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building the poor-mans mini tesla coil ( slayer exciter)
New life to dead Ni-Cad and alkiline batteries
Super Simple ignition coil drivers
Thanks a lot! I'll surely go ahead and try them.
How Electricity & Electronics Work: All you need to know guide to getting started
Easy SSTC, Slayer Exciter On Steroids!
I have troubleshooting tips on the last few steps. If those do not work then ask again. Good luck.
What are the measures of the coil? and what is the thickness of the copper wire around it? I would also like to know what you used to the top. Thank you very much for the tutorial!
I've built the tesla coil, but the sparks are too short. What can I do to increase them?
Thanks, mines a cheapie that doesnt unscrew but same issue - i just twisted the spring a little bit and presto - solid light...fixed for now.
Bro can u just tell me about all the things used in this project including input voltageAnd a circuit diagram of arrangement of all things
optimize your Samsung Intercept
HiDid u ever try plasma ignition?
Thx for responding. I'll try to optimize it.
This circuit took me weeks to perfect. It's hard to tune due to the chaotic nature of its operation. Take a look at my last few steps for troubleshooting.
Hi Max.I have been fighting with that project for over 30h. My slayer exciter works, however not as good as yours does. I have filmed it to show it to my friend: My stuff:-12V DC power supply-10kOhm resistor-3x100nF ceramic capacitor in parallel-MJE3055T transistor -940 turns of 0.32mm thick wire-aaaaaand... I tried 4 or 3 turns of 1mm thick wire, 3 turns of 1.29mm thick but there I can't see any change,When I put 5kOhm insted of 10kOhm it is barely better. I have tried changing the top load (from 100mm diameter styrofoam sphere coated aluminum foil to one hard drive disc) but it doesn't work. I decided to take a look at primary coil. I tried to put it higher or lower on the secondary. Put it closer and further. Put the turns close and far of each other BUT it doesn't work.Here are some photos:http://imgur.com/a/PcJXvCan it be that thin wire on the beginning that make the efficiency so poor? On the primary there's also a connection, but I checked it and it doesn't drop the voltage of the battery that I tested.Pleace help me.
The transistor driver is probably more robust, I'm going to make one, thanks ;)
You can also alternatively try making your own MOSFET buffer driver with a couple of transistors. Use 2 (a NPN and PNP) transistors in the emitter follower configuration with the base's connected together and the emitters connected together. The emitters go to the MOSFET gate, and the base is fed from the feedback pin. Due to the nature of PNP and NPN transistors, protection diodes are not critically necessary, as the PN junctions will do the trick. The transistors are acting as emitter followers, so the NPN collector is connected to Vcc and the collector of the PNP is connected to ground.
It's hard to say, I killed all my DS0026's working with this circuit, too. And I have no plan to buy them. (I only used that chip because I had them in my antique junk bins.) Look up the datasheet and have a glance at the Absolute Maximum Ratings for your device, it will list all the things that, if you exceed, will result in the magic smoke.
Hi Max,I use separate power supply to power the mosfet driver (I'm French and I haven't found the DS0026 for sale in Europe so I use a TC426). When I powered the mosfet driver on 12V the current in the ic was 10 to 20mA. After that I increased gradually the power in the circuit (mosfet+primary coil). At approximately 18V the current has increased to the limiting value of my power supply (3.1A) wisch has produced a strange humming. The current in my ic was at 310mA so I turned off the power supply. My mosfet (irfp460) is not dead, because it switches on when I touch the gate. Unfortunately, my TC426 is now constantly very hot (and I measured 200mA on vdd) so I think it burned but I don't know why (I use 1n4148 diodes but now I don't know if they work)... I still have another TC426 and an ICL7667 but I am afraid about burning them :/My power supply is an ELC AL936N. Any suggestions?thank you in advance :)
Hi there, thanks for the reply (sorry I didn't see it until recently because it didn't appear in my inbox for some reason!) this really helps me with my tesla coil adventures. I've already started making some improvements based on your advice I very much appreciate your detailed response. I also have another question which I posted on your youtube video "Weekend Projects: How to Make a Powerful Slayer Exciter Tesla Coil" via yt account "ZBCuber", regarding a weird occurrence in another slayer exciter I made which is baffling me.
Thanks for this guide, this was exactly the problem i had and your solution worked for me, can't believe it was such a simple fix to do!
Ah of course, your hint takes me back to physics class (Root Mean Square), won't need google for that one (this time haha). RMS didn't even occur to me lol.
mistakes in link - reposted
Something is making both links the same, sorry!here's the correct STP34NM60N link
I was thinking these look pretty good IPW90R1K2C3 but not sure, is pretty cheap and is rated at 900V with same resistance as the FDP33N25 was thinking could parallel a couple of them perhaps?
Cool thanks for that, so do you reckon either of those two would do the job? I certainly won't hold you to it mate, just with you're experience and knowledge, you're opinion matters in the choice i make (you've already steered me away from some bad choices!) and hopefully when i get it working these posts will help someone else get some home-made lightning happening, and of course i'll post some pics :)I also just found this one, which is a few bucks cheaper and looks similar in spec IPP60R099C6 is TO-220 but still looks like the specs are good (to me anyway) would no doubt need big heatsink and fan, probably run two in parallel of whatever i use too (I may purchase some of each if you reckon they look ok, in case i get some go bang - I'm under no illusion of this being straight forward so i won't be getting upset if they do, hopefully learn something so is all good)Again, thankyou for your help!
Hey Max,Finally getting round to this circuit - brute power supply it is! those other ones I've been messing with are fine for smaller normal circuits but the slayer circuit has let smoke out of four psu circuits now, interestingly, the old workhorse psu i originally used is still cruising along at 25VDC but i'm moving on. I built full bridge rectifier and will use that on the hi voltage side, only problem(?) is I have 73VDC at the output. I have IRF540N MOSFETs, do you think these will be ok? I think they're ok for 100V but not sure about the driver chip getting excess feedback voltage given that i have 73VDC feeding it. Should i increase the value of R3 or will that still be ok do you think?Just re-watched your video of this thing, OMG the sound it makes when the interrupter is added to it is just awesome! Sounds like such a beast, I can't wait to get this going :)
Cool, I'll look into some of those, cheers for that. Will they handle 73VDC in your opinion? Are there any bigger or better ones you know of that would suit given the extra volts? If it means spending a little bit extra, and using extras in parallel so it doesn't go pop i'm thinking it's probably worth it, wife always gets upset with me when circuits explode or make flames on the kitchen bench, and there's been a couple lately :)Yeah definitely wasn't planning on doing that, got a separate psu for the 12v side, I think is good for 2A, (not that it'll need that much but is nice little DC brick power pack so should be ok for the low side, wired it into my big power supply so is able to be one wall plug)Do you think 73VDC is too much? The transformer is supposed to be 50V but i suspect its rating might be at 230V (and here it can be anywhere from 230VAC-250VAC at the wall and i have 250V at this place). I lived at place where it was 225V a few years back, just depends on the area. but i'm guessing (without doing the calculations) thats where the extra is coming from, the reason i bought that one was because it was big 3A or 6A if you use both outputs in parallel and 50V! (and on special) lol turns out I got a bonus model i guess haha :) now left wondering if it's too much.I was gonna test the high voltage side on my trusty old 25VDC psu first before throwing the other one at it just in case anything goes wrong anyway just to be safe and to not blow it up :) so if all else fails i'll still be able to run it, just not at it's full potential
Hey Max,Finally getting round to this circuit - brute power supply it is! those other ones I've been messing with are fine for smaller normal circuits but this circuit has let smoke out of four psu circuits now so i'm moving on. I built full bridge rectifier and will use that on the hi voltage side, only problem(?) is I have 73VDC at the output. I have IRF540N MOSFETs, do you think these will be ok? I think they're ok for 100V but not sure about the driver chip getting excess feedback voltage given that i have 73VDC feeding it. Should i increase the value of R3 or will that still be ok do you think?Just re-watched your video of this thing, OMG the sound it makes when the interrupter is added to it is just awesome! Sounds like such a beast, I can't wait to get this going :)
Thank you so much! My flashlight was randomly working regardless of power source. Followed your guide, used a pair of hemostats, it took only two minutes. Total success, only if every fix could be this easy and stress free ? Thank you for your help!
I couldn't find the DS0026 FET Driver for the circuit. Could you suggest some other equivalent FET Driver that would prpbably work for the circuit.
I tried it and it worked perfectly. my mosfet is also strangely cold, works a bit over ambient temps(with a heat sink).I've used an arduino to provide musical tones to Q2(replaced with tip41c).
ٍEasy way to make it musical, same schematic but instead of using a triple 5 modulator, you can put any musical source, speakers output with an amplifier would work fine.I used an Arduino and loaded up some RTTL musical tones on it, then wired the output pin to the transistor (Q2). it worked like a charm.
how is it that you ain't feel a shock? how big does my resistance need to be, at 18 volt,
how is it that you ain't feel a shock? how big does my resistance need to be, at 18 volt. Ohh... and I heard that I should use lots of turns for the best effect, but what's the diameter and the lengt of your pipe?
how is it that you ain't feel a shock? how big does my resistance need to be, at 18 volt.
which of the circuit will be more efficient. I am currently driving EHT using 12V DC & 3055HV. But it seems to be less efficient. Please tell guide me.
great dude... very informative
Thanks a lot its work. ı use my 12 volt power supply to power circuit and use 30v 2A (ı will get a 50-100 volt transformer) supply to power primer coil it work it can sparkin but cant sparking by it self ı must to bring my hand close to for sparking . ı think ıt cause of the seconder coil its too long (about 1 meter or long) ı think ıt loose some power here . and ı have a problem ı cant find why first time my circuit works well but when ı run it again the circit not worked when decrease the 12V to 7V it worked again but it dont work the 12 wolt again ı control all the connections and no think is changed. and if ı put the 555timer circuit it will sparking more?
1.20 mmlik kalın tel gibi duruyo
which transistor work good for totem pole?and ı have a C2M0160120 mosfet can ı use them? ı think they work good.
is totem pole work same with the ds0026? and when ım using totem pole ı must to change something incircuit or all things are same? (sorry for my bad engladn :P)
can i use pc power supply those thing's deliver a lot of amps ;)
Primer sargı bakır tel çapı kaç mm
Hey max....i have build the same following the steps u gave here but problem causing with me is the radiation....so can u plz tell me how can i overcome with it
fix UltraFire torch flickering/mode jumping
Thanks for explaining.
I just discovered that it was galvanized steel and that's why it seemed to char. However, the power source was 4 9-volts in a series and it did melt aluminum.
I am confused. I just remembered a time I was working with 36 volt electricity and it was melting aluminum and charring steel. How does this not ruin the metal? Also, how could I stop electricity from doing this?
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