts for the battery magazine. Using junk electronics that I salvaged from the Dollar Store I found a stiff metal plate which I hot glued at the bottom of the magazine, this connected the positive end from one column of batteries to the negative terminal of the other column of batteries, replicating the array of batteries found inside the store-bought soldering iron I purchased.

The leads that were exposed at the top of the magazine needed a way to make contact to the rest of the circuit inside the pistol, but could not be hard wired because I wanted the magazine to be removable. To solve this I used springs from junk electronic battery holders. After stretching the springs to create an elongated contact they were hot-glued in place, making the positive and negative ends of the battery array poking out th etop of the magazine, ready for contact with the circuit when inserted into the body of the gun.

Step 8: Completing the circuit

Picture of completing the circuit
The last step to this circuit is the contact plate for the battery leads to connect to, this will be located in the handle of the pistol. I epoxied two stiff pieces of metal to a piece of plastic with the bottom portion of the plastic acting as a contact plate and the leads for the contact plate protruding above the plastic.

The positive connection from the barrel and the negative connection from the trigger can now be soldered to this connection plate. 

The profile place can now be placed inside and above the handle of the pistol between the slide, the profile of the plastic piece will need to be carved down to fit. Do not glue in place yet! Next, install the modified battery magazine and align the contact plate to meet with the battery magazine springs. There will probably be some modification required to both the battery magazine and the contact plate to ensure a secure connection. Test your circuit before gluing in place!!

When you are satisfied that you have a solid connection with the plastic connection plate and battery magazing springs the plastic contact plate can be epoxied in place.

Step 9: Epoxy pistol action + close assembly

Picture of epoxy pistol action + close assembly
I wanted this soldering gun to have a working slide, but the wiring inside made this impossible. Instead, I used a strong epoxy to seize the slide action in place. After the epoxy had dried I carefully snapped the slide back on to the pistol body, careful to tuck any bunched wires back inside the gun assembly.

Make sure your soldering gun works correctly before epoxy sets, this is your last chance to make any final corrections to your circuit. After this, you may need to remake some of the circuitry of you have to pull it apart after the epoxy dries.

Step 10: Shoot some lead

Picture of shoot some lead
This soldering gun operates just like the one original one it's modified from I bought at the store. It heats up fast and can melt solder in under 10 seconds from a cold start. I've even used it for solder a few simple electronics projects so far!

While not very practical it's a fun twist to my regular soldering iron and sure gets people talking!

This idea modifies an already realistic pistol and makes it look even more menacing. This project, while fun, can easily be mistaken for a real firearm and get you in trouble. Have fun with this project, but be smart.
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jhawkins146 months ago
The US constitution guarantees my right to this. Time to make one.
7417414526 months ago

this is possible



agm882 years ago
Saw this in popular sci. And i thought of this before any one built it very cool though
why do you have a breadboard in the background if you dont solder it?
Is it a Barreta M92? Awesome Instructable BTW!
ultimut cat2 years ago
i need a soldering iron to make a soldering gun
ilpug2 years ago
Oh wow. Why did i never think of that?
edwin9942 years ago
KneXtreme2 years ago
Neet idea. Congrats on your 100th instructable!
pandyaketan2 years ago
Click my name to see my NO-SOLDER LED PROJECTS !!!

Hahahha yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DoctorDv2 years ago
I saw your project in the Popular Science magazine! Congratulations!

Dito, this is awesome he commented on my thing!!!!
AUG-5OM32 years ago
This is so cool. Too bad airsoft guns are illegal in my country :S
sab13453 years ago
thank you very very
Very cool indeed! This may be asking too much but I wonder if a slightly larger gun would allow you to equip it with a motorized spool of solder wire. Course that might mean a dual trigger model gun. One for the heat and one for the spool. Sounds like you'd need some sort of pirate type gun with dual barrels. Basically a cordless wire-feed soldering GUN, k, I'll stop talking...
mikeasaurus (author)  iminthebathroom3 years ago
I thought of making a second pistol which would dispense the soldering wire, thereby attacking any electronics project with pistols akimbo. We'll see...
That's awesome, and totally makes me think of the dual beretta's in Counterstrike. The sad thing is, your soldering gun would probably be more powerful :(
sweet, i see it has garnered a lot of deserved positive interest !
This is why I miss Instructables so much. :(
juliadee3 years ago
The project is silly but the video is damn sexy =^_^=
mikeasaurus (author)  juliadee3 years ago
aw, shucks!
Adam Manick3 years ago
Did you happen to get the idea of using that iron tip from my instructable?

Cool Instructable!
mikeasaurus (author)  Adam Manick3 years ago
Thanks for the complement!

As for the soldering iron tip: Nope, I got the idea after seeing the battery powered soldering iron when I was in Radio Shack. I actually only found out while writing this Instructable that you can buy just the soldering tip through RS's website.
Just a crazy coincidence!
Cool! I guess we think alike. Great hack!
ianbatty3 years ago
Looks like there is a mistake in the schematic.

I think the battery should connect *directly* to the solder tip, and the 51 ohm resistor is to limit current into the LEDs.

As it stands, the iron tip will get only about 0.1 amps of current, at virtually zero volts. Result? Virtually zero heating effect, with all the energy wasted in the resistor.

Comments, please.
mikeasaurus (author)  ianbatty3 years ago
Thanks for letting me know.
I took great care to keep the same wiring from the original soldering iron with this build, with the exception of adding another LED to the mix. I have updated Step 3 to reflect a new wiring schematic and a new picture of the original wiring from the soldering iron I used.

you are correct, there are some little details that may got overlooked and should be corrected. resistor is there for LED only (51-100 Ohm is ok for white LED because of their large forward voltage drop, for red LED should be 150-180 Ohm or LED. but then, duty cycle is low and it will probably still last). current limiting action of resistor would prevent tip getting hot and melting solder. also, if the tip was really wired as shown (after resistor), LED would go out ever time tip touches solder.
the battery in schematic and LED orientation don't agree either (long line on battery is positive and it should go towards 'trailing side' of the LEDs arrow. short line on battery symbol is negative and should go towards "line" on LED symbol).

btw nice instructable and cute video clip. i like the "pew pew" firing sound effect :-)
Eh Lie Us!3 years ago
Wow. This is great. I almost spit my cereal on my keyboard when I saw the video. Great, man. Create! Create!
mikeasaurus (author)  Eh Lie Us!3 years ago
Kryptonite3 years ago
Ha, it would just be perfect if you could pull the trigger and have the iron pop out the end!
mikeasaurus (author)  Kryptonite3 years ago
The first design iteration was just that, the slide action would have the soldering tip pop out. It proved too difficult to implement, so I went this route instead.
bullzebub3 years ago
why didnt you use AAs instead of AAAs?
and i think you should use rechargables and make a few spare magazines! :-D
love the idea though.
mikeasaurus (author)  bullzebub3 years ago
I used the same batteries that were used in the donor soldering iron, which were AAA. Also, AA are too wide to fit into the magazine clip.
...."Happy Days" is my favourite theme song....
Ow man... It really sucks that Airsoft guns like those are illegal over here... i really love the idea though.
Rumbo3 years ago
DANG IT!!! I JUST threw away that same exact airsoft pistol!!! It was broken so i threw it away... YESTERDAY! O_o
MrCafe3 years ago
I may have to try your mod using one of my old Nintendo pistols. Great work.
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