How you use and acquire patterns will really depend on your personal preference. Some folks like using ready made patterns, and some like making their own!
In this lesson I'll show you some great sources for free and paid patterns, as well as how I make my own patterns. I'll also show you my favorite way to transfer patterns onto fabric. :D
P.S. I've attached all of the class embroidery patterns below for easy access!
I choose to make all my own patterns, but if drawing is not your thing, don't fret! Patterns are everywhere, honestly. In this step, I'll share some of my favorite sources for patterns. :D
I'll also share some additional sources for fonts and design elements, because I know that using pre-made items is easier sometimes!
Sources for Paid Patterns:
Sources for Free Patterns:
Paid Fonts + Design Elements
Transferring patterns is much easier than you think!
There are essentially two ways I transfer patterns to fabric: by pinning the pattern paper to the fabric and tracing or by placing the fabric in a hoop and using the hoop as a tracing frame. I'll go over both of these techniques in the next two steps.
Here's what you'll need to transfer a pattern:
First, lay your pattern down, with the ink facing up. Place your piece of fabric over the pattern and center the pattern as well as you can.
Now, you'll want to pin the fabric to the paper. Pin the right side, and then smooth the fabric away from the pin and to the left with your hand. Don't pull the fabric to the left, just make sure it's laying completely flat. Then you can put a pin in the right side.
Repeat with the top and bottom.
If you pull the fabric too tight, the paper will begin to bend. If this happens, remove the pins and try again.
Depending on the complexity of your embroidery, you may want to add more pins to keep the fabric from moving as you draw out the pattern.
Once the fabric and paper are pinned together, you'll transfer them to your lightbox and trace.
Use a light hand while tracing! You may also want to use your other hand to hold the fabric in place where you're tracing.
Here's the finished pattern transfer! As you can see, I used a much thicker pen this time. (The brand is Wrights)
Here's a comparison of the two transfer pens.
This is a great method to use if the lines in your embroidery pattern are very delicate, or if the pattern is super detailed. Because the fabric is not able to move at all, you'll have incredibly precise tracing!
First, insert your fabric into the hoop and make sure it's centered and tight. If you're using a window to trace, tape your paper pattern to the window in a spot that's a comfortable height. If you're using a lightbox or tablet, just lay the paper pattern on top of it.
Flip the hoop over and place the flat side of the fabric against the pattern on your lightbox.
Use a light hand and trace the pattern. Use your other hand to hold the hoop in place. If you're using a flat surface to trace, putting pressure on the hoop will keep the paper pattern in place.
Rotating is okay as long as you ensure the pattern and fabric stay lined up! I rotate constantly while tracing and inking my patterns because pulling the pen towards you is MUCH easier than pushing it away. You'll get smoother lines pulling the pen to you.
Once the pattern is copied, you're ready to start embroidering! It's totally fine to embroider with the hoop assembled this way, but you can also remove the fabric and rotate the hoop if it bothers you.
As you can see, I've used a very fine pen (Clover is the brand) to trace this pattern. It's hard to see in bright photos, but it's perfectly easy to see in good lighting in person. :)
I make all my own patterns the old school way - completely by hand. I am 100% useless when it comes to drawing and designing on a computer so I prefer to stick to what I know. :D
Making your own patterns is surprisingly easy and requires only basic equipment!
To illustrate this, I documented the making of the final pattern for the class. This pattern was pretty complicated because of all the individual elements and the fact that I wanted to do both print and cursive text. I would say it took around 8 hours to design this one, but most are much quicker!
What you'll need to make your own patterns:
And that's it! I really only use the scanner and printer for resizing and digitizing my patterns, so that's not something you'll need right from the beginning. You can definitely freehand your designs at first. :)
I create all my pattern drawings on standard printer paper because it's a great thickness and smoothness for this and very inexpensive. Printer paper is also quite translucent when held to light, which will allow you to easily trace designs.
Printer paper will also hold up to pinning the paper against fabric when transferring patterns.
Use Your Hoop or Rulers to Draw the Embroidery Design Area
If you're designing for a hoop, trace the inner hoop of whichever size hoop you're using. Otherwise, use your rulers to draw a box on the paper (for example: 4x6, 5x7, 8x10) that your design will need to fit into.
Focus on the Border First
If you're going to have a border on your hoop, add it first. This will allow you to avoid resizing all the other elements later if the border won't fit.
To add an easy border, trace the next hoop size down into the center of your original hoop's circle. For example, if I'm using an 8 inch hoop for my pattern design, I could trace the inner hoop of a 6 or 7 inch hoop inside it for a perfectly sized border template.
You also aren't limited to a circular border - experiment with adding borders on the left and right only, or maybe just at the bottom of the design. Use straight rulers to make sure your borders are even.
Draw Individual Elements Separately
You don't have to draw everything at once, and it does not have to be perfect in every way. I like to draw a rough sketch of the design to get an idea about how things should be sized. Then I individually draw the elements: the text, the illustrations, any borders.
Use your rulers to draw little boxes or lines to allow you to make your drawings and text straight and in the right scale.
Use a Lightbox to Get Your Elements in the Right Place
Once you've got all the individual elements looking good, you can start to figure out where to put them using the lightbox. This is the easiest way to figure out how you want the final elements laid out without lots of tracing.
If you have a particular element you really like, or you want to use a base for centering everything else, trace that part of the pattern onto a clean white sheet of paper. Trace the size hoop you're working with after, centering the initial design as needed.
Then you can begin placing the rest of the elements and tracing them with pencil as you finalize the layout.
Once that's all done, trace over the pencil with regular or felt tipped black pen and erase the pencil marks.
Trace a Final Pattern and Then Scan
After I've gone through all the work of making a pattern, I like to center the pattern on a new piece of printer paper and trace one more time. This gives me a much nicer looking pattern since the lines will be cleaner.
After that, I like to scan my pattern. I use Image Capture on my Macbook for scanning.
I scan at 600 dpi and in black and white. I choose to save my scans as .jpeg files, but you could do a .pdf file instead.
Make sure that the WHOLE page is being scanned, not just the part of the page with the image. Scanning and storing your pattern at the 8.5x11 inch size will ensure your pattern is always the right size if you scale it at 100% and print.
Share a photo of your finished project with the class!
Nice work! You've completed the class project