Step 6: Glue up the Blade

Glue and clamp the offcuts to the side of the blade to make it wide enough.
I used yellow waterbased "waterproof" glue. That needs a pretty tight fit. If you use epoxy your joint doesn't have to fit so well.
<p>I made some oars from using this DIY article. I used a jig saw with a new blade instead of a band saw for the blade and I shaped it all using a hand plane, spoke shave, and draw knife. The handle was easier to do with the spoke shave and draw knife. The 2x4s were ripped in half and then two 15 inch pieces were glued with polyurethane glue to the ends. The blades are about 15 in long and about 4 7/8 in wide. </p>
<p>Sanded with 220 grit. Spar Urethane goes on tomorrow. </p>
<p>From beginning to end with Home Improvement store studs. </p>
I would encourage you to place the oars so that the PULL from the rod. <br> This is the way they are used in the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean. There, a single thole pin and a grommet -or strop- are used to fix the oars. <br>The oar is always placed on the side of the motion of the boat, so that the grommet pulls from the thole pin. <br>Just try it. <br>
I have made several sets of oars over the years. A lot of people tend to use a 2x4 they have stuck away someplace or even get the lumber yard 2x4's, but it would be well worth the investment to ask the lumber yard to get you nice &quot;CLEAR&quot; Spruce boards. They will be a lot lighter. If you are going to be rowing any distance, the weight makes a big difference.
I used two eight foot cedar two by fours I found sitting in my rafters to whip up this pair of 7.5 foot rowing oars for an old 12 foot row boat I picked up for free. They still need a few more coats of poly and maybe some rope to pad the shafts from the oarlocks, but they look great. Thanks for the help Tim!
Pretty Cool. You could call them &quot;Two by Foars&quot; :-)
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Very informative instructions and I will be making a set of oars very soon.
And he doesn't point out that your oars will be MUCH nicer than commercial oars; they'll have a pattern you like, and they probably will be much lighter spruce t rather than hickory.
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holding the pencil against a square is such a smart idea! I'll use this trick for sure on projects! seems obvious now... thanks.
I have been working on a design to build my own small boat. This would be a nice project to follow that with. (Modifying it to suit myself of course.) Thank you for sharing.
To Mr. JohnMichael: If it is your first own design, please refer to the book of John Gardner "Wooden Boats" (Mystic Seaport, Connecticut) - or other classicals books from peoples that know-how-to : there is a lot to learn about and get good reasons to be proud of your job...and stay safe. Greetings from Belgium..
Thank you for tha advice. I think that is amoung the list of books I have read on the subject. I am leaning more towards the skin and frame method, possibly stich and glue. I want to keep the wieght down.
Sorry, but I find them Ugly : they look too short and the pal's not narrow enough for the sea . That's obviously not the best way to make goods and efficient "academics" oars. I am sure you are able to make them better with a quality wood and... a little more patience and application on the job.
aside from obviously breaking the "be nice" rule of commenting, i think your comment misses the point. Of course it's not the best way to make good an efficient oars. People have businesses that revolve around making good and efficient oars, they mass produce them, you can go buy them. But this instructable shows how to make good and efficient oars, by yourself, out of scrap wood, for free - and that's better than buying them for most people on this site. If you want to make an instructable with better woods to show how it's done, go right ahead - but don't assume that you share the same goals and criteria as this author.
They look ok for a first effort. I've made oars in my time, but you seem to have made awfully hard work of it!! There are simpler ways to make a (better) round profile and the blade. Go to a library and find a book on wooden boat craft.....
" this is called "R+D", which stands for "ripoff and duplicate"." hahaha, classic line.
I don't know whether to be disappointed or impressed with the lack of the obvious "Two by Foars" pun. Oh dear, just saw the url :)
Great work, some people forget that items like these are so easily made!
I wanted some nicer oars for my boat, Thanks!
Hello Tim, On the last step, I think you meant "These".

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Bio: Tim Anderson is the author of the "Heirloom Technology" column in Make Magazine. He is co-founder of www.zcorp.com, manufacturers of "3D Printer" output ... More »
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