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A few remotes toggle a few bits of data every time you push a button. So if in the first push it sends 01110110 and it toggles the last 2 bits on every push, in the next button press it will send 01110101 and again 01110110 for pushing that same button again. So toggle bit mask is used to just check for those bits by making you press the same button multiple times. That is nothing to worry about if no toggle mask is found.It has been a long time since I used LIRC last and I might be wrong, but as far as I can remember, it takes only valid button names during irrecord. Your button names seem to be non-valid as valid ones I used were in all CAPS. You can generate a list of all valid buttons using(given in step-9):irrecord --list-namespace
The circuit could be same as Sword_xx's but components could be different. Some IR LEDs throw light in all directions (like a light bulb) so you can aim a bit off target and it would still wor,k but don't work for long distance. Another kind has a focused beam and you have to aim it at the receiver to work, but since all light is concentrated in one direction, it will work from farther away.There could be other reasons as well such as transmitting power, ambient IR light, receiver sensitivity etc. If you want to increase distance, replace the IR LED with one that has a better specs or use multiple IR LEDs.
For scheduling tasks, you should use cron to run the IR code. You can start off from here:https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/linux/usage/cron.md
Customizable Work Bench
I think one of the reasons google glasses failed is because the marketed the coolness of the device instead of focusing on the practical applications. It's great that you made something similar that solves an engineer's everyday problem.
Seems like a lot of fun. Would go crazy if I had something like this as a kid.
That's pretty sad. For now, they say they have a paid version: https://edu.codebender.cc/Hope it keeps going.
That's so cool. You can also have the magnetic joints to form connections so the wire doesn't have to be manually connected each time.By the way, is it me or the tap danced tune in the beginning sound a bit like the star wars imperial march?
Such a trippy table. I love the diffused effect of LEDs shining on the rings, which will probably force a person to gravitate towards the table to see the source of the light, and see infinity instead. Really love the idea!c
Arduino is the best option for getting into embedded electronics and Raspberry Pi is the best for getting started with basic computer programming. Arduino has inspired a lot of people out there to make stuff and allows begginers to make awesome projects - without breaking the bank.Arduino doesn't straight away work with chromebooks. You'll need to take a slightly complex path(https://www.sparkfun.com/news/1803) and I don't suggest it for beginners.Since you have Mac, Arduino software is available for it and I suggest to go with that (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software)
That link is already dead in 18 days after posting...This is an 8 year old post and it is already out there by now. The YouTube channel SmarterEveryDay posted a video of a gravity light:
If this is one of the first PCB you've designed, I'm looking forward to what you design next. Beautiful project. Pretty well planned and executed.
Looks very beautiful
There are 2 versions of Python (2 and 3) on Raspi. Try with both. Will probably work with one of them.
Looks just like the movie. Those backwards legs in take-2 also look very real even without the gown. Would love to see a video of them with the complete makeup...
A single point of hold can allow the blade to wobble, acting a bit as a fulcrum. Two magnetic points can ensure the length of blade between them will always be straight, as in the case of normal jigs which also have 2 slots to hold the blade.If you're getting perfect cuts with just one, then two might be overkill(except for a perfectionist)...
Nice trick. You can use a wider wooden block and attach 2 magnets to it. With 2 attachment points, it will completely remove any wobble at all...
This looks very realistic. Looks just like the one in the movies.
That is a great find. Using those ready-made boards certainly saves a lot of time and trouble in putting together the circuit, especially for beginners.
I thought the same thing! But diving in, it turned out to be so much cooler...
Cardboard Kitchen Cupboard Organizer
Built-in Shelves Between the Studs
That's great insight. I agree with you that it's important to make profit to keep it self-sustainined.
Pretty cool!You mention that fabric is better. The downside is you can't be sure what print you will be able to find. There is a way around it:Take a plain non-printed fabric, print any comic of your choosing on an iron-on sheet, iron it onto the fabric. Tada! You get the benefits of fabric with comic of your choice :)
Read up on RC circuits. They just use a capacitor and resistors. You won't get fade to on, but you can get a slow fade out with the simplest RC circuits.
These could give you some ideas:https://www.instructables.com/id/Things-to-do-with-...https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Makin-of-a-Cas...Search around and I'm sure you'll find tons more uses of old CPU cases.
The only inbuilt wireless technologies in your typical smartphones are Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. A wireless doorbell will probably use RF(Radio Frequency). So there cannot be a direct control. You can use an Arduino to control the wireless switch and connect your phone to the Arduino using Bluetooth or Wi-Fi to send commands.So you phone controls the arduino which in turn controls the wireless switch which in turn controls the wireless dorrbell...
Check if the connections are proper. Could be a fluctuating voltage level due to a loose connection. Also try covering the receiver to see if the random values stop(could be another source in the room).
As you mentioned, you need 7W to light up a meter. So assuming you are using 30 LEDs per meter strip, each LED is consuming about 20mA(which is perfect!). This is important as you will need to know how many LEDs you can light up safely.To pull power for it, you mention you are considering soldering to USB's power terminals. You will be unable to use that USB port as a majority of the current will be going to the strip instead of the peripheral connected to USB. You'll be able to pull 500mA from it, but might be limited to only 100mA depending on your laptop(http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/549...) Also, you'll need a buck-booster as Yonatan24 mentionedConnecting to the laptop charger port, is a better option if it provides 12V. Light will only glow when charger is connecte...see more »As you mentioned, you need 7W to light up a meter. So assuming you are using 30 LEDs per meter strip, each LED is consuming about 20mA(which is perfect!). This is important as you will need to know how many LEDs you can light up safely.To pull power for it, you mention you are considering soldering to USB's power terminals. You will be unable to use that USB port as a majority of the current will be going to the strip instead of the peripheral connected to USB. You'll be able to pull 500mA from it, but might be limited to only 100mA depending on your laptop(http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/549...) Also, you'll need a buck-booster as Yonatan24 mentionedConnecting to the laptop charger port, is a better option if it provides 12V. Light will only glow when charger is connected, but chances of anything going wrong with motherboard are greatly reduced.
It will be very difficult to remove a black background and make it white. The edges will have a slight gradient from black to the object color(off-white in your case) and removing the gradient will create very sharp edges and keeping it over a white background will cause blackness at the edges.You can use a black background by itself and it looks very good. A very good instructable on using black backgrounds: https://www.instructables.com/id/Photograph-a-Black...Whitish or transparent objects are always a bit tough to make visible, but it is certainly possible. You just need to play with the masking a bit. Shadows also play a very important role in bringing out the shape of a whitish object as you can see in this image, the breadboard is the same color as background but is visible due t...see more »It will be very difficult to remove a black background and make it white. The edges will have a slight gradient from black to the object color(off-white in your case) and removing the gradient will create very sharp edges and keeping it over a white background will cause blackness at the edges.You can use a black background by itself and it looks very good. A very good instructable on using black backgrounds: https://www.instructables.com/id/Photograph-a-Black...Whitish or transparent objects are always a bit tough to make visible, but it is certainly possible. You just need to play with the masking a bit. Shadows also play a very important role in bringing out the shape of a whitish object as you can see in this image, the breadboard is the same color as background but is visible due to the shadows: https://cdn.instructables.com/FUP/MNJI/HTEUJO6Y/FU...You can even have the shadow fall towards the camera to make it even more apparent, even though I warned not to bring shadow to front in step-4...
In the video, he does mention the handle broke into 3 pieces while sanding. So the fragility of the handle is quite apparent.
Hard does it hit? I'm tempted to just stand in front with a gaping mouth(and some eye protection). Very cool build!
Cool robot! Any inspiration from August Kekulé who discovered the Benzene structure in a dream of a snake eating its own tail and then whirling round and round?
Kiteman's link gives an estimate of £1000 which google says is $1313 once they launch on Kickstarter. I couldn't find any video either. It might be a few months before they launch on kickstarter and many more before they finish and ship it out.
Well, the cheapest glowforge is $2,395 and Vanillabox is about $1,313. The K40 is about $300. No brainer or not, a lot of people end up buying it and getting trapped wasting money and time trying to make make it work.
Very cool fat bike. Instead of looking at the drawbacks of using a car tire like less maneuverability, let's look at the benefits: no stand needed to keep it straight. :)What's the distance between your rear tire and the Sturmey-Archer hub? In the pics it almost looks like they are touching.
Your image will become completely white if you take the rightmost triangle all the way to the left, as you mentioned. The trick is to find the sweet spot in-between where the surrounding area of your object is white. Then you can clean the rest of the things with a white brush. Usually, I've found that sweet spot to be on the peaks or troughs of the graph which is above the triangles.
Sweet! The pics look great. Those heatsinks look so much at home on the board. Is it for overclocking the pi? You should definitely make an instructable for it...
Easiest way I see is to make an arduino sketch that sends serial data back to PC over USB. Then write a program in processing, java, C#( or any language that can read data from serial port and can connect to mySQL), which then reads the serial data and enters it into your mySQL database.
I haven't used NRF24L01 but from what I gathered from a quick google, they use the same frequencies but have different physical layer implementation. The ESP8266 has all the functionality to connect to wifi but NRF24L01 doesn't. So there might not be a way to have them talk to each other. You can certainly make one NRF24L01 talk to another NRF24L01.
The most affordable laser cutting to meet your requirement is the chinese K40 laser cutter series. It is waaaay cheaper than what you get for most laser cutter.But no one will ever suggest going for it because you get what you pay for. It is mostly junk requiring huge amount of effort, knowledge and money to get it working. You're better off buying the ones Kiteman suggested. I liked vanillaforge for to-the-point design and features and low price point.
All the best Mario. May the world bow at your feet... ;P
All the nest Mario. May the world bow at your feet... ;P
I felt it easier to explain where I went wrong in the past, than explaining exactly what to do(since I wasn't sure what I do is perfectly right). That way everyone has a lot of freedom to experiment and try out different things than following the exact steps mentioned.
Thanks! As you stated, WHAT to do and HOW to do it are extremely important for every instructable. Also WHY to do it is at times needed and that's why there's a whole step-1 for it.
Thank you. I learned a lot from the inputs people gave in the comments and wanted to put it together for others as well. It's amazing how sharing information in the community benefits everyone.
Nice setup. I'm planning on making something similar to hold my tools and your instructable gave me a lot of ideas. I love how you transition from 3D to the actual footage in your video.
Thank you Fathomlis!
Thanks! Hope this helps you out into getting started into getting better pics.
I'm not into teaching but on the few occasions I've had to teach, I mostly did a pretty bad job. I'll stick with making instructables for now :)
I was searching around on forums how people get such great white BG photographs. Everyone pretty much followed the same steps. Also, everyone with some experience also employs few tricks to make their objects pop out. That's what I tried collecting and bringing into a single instructable, along with a few of mine. In fact, there's a complete step-13 for tips from comments. Got any that I've skipped?
Woah. Near trick! You've got quite some patience :)
That's exactly what I'm doing but it will be pretty difficult to pull off accurately by using a continuous rotation servo, as beside the rotation speed, there will an acceleration and deceleration time component involved. It will be constant if you are flipping multiple flaps and it reaches its max speed, but for flipping 1 or 2 flaps, it will pose some complexity.A better option is to create a feedback loop similar to a servo's. To get 360 degree feedback, you can implement a diametrically magnetized magnet with sensor as shown in this and this instructables. But that's over-complicating things a bit :)
Firstly, awesome project and really beautiful design JON-A-TRON. Love your version of these classy devices.I made a split flap for a client more than 2 years back which had positional feedback. So you just entered the speed and flap number to go to in terminal, and it'll stop at that very flap. The client needed around 500 units and the total cost went very high so unfortunately it didn't work out.In this video, we were playing a game with the prototype. Another guy would call out a flap number(no audio) which I'll enter in terminal and the exact flap number would come up.Last month, I started working on a twitter wall with these but to accommodate around 60 characters per box, I needed a bigger unit and so sat down to redesign it. Also it needed to be very modular and utilize laser cut...see more »Firstly, awesome project and really beautiful design JON-A-TRON. Love your version of these classy devices.I made a split flap for a client more than 2 years back which had positional feedback. So you just entered the speed and flap number to go to in terminal, and it'll stop at that very flap. The client needed around 500 units and the total cost went very high so unfortunately it didn't work out.In this video, we were playing a game with the prototype. Another guy would call out a flap number(no audio) which I'll enter in terminal and the exact flap number would come up.Last month, I started working on a twitter wall with these but to accommodate around 60 characters per box, I needed a bigger unit and so sat down to redesign it. Also it needed to be very modular and utilize laser cutting for most parts, if not all. Now just need someone to fund it. XDHere's an unfinished version of the new design: So was curious to see this instructable and very surprised to see joshberry's suggestion for twitter wall here...
Thank you! Since we originally needed to make an array of these to form different images instead of words, we had to design the bezel as thin as possible.Yep, I used a stepper motor to precisely rotate the flaps and used a line detector to detect a thin black line on the gears for feedback. The accuracy I got far exceeded my expectations.If you haven't already seen, check out this guy's blog who has posted extensive information on split-flaps: http://unknowndomain.co.uk/Also, cannot help not sharing my favorite split-flap installation:
What you say is true. So that's why I asked if it's from a pointer and added a disclaimer that I can't say for sure. If the designer didn't skimp on the diode(I think I see it just below the button), no harm will come.Even in worst case scenario, instead of 10 unused diodes lying around, he'll have 9 useful working ones. :)
Did you take it out of a laser pointer? If so, it should be clearly marked somewhere on the case how to insert battery and you can make the same connection.If you bought these separately, then my best guess is the spring should connect to the flat negative side of the battery. The inside body of the pointer is conductive and that's how the other side of the battery(positive by my guess) connects to the circuit. So I think the positive will be connected to the metal part of the threaded front portion.This is all what I can guess from these very blurry photos, and if you decide to try it out, you do so at your own risk.
You should start with a few tutorials on LEDs. Plenty of them if you google it. Basically, you want to pass the required current(most commonly 20mA) to each by putting an appropriate resistor(calculated using ohm's law V=IR) to each LED and connecting to power source.Or else go with xmas lights as Toga_Dan suggested. That's a painless and foolproof method.
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