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I wouldn't get hung up too much on getting the exact brand. Many glues work fine on unglazed ceramics - check their labels. Personally I'd try silicone sealant (test a batch to be sure it sticks OK, though - and only on dry ceramics) because I've already got it around in caulking-sized cylinder-tubes. (It's often used as the SOLE structural adhesive holding the glass for aquaria together, and that represents very large forces.) What the author is using looks like a UK version of good-ole "Duco cement," aka "vinyl cement," aka many other brand names.
You missed the point. This guide shows you the virtually-exact CUT line, and not just "a straight line" that inevitably is, say, "...4-11/16" plus a little bit AWAY from that blade, and...oh, dangit, I wanted to be on the OTHER side of my pencil-line...and wait a minute, how thick is my blade?..." Personally I rely on a simpler short-term-use "shooter board" (shows where the cut line will be, like only one side of this guide) but there are times when having this doubly-guided precision would be nice.
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